DLE30!
#3176
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From: Toronto, ON, CANADA
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I have a rear intake DLE 30 on my Pilot 73" Yak 54 at about 11 lbs + fuel and it wil hover at about 1/3 throttle ( actually more like 1/4 as I have set a throttle curve) using a Zoar 19 x 3D A prop. It will easily climb out of the hover given more throttle, actually it will keep climbing till it's a speck.
I am using a CRRC pitts type muffler to keep the noise down so if you use the stock ( yet noisey) muffler you will have a little more power.
The 3 DA prop has a little more punch at this throttle setting than the Zoar 19x8 but both will be good for learning 3D with your DLE 30
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I'm new to RCU and I'm planning to buy a dle30 with rear carb. for my extreme flight yak 54 74".
Would I have enough power for beginning 3D? How much throttle for hovering?
And what would you guys suggest for prop when running in?
Would I have enough power for beginning 3D? How much throttle for hovering?
And what would you guys suggest for prop when running in?
I am using a CRRC pitts type muffler to keep the noise down so if you use the stock ( yet noisey) muffler you will have a little more power.
The 3 DA prop has a little more punch at this throttle setting than the Zoar 19x8 but both will be good for learning 3D with your DLE 30
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#3177

Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Harrisburg,
SD
I tested the DLE30 again last week with the cyberplate rear conversion and a Vess 19A and am getting 15lb of thrust +/- 2 oz. On my 12lb. Edge 540 it pulls out of a hover and accelerates at a descent pace. Pulling 12lb. Straight up is really no easy task if you think about it. It’s no rocket out of a hover, but good.. I have nice steady harriers, beautiful flat spins, hovers at a strong 1/3 throttle all day. It does the best ssssslllllllllooooooowwwwwww knife edge harriers I have seen (huge rudder surface). Good luck with your’s, I know I love both of mine. I have a side carb. on a Yak that I am putting the new rear conversion from Valley View on next week. Will get some thrust numbers on that when it is done.
#3180

My Feedback: (2)
Regarding 3D prop size, I'm a first season 3D rookie, so still a ton to learn. Flying a 10.5lb Funtana 125 w/26cc RCGF/Aerovate, so you DLE guys have even more power than I do. I think the 8" or 10" pitch props are both going to fly the 3D planes OK, but wondering why you might want the kind of top end speeds produced with that kind of pitch on a 3D plane? I think you might be further ahead letting the engine rev up a little with a 6" pitch prop? I think the 6" will be much kinder regarding flutter on the over-sized 3D control surfaces by limiting top end speed (though still a big concern!), will increase available thrust (ability to accelerate out of a hover or while vertical), and the thing will stop on a dime when throttled down (depending on CG). FWIW
#3181
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
In 3d you want the largest diameter, lowest pitch prop the engine will effectively handle for this type of flying. So 6 and 8 pitch props will be good starting points. Those that don't mind experimenting might find even lower pitches beneficial if they can find props in larger diameters.
Oversize control surfaces and flutter are not really an issue when the controls are installed correctly using servos sized accordingly. Typically flutter occurs when some part of the installation was defective, like undersize control rods and linkage, weak servos, bad hinging, ultra wide hinge gaps, etc. As planes become larger and have larger sufaces the need for sealing hinge gaps becomes more and more important to assist preventing flutter. A side benefit is more precise and predictable contols.
Oversize control surfaces and flutter are not really an issue when the controls are installed correctly using servos sized accordingly. Typically flutter occurs when some part of the installation was defective, like undersize control rods and linkage, weak servos, bad hinging, ultra wide hinge gaps, etc. As planes become larger and have larger sufaces the need for sealing hinge gaps becomes more and more important to assist preventing flutter. A side benefit is more precise and predictable contols.
#3182

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From: Harrisburg,
SD
ORIGINAL: cloudancer03
which edge 540??
which edge 540??
It is a PeakModel 26cc Edge. I got it because it was cheap and had the Red Bull scheme, which was cool. After I worked in a little Rudder to Elevator mix and a Rudder to Aileron mix the thing fly's super. Started with an RCGF 26 and switched to DLE 30 last month.....almost like flying a new plane!!
#3183

