gibatta

My Feedback: (1)

Carburator for the FG 20 and for the new FG 21 are the same (Part # is SAIG20821), just make sure you have the "dot" on the carb to make sure you have the latest version

ForcesR

Alan0899, thank-you for the advice; I contacted HH and they are sending me a replacement carburetor

Now that's what I calloutstanding customer service

Roger

MercerAUST

Yeah, you blokes are so lucky having HH. Try getting the upgraded/replacement carby from the Australian distributor!

corbystarlet11

when you figure it out let me know!

ya33a

Hi,
Intreagued about HHQ, not helping out, rang them 3 times and sent 5 emails asking for help over the 4 years I've owned this engine, told to go back to the retailer, spoke to the retailer, who claims they contacted HHQ, who said - not our problem...
Sent claim to Dept Consumer Affairs (Last week) they contacted me, after HHQ played dumb, (Still have copies of their previous emails....they shouldn't be so keen to dismiss people) HHQ have again denied any 'issues' with these engines, so back intouch with the retailer (3 year warranty supposedly - FYI). It's up to me to send the engine back (my cost) to have them check it out and if they find nothing wrong then charge me for the 'service' of the engine and the return, so far it's cost me the price of the engine, $750. (very expensive when they first came out) then the cost of the plane it broke when it failed again, $700. My other option is to take action against them for non performance of a product as the Dept Consumer Affairs NSW are not interested in persuing it even after all the hassles I've had....
Food for thought warranties are not worth it if noone is willing to support them, btw the retailer has changed hands so the new owner isn't responsible for products sold by the previous owner???

You need to have deep pockets to follow this through to have a win here and it will cost a fortune, is it worth it, not at all that's what the problem's been all along.

corbystarlet11

sounds like America has it easy

ForcesR

Received my replacement carburetor (SAIG20821)via priority post from HH yesterday, it didn't cost me asingle pennyItonly took15 minutes to install but I couldn't do a test run due to nightfall. I will fire it up today and make a report on the test run tomorrowHopefully I will also be able to get the maiden flight completed too.

Roger

alan0899

G'day Roger,
Received my FG21 on Wednesday, spent all day Thursday setting up a test bench, will run it today, Friday 28th September,
I'll let you know how she goes.

Cheers

ForcesR

Good day Alan0899,

With the new warranty carburetor installed, the FG-20 started without any problems. I let the engine run below 4000 rpm’s for the required 10 minutes. I then went to full throttle, andwith the use of a tachometer; I set the high speed needle to get maximum RPM and then backed of the high speedneedle 2 minutes rich. I then went backto idle and then increased to full throttle; the transition was a bit sluggish so I adjusted the low speed needle 1 minute lean. I then went from idle to full throttle and the transition was responsive and fairly smooth. I then adjusted the high speed needle to maximum RPM again and backed off 2 minutes rich. I then tested throttle response from idle to full throttle again; the transition was responsive and smooth, almost perfect. Ilet the enginerun at various RPMs for another40 minutes to allow for a proper break-in period.

<o></o>

From what I can tell right now, the FG-20 does not run as smoothly as my FG-36 did after the break-in run, maybe this is do to the FG-36 having a Walbro carburetor?

<o></o>

The sun was setting low in the sky by this time and would be a hindrance during the TF Spitfire maiden test flight, so I have decided to wait until Saturday morning to do the maiden flight. I'll let you know on Monday how the maiden test flight went.

