DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
09-03-2013 | 02:59 AM
#6576
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From: Prior Lake,
MN
I'm beginning to think that the DLE 20 isn't up to the task of replacing the YS 120.
]I was going to use it in my Funtanna 100X, but I see where people have put the DLE 30 in the Funtanna 125X which isn't much bigger than the 100X.
I'm thinking the DLE 30 would be a bit much for the 100X.
I was thinking of replacing my expensive to operate glow fuel motors with gas. If I wanted to buy the YS 115 it would be close to $400.00.
]
Greg
]I was going to use it in my Funtanna 100X, but I see where people have put the DLE 30 in the Funtanna 125X which isn't much bigger than the 100X.
I'm thinking the DLE 30 would be a bit much for the 100X.
I was thinking of replacing my expensive to operate glow fuel motors with gas. If I wanted to buy the YS 115 it would be close to $400.00.
]
Greg
09-03-2013 | 03:09 AM
#6577
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I've flown Funtana 125's with both a 20 and a 30. The only time you can use the full power of the 30 is when you're pointed up! The 20 is lighter feeling, much more civilized, and every bit as much fun. Given the choice, I don't believe the 30 is the 'go to' engine for that airframe anymore. It was more commonly used before the 20's were available?
09-03-2013 | 05:23 AM
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From: Apache, Oklahoma OK
I've flown Funtana 125's with both a 20 and a 30. The only time you can use the full power of the 30 is when you're pointed up! The 20 is lighter feeling, much more civilized, and every bit as much fun. Given the choice, I don't believe the 30 is the 'go to' engine for that airframe anymore. It was more commonly used before the 20's were available?
09-03-2013 | 12:56 PM
#6579
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From: Prior Lake,
MN
JohnB96041...Do you fly 32D with the DLE20?
I was just kind of afraid that the DLE20 wouldn't have the same power or more than the YS 120FZ, and I would rate the YS 120 as being the least power I would like on the Funtanna 100X.
Greg
I was just kind of afraid that the DLE20 wouldn't have the same power or more than the YS 120FZ, and I would rate the YS 120 as being the least power I would like on the Funtanna 100X.
Greg
09-03-2013 | 04:27 PM
#6581
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Not sure what kind of prop/rpm's you are getting on the 120, but my dle turns a vess 17x6 about 8300 rpm's at 3100' of alt. I had a ys 110s that turned the same prop at 8900-9000 rpm's. Both engines where on a OMP Fusion. The YS 110 had lots more power, but I have the DLE 20 on the fusion as it flies it great, but sips the fuel. Most people running the vess 17x6 get around 8200-8600 pending where they are at, etc...
Hope this helps. I love my dle 20, miss the power of the YS 110s, but don't miss the fuel bill, nor the mess.
Hope this helps. I love my dle 20, miss the power of the YS 110s, but don't miss the fuel bill, nor the mess.
09-04-2013 | 01:05 PM
#6582
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From: Prior Lake,
MN
My YS 120 needs rebuilding now, but when it was fresh it would turn the 17 X 6 at 8900 to 9200 rpm. I use 20/20 fuel.
Right now it will only get about 8000-8200 rpm on the same 17 X 6.
I'm figuring the DLE 20 may be a little short of what I need for power.
My Funtana is at 10lb 2oz with the YS 120, and would be about the same with the DLE 20.
Greg
Right now it will only get about 8000-8200 rpm on the same 17 X 6.
I'm figuring the DLE 20 may be a little short of what I need for power.
My Funtana is at 10lb 2oz with the YS 120, and would be about the same with the DLE 20.
Greg
09-04-2013 | 04:44 PM
#6583
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Just a thought? Maybe finish out the season on the YS. By time next season rolls around the new rear exhaust DLE 20 should be out (VV says they're on the way). They HAD to have played with the transfer ports to do that (turn the cylinder 90 degrees), giving them a chance to "modernize" a little maybe? That new RE engine could very well have a little more poop - to put it in a pretty good position to compete with your YS 1 to 1.
Another thought. You might want to check out the new beam mounted RCGF 26cc engine. It's a little heavier than the DLE 20, but has the same foot print, and the extra cc's should give it significantly more punch. 18" props easily....
Another thought. You might want to check out the new beam mounted RCGF 26cc engine. It's a little heavier than the DLE 20, but has the same foot print, and the extra cc's should give it significantly more punch. 18" props easily....
