J, OS type F plugs last 15 YEARS or more!
P.Pilot, A duracell D battery cannot supply the amps needed to light a glow plug. You need a VERY short harness with thick wire to get all plugs glowing. Remove the bottom two plugs to drain cylinders and individually burn the thick oil out of the plugs.

For those of us that may be interested, Adrian at CH has updated his website to include the OS carby adaptors, so we can replace the original "ordinary" carby with one that works!
His stock is already reduced by 1...no idea who got that one.....

Greg

Maxam,

Many thanks for your replies.
I am still not able to get the engine to start. I have checked all the plugs the glo system lights them all, although I had to check them individually. My on board pack and booster pack are both fully charged both are 5000 MA. I took the tank out and checked all the plumbing, everything is ok. I open the needle on the new OS carb 21/2 to 3 turns. Despite numerous attempts with a large electric starter which turns the engine over vigorously I get no start and very little to no unburned fuel coming out of the exhaust. I opened the low end needle on the carb 1/8 turn,I think, to no avail. Since I cannot burn the fuel out of the engine I injected 20 m l of air tool oil thru an upper follower hole. When I turn the engine over by hand following the injection the oil comes out black. The engine feels very smooth when turned over by hand. I am surprised that a lot of unburned fuel is not accumulating in the lower cylinders. I have had no hydro lock. I have to choke the engine hard and turn it over with the starter to get some fuel to run out of the exhaust. Getting at the low end needle adjustment is difficult but I am ready to try anything to get this thing started. Last year it ran well enough to fly and strong enough to loop my 30 pound Stearman from level flight. I am using fuel which I mixed last year half wildcat 15% and half methanol. I am going to try the fuel in another four stroke engine.

I have the impression that I have a problem possibly with the low end needle setting. MY on board glo goes on at idle and off at about 1/3 throttle.

Hello all.
As you will now ,I am living in the Netherlands and my english for me is enough to speak and write. Despite this, I am not always sure what the meaning is of some words in conjuction to the context..So here is something I don't understand. I have the onboard glow system from "Just Engines" In the manual they speak about : Tick-over and set points. First i have to make the tick over point and after that i have to set the point were the glowplug starts to glow, for example at 1/8 of the throttle way. For me it means the same; tick over (idle) and 1/8 Can somebody tell me how to handle, because the store where i've bought this glowdriver is closed and i want to start miy Evo 7-77 tomorrow.
Greetings.
Timo.

Hey J, Go to the tower site or OS engines and download the pegasus instructions. Go to the section on the carb operation. That might help a bunch. The idle screw works well. Also take the carb off the engine and blow through the fuel tube listening for air flow at different throttle positions. That can tell you a lot!

Heads up 7-77 owners!
I ran my 7-77 a couple of weeks ago as it hadn't been run for a while. Did everything by the book as usual. Oiled the rockers and followers, drained the two lower cylinders. After the run, ran the engine dry, after run, span it over...you know the drill. Anyway, today got the engine to the field. Put on the prop, removed the two lower plugs to drain excess oil, turned the prop by hand.....dead stuck, no movement. Absolutely rock solid. Checked the rockers and push rods, all good.

Took the engine out and removed the back plate. The circlip holding the gudgeon pins retaining plate had broken into 3 pieces. The plate had dropped out, releasing all the slave connecting rods.

Now, I'm not the one to have a lot of luck. However, there was the bits of circlip sitting on the bearing. The only damage was a tiny nick on one of the piston skirts and a inlet tube.....phew!!

Please check your circlips NOW.....!

Anybody know where I can get the bits and new O rings please ????

Montt00

Could you post a picture of the instructions? There might be an adjuster on the box. I am not familiar with Just Engines glow system but will try and help.

Cymaz
I can,t post the instructions so i will write it.
Set -up
Move the throttle stick and trim to the tick-over position and holt the set button. The LED light up to confirm that the tick-over position has been stored.If the Led is already alight when the button is pressed. the Led will blink out before lighting once more to confirm that the set-up is active. Move the throttle stick to the position (1/8 for example) where you would like the glowplug to activate.Release the button. The Led goesout to confirm that the set-up is complete.

This is what the manual says.
What I don,t understand is the meaning of tick-over in accordence to the set-up point where the glowplug begins to glow.

