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Old 05-17-2014, 05:44 AM
  #26526  
skypup50
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Originally Posted by SrTelemaster150
Ever hear of Fennelton? About 1/2 way between Butler & Kittaning just off old Rt 422.

Named after my family, but they left 1 "L" off.

I was born in Butler County Memorial Hospital.
I'm familiar with Butler and had a grandfather who spent time at a VA hospital there many years ago. Had a boss from Kittaning and also went through the police academy with someone from Kittaning. Worked in Pa and Ohio for 20 plus years and ended up in San Antonio 11 years ago. I miss rain, water,streams,lakes and tall trees!
Old 05-17-2014, 08:21 AM
  #26527  
Hobbsy
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I pulled tractors in Butler and Big Knob, my nephew has a HotDog Shoppe in Butler. I haven't heard of Fennelton but will learn about it. If my brothers and I ride up to Zanotti's HD I might have to go there just to say I did. I had relatives in Kittaning, their name was Quigley My Dad had a cousin in Kittaning named Sharon Hull who sold Miller Falls equipment.

Last edited by Hobbsy; 05-17-2014 at 08:25 AM.
Old 05-17-2014, 09:02 AM
  #26528  
taildragger1589
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Originally Posted by skypup50
How do I learn to do it and where do I get the components?
http://www.ch-ignitions.com/

Look around the sight, there are lots of hidden suggestions, hints and how to vids.
Old 05-17-2014, 10:52 AM
  #26529  
Hobbsy
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Ok Saito friends, I just ran the 1.00 with its new bearings, not for the first tiem though but the first time with a Zoar 15x6. Some of you more experienced 1.00 persons will have to say whether my rpm are good. It is not todays picture

Saito 1.00 plain
Fuel=====WildCat 15% with 80/20 syn/castor blend
Plug=====new Taipan 4c plug
Exhaust=== stock cast muffler
Prop=====Zoar 15x6
Max rpm ===8,950
Idle, nice slightly lopey 1,850

Maybe tomorrow I can get to the Zoar 14x7 and the TurboHeader with both props.
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Old 05-17-2014, 12:28 PM
  #26530  
triumphman49
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How do you tell the "high compression" version of the FA150. My NIB CH converted FA150 came in the old black and gold box that always seemed to fall apart. I've got 2 intakes and 2 carbs, so I can easily run gas or glow.

T-man49
Club Saito #723
Old 05-17-2014, 04:15 PM
  #26531  
charlie1960
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All I can comment on is my 1.00 runs 9400-9600 with VP 20-20 and a MA 14x8.
Old 05-17-2014, 05:00 PM
  #26532  
SrTelemaster150
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
I pulled tractors in Butler and Big Knob, my nephew has a HotDog Shoppe in Butler. I haven't heard of Fennelton but will learn about it. If my brothers and I ride up to Zanotti's HD I might have to go there just to say I did. I had relatives in Kittaning, their name was Quigley My Dad had a cousin in Kittaning named Sharon Hull who sold Miller Falls equipment.
As you are going towards Kittaning from Butler, turn lleft off 422 East on the S. Clearfield Rd. At the 1st crossroad you'll see the Clearfileld Township School where I went to grades 1-3.

Continue on to Fennelton. Don't blink your eyes or you might miss it!

Turn west @the crossroads where the Methodist church is located. Go 2 miles & as you pass the fork that goes off to the right. Look to your left & you will see the house I lived in from October of 1950 until June of 1959.
Old 05-17-2014, 05:22 PM
  #26533  
Hobbsy
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T-man, the very first ones made were very high compression, they were black with chrome rocker covers. There is no letter designation on the right lug.

Thanks Charlie, I think I'll get better results with the 14x7 then.

Thanks Dan, if we go up toward Butler, I'll have a look.
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Old 05-17-2014, 05:26 PM
  #26534  
SrTelemaster150
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Dave, I needed to do get some shrink tube to do a few finishing touches to your module so I didn't make it to the post office this morning.

That did give me the opportunity to mount my FA-150 to my test stand & I fired it up W/your module.

I couldn't find my 16x8 Zinger propeller but I made pulls W/the 18X8 Dynathrust & an 18X6 Zinger.

With the timing set @ 35* BTDC, the 18X8 was spinning 7500 RPM @ WOT & reliable idle was about 1200 RPM.

The 18X6 Zinger picked up another 200 RPM spinning up to 7700 RPM, but the lighter wooden propeller would stall if idle was dropped much below 1400.

Conditions weren't ideal for maximum power output.

Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 05-17-2014 at 05:31 PM.
Old 05-17-2014, 05:30 PM
  #26535  
SrTelemaster150
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
T-man, the very first ones made were very high compression, they were black with chrome rocker covers. There is no letter designation on the right lug.
What was different on the high compression version?

Rod length, piston compression height or something else?

