RCGF Engines
08-17-2011, 01:59 PM
#5452
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RE: RCGF Engines
Got some more run time in today. This little engine just blows me away. Had to replace the fish scale, found to be inaccurate. 18x8 @ 7000+ rpm's and 14lbs of thrust. The plane only weight's 16.5
SWEEEEEET!
SWEEEEEET!
08-18-2011, 05:06 AM
#5453
RE: RCGF Engines
Rcg 20 beam mount 16 3 8 graupner prop 7400 rpm and 11.6 lbs thrust,
Had extended my throttle arm and adjusted my servo arm position to help with the throttle curve (huge difference) so even with full end points on the radio I was only 95 % thottle open but this does not mean much, the 16 3 8 graupner is to much for this engine.
Remarkably with the big prop and having more control over the idle with the trim button the engine would idle at 1400 rpm! ThoughI dont think I would be comfortable leaving it thatlow.
This is not totally bad news for me though as the reason im trying 3 blade props is a ground clearance issue with a skybolt kit im building with this engine, will try a grapner 15 3 8 when I get one.
Had extended my throttle arm and adjusted my servo arm position to help with the throttle curve (huge difference) so even with full end points on the radio I was only 95 % thottle open but this does not mean much, the 16 3 8 graupner is to much for this engine.
Remarkably with the big prop and having more control over the idle with the trim button the engine would idle at 1400 rpm! ThoughI dont think I would be comfortable leaving it thatlow.
This is not totally bad news for me though as the reason im trying 3 blade props is a ground clearance issue with a skybolt kit im building with this engine, will try a grapner 15 3 8 when I get one.
08-18-2011, 11:52 AM
#5454
My Feedback: (1)
RE: RCGF Engines
I discovered that a 6mm bolt would require drilling the spinner hole out. I do not feel it has enough room so I need to use 5mm bolt. Because I have not been able to find a 5mmx.8x110 I decided to make my own. I used a 90mm and a 25mm bolt and sodered them together to get the proper length. I taped a section of brass tubing screwed the bolt in from each end then sodered them. Because the bolt is used to only hold on the cone I think it will be strong enough. Any ideas out there?
Have a good day, P51Tom
Have a good day, P51Tom
08-18-2011, 12:33 PM
#5455
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RE: RCGF Engines
P51tom
follow this link to Mcmaster Car they have what you are looking for. http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=dodezw.
Gregg
follow this link to Mcmaster Car they have what you are looking for. http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=dodezw.
Gregg
08-19-2011, 06:24 AM
#5456
My Feedback: (1)
RE: RCGF Engines
Thank you Greg, I put my order in today. I bought this 45cc engine from BP Hobbies. I have 7 RCGF Engines and I am very happy with them. My P51 is three years old and I am replacing the ST 3250 with the 45cc. I love the way it fits in this plane. I will be buying 3 more 45cc rear carb in the near future.
Have a good day, P51Tom
Have a good day, P51Tom
08-19-2011, 06:36 AM
#5457
My Feedback: (1)
RE: RCGF Engines
I will be running my RCGF 45cc in my TFGS P51 soon and need to make a decision on the prop size. The plane has been flown over the past few years with a 18x10 Zinger on a ST3250 engine. I am planning on using a 20x8 Zinger on the 45cc. Is this the correct prop to break in the engine or should I use a 20x10?
Have good day, P51Tom
Have good day, P51Tom
08-22-2011, 07:15 AM
#5459
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RE: RCGF Engines
My rcgf 26 runs better at about 5/8 to 3/4 throttle than it does at WOT. I moved the timing to retard about 1/8". I don't have a wheel and probably don't know how to use one any ways. I just move the hall sensor a small amount at a time then start the engine and see how that works. I made a mark on the engine so I would know where the starting point was. It did not run well by advancing the timing. Any suggestions on the running better if it is not WOT?
