I have the same combo , bu tmy prox is blue.

I didn't go with the blue cause it tends not to stand out as easily seen as the other.
But, it's good we have a choice!

your right, but the O.S. is heavier and need a larger Tanks, meaning total weight is up with O.S. bin there, tried that.

MSC, Where did you find the plans for the 30cc size Twist? The link would be great. Thanks. Bob

here is the link to the forum thread:
<a href="http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1032106">http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1032106
</a>
Here is the link to post#44 - the 30cc plans:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...p;postcount=44

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DLE 20 wont stop running. changed the fuel line out, took the carb off to make sure throttle plate was closing and it is. Open throttle up then back down to idle engine wont shut off when throttle is fully closed. Any ideas? And yes idle screw is removed.

Use an Opti-Kill on it. Then just turn the engine off with a transmitter switch. You should really have that any way. Last weekend I had the throttle servo die (Hitech 5485) and my PT-17 was stuck at 1/4 throttle. I made my final approach and switched the engine off and floated in.

will185 \ SpinnerRow - I've noticed the same thing with this DLE 20 - I can't seem to kill it with the throttle control alone. And I've also confirmed that the throttle plate is seating correctly. Must be some other air\fuel leak in there? Does anyone know if this carb is designed this way? Seems odd. But, as Spinnerrow states, I use an Opti-kill swtch or a servo-controlled choke to kill it (depending on the plane). Haven't tried to kill my DLE 30 with throttle control yet - will have to test that next time out.

There is a small hole in the throttle blade. This little motor idles low enough that it might be getting enough air to idle if you have a heavy prop like an APC on it. Some people put silicone over that hole so that the engine will choke faster but I've left my two DLE 20s alone and use an optikill.

will 185/SpinnerRow/microdon2 -Have a look at the literature below, especially the bottom bit which is highlighted. Hope this helps.

Informatipn found in a post on the DA85 thread right here on RCU.

DaleD

<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, Arial; -webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 1px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 1px; "><font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">Walbro Carb TUNE UP &amp; Illustrated Guide</font>

<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">Walbro carbs aren't too difficult to tune up if you know what you're doing. First of all, you need to know how the carb works and how the settings interact with each other. About 95% of all the gas airplanes I've seen at the field are somewhat out of tune. How can I tell this? Simple, at some point the engines "four cycle" in flight. Two Cycle engines are not supposed to "four cycle" PERIOD. This is caused by a rich mixture that is forcing the sparkplug to intermittantly miss making it sound like a four stroke. This is not good. HOWEVER the good news is; gasoline two stroke engines are very very tollerant of rich settings (most of the time) and will run fine. You'll just consume a little more gasoline than necessary, and create a little more oil mess on your plane. You may eventually foul your spark plug as well. So why do so many people leave their engines tuned like this? Simple answer, the engine will start much easier when it's cold AND there's little or no warm up time needed prior to flying. Those are pretty good reasons! But the fact is... the engine is not running like it's supposed to.</font>
<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">LET'S BEGIN:</font>
<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">All Walbro carbs have their own fuel pump, a needle &amp; seat controlled by a float diaphragm, a highend and lowend needle set, and some have chokes, some don't. There are so many variations of Walbro carbs, it's ridiculous. I will restrict this editorial to the more common carbs found on airplane gasoline engines. This will include the WA, WB, WG, WT, WL, WS, WTL and a few others. While there's a substancial difference in these carbs, they share a common tune-up procedure.</font>
<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">FIRST and foremost, you need to know how the carb works and how the settings affect the running. Then you also need to know how to make the adjustments. You also need to know what is a correct tune, and what isn't. After that, it's free sailing!</font>
<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">Before you make any adjustments, you need to consider what's really going on and what part of the carb is being used at that time. There are a lot of functions going on within the carb and one or more functions can make the carb act strange. What could sound like a rich lowend needle setting could actually, and easily be a float setting on the needle &amp; seat! A stiff diaphragm will make it run rich too. It could also make it run lean. The highend and lowend needles interact throughout the entire throttle range. So if you adjust one needle, you will likely need to adjust the other.</font>
<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">Let's begin with looking at the components of the carb:</font>


