ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Mike,
Hating those expensive lessons (how low can you really go....and survive?).

Re: crank runout, betting if it's bent, it'll be pretty obvious? Thinking .002"-.003" measured at the prop driver, but it's been a while since I messed with one. Wouldn't argue with somebody that has more recent experience.

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

Hi you have the prop retaining bolt or nut so to speak and that can bend fairly easy due to impact. The crankshaft itself is another story, Since there just a short snout that pokes it's head out the case from the bearing, which make's it very difficult to bend under the best of circumstances.
However the threaded area can bend in the radius or thread relief, but again is not the end of the world and as a rule can be straightened.
The TIR of the hub shaft and the crankshaft do not always have the same runout,most of the threads are sloppy and I have seen the prop hub run out as far as .008-.009 before on a new engine. Check the actual crankshaft for a true reading not the prop hub shaft.
Anything over .002 warrants some investigation as to why it is that far out, bearings are cheap, replace them with good quality bearings and yes heat will have to be used, that green goop the chinese use is very high heat and a PITA to get loose. Good Luck.

drube

Hi guys, I see in the manual that DLE recommends using Stihl, but it's not available in my area. Poulan is available here but I didn't see any synthetic for after break in. What else can I use?

Thanks

drube

I found a local stihl dealer, thanks any way.

zacharyR

My Feedback: (5)

and there is always this thing called the internet where you can order .. not commenly found products .. i know its a shocker

lol

drube

I prefer to buy locally when I can. I know all about the internet.

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

When you guys replace/upgrade bearings are you refitting the rear one with or without the rubber seals

zacharyR

My Feedback: (5)

i think the seals matters on what bearing you get to replace it with .. but it should have the seals if its OEM but some aftermarket might not have that ..

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

Getting the correct bearings with or without seals or shields is not a problem, just curious as to why the rear bearing has the seals fitted when glow engines dont

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

All glow engine's have a close fit between the crankshaft and the front housing which needs constant oiling where as the gas engine are not built that way. Most are open with a spacer on the crankshaft between the bearing's to set the end play.

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

When you most are open do you mean the bearings have no seals except obviously the front one

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

Most 2 stroke glow engine's won't have seals in the rear bearing's, some of the 4 strokes will.
Gas engines are another story all together, I have had more than my share of them apart and so far the rear bearing always has had the rubber seals, but not all have
seals on the front bearing. If I replace the bearings I always get them with the seals for both front and rear, there is just to much debris then can get in that front bearing W/O them to suite me.

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

I just ordered a DLE-30 and didn't want to read the entire thread. Will I end up needing to replace the DLE carb or is this one better than the rest of DLE"s carbs.?

Chuck

DaleD

You will receive different recommendations based on indevidual experiences. I flew a DLE30 for 2 years on the original carb and then changed to a WT793A because it developed an idle issue. I would suggest running the engine with the DLE carb and make a decision as time and performance goes.

DaleD

kerwin50

I've been running my DLE 30 for 3 years on the orginal carb

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

(3) DLE engines and zero carb problems here in my fleet. No other problems that I have observed in this area.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Strictly an opinion, but I'd say that depends on your patience, and experience with gassers? Personally, I've never replaced a carb. The reality is though, for what they cost, compared to the frustration and lost flying time they can cause, some may find them a good buy?

denney47

My Feedback: (359)

The DLE carbs are fine, I would not change

drube

I'm having a hard time getting my DLE 30 to stay at low idle. I have 2 gal through it so far and changed the plug to a NGK, running a 18x8, am hoping it's just a break in issue. When I blip the throttle it will drop down to low idle but soon after return to a high idle. I don't have a tach yet so I can't tell you the rpm's. Other than that the engine runs great!
Any idea's?

Thanks

DaleD

Sounds like you have a fuel mixture issue. Check for air leaks and if you dont find any give your carb a thorough clean.

DaleD

drube

Thanks Dale. Will do.

drube

When you say fuel mixture, are you talking about the low speed needle adjustment? Or an air leak causing it to run a little lean?

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

drube,

What you describe is a low speed mixture setting. I can't remember for sure whether you have to lean it or richen it. Try leaning it a little at a time, if that doesn't work slow richen it. It won't take much of a change to straighten it out. Maybe someone else can say which direction to go.

Chuck

drube

Thanks chuck, I will give that a try first.

kerwin50

Did you tune then engine to begin with?