My 30 has a longer alum arm that came with it and can be used to lengthen the throttle arm out very much like the steering arm, I also turned it around so it was pulling and not pushing it. If a person uses it as it comes the throttle throw is very fast and is not desirable for most flyers. I use a good servo on the throttle and leave the spring in tact, reason being if I ever had a throttle connection failure the spring will at least pull it back to an idle or kill it.

Soft mounts reduce power. The reason many do not use them is they want all they can get. I can always tell if a mount has come loose on a pylon racer as the first indication is my plane has slowed down.

<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="font-size: 10pt">Guys,</span></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="font-size: 10pt">I have read 69 pages so far and kind of burned out. So I need to ask the following question now as it will take me days to read the rest of this thread. I have a chance to buy a new DLE30 <u>side mount </u>carb engine. It the side carb engine issue still a real problem, was there ever a fix found without having to go to a rear carb set up? Unfortunately for me, the new DLE rear mount will not work in my plane without having to modify the firewall and I do not want to go down that path. The engine needs to be 130mm from firewall to the spinner base. The DLE30 side carb is perfect for this.</span></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="font-size: 10pt">Should I buy the side carb DLE30 engine?</span><span style="font-size: 10pt"> I don&rsquo;t know any other good engine options at this time and I am new to gas powered planes.</span></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="font-size: 10pt">Thanks.</span></div>

Yes, buy it. You will enjoy

If you can get a good price on the side intake...go for it. It sohuld sell for less than the rear intake DLE 30. Capt,n

Side carb after broken in. It was only finicky for the first half gallon until got some time and tune on it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7h4Fdg3r34

DLE-30 cold starting? I was just wondering what everybodys experience has been with this. My engine has about 4 gallons through it and just runs perfect, however the starting difficultiesfrom cold have not changed since day one. I can flip it 50 times without even a hint of a pop before I finally just resort to the starter which works with no problems. Once hot the engine naturally fires right up after a few flips.

I figure it must be my setup. I usea servo choke and have not sealed off the small hole on the choke plate. The servo does appear to be completely closing the choke however. The whole issue seems to be that when I hand prop it, I just can't seem to ever see fuel drawing through the line.Now I understand that these carbs were designed around the pull starting method with a recoil line, so as expected withmy electricstarter itfires it right up.

Another thought is apossible flowrestrictionfrom the felt clunk filter in my tank. I'm thinking initially that this type clunk makes it difficult to draw fuel, butonce the engine is running it is negligible or non-existenton engine performance. It's the Walbro 125-527 clunk that others have used. My fuel line is minimum length, 1/8" ID.

I'm getting ready to put the engine in another plane and I think I will remove the felt clunk and go with just a normal one. I have a nearly identical slightly largerfelt clunk also in my fueling can so this should be sufficient for filtering anyway. I'm also considering closing up the hole on the choke plate with JB Weld. Would this be a good type sealant/adhesive to use for this?

Capt Cash
Hard first starts are usually related to lean on fuel. That is why there is a choke, to allow for richer on start up. I would richen my low end a tad.

The best way to close the small hole in the choke plate is with solder.

Thanks, will give a try. It transitions very well now with no burbling any more hardly at all. Just didn't want to mess with the needles unless I really needed to. This is my first gasser and I've found the needles are sensitive as people have told me. I can hear a noticeable difference when adjusting the high end by just a 1/16" or barely the width of the screwdriver blade.

The choke plate solder option makes me nervous should it come loose eventually and go into the engine. Should I scuff up the area and use flux? A mini torch would work best, but I think a soldering iron would be safest.

I'd pull the carb, then scuff it up and then use fluxs and solder it, if it looks grainy then it is a cold solder joint and you will need to redo it.

I own many gas engines and have never soldered the hole closed.

I should have mentioned that pulling on fuel vs pulling on a gas (air going through one of the hose fittings) are so mechanically different that when the fuel does not fill the fuel line quickly I usually would think that there is a small vacuum leak between the carb and the clunk (felt clunks are the best). So do you have twist ties on all the hose fittings?

My fuel line is direct and secure. It's attached to the tank with a barb and zip tie. There is no "T" section for a refueling port or inline filter either.

I have a friend with the DLE-30 that has no troubles cold starting and has not sealed the choke hole on his either. I think I will do this as my last resort now.

I'm thinking the cause is possiblythe felt clunk or that my low end is slightly lean. I should also add that when the engine is hot (such as when I shut it off and then immediatly attempt a restart) it can also take about 5 flips, sometimes more to get it going. Although it has started warm on rare occasions on the first or second flip. This would be a symptom of being too lean on the low needle correct?

Thanks for the help, will report back.

Hey CaptCash, believe I heard that rocking the prop back & forth several times, activates the pump in carb & draws fuel.

T-man49 in Alabama
Club Saito #723

Ignition off, throttle WOT, choke on.....rock the prop back and forth against the compression....it works the pump...if you have the chance to do it with the cowl off you will see it draw the fuel up the line to the carb...now here is the part that I have not perfected...if while you are rocking the prop you are listening you will hear a squishing when the fuel is finally drawn into the chamber around the rings....once you get there...choke off, throttle cracked, ignition on and give it a good stroke....I have seen guys with 50, 100 and 150cc engines turn on that ignition and get it on the first stroke each and every day....if you got the fuel up into the chamber the worst it might be is to pop and make you prop it another time or three....and yes, a perfectly leaned low end will be harder to draw up the fuel...my experience.

And a big hello out to mr Ralph. I hope you are doing ok and want to know if I will see you at the Nall this year.

R

Hey thanks! That's just what I wanted to hear and it definitely makes sense.

I have tried rocking the prop before but I guess not at full throttle with choke on. Iassume if you rock ittoo much for too longit gets flooded, so there is a sweet spot? I realize these engines are afterall very similar to starting my homeweed eater. Onceyou figure outwhat works you try toremember it and duplicate it each time.Will be experimenting with it.

Rich, yes

<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="2"><span style="font-size: 10pt">Can someone please post some pictures of <u>side views</u> (each side) and one <u>rear view</u> of the DLE-30 rear carb engine <u>with</u> the factory muffler?</span></font></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="1"></font></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="2"><span style="font-size: 10pt">All pictures on the internet show the muffler at an angle. I need to be sure that the muffler will clear the firewall. I have not bought an engine yet but will need to use a shorter length standoff. I am trying to determine how far back the muffler protrudes towards the carb (back of the engine). I posted pictures below as an example but need them with the muffler. </span></font></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="1"></font></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="2"><span style="font-size: 10pt">Thanks.</span></font></div>

<p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: "Courier New"; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">w8ye,

</p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: "Courier New"; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">

 </p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: "Courier New"; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">Thanks for the quick response and nice giant pictures. Those standoffs look to be about 20mm in length. What is the length?</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">

</p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">

 </p></span></p>

I can go measure the stand-off on my airplane....it is one of the airplanes in the photos just posted. Capt,n

Those pictures are from this thread. I just went back and looked for something that showed the muffler close to the firewall.

I did measure the stand-off length. It is .800 or 800/1000 of a inch. I choose that length so the exhaust will be close...but most important.... I can adjust the fuel mix through 2 , 1/8 holes drilled just back of fire wall. It works out good. I am going to get a better exhaust later. It is ok for anyone to use any photos I place on RCU....I did it to try to be of a help. Best Regards Capt,n

Nice photos... very helpful to me..... my engine is mounted and flying now....but I will re-install the engine soon on another airplane so the photos will be very helpful.... thanks...

Hear is another....it shows 2 small screw drivers placed in holes to adjust the carb. Capt,n