I Bought a Combo setup EF yak 54 74" with the Brillelli 46 gas motor and CH RCEXL ignition. I was looking at CH ignitions website and read that a motor with a CTC or TCSA setup has to be timed with a degree wheel.

I don't know what makes a CTC or TCSA motor, Does anyone know if this applies to the Brillelli 46 motor?

Thanks
MaX

CTC Computer timing Control = CH sychro spark and the Chinese RCEXL units

TCSA Throttle coupled spark advance = a regular CH unit where the timing pick up is moved along with the throttle

The CH RCEXL ignition is a CTC unit like a CH with synchro spark

I bought one for a different engine. It came with a supplied bracket that Keyed the ignition pick up to a certain position. I then checked it with a degree wheel and it was at 28 degrees BTDC already

Any engine with an external ignition system and spark plug needs to timed correctly in order to run properly or at all.

C.T.C. = Computer Timing Control - Brillelli has this ignition type

T.C.S.A. = Throttle Coupled Spark Advance

Your engine will have already been timed.

Thanks for all the help guys!!!

I just wanted to add, this doesn't mean it can't be out of time. I was just saying they were timed before shipped.

Yeah a few have had their timing off so it's good to check it. C&H ingnitions has a nice timing wheel you can download and print.

Glad you guys are here to help!!! With Scott closing down I was worried I wouldn’t find much info on setting up this motor.

So I was taking a look at CH ignitions website with the timing wheel. It explains “The easiest way to lock the timing plate is to drill (#36 drill) into the side of the plate and tap for a 6/32 set screw.�

Can anyone here post a picture of this? Want to get this right the first time since I have no way of sending it in for repairs if I get it wrong.

Thanks again guys!!
Max

You would use that procedure if you you were converting a throttle coupled spark advanced ignition system(T.C.S.A.) to a computer timing control ignition system(C.T.C.).

I may be wrong but I'm not aware of any Brillelli engines that used a T.C.S.A. ignition. Do you have linkage from the carb to a belcrank and ring that rotates back and forth around the front of the crankcase housing when the throttle is manipulated?

Whups, I meant degree wheel. You use their "degree wheel" to set the CTC ignition. 28-32 degrees Before Top Dead Center (BTDC). BTDC can be found, with the plug still in, by rocking the crank shaft in that little bit of play. Mark it right in the middle of that play.

Thanks Jody (man I'm dangerous).

http://www.ch-ignitions.com/timing.html

Jedijody,

Thanks for clearing that up for me, saved me a drill job!!!

Joe,

Thanks to you, also! will download the degree wheel and see if this thing is set right.

Never did get starting instuctions for this motor, just a single page on setting up the high and low needle. Been flying glow for years, but am new to all the gas stuff. Any good Faqs you could suggest on starting and running gas motors? Want to learn everything I can!!

Max

Here's what I like lately. Works great.

1) Set throttle to 1/3 throttle. Choke closed, ignition on. Flip until it pops (up to 10 flips for the first start of the day starting with no fuel in the tank).
2) Set throttle to high idle. Choke off. Flip 2-3 times and it always starts up.

After that it always starts the 1st flip no choke. It depends on the engine, needle settings, and temp outside. I always shut my engine down with the ignition switch to make sure there's fuel right there for the next start.

Used this for many years on chain saws. It works on gas model engines too

Will have to wait till I can get home and check, but don't think this motor has a choke on it. Do I just open throttle up and place a finger over the card like on a glow motor to choke?

It has a choke. There's a little arm that controls it.

Sure does, removed the cowl and there it was staring right at me! I take it most just hook a push rod to this and run it out the side of the cowl?

You can use your finger but beware the prop

Here is my B46 experience, I have the Zama carb BTW:

Problem 1: Would not start easy because the engine would not prime. The solution was to cover the weep hole in the choke butterfly with JB Weld. It took me over a year to figure this out. I figured this out by shoving my chicken stick (a big thumb would also work) into the carb intake and watching the gas flow - with the ignition off.

Problem 2: Could not get it to idle low. The solution was to fully remove (instead of backing it out) the original mechical throttle stop - dumb! Again took me over a year and this was really frustrating as I thought my problem was low end fuel mixture.

Both problems could have been easily and quickly resolved if I had aggressively pursued them.

YEP !!! It's that easy.

I put a nose gear style arm on it and reach in and flick it with my finger but only when the ignition cut off is OFF but I can stick my whole hand inside the cowl of my EF yak.

Not if it's baffled properly. The engine will run hot like that. There's louvers for them now that you can cut out for only the cylinder area.

I usually use a choke servo. I've got 9 pieces of titanium in my lower back and I don't like bending over to fiddle with the choke rod anymore. It's not too hard to run a 2/56 nyrod up to the choke lever and put it on a switch on the TX. I usually brace the rod up every 4" to 6" inside the fuse. The 2/56 nyrod is cheap, but it takes a lot of torque to move a choke lever and the rods will flex if you don't brace them up. Works good to kill the engine in an emergency. Most of the time, I use it to kill the engine after taxiing back to the pits. Then reach over and turn the ignition switch off.

I used to use graphite on the throttle cable because people told me the nyrods contract and expand in the heat. I haven't noticed it enough for it to be a problem. Again, 2/56 nyrods are cheap and light. It just takes 3 or 4 small lite-ply braces to keep it from flexing.

I have the baffle but never installed it because it runs just dandy and when I hit it with an IR gun its plenty cool.

Hmmm, then I guess it's just for looks eh? Another guy said his engine ran hot without it.