Can't wait for the remarks on that one

<hr />
<hr />It has nothing to do with dwell time in this case. That dwell time would not have changed that much. AT very high RPM it may make a difference...but 9K(about what that enginerun,s at)is no where near 18K or 18,000 RPM. I would say there is no need to talk about dwell time...that will just confuse more newbies! Capt,n

I'm reasonably certain they will be a little off color.

The real point of this whole thread was to inform those that have a new engine and ignition that appears not to work to check what happens if they lower the hall sensor and get it closer to the hub magnet. The ignition may be just fine but have a sensor outside of the functional radiated magnetic field. Regardless of what someone else sets their air gap at, there could be room for inprovement with the one they have.

TOM, I agree 100% with that. Capt,n</p>

A good thing to check for sure. Thanks for the heads up.

In the automotive field the crank shaft position sensor gap is critical for proper operation of the ignition system.To large of a gap will result in loss of spark.GM has technical service bulletins on this subject.I have seen this issue first hand.
                                       
                                                                                             Regards,
                                                                                                              Jason

I never knew you two were that close

Now we ALL know

Karol

Took you guys long enough to start the act...

Today ive received a CRRCpro GF26I with this problem (really the problem was the hall sensor was not well glued on their plastic housing) After remove the hall sensor, and glue again 3 mm forward into the plastic sensor housing, engine comes alive. All sensors i have in stock, #26170 have the same problem.

Thanks T.O.M.

Hmm,...
We just had pink monday. Didn't see you guys?

<hr />Yes...al they would need to do is read posts # 28 &amp;29 Capt,n

Just ran a 2.0 A&M than someone has adapted a BCMA RC EXL ignition to..The gap at the rotor is .160...Yes, .160....It runs perfectly well....So much for close air gaps...

Ain't that just peachy. It does tend to generate some thoughts about sensor and magnet quality if some only work close and some will work far. Then again what is the composition of the plastic housing?

Aside from that, it's pretty obvious that most of the people in this thread never watched the old Kojack television series with Telly Savalas. Almost slipped and typed TV series instead of television. I figure this to be a tough crowd. Luv ya baby.

<hr />
<hr />You are forgetting on...maybe 2 things.
#1 The magnet may be stronger on that hub.
#2 There can be a variance from one pick-up to another.

Kinda curious...what is your explanation why some units need the gap closer????

Before I ran the engine I was all set to make a new sensor adapter...I don't know why some work with a big gap and some don't..
The old saying applies, "if it ain't broke don't fix it"..

I did, and am getting closer to looking like Telly every day. You need to start loosing some hair one of these day, lifes not fair sometimes

 Hi guys..Im kinda new here but I want to pick your brains about and rcexl ignition...The story starts with buying a brand new rcexl ignition for a crrc 40 kit motor. I ended up getting the kit motor to running with the stock crrc ignition system..I also have a crrc gf26I engine that I was having starting problems with. I was checking the timing and found it at 46deg btdc. I notched the bracket out some and set timing to 28deg. To late that noight to run engine so I got back to it a few days later and found that I left the ign switch on and burned up the ign box...my question is will the rcexl box for the 40cc which uses a cm6 plug work on my 26 which uses the cmr6h plug and can I just rewire the stock crrc 26 sensor to work with the rcexl box

If memory serves me right, you will have to change the sensor also,

Milton

Loved that show when I was growing up. Him and the lolypop, LOL.

TOM
thanks for the heads up, there is always theory and then there is the curve ball - its something to bear in mind

Hey guys, I was not aware that leaving on the ignition switch could fry an RC exl ignition. I thought it would only kill the battery.

Karol

Oh god! I had a visual of a hairless Pat working on an engine with a sucker hanging out his mouth. [:-]

 It did fry it..you put a hot battery to it and it emmits a faint high pitch humming noise and wont  spark at all.