Let a carb dry out over a long period of time and it would be easier to kick a dead horse than to start the engine at times. Just leave it be

ok thanks

Well I see I am not the only one to buy and check out servos. I only bought one of the HD 9150 and that was enough. Futaba and Hitec always for me.

I found out by reving my DLE30 up a bit & then flooding it out with the choke, that it would start up with no choking 2-3 hours later. If I waited too the next day to start it....it would only take about 4 flips. When I did not flood it out....next day at least ten flips to fire. A good side benifit is all parts in your engine are protected better with oil! Capt,n Hey....give it a try!!!!!!!!!

Bad ignition module, it's not advancing properly.

The ignition is the only thing I don't have a second of. Guess I will just have to order one to see.

Thanks for the help

I have had this happen to several different engines over the years. Now I keep a "back-up" ignition in my field box. This doesn't happen often, but it does happen.

Hi everyone:

I'm having a problem with my DLE30.. this is my first gas engine.

I installed it on my X260 and had 2 good flights and after that the problems started.

I do the same procedure to turn it on like usual and all i get is it: Sputters to turn on and then dies, starts doing misfires or just won't turn on at all!

I checked the tank, the fuel lines, cleaned the carb, check to make sure all ignition wires where nice and tight and connected, check the battery voltage [i'm using a hydrimax 4.8v 1600mah] and it had 4.94-5.03 volts..

And still it keeps doing what i described earlier.

What's wrong with the engine?

I used the same battery all during break-in period in my test stand and it never did this.

Also after the second flight the engine in idle started to vibrate terribly , where in the test stand i had the engine dialed in and it wouldn't vbrate and if it did was very little.

I'm also using the same break-in prop i used in my test stand whihc is a 18x8 which is balanced and its hole perfectly drilled.

Again i ask.. What's wrong with my engine?

It sound like the engine is running rich now for some reason. Did you run a line from pump cover to a calm area or change anything do do with the cowl position? Maybe the spark plug went south already. Keep eliminating each thing it could be.....you will get it going good. The guys on this forum will help you out there too. Nice guys. Take care Capt,n

Well i did take out the spark plug a few time and it was quite dripping wet with fuel.. but i haven't touched the setting on the carb since i had it on the test stand. I dried the spark plug and it turned on easily but then after maybe a few minutes it died. and again the same sputtering and misfiring problem once more...

And i had it set on the test stand in the same position its on the plane which is cylinder down.

My father who is also a modeler for a lot of year [since '52] told me it could be the spark plug but i tried to find a replacement and got none.. checked evry auto part, trimmer store and hobby.. none have one that will fit or is the same... I ordered a new one from the hobby shop i allways go to and also bought the engine from them, but it won't arrieve until saturday at best..

If by some reason the engine is too rich.. how do i fix it? take out the Low speed needle or turn it in?

Turning it in leans the mixture on both needles...that would be the same way a clock runs= clokwise. Just do a tittle at a time untill you get the desired setting. Capt,n

Oh okay.. well in the test stand i moved them both a bit.. just don't remember which way..

Guess i'll try that untl i can find another spark plug to also check that.

Unless its something else? Could it be the ignition module??? though if it the engine was working and it does sputter, misfire it means its sending the spark correctly right??

If you haven't tried it already, just hook the ignition battery direct, eliminating the switch.

Greg

Thank you i'll try that tomorrow as well..

Question how do i tell if the ignition has gonne bad?

<hr />Try this to the spark plug you have. Use a dremel cut-off wheel &amp; cut the center electrode so it ends about in center of middle post. Clean plug with carb cleaner &amp; compresed air. The spark can jump off a edge more easy and it will hit about in the same spot keeping the center post clean there. Try It!!! Capt,n

Good technique capt. I kinda did the same but just cleaned more stuff fromt eh spark it had like this black carbon style junk cleaned it with a bit of clean gas and air and bingo super clean..

I switched the battery on my iginiton to a 6volt 11mah and the engine stopped giving me that problem it had..

But now it has another.. after a flight when you land and you start to turnt he engine dies in idle... i have checked the idle in the floor taking off the cowling and the idle is so low you can practically see the prop barely stop before going again.. you can advance the throttle to full with no hesitation and lower it back to idle and it can be on idle for 1-2 min a sudden burst and idle again and it won't die..

yet after again another flight as soon as it's lost its forward momentum and you turn to bring it back to the pits.. Boom again dead.. you walk to it flip the prop and on the 2nd one its again on.. moves closer to the pits [about um 40 feet from you again] and boom engine dies again...

I installed a brand new 3004 servo for the throttle.. to take out the guess of maybe a servo glitch.. what could be doing this?

Untill you get the engine broke in real good....try a low pitch prop &amp; use a tad higher (faster) idle when you land.Let us know if that helps. Together we, with the help of others will cure that....I hope! Capt,n

A 20x6 prop works well during break in. Allows for 2000 rpm reliable idle, and still have a slow landing speed.

well i'm using a 18x8 Ma prop.. I have a 19x6 xoar wooden prop but its for after break-in i heard..

Prob with using higher idle to land is that when i turn around it comes back like a bullet and i have to kill the engine.. since my flying field has an asphalt runway.

The guys int he field told me to raise the idle a bit higher that maybe i have an idle too low.. sinc eyou really can see the prop barely stop and turn back on.. Could that be it?

well i'm using a 18x8 Ma prop.. I have a 19x6 xoar wooden prop but its for after break-in i heard..

Prob with using higher idle to land is that when i turn around it comes back like a bullet and i have to kill the engine.. since my flying field has an asphalt runway.

The guys int he field told me to raise the idle a bit higher that maybe i have an idle too low.. sinc eyou really can see the prop barely stop and turn back on.. Could that be it?

I am running and broke in mine witha 20x6 . No issues. I also land on asphalt. 2000 rpm works well.

hmm i keep hearing everyone mention 2000 rpm in idle..

I don't own a tach so i dunno how low my idle speed.

Could that be the problem?

As long as the plane doesn't roll at idle it is OK