I would love to dismantle & compare geometry W/a latter version.
Old 05-17-2014, 05:42 PM
  #26536  
blw
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Originally Posted by Left-Hand-Dan
Is the technique for removing bearings the same as on 2 strokes?
You have an extra step with the cam shaft on 4 strokes. The crankcase quality and fit on Saitos is better than most 2 strokes.
Old 05-17-2014, 05:44 PM
  #26537  
Hobbsy
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http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Eng...o%20FA-150.pdf

Here is a test of an engine similar to mine but I don't know if it's exactly the same. Thanks for checking the module out. Mr. Lee says this one is 11.21 to 1. Somewhere I learned that mine is 14.56 to 1. I know that my old .80 is 15.5 to 1.
Old 05-18-2014, 02:00 AM
  #26538  
SrTelemaster150
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Eng...o%20FA-150.pdf

Here is a test of an engine similar to mine but I don't know if it's exactly the same. Thanks for checking the module out. Mr. Lee says this one is 11.21 to 1. Somewhere I learned that mine is 14.56 to 1. I know that my old .80 is 15.5 to 1.
Comparing Mr. Lee's 7400 RPM to my results of 7700 RPM W/the 18X8 Zinger follows the usual power improvements of CDI over GI.

Have you ever checked the chamber volume? You can get calibrated syringes for dosing infant medication @ the drug store.

For 14.6:1 the chamber volume @ TDC should be about 1.84cc.

CH-Ignitions provide a .020" cylinder base shim to lower CR on those older high compression FA-150s. That would bring compression back to about 10.1:1. Of course converting to CDI allows excellent user friendliness even @ higher CRs.

I had to use one of those shims when I used the 180 crank & top end in the .055" shorter FA-150 case.

Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 05-18-2014 at 02:15 AM.
Old 05-18-2014, 03:12 AM
  #26539  
Rudolph Hart
 
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We know that cdi is way better than gi ignition efficiency wise,smells and sounds the same.
Old 05-19-2014, 10:44 AM
  #26540  
Cougar429
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Finally had time from our landscaping the back yard to fire up the second 125a mounted to the WACO, (this is the one I found at a swap meet for $80). One heck of a time getting it set as I have nearly 5 1/2 turns out on HS to get full RPM. LS is close to even with the barrel housing, but still below the throttle arm surface. Carb might be a bit wonked. A new glow plug helped, as well.

Now I can idle for quite a while and still have good transition. Only problem solo is this is a relatively large plane and hard to hold the nose up and work the needle one-handed. Will have to wait for the first visit to the field. With the rain that may not be a bit yet.

p.s. In fact this is the first spin up since last Fall and the fuel may be a tad limp.
Old 05-22-2014, 01:03 PM
  #26541  
Hobbsy
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Pete, Cougar, 1Q and others, I converted my 1.50 to C&H Ignition today thanks to Dan switching the end to a 120 degree clip. All it needs is to re-install the carb and exhaust. The degree whell is a 10" one I found on line and smallified to the more manageable size you see, the pointer is a 1/32" control rod bent to suit and Thick CA'd into a piece of basswood. Homemade aids are just part of the hobby fun. I have it set to 35 degrees BTDC. The pointer lays in the groove between the two center cooling fins.
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Last edited by Hobbsy; 05-22-2014 at 01:14 PM.
Old 05-22-2014, 01:40 PM
  #26542  
Cougar429
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Looks good, I had a degree wheel similar to that we made as a project in AME school. Sure it's here somewhere......
Old 05-22-2014, 01:49 PM
  #26543  
Hobbsy
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I should have printed that wheel on the back side of the photo paper, its really tough to get a picture of the shiny side.
Old 05-22-2014, 04:52 PM
  #26544  
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My time rite has a degree dwell as part of the kit. Pity the compression testers don't fit saito plug holes though
Old 05-23-2014, 01:41 AM
  #26545  
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Can you get a compression gauge for saito's and if so how many revs would you spin the motor at with a starter?

Dave that looks like a good set up will be interested to hear what you think of the results.Just watched a vid of two tractors back to back with 10mtrs of chain between them.The circa 1880 steam engine with 18hp was dragging a modern 850hp diesel backwards.

ps they do make harleys look attractive
Old 05-23-2014, 02:58 AM
  #26546  
SrTelemaster150
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Originally Posted by Old Fart
Can you get a compression gauge for saito's and if so how many revs would you spin the motor at with a starter?

Dave that looks like a good set up will be interested to hear what you think of the results.
That magnet ring & hall sensor/mount are from my 1st CH-Electronics CDI system that I purchased for my FA-150 way back in 1997.
Old 05-23-2014, 03:55 AM
  #26547  
Hobbsy
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I have a 1991 C&H unit without synchro, it has a clip for a Maloney spark plug. The clip would have to be changed to use it on the 1/4" plug. I have a separate module for it for synchro, in fact I have two of the modules, one has three leads on it. So Dan, my unit and your trigger assembly are from the same year. That ring is sort of, "stretchy" or I'd never have gotten it on there. It will never move by itself.

Pete, my DynaTron spins some engines faster than they normally idle using a 310 amp battery. That steam traction engine probably weighed 25 tons. I've seen a 120 hp Case several times over the years.

I never bought one of the compression gauges when they were available.
Old 05-23-2014, 05:23 AM
  #26548  
Jim Branaum
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
I should have printed that wheel on the back side of the photo paper, its really tough to get a picture of the shiny side.
In 1996 I saw what I thought was a neat twin 3 inch engine at Toledo, so I bought it. After replacing the ignition module 3 times I converted to C&H and had to retime the spark. I printed my wheel on plain paper and glued it to the inside of a cereal carton. That twin works, but is something I regret buying. Should have bought the 3W..
Old 05-23-2014, 05:37 PM
  #26549  
jeffEE
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I just bought a NIB Saito 2.20. Now I have a pair of them. Any ideas for a big air frame for twins? And how great would twin 2.20s sound?
Old 05-23-2014, 05:45 PM
  #26550  
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oops double post sorry

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