jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

dave, actually there was a blue substance on the threads that I was sure was bule loctite. When I asked DA they told me it was some kind of blue loctite sealer, but didn't identify what kind.

I put blue loctite on and tightened it down, Hopefully I will never have to come off. I did this because the insturctions said to loctite everything. Now I just need a longer pulse hose.

JOhn

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

John, good advice on the reed block not needing to be flipped, so just use a longer piece of tygon and change out the short piece??? I'm assuming the black piece in between the carb and case is the reed block

Thanks, Mike

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

Mike you are correct about the reed block and the need for a longer tygon line

John

ten pillows

I live in Bonney Lake and fly at the Ram Field. I usually fly, weather permitting, Sunday, Monday, Tues. morning, Wednesday morning, Thursday after 3:00pm, and Friday mornings. E-mail me with your number and I'll phone and we can set a time that works for both of us. We'll call Charles and have him come out too. Definitely, let's get together and fly. Perhaps IMAC...? Polar Bear is April 10th at Ram Field. I look forward to meeting you.

Mike Raines
ten pillows

ScaleRules

My Feedback: (5)

Guys,

you better check with DA before you do anything. They have been doing some mods one of which was to stop some pudling in the carb.. the change in orientation of the carb amy have been the mod. I just sent my DA back for this mod and some others.. all under warranty.

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

Jim, read back a few posts, you'll see what DA told me about flipping the carb. it's ok, but not to flip the reed block

John

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

Yeah, DONT FLIP IT!!!! the carb has been repositioned to fix an ongoing problem with puddling of raw fuel in the reed block. It is very important that the pressure port on the reed block be pointing toward the ground when it is on the engine...just reposition your servo to make the linkage work.

pgrose110

My Feedback: (25)

I have the DA with new carb configuration and the choke and throttle arms are on the top right looking from the front of the engine. To operate the choke I use a stiff wire with a hook on one end simply reach through the front of the cowl, insert the hook in the hole in the stock arm, push it back to close and pull it forward to open. Works fine because of all the room in the cowl and no need for additional linkages, etc.

The boys Back

I just thought i would open the box and check my engine that came with my yak. is this the correct orientation??

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

DA said it was OK to rotate the carb, but not the reed block. In this configeration you need a longer pulse line which is no problem. DA said if you flip the reed block it may not idle correctly but the carb is OK

wgeffon

My Feedback: (4)

The Yak is designed to have the throttle and choke arm on the right as you look at the motor from the rear. Its a straight shot to the linkages this way.
The carb block mod has the nipple pointing down when the motor is installed on the plane. A two inch (or so) piece of tubing curls up from the left side and to the top of the carb.

You can probably get away with the throttle arm on the left side but I am not sure it will be a straight shot.
Anyone tried it yet?

Seems like people getting their motors now all have the throttle arms on the other side. I dont think thats part of the Mod. DA told me to just insatll the new carb spacer on my motor as is. They didnt say the carb had to be flipped.

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

Thats how mine was too, it makes the throttle hook up a little messy, I think you'll have to cut some of the firewall to get throttle linkage in. I rotated mine. the carb used to be just the opposite of what it is now, they roatated the carb and the reed block together, I'm assuming it was because the pulse line was so nice and close in this configeration. The carb orientation had nothing to do with the idle problem

John

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

Yes, although it appears they did not rotate the carb on yours...did you send it in for the update or purchase it new??? Not that it matters, however, since it's only the pressure port position that matters.

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

Looks like were on the same page Wayne

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

Tenpillows, I should be good to go by April 10th for sure..... I think I did heli demos at that event last year.... We'll have to do a little formation flying :-)

Mike

pgrose110

My Feedback: (25)

I did not rotate my carb and got a straight shot from the servo by making some minor mods. I am using 4/40 ball links and a titanium link hooked to the short arm on the carb. I removed the red aluminum extension piece. I rotated and raised the throttle servo 1/4 in and cut away a small amount of firewall for clean shot.

jpa2002

My Feedback: (115)

OK, where do I get the KS exhaust heade and pipe that connects to the KS pipe coupler? The one I have is not the correct one?

Please help ASAP, so that I can get it here quick.

Thanks
Jon

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

I hate to bring this up, I even tried to search for it with no luck.... Which fuel line do you have to loop? the vent or the main clunk line... and why are we doing this?? I saw this a ways back, made an effort to look for it, got bored going through each page.

Also, Wayne.. could you have Drew post your radio set up and limits on the website?? I'd like to copy them, but good luck finding that post in 100+!!!! We need someone (who is really bored) to index this thread for us!!!!!

Thanks, Mike

pgrose110

My Feedback: (25)

I got everything from Desert Aircraft.

going vert

My Feedback: (11)

The loop is on the vent line. This is to prevent fuel from coming out the vent on V. down lines.

Wayne - email me the radio setup and I'll post it.

Here are my IMAC modes:

1) Fly around
Aileron - 30%throw and 0% expo
Elevator - 29%throw and 20% expo
Rudder - 45% throw and 40% expo

2) rollers and hammer heads
Aileron - 30%throw and 0% expo
Elevator - 29%throw and 20% expo
Rudder - 80% throw and 60% expo

3) snaps
Aileron - 59%throw and 65% expo
Elevator - 29%throw and 20% expo
Rudder - 45% throw and 40% expo

Throttle offset - 1%
Rudder to elevator - A = -7%, B = +4%
Rudder to aileron - A = -2%, B = -2%

That's it....

Mudsurfer1234

YAY!! It's startin to look like somthin!

jpa2002

My Feedback: (115)

Does anybody recall how much the header assembly costs from DA? I purchased a used one, and it was being ran on a Comp-ARF 2.3m Extra 330L, but it has like a 15 degree bend at the flange.

I guess I will sell the one I have and get the needed one.

Starting to look good Scott! Just mounted my engine tonight, no I need my header and I should be able to wrap up the engine/muffler install and finish the remainder.

Also included a pic of my lightened Ohio RC Extra 300 with a DA 50!


Thanks for any input guys.

Jon

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

He,He!!! So is that Garage!!! looks like you're officially obsessed with the hobby when building your plane takes priority over cleaning the garage to have a place to build it!!!
I just moved into a new house and have taken priority with the Yak. I still need a back yard, a garage door opener, a work shop, etc. and I DON'T CARE!!! I have set up a card table in the garage and one of the lamps from the house...that will have to do for now

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

The DA header, is around $60-70 if I remember correctly. I bought one but don't remember how much I paid. I don't think the one you have will work Give'em a call and tell them you need one for your EF yak. I recommend the "ZERO DROP" header WITHOUT the flex coupling. Here's their number:
Phone: 520.722.0607

OH AND YOU'RE LANDING GEAR ARE ON BACKWARD!!! THEY NEED TO POINT FORWARD!!!

jpa2002

My Feedback: (115)

D*mn, they are on backwards! I will fix that tomorrow!

Zero drop without the flex, gotcha!

Thanks
Jon