GSK

Then on landing I hit a gopher hole????
OK please do not give me a hard time here ,but What is a Gopher .


Graeme

donnspadbauer

My Feedback: (26)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gopher_(animal)

Must hum Caddy Shack theme whilst reading

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

It is a small furry Animal in the rodent family and if given enough time can bury a Buick, but as a rule only make a hole large enough for them to get through 3-4 inches in dia .
They can turn a garden into a real mess in just a few days,as well as farmers crops and so forth. There is actually a bounty on them here, because of the destructive manners.

GSK

Thanks guys .
Graeme

rc34074

My Feedback: (5)

I fly mustangs mainly, with a p47 or fw190 here and there.

I will add my 2 cents worth here- flying with retracts off grass can be a simple thing to do but this depends on the runway, how short the grass is, and the combination of how strong the wing/retract area is in the wing and the specific retracts you have/use. The size of the plane and wheels you have will also be a factor, as will the location of the wheels compared to the CG of the plane.

A rough field with high grass will give you lots of problems. If your field is fairly smooth and the grass is kept short this is a big step forward. To me for a 60 size warbird the field needs to be rolled with a road roller at least once a year, and the grass kept to no more than 3 inches maximum. For that matter if you are going to fly the typical 40 inch wingspan electrics off this field it needs to be cut even shorter if the club is going to want to adapt to the world of electric flight. If they don't bother to do this they will gradually die off as a club. It's very obvious in Ohio how this is happening - at least it was when I lived there and I seriously doubt that it has changed much since then. In fact that last summer I lived there I went to a couple of "warbird" events in the cleveland/akron area that had entirely inadequate runways for the event the were advertising - and it showed in the problems people had trying to fly there - too bad.

Anyway as to the planes to me there are NO arf warbirds that are built properly in the retract mounting are, so I always beef up mine when I assemble them, and I modify the retract rails so the axle of the wheel is even with the leading edge of the wing (when extended of course). Top Flite is the closest to having strong enough mounts but I beef them up as well. I also have found over the last 20+ years that certain brands of retracts are built for reliability and durability and I throw away nearly all arf retracts and replace them with Spring Air, Robart (only the robarts with aluminum frames - the ones with the molded plastic frames are worthless) and Sierra gear. I always use oleo struts and I always get the retracts that accept the oleos directly into a pocket int the retract without using those stupid adaptor wires (where you have to grind flats on the wires to align the wheels).

So this is the basics to me of having a warbird with retracts that are reliable and a plane the will hold up to years of flying. My last 60 size mustang flew great for over 7 years when assembled this way - at least 800 flights. So now I'm putting together a new 60 size mustang from the same company.

By the way I also fly an 81 inch mustang which I am re-engining with a DLE30 and I so I lurk in this thread quite a bit.

Good Luck and good flying

Ed

wetbird

My Feedback: (3)

Happy Super Bowl weekend everyone!
I have the same question as DG. I couldn't find where anyone answered his question, so I thought I would try this! I fly float planes & have a new project where I'm installing a new DLE 30 engine. I'm not all that familar with gas engines and really not familar with having to drill multpal holes in the prop hub. I use composite props where water doesn't cause damage to the prop tips. I purchased a Glass-Filled Nylon 18 x 8 prop, but the backside is milled/molded to where there's not much material for strenth if drilled.
My question is the same as DG! Can this type of propeller be drilled and safely used or should I find another prop that has a solid center hub, if that's even possable in composite type props, I've never seen composite props with solid hubs. Any information would be greatly appricated!
Thank you, Gerry

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

A LOT less screwing around involved after investing in a single bolt prop adapter?

I wouldn't drill into a prop that didn't have a solid hub.

wetbird

My Feedback: (3)

Thank you ahicks for the quick response! I found this website
http://www.gravesrc.com/DLE_Single_B...0propadapt.htm for anyone else that needs an adapter like this for the composite props.
Thanks again
Gerry

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

I got one of those 4-to-1 adapters for my DLE 30, but ended up not using it cause it added between 1/8-1/4 distance between the spinner backplate and the cowl. But if that's not a concern for you then it should be fine.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Regardless of the hub used, single or muti bolt, I would prefer not to use the APC or Master Airscrew molded props on gassers. They are heavy and in the case of the MA, I have seen several shed a blade in flight with less than acceptable results. While expensive, if I had to use a composite prop such as for water operation, I'd much rather use a real carbon composite prop and these have a solid hub that can be drilled. The 18-8 might be a bit small for the 30. 19- 6 thru 8 seem to be more in line with what is in common use. For a high drag plane like one on floats, I'd start with the 19-6.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

There's an APC 18x8W that works really well on the 30's. I've used it on aerobats from 11 to 13.5lbs. I'd use a 19", APC does offer one if you go direct, but NOBODY stocks it for some reason, and I don't want to try it so bad that I'm willing to pay the freight to get it? I've never seen or heard of an APC coming apart without hitting something really hard.... something I can't say about wood.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Likewise, I have never seen an APC break in the air.