My Feedback: (2)
T.O.M., agreed on the control surfaces, but only after a couple seasons worth of hard learned lessons.
It looks to me like the directions for the size planes these smaller (but still very powerfull) gas engines are run in haven't quite caught up with the requirements the gas engines impose on the airframes. Unfortunately, rookies like me are following them assuming they'll work. From what I've read over and over again here on RCU, as well as experiences gained the hard way, there have been MANY maiden flight/early test flight disasters because of a lack of good information in the directions regarding (or maybe emphasis placed on)the issues you mention above? Like: At what point is the kit hardware not sufficient? Exactly how heavy is "heavy enough" - for my application? What does "right" look like?
My thought earlier was the 8-10" pitch props wouldn't help this (lack of good directions) issue one bit. The faster speeds generated by them only increase the potential for flutter, and they aren't all that desirable a prop for 3D anyway.
Also, and maybe much closer to being on point, ground clearance issues may start popping up (using the standard gear) when you get into the 18, 19, and 20" props. Just a heads up if that thought hasn't registered yet... FWIW
It looks to me like the directions for the size planes these smaller (but still very powerfull) gas engines are run in haven't quite caught up with the requirements the gas engines impose on the airframes. Unfortunately, rookies like me are following them assuming they'll work. From what I've read over and over again here on RCU, as well as experiences gained the hard way, there have been MANY maiden flight/early test flight disasters because of a lack of good information in the directions regarding (or maybe emphasis placed on)the issues you mention above? Like: At what point is the kit hardware not sufficient? Exactly how heavy is "heavy enough" - for my application? What does "right" look like?
My thought earlier was the 8-10" pitch props wouldn't help this (lack of good directions) issue one bit. The faster speeds generated by them only increase the potential for flutter, and they aren't all that desirable a prop for 3D anyway.
Also, and maybe much closer to being on point, ground clearance issues may start popping up (using the standard gear) when you get into the 18, 19, and 20" props. Just a heads up if that thought hasn't registered yet... FWIW
#3186
I had a 20x6 that I got from Tower H at around $14+ and it was Maple wood made in Italy. I broke the darn tip on a rather nasty Midwest Giles 202 landing short of the field. Man that was a nice prop! Capt,n
#3187

My Feedback: (2)
ORIGINAL: captinjohn
I had a 20x6 that I got from Tower H at around $14+ and it was Maple wood made in Italy. I broke the darn tip on a rather nasty Midwest Giles 202 landing short of the field. Man that was a nice prop! Capt,n
I had a 20x6 that I got from Tower H at around $14+ and it was Maple wood made in Italy. I broke the darn tip on a rather nasty Midwest Giles 202 landing short of the field. Man that was a nice prop! Capt,n
#3188
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
ORIGINAL: ahicks
T.O.M., agreed on the control surfaces, but only after a couple seasons worth of hard learned lessons.
It looks to me like the directions for the size planes these smaller (but still very powerfull) gas engines are run in haven't quite caught up with the requirements the gas engines impose on the airframes. Unfortunately, rookies like me are following them assuming they'll work. From what I've read over and over again here on RCU, as well as experiences gained the hard way, there have been MANY maiden flight/early test flight disasters because of a lack of good information in the directions regarding (or maybe emphasis placed on)the issues you mention above? Like: At what point is the kit hardware not sufficient? Exactly how heavy is ''heavy enough'' - for my application? What does ''right'' look like?
My thought earlier was the 8-10'' pitch props wouldn't help this (lack of good directions) issue one bit. The faster speeds generated by them only increase the potential for flutter, and they aren't all that desirable a prop for 3D anyway.
Also, and maybe much closer to being on point, ground clearance issues may start popping up (using the standard gear) when you get into the 18, 19, and 20'' props. Just a heads up if that thought hasn't registered yet... FWIW
T.O.M., agreed on the control surfaces, but only after a couple seasons worth of hard learned lessons.
It looks to me like the directions for the size planes these smaller (but still very powerfull) gas engines are run in haven't quite caught up with the requirements the gas engines impose on the airframes. Unfortunately, rookies like me are following them assuming they'll work. From what I've read over and over again here on RCU, as well as experiences gained the hard way, there have been MANY maiden flight/early test flight disasters because of a lack of good information in the directions regarding (or maybe emphasis placed on)the issues you mention above? Like: At what point is the kit hardware not sufficient? Exactly how heavy is ''heavy enough'' - for my application? What does ''right'' look like?
My thought earlier was the 8-10'' pitch props wouldn't help this (lack of good directions) issue one bit. The faster speeds generated by them only increase the potential for flutter, and they aren't all that desirable a prop for 3D anyway.
Also, and maybe much closer to being on point, ground clearance issues may start popping up (using the standard gear) when you get into the 18, 19, and 20'' props. Just a heads up if that thought hasn't registered yet... FWIW
You bring up some very good points.
The first thing I'll say is the moment you switch from glow to gas, 2-56 hardware became a thing of the past. 4-40 minimum on everything. The nyrod control rods aren't really functional anymore because of the inherent flex they provide. You must have rigid and stong control linkage. Slop free connections are another critical item. Flutter can develop if horn/linkage connections permit a lot of free movement. Using a couple of 2-56 screws to attach horns to surfaces generally needs to be changed to a diferent fastener. The bolt on horn might be ok, but sheet metal screw fasteners come out pretty quick. No easy connectors on gas planes. Anywhere, ever.
Floppy and weak flight surfaces are no longer tolerable. Not because of flight loading but because the combustion shock pulses from the engine combines with weak surfaces and hinging and breaks things. On a personal level I don't think CA hinges should be used on gas engine aircraft but many manage to do just fine.
Prop clearance can be dealt with as long as there are no personal concerns with adding a shim plate under the landing gear to raise the height, or replacing stock gear with after market stuff that is longer and stronger than stock. Since gas engines often add weight to the nose, stronger gear could be desirable anyway.
#3189

