bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

HUH!!!??? the SWB horn doesn't go on the rudder, it goes on the servo! If you are talking about the fact that the SWB clevis holes are CLEARLY AFT of the pivot point (where it bolts to the servo), that has nothing to do with the position of the control horn at the rudder! The SWB arm has that geometry due to the fact that the pull-pull cable wires cross each other in the fuselage, which affects the geometry. NO QUESTION ABOUT IT... the control horns on the rudder point FORWARD!

Hammbone

My Feedback: (309)

The manual even says that the holes in the rudder horn should be even with the rudder hinge line.

Jim

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

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TailTouch

My Feedback: (54)

Sorry about the confusion, I was asking about the double truss servo arms.

If my understanding is correct, here is how it should look (Sorry for the crude drawing)

Hammbone

My Feedback: (309)

LOL,
I've seen this confusion before on RCU.
The thing that goes on the servo is called an arm.
The thing that goes on a control surface is called a horn.

Jim

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

Huh, ( I read between the lines and knew you wern't talking about the rudder horns)

I'll say it again, I'm not sure that your assumption is correct, It may go the opposite way of your drawing. The drawing is a little off, It shows the servo spline and the holes at the end of the arm to be in a line with said arm if that was the case it wouldn't matter which way you put it. However they are not in line. i'm using the SWB servo arms, and the holes are clearly behind the servo spline. I'm not 100% sure which way it goes cause I'm not using it,( personally I think it's going to put a lot of stress on the servo bearings because of the high offset) I'd ask a few more people before cutting your pull pull wires. I'm assuming the arrow is pointing tword the rudder????

John

BBriBro

My Feedback: (2)

??????????????? he typed the word " NOSE" right there, we all know the rudder isn't at the nose

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

didn't even see that little word, I didn't enlarge the picture, who would have thought there would be a secret code word imbeded in the pic. Now that I know what a nose and a $ss of the plane is, I'd say you have it correct.

Horns, noses, arms, SWB and BS Look what you started man!

ten pillows

Anyone have any recommendations about what smoke setup I should use for this plane?

Hammbone

My Feedback: (309)

I like the Bennett smoke pump. It works off of crankcase pressure so you don't need an extra battery. This might save a little weight.
It has an on/off valve which works very well and gives you a quicker response to on/off commands.

I don't like how electric pumps take a several seconds to come on and then linger and slowly fade out after turning them off. There's always a small chance of an electric pump causing interference too.

The Bennett pump also produces a lot of smoke.

You'll get a lot of different opinions on which smoke system to use, but that's my opinion.


Jim

lex2bits

My Feedback: (12)

This is kinda cool.

[link]http://www.epanelbuilder.com/index.htm[/link]

Ray

lex2bits

My Feedback: (12)

Maudib,

Heheh..... here's your next assignment: Make the 68" or the 87" do this!

[link]http://modellvideos.de/videos/KnuffelVerstellprop-die-zwote.wmv[/link]

Ray

wgeffon

My Feedback: (4)

Pull Pull explanation from SWB.
(Yak uses example B)

http://www.swbmfg.com/rudex.html

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

Here are a few pics of things I haven't seen in this thread yet..<g>

I took a carbon plate and made a bracket, then bent a wire to make the choke lever.... Second pic is the fuel and smoke tank. I gotta give "wapilot" credit for the idea of mounting the tank in the pipe tunnel, great idea! The smoke pump will rest right in front of the main tank...




I used two 16 oz tanks... put the top/fuel tank just far enough so I can get my paws in to tighten the wing bolts... smoke tank in tunnel could have been right on CG, but I would have had to get tricky..this was tricky enough



That tunnel also makes an excellent place to hide wires!

Mike

WaPilot

I knew I should have put a patent on that idea.... ! that would be 10 bucks This Yak has so much space in that tunnel area I had to use it since I'm not using a tuned pipe.

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

nice choke job!

I was talking to a buddy of mine that says he solders a small arm onto the choke lever so he can pull it up and down instead of foreword and back, that way you can pull and push from the bottom. I'll probably try this as soon as my motor gets here.

FWIW (for what it's worth)

John

matus777

"This Yak has so much space in that tunnel area I had to use it since I'm not using a tuned pipe."


That's where i plan to keep a clean pair of underware to be used after trying my first rolling harrier up high with this YAK!

ten pillows

Charles, what smoke system are you using?

ten pillows

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

ten pillows, where in washington are you?? Be fun to get together this summer and compare notes on these things...and fly a little too I got the slimline pro pump... I couldn't pass up shiny blue anodizing and an internal batt.....

Mike

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

Just recieved my DA50. Cute little thing. It appears my carb is mounted different than others I have seen in the YAK I'm assuming I just have to turn it around? As it is, in the inverted position the throtle world be on the left side. Anything I need to know when flipping this thing?

John

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

When flipping the carb, do you flip the reed block too?

John

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

John, Mine was same way, I thought I was crazy for a while<g> just undo the two red cap head bolts and rotate whole assembly... Then, everything will line up... I was half way through a new bracket for the throttle servo!

Mike

stomper

My Feedback: (20)

It does not matter if you rotate the reed block or not when flipping the carb.
If you do remove the reed block, make sure the reed petals are in place!
Also use a dap of medium strength blue threadlocker on the ends of the mounting ( red ) bolts.

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

Mike, I just called Da, they say to flip the carb, but not the block. They say if you flip the block it may not idel properly. I wonder if anybody has any experience with this.??

Did you loctite the bolts in? wow you can't tighten them much without changing the shape of the reedblock.

Da says not to use Loctite on the bolts cause they are alluminum and it may gall the threads in the engine block. I really dont' think blue Loctite will. Any opinions?

John

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

jrjohn,

I'd do just as DA suggests and not use LocTite... when you think about it... they all come stock with none and there hasn't been a noticable problem with it.