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Old 06-17-2014, 04:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
Pete, about 10 years ago my brothers and I went to the Expo Center where the Indiana Pacers play to a Race Car equipment expo. I bought a quart of nitro methane. The instructions say to use one once per gallon of gasoline. I put an oz into a gallon of WildCat 15% Premium Extra. I noticed no improvement.
1oz to a gallon is less than .08%. It's not surprising that there was no noticeable improvement.

Add 12oz to a gallon I'lll bet you would notice!
Old 06-17-2014, 05:49 AM
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Dan, it appears that I no longer have the nitro methane but I still have its companion product, this stuff smells like a million power banana. It's the one that says one oz per gallon. Well started on one side of the Tele fuse and it's perfectly straight. It kinda looks like a mess but the stuff is pretty much in the order I'll need it.
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Old 06-17-2014, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by FNQFLYER
I have just started back building. A Great Planes Super Sporster 40.
You are going to love the Sportster!
Here's a Picture of #1 Son holding ours in 1985. (he's now 37!)
It was smooth and stable had a wide range of speeds without pitch changes and was pretty fast with it's K&B .40.

I've been doing the nostalgia thing myself this year.
We restored a 1988 Taube .40 to test the new Saito FG11 and it flew so well at 1/2 throttle we loaded the taube to 8 lbs to see if it would have the power to fly something faster and heavier....
It's now on the nose of the Smith miniplane (also restored from 1988 ) in the 2nd picture.
We're having a blast with it.
If you want to see it fly, I have a vid comparing the12/8 prop to the 13/8, for those who've asked which is better.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...-build-47.html (Bottom of the page)

Nick
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Old 06-17-2014, 03:32 PM
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I actually had a Sportster in Malaysia, given to me by one of our pilots (ex pat Ozzie) and we flew it with a Saito 50 in it. It had a flap mod done with 1/3 ailerons 2/3 flaps which made its short field performance unreal, better than the standard one flying at the same time. This build will be a warm up for up to 10 scale kits siting in boxes awaiting my "real" retirement and no to mention the O/T models waiting my attention. yes I am looking forward to the future, the retirement I have planned for is almost here and combined with my old a/c mates (both 1:1 and modelling) life is starting to look good again. Just got to get old fart over hear to show him what he is missing
Old 06-18-2014, 01:15 AM
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Taildragger you obviously know your saito's if you can tune and run them well inverted.Fnq the only thing i'm missing is warm sunshine.

Dave i met and talked to johnny rutherford when he was racing midgets (speedcars! ) here in aus and new zealand at western springs.If not the best driver ever he was close,can't remember if his car was powered by a flat four vw or an offie.
Old 06-18-2014, 03:48 AM
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Man! You guys are killiing me!! ya'll talking about planes that l had in the good old days! l have had three Sig Smith Minne Planes, two GP Super Sporters, the frist Super Sporters l had was a 0.20 size that l had a O.S.FP0.40 on.. l lurned how to fly slow inverted what they call (inverted harrers) now. My brother and l had two Bryan F16's. mine had a Rossi 0.65 and my brother's had a Think it was a K&B 0.77? His was a POS! Took the hole runwas to get off the ground. Funny! We had a 350ft asfoult runway with 500ft grass on the east end and about 200 grass on the west end and at the end there was woods. We where flying on a land fill and it had setteld and there was a ski jump (HILL) on the west end every time he would shut it down, it would hit that ski jump and go airborn. Mine (we both started in the grass) would take off about mid field! Think his wade more than mine? but! They had to go! Took three people to start them! One to hold it inverted in the stand (engine hole was in the botom) one to run-tune the engine and one to shove a long tub up it's *** to start it! MAN! IT SUCKED! I guess thats showing my age? Meny plane's have come and gone. Think in 40+ yrs l have them all. l still keep a old Tower Hobbes in the readding room (Bath Room) LOL.... When l started, we had a hobby shop at the end of my street. My brother was flying the 4Ch 0.40 Genson Stick and l was flying a $1.29 .049 CL Goldberg Baby Ring Master. The Planes like old cars, if l still had them,Well! The old cars, l could sell them and be a ritch man! The planes would be just old crap! LOL.... l remember my first 0.40 size plane, seem'd relly BIG! lt was a Grate Planes Trainer 60 with a FP 40, now l'm flying yard sticks to 35% Carden, Aerroworks, Etc. No telling what the'll be flying in 50 more years??