Thanks in advance for the answer.
Timo

I think what the manual is trying to say is....you are trying to set at which points (on the throttle travel from idle ) the glow driver is on.

Do you mean the beginning point and endpoint?
But what is the difference between the tick-over point and the the set point.Tick-over poit is the same as idle? If so then it.s clear.
In other words: Betwee which points is the driver active?

Hello Cymaz.
I shame myself.
I have translated the word " enable" wrong. I thought that it the same as "not be able" The maual says; "Features: the glowplug is enabled between the user selected tick-over point and set point positions.So I thought the driver isn't activated. I'm sorry i was wrong. Now I understand the manual.
Timo

hi Cymaz
you can hear the wheelspin in the UK.
Otherwise, you can contact UMS factory in India on parts.
I Changed c-clips on my 7-35 when the engine was new

Cheers Linkan2, I am waiting for a reply from UMS India. ( I bet they say send it in to Horizon....ummmm?)

I have ordered parts from UMS successfully.
They took some time, unfortunately,
Lars

Maxam, what starter would you recommend for the EVO7260 engine?
The Miller's won't turn it over I don't think.
Coleman makes a geared starter that will definitely turn it over, ever used one?
Have tried a Magnatron, wouldn't even budge it.

The miller easily starts my Moki 215 so it should even easier start the 260!

I finished my monocoupe 110 with the Evolution 7-35 in it, I will tell you about the maiden. It has been converted to glow CDI

I am still unable to start my 9-99. Today after removing the engine from the model I adjusted the mixture control according to the Pegasus manual. I can blow air thru the carb with the mixture screw out 2 turns with the throttle set low. My ignition system appears to be working. If I remove plug it lights up when held against the engine. Turning the engine over with a large electric starter I get fuel blowing out of the exhaust. If I turn the prop by hand I can feel several "bumps" like a glow plug is igniting some fuel, but no start. I adjusted the valves at the end of last season before putting the model away Over the winter I installed the the Pegasus carb. I have yet to test the fuel which I mixed last season 1/2 methanol and 1/2 Wildcat 15% I am using on board glo with a 5000 MA battery supplemented by 5000 MA booster. The model a Ziroli 87 inch Stearman flew very well last year with the original carb Any thoughts?.

I am considering installing a solo prop hub and 2 blade propeller. It weighs 13oz complete do you think the performance of the evolution 735 will suffer with it installed?

Put the original carb back on and test the engine. If it ran last year with that carb then maybe the new carb is the problem. Al least you are eliminating ignition etc.

Thanks Bob,

A friend of mine suggested the same thing. Today we eliminated the fuel being a problem. As you can imagine my non starting engine , is a favorite topic of conversation at my flying field. One remark, somewhat humorous " put in a small boat it will make a good anchor" I shall not try that. I will try readjusting the valve lash, than change back to the old carb.. If none of that works I may be tempted to buy a small boat and put some other engine in the Stearman.

IIn regard to my non starting UMS 9-9 9

I have determined that the ignition system , including batteries and plugs , is OK. The fuel is OK. The new Pegasus carb was reset to factory manual specs and admits fuel to the engine at low throttle. All of the rocker arms appear to be operating in proper order, The engine feels smooth when turned over by hand. Raw fuel comes out of the exhaust when turned over with an electric starter. Still no start.
Last season, when the engine ran fine, the fuel was run out of it and air tool oil and after run oil w ere injected, at the end of each flying session. The engine was turned over by hand at least once per week all winter when sitting in my shop. After all this attention and many hours of trouble shooting this season the engine remains in a useless condition. I have given up trying to start it. I would much rather spend my time flying. Thankfully I have a number of other 1/4 and 1/3 scale models with engines which have remained trouble free over the years

Does anyone know of a service provider to whom it I could send this radial?






the engine feels

J, I would be happy to look at it and test run it. -Tom

Dear Tom,
It is most gracious of you to offer. A friend of mine now has the model and is in the process of resetting the valves. All of your posts been extremely helpful in trouble shooting this problem. I am quite sure at this point that something I must have done is basically wrong. Others who have installed the Pegasus carb have been very happy with it. A fresh set of eyes often sees things that were previously unseen. If my friend can't make it run, I will take you up on your offer. Shall I PM you if I decide to ship the engine?

Sure, that would be fine. Or here I will see it more likely.