<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">Typical PROBLEMS POSSIBLE solutions</font>
<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">The engine stalls when accellerated Highend needle way too lean, or lowend needle slightly lean</font>
<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">Four strokes as fast idle, mid RPM Lowend needle too rich, float diaphragm needle lever slightly too high</font>
<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">Engine goes lean in flight Highend needle slightly lean AND lowend needle is rich, float needle lever may be set too low</font>
<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">Engine goes rich in flight this is a special problem with cowled in engines. the float diaphragm cover vent will need work (SEE NOTE 1)</font>
<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">Engine runs good, but no idle at all There's crap in the idle jets, the carb will have to be removed and cleaned. You may also have an air leak at the base of the carb. The throttle butterfly could be damaged or worn out.</font>
<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">carb leaks fuel when not running float needle is bad or has crap stuck in it, or the float lever setting may be too high, or the float diaphragm is bad.</font>
<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">My engine four cycles momentarily when I back off the throttle, then runs normal This is perfectly normal for carbs NOT equipped with a "check valve" highspeed jet. If you do have the check valve, then your float needle setting is slightly too high, or your float needle is leaking a little.(SEE NOTE 2)</font>
<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">the fuel leaks back into the gas tank when it isn't running Bad fuel pump membrane, or an air leak in the fuel line at the carb</font>

<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">NOTE 1:</font>
<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">A very common problem with cowled in engines is, the air pressure in flight changes the "natural" pressure on the float diaphragm. This causes the engine to run rich in flight. There are several possible fixes available. Most of the time you can simply tune your engine for flight by trial &amp; error. However, the easiest fix is to open up the cowling around the carb area to lower the air pressure. You may also rotate the cover to different positions to see if that works. The "BEST" fix is to solder a piece of brass tubing where the vent is, and route the vent line to a better location. I normally route it into the</font>fuse<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">going through the firewall. It works perfectly every time! Plus, your ground tune doesn't change in flight!</font>

<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">NOTE 2</font>
<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">Carbs equipped with the highspeed check valve are greatly superior for flying aerobatics, or flying whereby the throttle will be used extensively. The check valve prevents jet dripping when you back off the throttle. That's all it does...</font>
<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">Straight through (non-check valved) jets always drip a little fuel while the throttle is being backed off, and causes a momentary four stroking of the engine until the jet stabilizes to the new air flow rate. This is completly normal.</font>
<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">Converting a Walbro carb from gasoline to methanol:</font>
<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">Most Walbro carbs will tollerate methanol without modification as long as you keep the nitro content low, less than 10%. If it doesn't tune properly, some modifications will be necessary. The fuel flow rate within the carb will have to be increased The float needle &amp; seat needs work first. Bore out the seat 25% larger than its existing size and raise the float lever up about .040 inch. Try the carb out. If it still doesn't take a steady tune, then bore out the lowend &amp; highend needle orifaces 25% larger than its original size. This should do the job. The flow-rate of methanol is much higher than gasoline.</font>



<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">* * * SPECIAL NOTES * * *</font>
<font size="7" style="font-size: 13px; ">(1) I would like to note at this time, that a properly tuned bottom-end will not "kill" the engine when the carb is pulled to 100% closed. This is typical for Walbro's as most (but not all) Walbro's have an air-bleed notch or vent hole in the butterfly. You can solder the vent closed if you want carb kill capability.</font>
<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">(2) The diaphragm (needle &amp; seat) setting is critical. If you are not familiar with this setting, leave it alone!</font>
<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">(3) I would also like to cover two other possibilities that would make your carb "APPEAR" to be out of tune. One is carb size. If the carb is too big for the prop/engine combination, it will not tune up properly and be erratic and un-reliable. The other is engine timing! IF your timing is too low it will make the carb appear out of tune! This is often over-looked and will cause you to tinker with the carb and you'll never get it running right. I've found that 30 to 32 degrees works best for bigger carbs and or bigger props.</font>
<font class="Apple-style-span" size="2">Copyright &copy; 2007 M. B. Fuess</font></span>
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DaleD - thanks for your post - very informative and helpful. Next time I have my DLE carbs off I'll be soldering those carb-plate holes closed.