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From: Fairview,
PA
I have a question.
I have converted my DLE 30 side carb to rear carb, and have it running just the way I want it.
The question I have is this. Will I have to readjust the carb again when I revert back to the side carb if or when I do that?
I have converted my DLE 30 side carb to rear carb, and have it running just the way I want it.
The question I have is this. Will I have to readjust the carb again when I revert back to the side carb if or when I do that?
#3194
Senior Member
ORIGINAL: captinjohn
I had a 20x6 that I got from Tower H at around $14+ and it was Maple wood made in Italy. I broke the darn tip on a rather nasty Midwest Giles 202 landing short of the field. Man that was a nice prop! Capt,n
I had a 20x6 that I got from Tower H at around $14+ and it was Maple wood made in Italy. I broke the darn tip on a rather nasty Midwest Giles 202 landing short of the field. Man that was a nice prop! Capt,n
Saw a 100 RPM gain on the first run .It is still set a little rich on top.
The ring we took out looked like crap under a mag glass.I am flying one 30 that has pretty poor compression not much time on this one.I will try a Bowman ring in it after surgery. Going to order some more FB rings. Sen't yours today.
BCCHI
#3195
ORIGINAL: bcchi
TKG installed one of the Bowman rings in the DL 30 that is out test stand at this time.Right away compression felt better and getting better the more we run it.
Saw a 100 RPM gain on the first run .It is still set a little rich on top.
The ring we took out looked like crap under a mag glass.I am flying one 30 that has pretty poor compression not much time on this one.I will try a Bowman ring in it after surgery. Going to order some more FB rings. Sen't yours today.
BCCHI
ORIGINAL: captinjohn
I had a 20x6 that I got from Tower H at around $14+ and it was Maple wood made in Italy. I broke the darn tip on a rather nasty Midwest Giles 202 landing short of the field. Man that was a nice prop! Capt,n
I had a 20x6 that I got from Tower H at around $14+ and it was Maple wood made in Italy. I broke the darn tip on a rather nasty Midwest Giles 202 landing short of the field. Man that was a nice prop! Capt,n
Saw a 100 RPM gain on the first run .It is still set a little rich on top.
The ring we took out looked like crap under a mag glass.I am flying one 30 that has pretty poor compression not much time on this one.I will try a Bowman ring in it after surgery. Going to order some more FB rings. Sen't yours today.
BCCHI
#3196
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
ORIGINAL: kgeb
Good advice T.O.M. I was always told metal geared servos also. Is that true?
Good advice T.O.M. I was always told metal geared servos also. Is that true?
Metal is better, but set up correctly nylon gears work out rather well. Karbonite stuff works until the planes get larger. Wasn't that long ago the best we had for giants was the 8411 nylon geared servo. I still use 4721's on throttles. But they are not the lowest priced servo. Very good quality.
#3197

w8ye a little off note I see you on the NASA Plum Brook list I was out there Thursday needs some work to get it back in shape but not bad for being locked out for 2 years. Hope to see you there.
#3200
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From: Mascoutah, IL
ORIGINAL: bcchi
TKG installed one of the Bowman rings in the DL 30 that is out test stand at this time.Right away compression felt better and getting better the more we run it.
Saw a 100 RPM gain on the first run .It is still set a little rich on top.
The ring we took out looked like crap under a mag glass.I am flying one 30 that has pretty poor compression not much time on this one.I will try a Bowman ring in it after surgery. Going to order some more FB rings. Sen't yours today.
BCCHI
ORIGINAL: captinjohn
I had a 20x6 that I got from Tower H at around $14+ and it was Maple wood made in Italy. I broke the darn tip on a rather nasty Midwest Giles 202 landing short of the field. Man that was a nice prop! Capt,n
I had a 20x6 that I got from Tower H at around $14+ and it was Maple wood made in Italy. I broke the darn tip on a rather nasty Midwest Giles 202 landing short of the field. Man that was a nice prop! Capt,n
Saw a 100 RPM gain on the first run .It is still set a little rich on top.
The ring we took out looked like crap under a mag glass.I am flying one 30 that has pretty poor compression not much time on this one.I will try a Bowman ring in it after surgery. Going to order some more FB rings. Sen't yours today.
BCCHI
I am asking this becouse I was thinking about buying one.
Thanks




