DLE30!
04-12-2010 | 12:36 PM
#2301
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From: Ballwin,
MO
RE: NEW DLE30!
Another question - is the rear carb taking care of the issues that had been seen with this engine? I haven't followed this thread, but it sounds like some had done this mod on their own?
So, did a velocity stack not help the situation? I guess not, as it sounds like it was more an issue of excess fuel going into the carb at low speeds?
So, did a velocity stack not help the situation? I guess not, as it sounds like it was more an issue of excess fuel going into the carb at low speeds?
04-12-2010 | 12:45 PM
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From: Speedy Village,
SD
RE: NEW DLE30!
ORIGINAL: jedijody
Here's a picture.
Here's a picture.
Thanks Jk
04-12-2010 | 12:56 PM
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From: springfield,
NJ
RE: NEW DLE30!
just a follow up from my last post months ago when I said I wouldn't post to this thread anymore until I got a chance to maiden mine in the air and get it set up for actual flying.
This engine runs fine.
Never inspected it for SPS, never did a thing to it other than run a few tanks thru it on a stand when I did experience some difficulties maintaining an idle and chased the needles around a bit.
Now that it's in a plane it runs fine. With the engine exposed and no cowl on it the prop wash tends to siphon fuel out of the carb making for a little bit of a problem setting the needles as the amount being siphoned isn't consistent.
Found this out as I set the plane up with no cowl on ran fine until I mounted the cowl.
All of a sudden it ran extremely rich. Took the cowl back off to play with the settings again and that's when I noticed the fuel siphoning.
Ended up having to cut a hole in the top of the cowl in order to set the needles right in a cowl on condition.
That being said, so far it runs fine and unless I put myself in a condition of one of my wing tips pointing at the ground on a slow approach so that it's also at an idle, I don't think the tip and engine stall problem should ever really crop up.
Looking for the next airframe so i can get another.............
This engine runs fine.
Never inspected it for SPS, never did a thing to it other than run a few tanks thru it on a stand when I did experience some difficulties maintaining an idle and chased the needles around a bit.
Now that it's in a plane it runs fine. With the engine exposed and no cowl on it the prop wash tends to siphon fuel out of the carb making for a little bit of a problem setting the needles as the amount being siphoned isn't consistent.
Found this out as I set the plane up with no cowl on ran fine until I mounted the cowl.
All of a sudden it ran extremely rich. Took the cowl back off to play with the settings again and that's when I noticed the fuel siphoning.
Ended up having to cut a hole in the top of the cowl in order to set the needles right in a cowl on condition.
That being said, so far it runs fine and unless I put myself in a condition of one of my wing tips pointing at the ground on a slow approach so that it's also at an idle, I don't think the tip and engine stall problem should ever really crop up.
Looking for the next airframe so i can get another.............
04-12-2010 | 02:01 PM
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From: Tres Cantos, SPAIN
RE: NEW DLE30!
ORIGINAL: FOOPED
Jody could you please post what kind of spark plug will replace the torch used on the CRRC 26cc engines. Thanks Don
Jody could you please post what kind of spark plug will replace the torch used on the CRRC 26cc engines. Thanks Don
Sorry, Jody, i can't resist to answer .....
04-12-2010 | 03:13 PM
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From: Romeo, MI
RE: NEW DLE30!
I'm using a very slow dialup connection, and it would take me weeks to go through this whole thread. So please excuse me if this question has already been answered a zillion times...
What does SPS stand for, and what exactly is the problem concerning it?
I really would like to get one of these engines some day, but not if there are fixes in the works.
Thank You,
Mark
What does SPS stand for, and what exactly is the problem concerning it?
I really would like to get one of these engines some day, but not if there are fixes in the works.
Thank You,
Mark
04-12-2010 | 03:43 PM
#2306
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RE: NEW DLE30!
Shiney piston syndrome. If you're engine runs fine, and it should, don't fret the terminology. A whole lot of mountain was made out of a grain of sand.
Finally, the rear carb mounting took care of the "tilted plane on the ground" idle issue. It appears that people can hold the plane any way they want to now with no concern of the engine quitting. Never did do it in the air but doing it while standing on a wingtip in contact with the ground had a few people really upset.
Finally, the rear carb mounting took care of the "tilted plane on the ground" idle issue. It appears that people can hold the plane any way they want to now with no concern of the engine quitting. Never did do it in the air but doing it while standing on a wingtip in contact with the ground had a few people really upset.
04-12-2010 | 07:55 PM
#2312
RE: NEW DLE30!
Toledo was fun, met many people that knew me from the forums, always fun to put faces to names. Spent two full days with Tomy Shen, super great guy and very eager to put things together that best suits his customers needs. Attendence seemed lower that previous years but it was still plenty busy.
04-12-2010 | 07:57 PM
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From: Romeo, MI
RE: NEW DLE30!
Thanks for the reply T.O.M.