Roger

alan0899

G'day Roger,
Well I ran my FG21, yesterday, man what a sweet running engine.
First off I setup my radio, to use with the engine, so I had engine cutoff using the gear switch, just in case I needed to shut it down, in a hurry.
I started with a Zinger 15x6, it started, straight away, after a very short prime, but at 4 turns out, HS needle was too lean, so wound out to 5 turns,
still lean.
So changed to MA 16x6, it ran OK, with this prop, so let it run for 20 minutes at 5000 RPM, and 6 turns out.
It idles at 1900 RPM, & after 10 minutes or so, I just opened the throttle, & instant response, so lagging or rough running, untill it gets near to full throttle,
Then the HS needle kicks in & it goes rough & rich, as I expected, & needed it to be.
The longer it runs, the richer it becomes, because, no doubt, the piston & liner & sealing better, after all, that is what we are trying to achieve, with the run in procedure.
I ran it with an APC 17x6, for about 15 minutes, it is even smoother with a 17x6, surely the flywheel effect has a lot to do with it, still has instant pickup, from idle, & no lagg.
I am using a Booma RC, Iggy switch, & LiFe 6.6 volt 1200mah ignition pack, works a treat, & safe too. Check em out here, http://www.boomarc.com/ .
I will gradually lean it out over the next few days, as I run it & cool it, run it & cool it.
I have not touched the LS needle, no need to as yet, it idles perfectly, so far.
I also have a Saito Fuel filter inline. See Pix
Love my Saito FG 21, I hope your FG20, works out for you in your Spitfire.

Cheers.

ForcesR

Good day alan0899, the wind was too high to do the test flight on the Spitfire; I will have to wait until next Saturday to do it. The FG-20 is nowrunning really, really smoothly, justlike my FG-36. My FG-20 idles at 1900rpm also; it now transitions from idle to full throttle without any hesitation what so ever.<o></o>

At first, mine did exactly the same thing as yours at full throttle “rough running”. Then when I had approximately 2 hours of run time on the engine, it was just as if someone turned on a light switch, the engine made a different sound for a second or two, so I throttled up to full power and the rough running was barely noticeable, almost gone. I then leaned the HS needle by 1 minute and the engine ran like a well oiled machine, the rough running disappeared completely. This FG-20 is now a little power machine,it shouldpull my 9 ½ lb TF Spitfire like there is no tomorrow, and sound really, really cool doing it too.

Roger

WindGap

My Feedback: (3)

My arm hurts...been flipping this engine and can't get it to run. Been advised to use a starter, but no luck either.

Set HS needle 1-1/4 LS needle to 4-1/2 to 3-1/2.

It will spark once, and subsequent flipping wont spark(come to life). But i checked spark plug(unplugged) and its sparking. If i let it air out itll spark on first flip, but not afterwards.

The best ive gotten is a one sec run. It just wont run.

Any suggetions? Btw ive got a fg-17, but no thread for it yet.

alan0899

G'day Windgap
I hope you got your HS & LS needles mixed up, my HS needle is out 4 or 5 turns, I have not touched my LS needle.
More info needed, are you getting fuel to your carby, have you checked the spark plug gap, 0.04 to 0.05 MM.
What ignition battery voltage, is ignition pack charged.
Any other info may help as well, prop size, should not matter, as long as it's at least a 16x6.
Use an electric starter, open throttle fully, ignition off, push starter onto spinner, for 2 seconds, make sure fuel is pulled up to carby,
make sure you have a filter, & it's not blocked.
set throttle to 1/4 open, or high idle, turn ignition on, use starter, it should start.
Fuel should be standard unleaded, mixed 20:1 or 50 ML per litre, with 2 stroke oil, I use coolpower blue, it works great.
Dunno what else to say, give us some more feedback when you can.

Cheers.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Spark plug gap .5mm

WindGap

My Feedback: (3)

15x6 xoar
I used the manual's sug 1-1/4 HS needle. Perhaps not enough? LS needle as per manual clockwise. Fuel is getting to carb. It does fire, just momentarily. Just won't run.

alan0899

G'day Mate,
Sorry my mistake, Gap should be 0.4 to 0.5 mm. I was wrong, too many zero's, I sit corrected.

Cheers

WindGap

My Feedback: (3)

It's sparking when I turn engine over.

alan0899

G'day Windgap,
Is that at idle, or at full throttle. LS is in from the needle being flush with the outside of the throttle arm, I didn't touch my LS, try HS out another couple of turns, it won't hurt, as the HS only comes in
at nearly full throttle.

Cheers.

MercerAUST

Make sure you are using the manual from the Horizon Hobby web site for the initial needle settings (not the Jap/English version that typically comes with the engine).