Last edited by ahicks; 09-04-2013 at 04:48 PM.
09-05-2013 | 07:54 AM
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From: El Reno, OK
Just guessing here, but I doubt very much if the YS 110 was the "target" for the DLE 20 to replace....there are likely a HUGE number of glow 4C and larger 2C glow engines that the DLE 20 *DOES* performance-match very easily.
Mine is very "adequate" for my Monolog 110 pattern airplane, which was designed around the YS 110 (if glow power is selected for it).
The newer RCGFs have plenty of poop for their displacement...I have the 26cc and it is scary how close it is to what a DLE 30cc puts out.
Mine is very "adequate" for my Monolog 110 pattern airplane, which was designed around the YS 110 (if glow power is selected for it).
The newer RCGFs have plenty of poop for their displacement...I have the 26cc and it is scary how close it is to what a DLE 30cc puts out.
09-06-2013 | 05:44 AM
#6586
Hi Bob, I am contemplating putting one of the new beam mounted RCGF 26 in an existing model and would appreciate if you could post the actual weight of yours including the muffler and ignition. Thanks.
09-06-2013 | 07:47 AM
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From: Prior Lake,
MN
Who has the new beam mounted ones?
I was reading a couple of threads on the RCGF,26 and the people were having problems with the carburetor not drawing fuel. Are these issues resolved?
Greg
09-06-2013 | 07:54 AM
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From: Ladera Ranch, CA
I don't want to talk smack about someone else's choices but after a year of flying DLE engines I have yet to meet someone at 3 different clubs that enjoy/trust the their RCGF engines. Just last month I sold a spare DLE20 to a club flyer and switched his RCGF for the DLE. He has been flyin every Sunday since and swears by the DLE now.
His major complaint of the RCGF engine was stability and consistency. It would start fine in the morning but get less and less consistent after that... He called it his "one good flight" warbird.
FYI>>> after a gallon of 32:1 through my DLE's I switch to 100:1 Amzoil packets... Super simple (one packet to a gallon) and all my DLE's perform exceedingly well on it with less black exhaust splatter too!
His major complaint of the RCGF engine was stability and consistency. It would start fine in the morning but get less and less consistent after that... He called it his "one good flight" warbird.
FYI>>> after a gallon of 32:1 through my DLE's I switch to 100:1 Amzoil packets... Super simple (one packet to a gallon) and all my DLE's perform exceedingly well on it with less black exhaust splatter too!
09-06-2013 | 08:00 AM
#6589
I don't want to talk smack about someone else's choices but after a year of flying DLE engines I have yet to meet someone at 3 different clubs that enjoy/trust the their RCGF engines. Just last month I sold a spare DLE20 to a club flyer and switched his RCGF for the DLE. He has been flyin every Sunday since and swears by the DLE now.
His major complaint of the RCGF engine was stability and consistency. It would start fine in the morning but get less and less consistent after that... He called it his "one good flight" warbird.
FYI>>> after a gallon of 32:1 through my DLE's I switch to 100:1 Amzoil packets... Super simple (one packet to a gallon) and all my DLE's perform exceedingly well on it with less black exhaust splatter too!
His major complaint of the RCGF engine was stability and consistency. It would start fine in the morning but get less and less consistent after that... He called it his "one good flight" warbird.
FYI>>> after a gallon of 32:1 through my DLE's I switch to 100:1 Amzoil packets... Super simple (one packet to a gallon) and all my DLE's perform exceedingly well on it with less black exhaust splatter too!
I have an RCGF 15cc beam mount which has performed flawlessly since installation. Idle is very low and stable and the transition is no different from my DLE30. While I have had to replace the carb on my DLE the RCGF has been rock solid.
I hope this post doesn't classify as a thread hijack.
DaleD
09-06-2013 | 08:12 AM
#6590
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Greg, the new beam mounted RCGF 26 is an entirely different engine from the previous 26. It's BRAND new, and a bunch lighter. Very few have been sold. For all practical purposes, externally it's a twin to the beam mounted 20cc engine.
Way off DLE topic here, but there's a dedicated RCGF string with more new BM (beam mount) 26cc info here:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-engines-142/7823494-rcgf-engines-241.html
Last off topic thought, I've had very good luck, with multiple RCGF's.