I actually need the side mounted carb for my application. I plan on putting it on an 80" profile Edge, and the firewall would be too far back with the rear mounted carb (further than I want it anyway).
The main thing I'm concerned with is that I wouldn't want it to die on me in a spin, or when I'm coming in for a landing. I'm a terrible lander, and some times it takes me a dozen times around to get it right. So I definitely wouldn't want it quitting on me on a bad landing attempt lol.
If I understand you correctly though, you are saying that the "engine quitting when tilting a wing tip", or in situations like I list above, only effected a small percentage of the engines sold? And even those may have been blown way out of proportion?
Mark
I actually need the side mounted carb for my application. I plan on putting it on an 80" profile Edge, and the firewall would be too far back with the rear mounted carb (further than I want it anyway).
The main thing I'm concerned with is that I wouldn't want it to die on me in a spin, or when I'm coming in for a landing. I'm a terrible lander, and some times it takes me a dozen times around to get it right. So I definitely wouldn't want it quitting on me on a bad landing attempt lol.
If I understand you correctly though, you are saying that the "engine quitting when tilting a wing tip", or in situations like I list above, only effected a small percentage of the engines sold? And even those may have been blown way out of proportion?
Mark
04-12-2010 | 08:00 PM
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From: Newberg, OR
RE: NEW DLE30!
I'm sure my answer is somewhere in these 89 pages of post but can someone help me out with my DLE 30. I have it running good with the choke open and throttle transition seems to very close but when I close the choke it dies on me every time. I turned the carb 180 and as far as I can tell everything lines up. I only have maybe half a tank thru the motor at this point. Any ideas? Thanks!
04-12-2010 | 08:09 PM
#2315
RE: NEW DLE30!
I think you may have the description of your choke backwards, it should die when you close it. Did you rotate the black plastic insulator with your carb, if so, that is likely the problem. The insulator and it's gasket must remain in the OEM position or it will not be able to pump fuel.
04-12-2010 | 08:21 PM
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From: Newberg, OR
RE: NEW DLE30!
Well that would make since(dummy me!). So when the butterfly is open, the choke is off. When I close the butterfly the choke is on. I have rotated the plastic insulator and gasket a couple of times I'm not really sure what the OEM position is anymore. 
Thanks Jody!
Thanks Jody!
04-12-2010 | 11:08 PM
#2318
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RE: NEW DLE30!
My perception of the "tilt and die" issue placed most of them with engines that were not fully broke in and many that were run in some pretty cold climates. Where the two combined, issues were almost certain to occur. Small gassers don't like being cold at all. There was, and is, a home performed method of cleaning up the induction path on the side carb engines. Jedijody would be the best source of info on that.
Some of the engines were assembled with a little less attention to parts fit than there could have been. That was the primary source of the "SPS" condition. When cylinders were assembled pushed to one side of the base plate bolt hole the piston would ride pretty hard on one side of the cylinder. That was also a contributing factor to the "tilt and die" engines. The solution to that was simple. Loosen the cylinder screws and loosen the crear case screws. Assure alignment of the case halves and tighten the case screws. Remove the cylinder screws completely, and holding the cylinder over the case with the piston still fit inside the cylinder, rotate the prop hub and slide the cylinder back down onto the case, feeling for the least amount of friction with piston motion. Put the cylinder screws back in and tighten them to 35-40 inch pounds.
Of most importance is the break in. It's not broke in until the idle holds smooth and steady. Takes a looong time.
Some of the engines were assembled with a little less attention to parts fit than there could have been. That was the primary source of the "SPS" condition. When cylinders were assembled pushed to one side of the base plate bolt hole the piston would ride pretty hard on one side of the cylinder. That was also a contributing factor to the "tilt and die" engines. The solution to that was simple. Loosen the cylinder screws and loosen the crear case screws. Assure alignment of the case halves and tighten the case screws. Remove the cylinder screws completely, and holding the cylinder over the case with the piston still fit inside the cylinder, rotate the prop hub and slide the cylinder back down onto the case, feeling for the least amount of friction with piston motion. Put the cylinder screws back in and tighten them to 35-40 inch pounds.
Of most importance is the break in. It's not broke in until the idle holds smooth and steady. Takes a looong time.
04-13-2010 | 12:17 AM
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From: Riverton,
WY
RE: NEW DLE30!
ORIGINAL: Tired Old Man
My perception of the ''tilt and die'' issue placed most of them with engines that were not fully broke in and many that were run in some pretty cold climates. Where the two combined, issues were almost certain to occur. Small gassers don't like being cold at all. There was, and is, a home performed method of cleaning up the induction path on the side carb engines. Jedijody would be the best source of info on that.
Some of the engines were assembled with a little less attention to parts fit than there could have been. That was the primary source of the ''SPS'' condition. When cylinders were assembled pushed to one side of the base plate bolt hole the piston would ride pretty hard on one side of the cylinder. That was also a contributing factor to the ''tilt and die'' engines. The solution to that was simple. Loosen the cylinder screws and loosen the crear case screws. Assure alignment of the case halves and tighten the case screws. Remove the cylinder screws completely, and holding the cylinder over the case with the piston still fit inside the cylinder, rotate the prop hub and slide the cylinder back down onto the case, feeling for the least amount of friction with piston motion. Put the cylinder screws back in and tighten them to 35-40 inch pounds.
