I'm totally new to gas motors, and running one of these DLE20's in a 65" H9 mustang, and are wondering if these motors are killed at the end of the flight in the same manner as a nitro motor by starving the motor of air, or if they are killed off electronically some how?
Please advise, as people with gas motors at my club are a little 'thin on the ground' so to speak.

aerobear - How much additional horsepower \ rpm does the tuned pipe give you on the DLE 20?

kiwibob72 - I'm relatively new to gas, too, but I believe you should be able to starve the engine using the throttle (same as Nitro). Many also install optical kill switches and others (like myself) also install a choke servo. I prefer using the choke servo, as its' quick, you don't have to re-find the spot where your throttle was before, and the engine starts right back up. (kill switch will do the same).

aerobear,

Would have been much better if you'd tested it against the completely stock setup AND with some of the better props(Vess 17 x 6 & Xoar 17 x 6), PLUS static thrust figures for each.

As is it's very much one sided with little to compare as a baseline.

Nice pipe though.

kiwibob,

You can kill these same as glow with throttle kill, or via a seperate choke servo (extra weight), or via an ignition kill (my preffered method).

Each has it's issues both good & bad, but with the ign kill when the ign has no juice it dies right now!
Throttle & choke servo kills depend on their linkages never failing. Your choice.

Just get a Syssa ignition battery eliminator (IBEC) and connect it to the "gear" port on your radio and you have a on-off switch and an LED that indicates if the ignition is hot or not. It eliminates a second battery for the ignition, is optically coupled, and regulates the voltage into the ignition ot about 5.6V regardless of input voltage. I have 5 of them and use them with 6.6v LiFe on 3 planes, and 7.2V LiPo's on 2 of them and it works perfectly. It is a real no brainer that takes care of all gasser install issues, and you can get rid of the choke servo.
http://www.syssaaircraft.net/cart/pc...p;idcategory=2
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Or one of these from 42% products: The Mini Thor Ignition Power Expander. They work very well and shipping is just $1.50 and they are made in the USA.

L.

I use a 42% opti-kill. You plug it into a channel on your receiver and switch the ignition on/off.

I also use a single battery for the radio and ignition and put a diode between the ignition and battery to drop the voltage of my LiFe battery down to something the ignition module can tolerate.

Suggest you go to the gas forum and look through the sticky " gas engines for newbies"

I just replaced my crankshaft on my engine because it got bent somehow, I never crashed it or have ever broken a prop.??? Anyhow I took it all apart and found it never had a gasket installed from the factory between the head and the crankcase.[X(] I then found that the original crank was poorly machined compared to the new one. The new one has some kind of black coating along the shaft and the counter weight. You can see a lip of unmachined metal on the old crank on the left.This engine runs great but you need to almost take them apart and go over them before installing. NO locktight any where, as mentioned previously.

Holy smokes!

You have your production pieces which probably pass the Q&A process of, if it fits, its good! looks don't matter.
Then you have your replacement parts, made by someone else with a different machine, obviously, and pass a rigorous Q&A process!

I am almost afraid to take mine apart! But I won't do it till there is a problem. Mine is still trying to finish off its second gallon! @40, 10 minute flights so far.
Runs reliably!

Mike R

I think the QA is inconsistent. I had 52 flights on the DLE-20 on the Ultra Stick until I sold it. Now I have that at least on the Velox and I have had no issues with Stihl HP Ultra and I fly the Velox very hard. I am running no alcohol gas if that makes a difference.

The type of fuel is not a factor from what I see in the posted pictures. Poor machining, poor OR none at all QC is pretty evident here. Must have been a Monday morning or late Friday afternoon engine. If there was any QC done, then + or - 1/4" must be the rule.

despite the visual differences the machined surfaces look fine and that's what matters. So shock horror aside did you notice anything that can account for a bent crank? I'm still betting on user error.

raptureboy

I am curious to know if you bought the engine used or "new-in-box?"

Hey new to the DLE-20 forum I have a DLE- 111 on a Pilot RC 35% 107" YAK 54  LOVE IT and a DLE-20 on a <span id="prodTitleBrand">Twist 40 ARF </span> <span sizcache="16" sizset="378" id="brandName">by <font color="#0066cc">Hangar 9</font></span> I also LOVE IT but it's like puting a KENWORTH engine in my Dodge 1500 Ram.No more starters,glow plugs,glow fuel,power panels.

crazyflyboy30,
Congrats on the DLE-20 on your Twist 40...I would love to see pics of that! There is a group on RCG that you might enjoy:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...p;goto=newpost

They call themselves Twistaholics; I think your DLE-20 on a Twist 40 definitely classifies you as a Twistaholic!
Come join us!
-Mike
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My DLE 20 is on aTwist 150. It will pull it of a hover.

That sounds great; I found plans for a 30cc size Twist; I was thinking of building that and putting my DLE-30 on it!
You are not too far from me: Ringwood, IL...where do you fly?

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I have a Bling 50cc ARF with a Brison 2.4 it is like a big Twist if you want to get one you buy it in parts at search.horizonhobby.com/index.jspit adds to about $380.

My main interest was a comparison with my OS 120 AX which used the same pipe and same props. I was short on time and this is far as I got before dark. I have no interest in the stock muffler as the noise from this type is unacceptable. From past experience the difference from stock to tuned is consistently so much better that I don't bother testing the stock anymore. Even a mousse can exhaust can be a huge improvement. For those not experienced with tuned exhaust I guess some numbers with the stock muffler would be interesting. When time allows I will do it. It will be a couple of months before I can get to it.

My post stated I don't have a selection of wood props to try other than the one Valley View included with the engine. (They let you pick which one you want) If you want to spend a bunch of money and send me some I will be happy to test them. I find the APC ones work very well for pattern flying. As for the Vess and Xoar being "better", that is a subjective judgement worthy of a new thread.

I don't yet have a way to test static thrust. Someday. Of course we don't fly static airplanes. Flying the prop is the final word. In pattern we look for a compromise of vertical performance with downline braking and overall speed envelope. Only a flight test gives all that info. 3D flyers have their own measure of what works for them.

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That sounds great; I found plans for a 30cc size Twist; I was thinking of building that and putting my DLE-30 on it!
You are not too far from me: Ringwood, IL...where do you fly?


I fly a little north of Lake Geneva or the Whitewater club. I have one more twist 150 with an MDL 28 in it. About the same power because of the weight difference.

It sure does, and with authority!
The Twist pulls out a wee bit slower than the AW PROX because it's a bit heavier.

I did my H9 Twist 150/DLE20 last December.
Put my second DLE20 into an AW PROX260 Freestyle .90 size last October.
Both are waaaaay too much fun with this mighty DLE20!!!

All ya need is one of those cheap digital fish scales to test static thrust (Wal-Mart, etc).

True, we don't fly static, but for any figures such as you posted to have value, some baseline is required for your info to have something to compare your numbers against. Basic testing 101.

Others have already posted great info on such, which is noted in my recap of this msg thread, included in the very first msg of this thread under [Prop Data]:

The baseline for comparison is the OS 120AX. I'm comparing engines, not props. As noted, the DLE is 300-500 rpm slower with the same props and pipe, depending on nitro content. Basic enough for a general comparison of two engines I think.

That and a bunch of time. Real life keeps getting in the way of playing with toy airplanes.