08-22-2011, 07:29 AM
#5460
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RE: RCGF Engines
ORIGINAL: goirish
My rcgf 26 runs better at about 5/8 to 3/4 throttle than it does at WOT. I moved the timing to retard about 1/8''. I don't have a wheel and probably don't know how to use one any ways. I just move the hall sensor a small amount at a time then start the engine and see how that works. I made a mark on the engine so I would know where the starting point was. It did not run well by advancing the timing. Any suggestions on the running better if it is not WOT?
My rcgf 26 runs better at about 5/8 to 3/4 throttle than it does at WOT. I moved the timing to retard about 1/8''. I don't have a wheel and probably don't know how to use one any ways. I just move the hall sensor a small amount at a time then start the engine and see how that works. I made a mark on the engine so I would know where the starting point was. It did not run well by advancing the timing. Any suggestions on the running better if it is not WOT?
08-22-2011, 08:47 AM
#5461
RE: RCGF Engines
Here is a nice degree wheel I made to give to people.
But, from what you describe, it sounds like you either have the high needle set too lean, or a fuel flow problem like a kinked fuel line or a clogged filter. If you can't make the engine too rich, and four stroke at the high end with the high speed needle, then it is probably a fuel flow supply problem.
It is also possible that your top end is too rich. Hard for us to tell without being able to hear it. Try richening the top end, if that makes it worse, then try leaning it. Do no more than 1/8 turns at a time, then when you get close to the correct setting, no more than screwdriver blade width movements.
AV8TOR
But, from what you describe, it sounds like you either have the high needle set too lean, or a fuel flow problem like a kinked fuel line or a clogged filter. If you can't make the engine too rich, and four stroke at the high end with the high speed needle, then it is probably a fuel flow supply problem.
It is also possible that your top end is too rich. Hard for us to tell without being able to hear it. Try richening the top end, if that makes it worse, then try leaning it. Do no more than 1/8 turns at a time, then when you get close to the correct setting, no more than screwdriver blade width movements.
AV8TOR
08-22-2011, 09:20 AM
#5462
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RE: RCGF Engines
Gorish
Usually the stock timing is good. 28-30 degrees. The only time i tell a customer to advance the timing is if they live at high altitudes.
Sounds like Its starving for fuel at the high end.
Try richening the low end. The engine gets fuel from both needles at full throtle.
If the needles are out nore than two turns you have an air leak.
Check for crimped fuel lines.
Is there dirt in the inlet screen?
is the engine in a cowl?
is there a hole in the firewall at the carb?
What prop are you using?
Usually the stock timing is good. 28-30 degrees. The only time i tell a customer to advance the timing is if they live at high altitudes.
Sounds like Its starving for fuel at the high end.
Try richening the low end. The engine gets fuel from both needles at full throtle.
If the needles are out nore than two turns you have an air leak.
Check for crimped fuel lines.
Is there dirt in the inlet screen?
is the engine in a cowl?
is there a hole in the firewall at the carb?
What prop are you using?
a whimpy diaphragm in the carb can cause this issue also.
08-22-2011, 09:51 AM
#5463
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RE: RCGF Engines
ORIGINAL: gringopete
Gorish
Usually the stock timing is good. 28-30 degrees. The only time i tell a customer to advance the timing is if they live at high altitudes.
Sounds like Its starving for fuel at the high end.
Try richening the low end. The engine gets fuel from both needles at full throtle.
If the needles are out nore than two turns you have an air leak.
Check for crimped fuel lines.
Is there dirt in the inlet screen?
is the engine in a cowl?
is there a hole in the firewall at the carb?
What prop are you using?
Gorish
Usually the stock timing is good. 28-30 degrees. The only time i tell a customer to advance the timing is if they live at high altitudes.
Sounds like Its starving for fuel at the high end.
Try richening the low end. The engine gets fuel from both needles at full throtle.
If the needles are out nore than two turns you have an air leak.
Check for crimped fuel lines.
Is there dirt in the inlet screen?
is the engine in a cowl?
is there a hole in the firewall at the carb?
What prop are you using?
a whimpy diaphragm in the carb can cause this issue also.
1) needles about 1 3/4
2) fuel line OK
3) don't know
4) not in cowl at this time
5) yes a fairly large hole for the carb
6) 16/8 The only other one I have is 18/8
7) don't know about the diaghragm
I was told when I sent the engine in that it was resealed. So I don't know if it has a air leak.