Engine was running fine , have 20 flights on it. Hit throttle kill and it would shut off. Engine is tuned correctly. Why would it just all of the sudden start to not shut off and then stay at high idle. I dont really think throttle kill is the answer as it idles way to high when completely closed,and im not going to dead stick it every time or have to hold the plane after i start it just so it doesnt taxi on me. There has to be some other problem. Like i said it runs fine and it wasnt doing this the first 20 flights.

will185 - sounds like the throttle plate came loose. Have you re-checked it?

Link to source post with illustrations: http://tech.flygsw.org/walbro_tuneup.htm

The engine was bought new from a major supplier, It's mounted on a PT-17 biplane and it has never nosed over or had a crash. I do use a starter on occaison to start it, and I thought maybe I did it some how with it. I have a tru turn prop hub which extends out beyond the prop hub about 1-1/4, so I could get some leverage on the end of the crank . I just happen to notice one day that it seemed out of round when ideling. The original crank is not all that bad in terms of the overall machining but it is more rough looking than the replacement, the pictures are not as clear in showing that. It coud be that the original never was heat treated correctly and so I bent it with the starter being off centered some? I have another dle on my ryan and so far no problem, both engines run great and the power is excellent even with a bent crank I would not hesitate to buy another, I'm done with glow for my bigger planes. It only took about 45 min to replace the crank and it was only $25

How slow will your DLE-20 idle ? MY DLE-20 engine wont shut off when throttle is fully closed but it will idle slower than is needs to keep the airplane from moveing.

I will need to get a ProX260 QB it looks like it is best airplane for the DLE-20 Wing Span 56"
Wing Area 952 Sq. In.
Fuse Length 56"
Weight 6.5 – 7 lbs (ready to fly)
Engine .61 - .90 Glow
Engine DLE20cc Gas
My .40 Twist has only Wing Area 747 Sq. In.
and it Weight 7 lbs (ready to fly)

Thanks for the link. Bob

Thanks for the feedback to my query guys, answered what I needed to know, much appreciated!

Best overall....maybe/maybe not, depends on your flying style.
Best profile for 3D w/DLE20.....yes!!!
OMP has some good choices as well.

Mine weighs in at 7 lbs AUW.
(My H9-Twist 150 is 8 lbs.)

More detailed info on those of us who have done an AW PROX260 Freestyle 60-90 size are here...

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10..._1/key_/tm.htm

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10615155

Possibly it is thoroughly broken in now. That can make all the difference in the world.

Ernie

Wonder how it might fly with an extra 112 sq in of wing area?

Granted, at that weight and wing area 17 inch ounce is nicer than most full fuse planes at mid 20's and up for wing loading..

The extra 112 square inches would bring it down to about 15.

When I converted my Slide 58 with those extra 112 squares from Saito 100 to DLE-20 it went from like 13 in/oz wing loading to that 15. The change was noticeable but manageable. I still enjoy running the gas but when it comes to a good flying plane the wing loading figures in for sure in my book.

Currently working on a 20cc specific design that can take full advantage of the engine's abilities...The proto has 13 inch oz of wing loading.

Now for the let down... you gotta build it...

Good to see you join in Richard!!!

If your referring to my AW PROX260 (90 size), I consider that to be an absolutely perfect match for this DLE20cc gasser at 7 lbs AUW!

If you're referring to my H9 Twist 150 w/DLE20cc, then I'd agree with ya on wing loading, still it's manageable and flies well, just slightly less so than the AW PROX when compared one -to- the other.

Now, imagine the wing loading and stability issues for those stuffing a DLE20cc into the smaller H9 Twists (60 size and 40 size)??

Now add in the structural weakness ALL 3 sizes have, where they often break just behind the canopy & above the wing bolt areas.
Unless properly reinforced, ya end up with a broke fuse sometimes.[&o]

At some point, someone will probably bolt one of these onto a pizza box.[&:]

Not to sound like a broken record, but if you want something that is not a slab, the Velox is a perfect DLE-20 plane.

DLE 20 w/13in/oz, that sounds like a pretty good plan to me. I used to build everything, so not intimidated faced with the option of building to get something that sounds like fun. I'm a lot better builder than I am a flyer anyway. Plus, nobody is going to show up at the field with a twin to mine. Please post when you get it ready!