I have this http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFU91&P=SM that I'm looking at putting on my DL50. I'm only needing about 6 inches of it. Will this hold up and not flex to much? If not what is the best thing to use for a gasser throttle? Thanks.

I use the Sullivan in the white sheath with the black pushrod.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XFV42&P=SM

If the throttle arm on the carb is metal, do not use a metal clevis. Metal-to-metal contact could cause radio interference. I would suggest a ball link on the throttle arm. As for the push rod, what you have would probably work OK.

the DL comes with a fiber glass control arm that you put on the metal carb arm to make it longer, will this work with a metal clevis?

I've also had good luck using these rods

If there is no metal-to-metal contact, there probabaly won't be any RF interference problems. I still like ball links on the throttle arm because addition to having not metal-to-metal, they can stand a little misalignment and seem to me to stay slop free longer. Just my preference, the clevis would probably work just fine as well.

I use sullivan all the time on my gassers. And connect using either a snap on ball joint or plastic clevis. Never have linkage problems.
Edwin

Some pics. We will not go into the debate about how carbon rods might generate rfi. Take a real close look at the installation before you go in that direction. All my planes use similar installations, all using 72mhz radios. If you use a product that can flex, it eventually will, at the worst possible time.

Im with TOM, BJ to BJ link is the way to go

I've seen 3 snap on ball joints loosen and pop off with in the last 3 months. They were all planes that had a lot of flights on them. Vibration will wear them out after time. I'm not saying it will happen 100% of the time, but it's something to watch for.
I use a set up like T.O.M has pictured

Don't use snap on ball links, always bolt on. Even the bolt on types should be checked perodically for wear, and using a flat washer over the top of the ball, under the bolt, adds an extra layer of security.

I'd say go with the majority in this case. Only two of my planes have run the snap on ball links. Not enough experience to defend it. And it obviousely doenst have any defense. I'm not nieve enough to think, just because I havent had one pop off that it wont happen some day.
Edwin

Ok I decided to go the to LHS and see what they had for ball links and this is what I got http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK097&P=0 I decided to use these instead of the metal clevis that I had. Can I use a piece of all tread and just put a ball link on each end and still be safe, Or should I just use the sullivan flex rod I have? Thanks for all you help.

A length of threaded rod would promote "RF" . It is best to use something non metallic for anything other than just the connecting interface

If you're talking a rigid push rod, run CF tubing over the threaded rod just like TOM does in his pic. If you need to run it a distance without a clean shot between the servo and carb then run the flex rod in the sheath. I use the stuff w8ye showed in post #2. I love the stuff. Works great.

I thought so , I saw a pic where a guy used a metal push rod with ball links , I was'nt sure being the metal rod was'nt touching any metal if it would cause "RF". I'll Use the sullivan flex line I have, Thanks

A longer length of metal rod will become sympathetic with any RF within any harmonic frequency range and retransmit the RF especially in odd harmonics like 3rd and 5th.

If you want to get fancy you can obtain threaded ends for carbon and fiberglass rods. Central Hobbies is a good source for those. Although I agree with w8ye about the harmonics, it's very difficult for that to be transmitted if the is a non conductive break in both ends of the rod. Simply useing a metal rod is bad because they are extremely flexible and vibrate quite badly with engine rpm. Using straight threaded rod is absolutely terrible since it is brittle due to threading and will snap quite easily when subjected to engine vibration.

For throttle linkage, I prefer the most rigid material I can find to avoid "thermal creep". Many of the flexible rods change dimensions with an incease in temperatures, changing throttle trims and end points. If you have to route a throttle control around anything you're stuck with a flexible arrangement. With large gassers that is rarely a requirement.

I use a metal rod with ball links on each end and have 72mhz electronics. Based on personal experience and the experiences of others at the field, I'm comfortable with this setup on my gassers. I used Sullivan rods on glow before but experienced the thermal creep described by TOM. Ended up going with metal pushrods and ball links on those as well.

Dan

Here's mine.

I like that spring. Absorbs vibrations. Cool.

go right to TBM models and get a throttle conversion arm they sell.If the carb is a walbro this item will make your set up headache free.Plus you use a nyrod with it and there can be no chance of interence whatsoever, cost me 10.00 but well worth it and comes in a size for small gas like my g26 or a big one like a Da 50 ..