08-22-2011, 09:56 AM
#5464
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RE: RCGF Engines
ORIGINAL: av8tor1977
Here is a nice degree wheel I made to give to people.
But, from what you describe, it sounds like you either have the high needle set too lean, or a fuel flow problem like a kinked fuel line or a clogged filter. If you can't make the engine too rich, and four stroke at the high end with the high speed needle, then it is probably a fuel flow supply problem.
It is also possible that your top end is too rich. Hard for us to tell without being able to hear it. Try richening the top end, if that makes it worse, then try leaning it. Do no more than 1/8 turns at a time, then when you get close to the correct setting, no more than screwdriver blade width movements.
AV8TOR
Here is a nice degree wheel I made to give to people.
But, from what you describe, it sounds like you either have the high needle set too lean, or a fuel flow problem like a kinked fuel line or a clogged filter. If you can't make the engine too rich, and four stroke at the high end with the high speed needle, then it is probably a fuel flow supply problem.
It is also possible that your top end is too rich. Hard for us to tell without being able to hear it. Try richening the top end, if that makes it worse, then try leaning it. Do no more than 1/8 turns at a time, then when you get close to the correct setting, no more than screwdriver blade width movements.
AV8TOR
08-22-2011, 04:01 PM
#5467
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RE: RCGF Engines
ORIGINAL: goirish
1
1) needles about 1 3/4
2) fuel line OK
3) don't know
4) not in cowl at this time
5) yes a fairly large hole for the carb
6) 16/8 The only other one I have is 18/8
7) don't know about the diaghragm
I was told when I sent the engine in that it was resealed. So I don't know if it has a air leak.
ORIGINAL: gringopete
Gorish
Usually the stock timing is good. 28-30 degrees. The only time i tell a customer to advance the timing is if they live at high altitudes.
Sounds like Its starving for fuel at the high end.
Try richening the low end. The engine gets fuel from both needles at full throtle.
If the needles are out nore than two turns you have an air leak.
Check for crimped fuel lines.
Is there dirt in the inlet screen?
is the engine in a cowl?
is there a hole in the firewall at the carb?
What prop are you using?
Gorish
Usually the stock timing is good. 28-30 degrees. The only time i tell a customer to advance the timing is if they live at high altitudes.
Sounds like Its starving for fuel at the high end.
Try richening the low end. The engine gets fuel from both needles at full throtle.
If the needles are out nore than two turns you have an air leak.
Check for crimped fuel lines.
Is there dirt in the inlet screen?
is the engine in a cowl?
is there a hole in the firewall at the carb?
What prop are you using?
a whimpy diaphragm in the carb can cause this issue also.
1) needles about 1 3/4
2) fuel line OK
3) don't know
4) not in cowl at this time
5) yes a fairly large hole for the carb
6) 16/8 The only other one I have is 18/8
7) don't know about the diaghragm
I was told when I sent the engine in that it was resealed. So I don't know if it has a air leak.
All parts in the Carb are new..... Remember I told you that you had sucked up some black crap and it was hell getting it all out. The screen was clean when I sent it back to you. And yes the cases were resealed. The reed block and block spacer were both replaced. Your Piston and jug were replaced also. I rebuilt your CDI boot with a replacement one the you bought from me because your old one had been over heated to a point the rubber had crystallized and was not huging the plug at all. The hall switch was set where it was when I got it (About 30' BTDC) The test run after reassembly was done with 35/1 91 unleaded and high quality oil. The engine was running great with good transision from idol to wide open. I am at about 5000' ASL at the shop. I think that about covers it.
Captmicom
08-22-2011, 04:36 PM
#5468
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RE: RCGF Engines
Please don't take offense, I am very pleased with the work that you did on this engine. I would highly recommend you. I was just answering the questions that gringopete was asking to best of my knowledge. I don't doubt for a minute that you did everything you said you did. I probably am the one that screwed it up when I got it back by trying to adjust it. I will say that it seems to run better now that I have retarded the timing a little. I run it this evening again and it was doing quite well. Please accept my apology if you think I was questioning your work or ability. Not so........