Of most importance is the break in. It's not broke in until the idle holds smooth and steady. Takes a looong time.
My perception of the ''tilt and die'' issue placed most of them with engines that were not fully broke in and many that were run in some pretty cold climates. Where the two combined, issues were almost certain to occur. Small gassers don't like being cold at all. There was, and is, a home performed method of cleaning up the induction path on the side carb engines. Jedijody would be the best source of info on that.
Some of the engines were assembled with a little less attention to parts fit than there could have been. That was the primary source of the ''SPS'' condition. When cylinders were assembled pushed to one side of the base plate bolt hole the piston would ride pretty hard on one side of the cylinder. That was also a contributing factor to the ''tilt and die'' engines. The solution to that was simple. Loosen the cylinder screws and loosen the crear case screws. Assure alignment of the case halves and tighten the case screws. Remove the cylinder screws completely, and holding the cylinder over the case with the piston still fit inside the cylinder, rotate the prop hub and slide the cylinder back down onto the case, feeling for the least amount of friction with piston motion. Put the cylinder screws back in and tighten them to 35-40 inch pounds.
Of most importance is the break in. It's not broke in until the idle holds smooth and steady. Takes a looong time.
BCCHI
04-13-2010 | 09:54 AM
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From: Romeo, MI
RE: NEW DLE30!
Thanks for the detailed description of the SPS problem T.O.M.
Is that case fit something that can detected just by turning the crank, or would it be adviseable to take it apart, and check it out? Just to be sure.
Mark
Is that case fit something that can detected just by turning the crank, or would it be adviseable to take it apart, and check it out? Just to be sure.
Mark
04-13-2010 | 10:53 AM
#2322
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RE: NEW DLE30!
You can feel it when it's present. Rough friction when turning over by hand. Again, this is something that will eventually take care of itself during the break in but things go faster if that's out of the way.
I really didn't want to bring it up again because people get all panicky when they read about it, and if they have little or no gas engine experience they don't know what anything should feel like and start building another mountain from that same grain of sand. It geos out of control quite rapidly. A "sky is falling" syndrome if you will.
I really didn't want to bring it up again because people get all panicky when they read about it, and if they have little or no gas engine experience they don't know what anything should feel like and start building another mountain from that same grain of sand. It geos out of control quite rapidly. A "sky is falling" syndrome if you will.
04-13-2010 | 11:26 AM
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From: Romeo, MI
RE: NEW DLE30!
Thanks again for the reply T.O.M.
I can see why you were reluctant to bring it up again. But I appreciate you explaining it in detail for my benefit one more time.
I've been on RCU long enough to know how quickly things can get overblown, and always take everything said with a grain of salt (whatever that means?).
Mark
I can see why you were reluctant to bring it up again. But I appreciate you explaining it in detail for my benefit one more time.
I've been on RCU long enough to know how quickly things can get overblown, and always take everything said with a grain of salt (whatever that means?).
Mark
04-13-2010 | 11:46 AM
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From: Ballwin,
MO
RE: NEW DLE30!
I have one I'm looking to get started today or tomorrow. Can anyone give me any last minute tips on how to start and break in this new engine?
I can appreciate your stance that people are making mountains out of mole hills - but I'm just hoping I'm not going to find out that where there's smoke there's fire
I can appreciate your stance that people are making mountains out of mole hills - but I'm just hoping I'm not going to find out that where there's smoke there's fire
04-13-2010 | 12:02 PM
#2325
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RE: NEW DLE30!
Set the carb needles to 1-1/2 open. Choke and flip with the ignition on, throttle stick closed, throttle trim up about 1/2. That presumes the throttle linkage is set up with lengths and throws that achieve full open and full closed at end point stick travels with no servo binding.
Flip the prop till the engine "pops. Then choke off, ignition still on, don't change the throttle position. Flip till it starts.
Run the engine up to a high idle and let it warm up for a couple of minutes. No peak rpm running until it warms up.
After warm up start the tuning process. Once tuned for best performance, go fly "normal" aerobatics or "sport" type flying for about 5 hours or a little more. No 3d hovering, torque rolls, or extended vertical lines. You want normal heat cycling without getting the engine too hot or too cold.
Flip the prop till the engine "pops. Then choke off, ignition still on, don't change the throttle position. Flip till it starts.
Run the engine up to a high idle and let it warm up for a couple of minutes. No peak rpm running until it warms up.
After warm up start the tuning process. Once tuned for best performance, go fly "normal" aerobatics or "sport" type flying for about 5 hours or a little more. No 3d hovering, torque rolls, or extended vertical lines. You want normal heat cycling without getting the engine too hot or too cold.