Way off DLE topic here, but there's a dedicated RCGF string with more new BM (beam mount) 26cc info here:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-engines-142/7823494-rcgf-engines-241.html
Last off topic thought, I've had very good luck, with multiple RCGF's.
Last edited by ahicks; 09-06-2013 at 08:17 AM.
09-27-2013 | 05:34 AM
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From: Chesapeake,
VA
Larry
Your post is a perfect example of mis-information.
I'm I able to make this more clear, I'll give it a try:
The DLE 20cc engine comes standard with the DLE #4 module built for DLE by RCexel.
The DLE 30cc & 55 comes standard with the DLE #1 module built for DLE by RCexel.(these are the only engines I bought new so I can verify only these three).
Of important note on these two ignitions is that the #1 module has Bill Carpenters auto advance ignition timing built to simulate a steady mechanical advance. While the #4 has a single setpoint all in timing advance.
Here in the market we are not privelge to why this was done. Only that some users of the 20cc have a difficult time with this
Now I have to speculate here a little from my field observations.
Many new to gas engine users have come into the market. Your post is an example of some of the mis-information some of them have.
In the #4 there is no program to hold the engine at an RPM for cool down(cool down is best achieved with a slightly rich LSN). The program simply calculates the RPM and retards it below a setpoint or advances it above the set point.
If you add in the problems of learning to tune gas engines along with the power production vs butterfly position and now the "STEP". All things new to gas people do not understand yet.
You can see where much of these issues get their facts distorted. However in this long thread somewhere is almost all the information anybody will ever need on this 20cc engine. Much of the most useful info is update on the first page.
A properly setup and tuned engine no matter what should not die.
I hope this is clear. Any questions please ask.
Your post is a perfect example of mis-information.
I'm I able to make this more clear, I'll give it a try:
The DLE 20cc engine comes standard with the DLE #4 module built for DLE by RCexel.
The DLE 30cc & 55 comes standard with the DLE #1 module built for DLE by RCexel.(these are the only engines I bought new so I can verify only these three).
Of important note on these two ignitions is that the #1 module has Bill Carpenters auto advance ignition timing built to simulate a steady mechanical advance. While the #4 has a single setpoint all in timing advance.
Here in the market we are not privelge to why this was done. Only that some users of the 20cc have a difficult time with this
Now I have to speculate here a little from my field observations.
Many new to gas engine users have come into the market. Your post is an example of some of the mis-information some of them have.
In the #4 there is no program to hold the engine at an RPM for cool down(cool down is best achieved with a slightly rich LSN). The program simply calculates the RPM and retards it below a setpoint or advances it above the set point.
If you add in the problems of learning to tune gas engines along with the power production vs butterfly position and now the "STEP". All things new to gas people do not understand yet.
You can see where much of these issues get their facts distorted. However in this long thread somewhere is almost all the information anybody will ever need on this 20cc engine. Much of the most useful info is update on the first page.
A properly setup and tuned engine no matter what should not die.
I hope this is clear. Any questions please ask.
Dave
09-27-2013 | 05:56 AM
#6593
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From: El Reno, OK
Dave - as has been mentioned, there has been some misinformation here and there. The DLE 20 is very sensitive to low end mixture settings, and it affects the slow down, but the high end lean-ness seems to affect it more. ahicks helped me understand that the high end being slightly lean can mean it's a little 'hot' when pulling back to idle like for approach, and that has been my experience with this particular engine.
There *WAS* an ignition with a "step" built in to the curve which created nightmares for many. Others may chime in with exact knowledge of which version that it. If yours is 2 years old, it likely could have that module - if I were you, I'd call Tom and ValleyView and talk it out with him. He is very helpful, and not one prone to BS his customers.
My DLE 20 is a sweetheart NOW after getting a couple hours run time on it, and making sure the high end is not overly-lean....yours will be the same. It's a great engine.
There *WAS* an ignition with a "step" built in to the curve which created nightmares for many. Others may chime in with exact knowledge of which version that it. If yours is 2 years old, it likely could have that module - if I were you, I'd call Tom and ValleyView and talk it out with him. He is very helpful, and not one prone to BS his customers.
My DLE 20 is a sweetheart NOW after getting a couple hours run time on it, and making sure the high end is not overly-lean....yours will be the same. It's a great engine.