08-22-2011, 04:51 PM
#5469
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RE: RCGF Engines
ORIGINAL: Captmicom
All parts in the Carb are new..... Remember I told you that you had sucked up some black crap and it was hell getting it all out. The screen was clean when I sent it back to you. And yes the cases were resealed. The reed block and block spacer were both replaced. Your Piston and jug were replaced also. I rebuilt your CDI boot with a replacement one the you bought from me because your old one had been over heated to a point the rubber had crystallized and was not huging the plug at all. The hall switch was set where it was when I got it (About 30' BTDC) The test run after reassembly was done with 35/1 91 unleaded and high quality oil. The engine was running great with good transision from idol to wide open. I am at about 5000' ASL at the shop. I think that about covers it.
Captmicom
ORIGINAL: goirish
1
1) needles about 1 3/4
2) fuel line OK
3) don't know
4) not in cowl at this time
5) yes a fairly large hole for the carb
6) 16/8 The only other one I have is 18/8
7) don't know about the diaghragm
I was told when I sent the engine in that it was resealed. So I don't know if it has a air leak.
ORIGINAL: gringopete
Gorish
Usually the stock timing is good. 28-30 degrees. The only time i tell a customer to advance the timing is if they live at high altitudes.
Sounds like Its starving for fuel at the high end.
Try richening the low end. The engine gets fuel from both needles at full throtle.
If the needles are out nore than two turns you have an air leak.
Check for crimped fuel lines.
Is there dirt in the inlet screen?
is the engine in a cowl?
is there a hole in the firewall at the carb?
What prop are you using?
Gorish
Usually the stock timing is good. 28-30 degrees. The only time i tell a customer to advance the timing is if they live at high altitudes.
Sounds like Its starving for fuel at the high end.
Try richening the low end. The engine gets fuel from both needles at full throtle.
If the needles are out nore than two turns you have an air leak.
Check for crimped fuel lines.
Is there dirt in the inlet screen?
is the engine in a cowl?
is there a hole in the firewall at the carb?
What prop are you using?
a whimpy diaphragm in the carb can cause this issue also.
1) needles about 1 3/4
2) fuel line OK
3) don't know
4) not in cowl at this time
5) yes a fairly large hole for the carb
6) 16/8 The only other one I have is 18/8
7) don't know about the diaghragm
I was told when I sent the engine in that it was resealed. So I don't know if it has a air leak.
All parts in the Carb are new..... Remember I told you that you had sucked up some black crap and it was hell getting it all out. The screen was clean when I sent it back to you. And yes the cases were resealed. The reed block and block spacer were both replaced. Your Piston and jug were replaced also. I rebuilt your CDI boot with a replacement one the you bought from me because your old one had been over heated to a point the rubber had crystallized and was not huging the plug at all. The hall switch was set where it was when I got it (About 30' BTDC) The test run after reassembly was done with 35/1 91 unleaded and high quality oil. The engine was running great with good transision from idol to wide open. I am at about 5000' ASL at the shop. I think that about covers it.
Captmicom
Someone may have asked you this, but since there was "black crap" in the carb, this may have come from the fuel tank stopper. Did you use the black stopper, or did you use the brown gas one?
08-22-2011, 05:36 PM
#5471
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RE: RCGF Engines
Not a problem I am not offended in any way. I just wanted to make sure we were able to answer all of the questions that were or could be asked. 
Captmicom
Captmicom
08-23-2011, 04:14 AM
#5472
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RE: RCGF Engines
Gorish
Do not use the return spring on the carb. Ihave many customers who can't get full throtle because they use a standard servo. When the engine is at full bore there is a lot of suction against that butterfly. Just cut the spring where it hooks on to the arm. I can't tell you how many times this has solved this problem.
Gregg
08-23-2011, 06:46 AM
#5475
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RE: RCGF Engines
ORIGINAL: barry wetherell
HI guys just got my new DLE 20 today any tips ??????
Barry
HI guys just got my new DLE 20 today any tips ??????
Barry