Well after reading this tread..... i just get my DLE-30 running in , my first impression was , start easily , 4 filp and here she goes .
Run smoothly ..... have not see any issue yet , trasaction from low to high , smooth , no cogging ....

i put it in my Sebart Sukhoi29s 140 , all up weight 4500g .

Some pic ....

Every person I met so far in Florida likes the DLE30 they bought. I have some nice photos of a couple Airplanes with the DLE 30 engine. It is neat to talk to the people that have run them....in person instead of on a web-page forum!

So I had mine on a test stand, had it WOT for about 5 seconds and heard an odd sound, brought it back to an idle, tried to open er up again and it wouldnt go much past 4K RPMs and sounding like a V8 running on 4 cylinders. Then it died and would only fire but not run again. Pulled the plug(CM6) and noticed some metal filings on the plug. Plug looked good, ignition working, tried the original plug and same thing, only fire not run. Ideas? What should the head bolts be torqued to should I remove for inspection?

You've had a cir-clip or needle go up through the engine

Likely is toast

The answer I did not want to hear Do you think I should open it up, order parts, or send it in for service?

It is definately a warranty issue. Send it in.

All small gas engines I've been involved with that had metal particles in the upper cylinder were a fatal situation. The engine could only be used for a few select spare parts.

These ingestion situations involved

Rod needle bearings
Piston pin retaining circlips
Bearing cages
Small misc parts left in the engine at assembly
Ingestion of foriegn objects through the carburetor which often included the butterfly screws from the throttle shaft.

Captinjohn,

Welcome back and I hope you had a fun and relaxing time on your holiday. You might want to look up a thread that was started pertaining specifically to you in your absence. It's in the gas engine forum. Perhaps w8ye can steer you in the right direction.

Respectfully, I don't like to see anyone having trouble, but most that do didn't know what they were doing to begin with, but will argue to the contrary. That's where most run into their troubles. What I do like to do is point out where problems initiate in an attempt to resolve them. For some that's an excersize in futility but at least an attempt was made.

.

Ohh I'm not arguing that it wasnt my fault, I have no experience with gas motors, which is why I ask for ideas from people that enjoy the hobby like I do and just might have more of a clue than I. Since my intial question, I've talked to my dealer and I'm sending it in. Thanks for your help w8ye.

Sorry, edit "Since my initial question"

Take it easy young Luke Skywalker, no one's pointing a finger at you. Sure hope you get your engine sorted out quickly so that you can begin to enjoy it.

Karol

No no, I'm not in a huff, just saying that yes, odds are, I'm to blame. I dont know what I'm doing and not scared to say, which has gotten me some great answers. Thanks all for the help. Engine has been sent to someone who cant know less than myself and if he does, I'm in trouble.

In recognizing your limitations you remove them Keep asking the questions. Don't be too quick to blame yourself. There are only a few things you could do to generate an internal failure. The rest are warranty related.

I have a Walbro WT 263 carb would this carb be any better than the factory carb, or maybe worse or no big deal at all.

Whats wrong with the factory carb?

Nothing.

I didn't bother to look up the venturi sizing of the 263, but I offer a tip for all. Using a carb too large for an engine will make it impossible to tune one end or the other. You'll be able to get one side, but never the second. A carb that would fit the 30 would not likely have a venturi larger than 13.5mm-14mm. That's stretching it.

Look at the inlet side of your carb. Note the small number stamped onto the inlet. That's the venturi size in 64's of an inch. There are a lot of online conversion charts out there so it's easy to do the math.

Next tip. When you go shopping for a different carb, make sure it has a choke before making the purchase. We've come far enough along not to be sticking our fingers in a carb to choke it. Then again, if using an electric starter a choke isn't necessary. Just takes longer to get the fuel going. I just love spinning a cold engine for up to a minute for the first start of the day. Very little oil remaining from the last time it was run and you're spinning at a couple thousand rpm for a relatively long period.

Nothing, just already had it, and was wondering if it would be better or not?

Only one way to find out.

If it ai'nt broke do'nt fix it. Lots of power.

You probably had it right!!!

Well after returning to this threadf to share my experiences i could not be bothered to read another 20 pages Well mine runs fine starts fine etc. it will die if left idling for too long but simple solution if you are coming in for a landing simply blip the throttle. does not die when tilted. has had around 7 tanks though it 50:1 on Belray H1R oil. im getting 7400rpm with a menz 18x8 on and will be trying a18x10 next chance i get

Received my engine today from Tower, $269.00 shipped with the supersaver discounts. Serial # C03423. The castings, the ports, the ignition, everything looks great and no piston binding. The port edges are crisp and ports themselves are smooth. I flushed the crankcase w/ two stroke mix and it was spotless. I'll run it tomorrow.

Thats a far better report card than your MT got!