GSK

Had an almost new APC 22 * 10 come apart , almost destoyed my Pica P51. still not repaired that one
Ripped the motor clean out of the aircraft .
Graeme

wetbird

My Feedback: (3)

I have an adapter on order, not sure if I'll use it. The more I think about it, and the more I think about what you said the more I might go with a Xoar Beechwood, I like the idea of carbon composite prop in case the prop picks up water. What I've been reading the DLE 30 break in prop is an 18 x 8 prop, is that right? The float I'm using is a Trident float set from SeaPlaneSuppy. The main float is under the prop and is a bit wider then the fuselage, plus will be about 16 inch forward the prop, so I'm hoping the prop won't pick up too much water to cause damage to a wood prop. The trident float will be mounted on de Havilland Chipmunk, hope to have it flying this spring! Any more input would be appreciated!

chymas

My Feedback: (1)

If you are going to fly gas then step up to a Xoar or Mejzlik. Carbon fiber are much better performing props and worth the investment.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

For water operation, I'd stick with a real carbon prop as suggested by others. Any water going through a wood prop will really tear up the leading edge. There are some brands that are not overly expensive and flying off water you don't have to worry about ground contact damage .... so one should last a very long time.

I broke my (2) DLE 30s in on my flying prop. For one engine on a CUB is it a Xoar 19-6 laminated, and on a YAK it is a Xoar 19-8 laminated.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

If money is an issue why not try an APC 18x8 or x10 first, before investing in carbon fiber? Maybe you'll find it's got enough pull for you. I was using an APC 18x10 with my DLE 30 - good, strong, prop, and not afraid of ground-strikes. Though now I use the Xoar 18x10 - it is more efficient, and great looking, but certainly delicate.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

I just put in a Bowman ring and changed the reed block assembly and gaskets in my DLE 30. I currently have the needles set at LS - 7/8, HS - 1 1/2. I looked at the plug gap - it was about .22 - I opened it a bit to .24. Did get it running (last night) - seems to run well, but seems a little rich, and sputters occasionally. I'm guessing that's probably good, with the new ring. Can anyone comment on needle-settings in my this situation?

wetbird

My Feedback: (3)

Good Morning guys Happy Super Bowl Sunday, Go 49er! Sorry I'm in California.
I wanna thank everyone for your input on what prop to go with, with the DLE 30! I about fell over when I saw the price of Mejzlik Carbon 18 x 8 ($52) I'm retired so I am on a bugget, but too, I think the corbon prop would last forever unless I hit a rock or tree. Because of the price, I might try the Xoar Beechwood prop since the trident float will be under the prop, it's not like having two floats with water splashing into the prop. This is my first time flying this type of float so I don't know what to expect. I was told a 19 x 6 might be better then the 18 x8 for a float plane, but I'm also thinking of the break-in peroid! I wanna make sure to use the right prop, I just don't know! I do know the Master Airscrew Glass Filled 18 x8 I'm returning! Gerry

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Geez, with the cold/variable temps this time of year, I don't know if I'd trust anything said about your needle settings - even if the had your exact engine/plane/prop combo? WAY too many variables....

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Regarding break in, many if not most guys break them in on the prop they plan to run permanently.

Regarding the thought that a 19x6 will work in your application better than the 18x8, I'd agree, if there were a 19x6 available. Without one though, the 18x8W will load the engine similarly, while still providing good take off and vertical performance.

You can try a wood prop, but I wouldn't get a real expensive one to use for this test!

Night Scream

Hi everyone:

I've been encoutering this problem in the past and though it was just me.. but recently this is getting out of hand..

I'm in mid flight doing aerobatics or just flying around and out of the blue the engine dies on me.. after 15-30 flights in the ignition dies without any warning..

Thank fully i haven't had a crash except some minor scracthes [been lucky] but still.

And i've had the ignitions wrapped in heavy density foam to prevent vibration, regular foam. Have placed the ignition in the firewall like it shows and i've seen in many gas planes in the forums and in the field, also have placed the iginiton inside the plane making sure no RF signal interfere's with the other electronics. And i use a 4.8 volt battery just for the ignition, tried a regular switch, heavy duty switch on them as well

I've changed the hall sensor, spark plugs, cleaned the carb rigolously, changed the ressistance that goes in the cap before the spark plug and even bought a carb kit from a lawnmower shop thinking that was it.

It will give me an sputter trying to start but nothing happens.

But if i put a brand new ignition it instantly turns on and it's set for like i set 15-30 flights and again they die.

What's going on?? Not to mention is see that all gas engines using this CM-6 spark plug all ignitions are made by RC Excel?? IS there another brand that sells these iginitions?

Is this a common problem??

captinjohn

Here is another ignition that will work. Also you cab buy about any part for the unit. http://ch-ignitions.com/

Mikecam

No it's not normal. Do you have the plug wire too tight, does the shielding break away from the case? Is the ignition getting cool air?

These will work for you.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...C_Engines.html

This one comes with an extra 10mm cap and hall sensor for $3 more so you can change everything all at once to see if it helps.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...s_Engines.html

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

My DLE 30 is missing at WOT (and mid-range). It's not horrible, but the occasional miss (every five seconds?) Other than that the engine sounds healthy, has a good low idle (sorry, no RPM info). I tried tuning it out today (thinking the HS might be too rich) but no luck. I have the Hobby King ignition on it (the one mentioned above). Any suggestions? Is there a better plug gap to prevent misses? Could it be the ignition itself, or that the 4.8v 4cell NiMH is freshly charged?