09-27-2013 | 06:56 AM
#6594
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From: Chesapeake,
VA
Bob,
thanks for the quick response. I think I will call Tom at VV. I suspect I may have that particular ignition module. The so called "step" is very pronounced and occurs on the ground after first starting the engine before it warms up. I'll have to pull the cowl and check which ignition module version I have. Thanks again,
Dave
thanks for the quick response. I think I will call Tom at VV. I suspect I may have that particular ignition module. The so called "step" is very pronounced and occurs on the ground after first starting the engine before it warms up. I'll have to pull the cowl and check which ignition module version I have. Thanks again,
Dave
09-27-2013 | 07:02 AM
#6595
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Captain,
There are 2 totally different issues that will cause what you're describing (the hang). One is heat related, the other has to do with that 'step' in the ign. module (if you have the early module with the 4.8v voltage limit).
If it's the step that's messing with you, you can lower your idle speed a little to help or eliminate that issue. The ign. 'step' happens at around 2200 or so, and if you're set at 2000 normally, it's not too hard to see it might hang a little prior to dropping? If you have the newer module with the 8.4v limit, the step is gone. This is not your issue.
More likely, it's the temp thing. Try running your LS needle a little richer to see if that doesn't help? If it's right, the idle should be kinda lumpy. A 2 stroke single is not well known for how smooth they idle when right. There's a better explanation in the notes I wrote up in the "Newbie to gas" string at the top of the gas section here. It's the last note.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...l#post11210626
Holler if you're still having trouble after that. There's a bunch of us that have been messing with these 20's for a while now....
There are 2 totally different issues that will cause what you're describing (the hang). One is heat related, the other has to do with that 'step' in the ign. module (if you have the early module with the 4.8v voltage limit).
If it's the step that's messing with you, you can lower your idle speed a little to help or eliminate that issue. The ign. 'step' happens at around 2200 or so, and if you're set at 2000 normally, it's not too hard to see it might hang a little prior to dropping? If you have the newer module with the 8.4v limit, the step is gone. This is not your issue.
More likely, it's the temp thing. Try running your LS needle a little richer to see if that doesn't help? If it's right, the idle should be kinda lumpy. A 2 stroke single is not well known for how smooth they idle when right. There's a better explanation in the notes I wrote up in the "Newbie to gas" string at the top of the gas section here. It's the last note.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...l#post11210626
Holler if you're still having trouble after that. There's a bunch of us that have been messing with these 20's for a while now....
09-27-2013 | 10:20 AM
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From: North Port, FL
Hi guys, My buddy just bought a used DLE 20 and we're having a hard time getting it to stay running. When it runs it's only for about 2 to 3 seconds. We checked the fuel filter, fuel lines, vent line, ignition batt and reset the needles back to factory settings. Previous owner said he only ran about a gallon through it and it runs perfect.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Any thoughts?
Thanks
09-27-2013 | 10:27 AM
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From: Apache, Oklahoma OK
Would suggest checking the small screen filter inside the carb. Do you have a fuel filter between the tank and the carb? What prop size are you using? Is the ignition battery fully charged?
09-27-2013 | 10:37 AM
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From: El Reno, OK
Hi guys, My buddy just bought a used DLE 20 and we're having a hard time getting it to stay running. When it runs it's only for about 2 to 3 seconds. We checked the fuel filter, fuel lines, vent line, ignition batt and reset the needles back to factory settings. Previous owner said he only ran about a gallon through it and it runs perfect.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Any thoughts?
Thanks
09-27-2013 | 11:15 AM
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From: North Port, FL
Thanks guys, Yes he has a new filter between the tank and carb. The ignition batt is fully charged and I think he has a 16x8 prop on it. Bob, do you think the pump may be bad or the needles may be clogged? We will check the screen. I didn't think about how long the engine may have been sitting before it was sold.
09-27-2013 | 11:20 AM
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From: Ladera Ranch, CA
I had a problem with a RCEXL Opto Engine Kill setup that matches what you're saying... turns out that it did something to the ignition too (replaced new from Tower Hobbies).. I don't use them anymore... and love my DLE's... BTW... I'm machining a copy of the auto-electric starter available for DLE55's for the DLE20... I'll have a post soon on that project.
I have a couple planes with auto start (TF GS FW190 and a bash P51 ARF) and they are the coolest thing since 2.4GHz
I have a couple planes with auto start (TF GS FW190 and a bash P51 ARF) and they are the coolest thing since 2.4GHz
