Yes DA headers fit a DL/DLE

Properly adjusted DL twins have very little midrange burble, don't leave it rich on the ground thinking it will lean out in the air. Adjust the high for peak and the low for the best, leanest, transition. Properly adjusted, a cold DL twin will not accept much throttle without presenting a lean sag until it runs and warms up for 30-45 seconds. If you need to turn the either needle more than about about 3/16th of a turn you should revisit the other needle, there is a bit more overlap in the Emas carb than on a walbro.

How did I miss this, you just want my spark plug. I new you were secretly a closet stock DL plug worshiper.

Hey Jodi,

Thanks for the reply and the information. I do need to let the engine warm up and even after 30-40 seconds, it won't accept throttle without leaning out. I will lean out the low end more as you suggest. I have my second tank using Red Line oil also as you suggested. I will try more lean setting tomorrow.

Jodi, Maybe when I advance the throttle after the initial start, the reason it won't advance is because it's too rich and not too lean. Can you give me a educated guess on how far out the low mixture setting should be....I know a lot of different things come into play but I would think that most ems carbs in a dry climate should be about the same.

I'm confused by your description of running rich on the ground. With the Emas carb the high speed needle has an effect in the midrange as well, hence my comment on the overlap effects of the mixture needle adjustments. Depnding on the application and installation you could be experiencing a pressurization of the metering diaphragm but I've never seen this be an issue with this carb, mine has the metering diaphragm cover facing forward and gets the prop wash full force on the cover.

I guess what I am saying is....I think the engine is running rich on the ground because it is stumbling when I advance the throttle, if its a slow advance like in a takeoff. When I reach full throttle its runs great but then starts to burble at half throttle. The burble occurs both on the ground and in the air so at this point, I assume both my low and high setting are on the rich side. I removed the lower baffle on my lanier yak54 and thought this would help the air flow and it does as far as engine temp is concerned. I know that my lack of understanding the carb setting is having a great impact on the way the engine is running but I will keep trying to get it right.

I guess this could be possible, typical low needle setting would be +/- 1 to 1-1/4, the latter would be kind of a rich setting. After the engine has been warmed up you should be able to adjust the acceleration stumble out so it's clean, recheck the high speed and be very close. Flight performance may dictate some minor fine tuning but very little.

I just checked my low setting and it's 1 1/4 open and my high is about the samel. Tomorrow I will move the low to 1 turn open and leave the high where it is now. That should make a difference. Don't you think?????

It will.

I pulled the plugs today and the left plug is wet and black and the right plug is brown and dry. I have attached pic but not sure they show the difference. I assume the wet plug is running cooler and hope someone can tell me why. The pic with the cyclinder is the left plug.

Rotational influences from the crankshaft always cause more fuel to get pumped into one cylinder than the other on twins with shared crankcases, as with the DL, it's the front cylinder. The pictures of the plugs are not very clear but the front cylinder will always look a littlle richer than the rear one. Because of the richer running and slightly cooler temps, that cylinder takes a little longer to seat rings as well.

You have to hold the plug really still when you take those pic's or they turn out blurry like that. You could use a mini tripod and let the timer take the pic. I just set the plug down somewhere...put my camera on manual focus...and dial the focus as close as possible. You can get some good close-up pic's but they take a little effort.

Here's three different pic's of the same plug. I think it was my DLE-55. The first one was the clearest. The lighting and shot angle can effect the color that the plug looks. That middle one's a little blury. To the human eye this plug had a beautiful light chocolate color to it. The engine was running t!ts.

In my opinion, if your engine was not doing this on previous flights and began doing this recently, I would check fuel tank fuel line for hardness. Replace them every two years because they will harden and will not follow the fuel when rolling or inverted. Don't put the pickup too close to the back of the tank. Also check all of the lines for micro cracks. When engines quit during flat spin manuevers. that can be because of overheating. Putting in baffles solves this problem. If you do not baffle the engine, you will have to richen the engine more than usual to counteract the heating.

I know I am stressing over something where the fix is pretty simple. I now have 10 flights on the engine and plane and the first 7 flights were perfect. Engine ran great and on the 8th flight it quit while flying and I haven't been able to get the mid-range where it is smooth. Great idle and top end but middle sucks. JediJody has been a great help and I intend to lean the engine out even more tomorrow. I just thought the plugs would tell me more about what's going on. Since this is my first twin, I am being a little careful about it overheating.

I am starting to wonder if you have the problem with sealant coming loose off of the welsh plug and causing havoc. If you do a search on it lots of info should come up.

All the fuel lines are good, but I don't know about the welsh plug. If I can't get the engine running smooth, I will send it to Valley View and let Jody fix it. Thanks for all the information and suggestions.

The symptoms aren't representative of the sealant issue, that would be a chronic lean presentation. Don't get impatient or frustrated, I can imagine how apprehensive you must feel wanting to make adjustments but not sure which ones to make or if they will help or hurt something. You are doing fine so far and I feel progress is imminent, everything seems to point to a rich low end needle and if one is not that experienced with adjusting these carbs, going slow and in small increments is much better than the opposite or you could chase it for a much longer period of time. It's also very common for engines to communicate that they want some attention after a few flights as parts are starting to lap themselves together. So far I haven't heard anything that would cause me any kind of alarm. Keep at it.

Jody, Thanks again for the assurance and I will keep plugging along at a slow pace. I really do think its a rich setting and will work on it again tomorrow and I'm sure I can get the engine running smoothly as it shour be. I will report my progress tomorrow afternoon or evening.

Well, I think I have my DL100 set on the low and high end. NO hesitation and smooth run from low to high. The mid range, where I was having a problem was smooth today. This is all a ground test and I will fly tomorrow morning and see how these setting work. I have the low set at just under 1 full turn open and the high a little over 1 turn. The idle is about 1550 and high 6200 so hopeful this will be the correct setting. If not, then will keep tuning until its perfect.

Well done! I knew you would get it. Only thing I hope you have done is make sure that the peak RPM will drop slightly if you richen the high needle about 1/8 turn. The just over 1 turn setting description is a tiny bit leaner than I normally see but it could be correct in your application, the RPMs are what I would expect though. Time to fly!

I will open a little (1/8) after I fly tomorrow and check the difference. I didn't do that today so I will keep an eye on it when I fly. Thanks for all the help and I'll be posting more results tomorrow.

AS far as mid-range is concerned, there is a carb jet that controls the midrange. If that jet is clogged, your midrange will suffer. I had one engine expert fix an engines mid range right there at the field using a techique where the engine was brought up to full speed, then the choke was applied fully, and just before the engine quit from the choke, the choke lever was then opened and the engine regained its full power. This was repeated four to five times, then flown. The engines midrange problem was then fixed. The guy told me that the back-flush of fuel will often times clean this jet without having to disassemble the carb and cleaning it. Be very careful during this procedure, Be sure the plane is held by another person and you can only do this safely if you have a choke extension which keeps your fingers well away from the propellor arc.

corry, thanks for the tip and its something to keep in mind...its something I would have never thought of doing but seems like it would work.

Not something I would do, some engines could suck enough fuel into themselves to hydrolicly lock and cause damage. I would worry about a DA shearing its aluminum head bolts and blowing a jug clean off.