I had my FG-20 running for a continuous 80 minutes on the weekend for a total of 60 minutes air time, 15 take/off landing cycles and about 15 minutes idling while making mechanical trim adjustments to the plane at various times. I still didn't quite empty my 500 ml fuel tank in all that time. When tuned, these engines run like clock work and have stunning economy.

To Windgap, make sure your fueling set up is OK. It took a while for me to get mine right so fuel could flow freely to the engine. Mine still isn't perfect and I have to grind away with an electric starter for about 30 seconds before the fuel flows andit fires up on a cold start. Once warmed up, it is fine and restarts on a single finger flip. I suspect the exhaust valve is sticking because there is very little compression on a cold start. I'd hate to try and finger start it in that condition! As it is, I can get it going with the electric starter and it works just fine, so I'll leave it alone for now and resist the urge to fiddle..

alan0899

G'day Windgap,
I just had my FG21 running again, changed tank from 470 ML to 180 ML or 6 OZ, runs perfect, I open throttle to about 1/4, hit with starter & in about 1 second the fuel is up to the carby,
reduce the throttle to a fast idle, turn on the ignition, & hit with my magnum geared starter, & away she goes, no grinding with starter, she just starts first hit & is running sweet.

LOVE this Engine, should have gone petrol years ago, but then again, they were'nt as good as they are now, years ago !!!!!!!

Cheers

ForcesR

WindGap;

If your engine is installed inverted, and the cowl is removed, you can inject/pour fuel down the air intake of the carburetor. You only have to put ½ to 1cc of fuel down the air intake; you can use a syringe or something similar to inject the fueldown the air intake. Just make sure your throttle is seta minimum of¼ to ½ open when you add the fuel.

When you are ready to flip the engine over, set the throttle back to a high idle setting. Your engine should fire and run for 10 seconds or less until the fuel you added is exhausted. You can do this procedure several times; if the engine runs only with the fuel you added down the carburetor, then it’s a good indication that you have a defective carburetor that will not draw fuel. This was the procedure I used to confirm I had a faulty carburetor on my FG-20.HH sent me a freereplacement carburetorwhich solved the problem. My FG-20 now starts easily and runs perfectly.

Roger

WindGap

My Feedback: (3)

Victory dance!

That's how my 7 yr old and I celebrate touchdowns!

You hit the nail on the head.

Started to think about what you suggested and what I was seeing. The carb wouldn't prime unless throttle fully open. So, the HS needle needed to be opened up. 5 turns counter clockwise, and it fird up. Getting somewhere. Opened up the LS needle to manual sug setting(3-1/2 unlike the fg-20) and it fired to life. Slowly closed the HS needle to tune out mid range after 15 min of < 4000rpm. Will tune some more later. All in all, it seems to fire up immediately at these new settings.

Thanks for all you help. Will be back for final tuning suggestions.

WindGap

My Feedback: (3)

Ok got it in the air and deadsticked many times as i tuned. Kept opening LS needle and it got better each time until i ran into mechanical problems, called it quits. Engine would quit when increasing throttle on climbs(loading engines). Club member said LS needle too lean.

I think i need to open LS needle and keep flying/tuning till I hit the sweet spot. Any suggestions?

corbystarlet11

Im having the same problem to, i had valves cleared but didnt seem to do much, but after i did i noticed i had to richin up the low speed to get it idling properly again

MercerAUST

I think it is normally best to have the LS needle rich (try a full half turn richer) and then you can tune the HS about 10 clicks leaner to clean up the transition and top end. In my view, the best onground tune method is to point the prop to the sky. If it keeps running without missing a beat,  it should not deadstick in the air due to the tuning being out. If it suddenly dies, try a bit richer on the HS. If it runs rough, try a bit leaner on the HS. Only adjust one click at a time if you are close.

Grab a sapre spark plug if you don't have one already. Mucking around with the tuning can get the plug pretty dirty and, when you have it running reliable (but it is still rough), a new plug might help.