Last edited by slamn sammy; 06-18-2014 at 03:54 AM.
Old 06-18-2014, 05:31 AM
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OK couple Saito questions. I installed my 100 GK in my P-51 last night and first time I really looked at it up close. I bought this at a swap meet last year and never fired it up. It looks brand new.


First is this normal? There is a threaded opening on the front of the timing cover, it appears to have a set screw way at the bottom.



Second, where the tank is and where the carb is, will I have problems? Note this is inverted, the fuse it sitting belly up.





Third, this vent at the back of the case, should I have a line on it going to the bottom of the cowl or just leave it without one? It had a line on it to the carb fuel inlet.









I have a 14x6 and 14x8 MAS prop for it, couldn't find a 10, so thinking the 8 would probably be OK for this plane to start with. Yes?
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Old 06-18-2014, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by acdii
OK couple Saito questions. I installed my 100 GK in my P-51 last night and first time I really looked at it up close. I bought this at a swap meet last year and never fired it up. It looks brand new.
Looks can be deceiving. I would start the engine on a test stand or @ least run it & tune it before yo do any cowl installation.

Originally Posted by acdii
First is this normal? There is a threaded opening on the front of the timing cover, it appears to have a set screw way at the bottom.


Yes the set screw secures the shaft that runs through the cam.



Originally Posted by acdii
Second, where the tank is and where the carb is, will I have problems? Note this is inverted, the fuse it sitting belly up.


As long as the C/L of the carburetor spray bar is within 1/2" of the C/L of the tank you should be OK.



Originally Posted by acdii
Third, this vent at the back of the case, should I have a line on it going to the bottom of the cowl or just leave it without one? It had a line on it to the carb fuel inlet.




Just run it out the bottom of the cowl. The original owner probably ran the line to the spray bar to keep dirt out of e crankcase & spray bar. That is a good sign that the original owner took care of the engine.



Originally Posted by acdii
I have a 14x6 and 14x8 MAS prop for it, couldn't find a 10, so thinking the 8 would probably be OK for this plane to start with. Yes?

14 X 8 is listed as minimum. Be careful that you don't over-rev it.

Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 06-18-2014 at 06:12 AM.
Old 06-18-2014, 07:19 AM
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Thanks, I dont plan on running with the cowl on until I know the engine is running right(Chipmunk taught me that one). I am also putting a remote glow setup on it, reaching under the plane with that sharp spinning prop scares the crap out of me. When I was at the SIG flyin, I watched a guy pick up a plane with the engine running and walk through a crowd of people with it. They had just landed and all I could think, you didn't program a kill switch? and you are carrying a running engine? I watched another guy hand start a plane with no glove and no chicken stick. I cringed.

That tank is within 1/2" by the looks of it, but I will double check it. I sure hope it is since its locked in place and moving it down would require major surgery, which defeats the purpose of being an ARF. I also need to flip the carb 180* since the throttle arm is in the middle and needs to be on the outside where the linkage is, at least I hope I can flip it like I did with the OS and Magnums.

I really need to build a test stand. I plan to get lumber for a run up bench, and might as well incorporate some sort of engine base on it too.
Old 06-18-2014, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by acdii
Thanks, I dont plan on running with the cowl on until I know the engine is running right(Chipmunk taught me that one). I am also putting a remote glow setup on it, reaching under the plane with that sharp spinning prop scares the crap out of me. I watched another guy hand start a plane with no glove and no chicken stick.

Spend a few $$ more & convert to CDI. With glow fuel it will gain you a few hundred RPM, improve fuel economy by 25%, start easier, eliminates kickback & idle slower.

http://youtu.be/5xaiAR8Yelc

Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 06-18-2014 at 07:57 AM.
Old 06-18-2014, 09:28 AM
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Default Glow Plug thread size and after-run oil

I have a Saito 72 that is a bit difficult to screw the glow plug into the head. On another forum, I read the tap size was 1/4 - 32. By chance, I chatted with a rep from Horizon. He was "almost certain" the threads were 1/4 - 28. My hope was to use the tap to try and clean the threads. (I can see where the first thread is a bit damaged.) Does anyone know for certain?

I have been removing the plug to add a few drops of after-run oil (besides the oil I put into the crankcase vent). On the Saito engine site it mentions to NOT regularly remove the plug to add oil. Opinions?

Thank you.
Old 06-18-2014, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by tarcure
I have a Saito 72 that is a bit difficult to screw the glow plug into the head. On another forum, I read the tap size was 1/4 - 32. By chance, I chatted with a rep from Horizon. He was "almost certain" the threads were 1/4 - 28. My hope was to use the tap to try and clean the threads. (I can see where the first thread is a bit damaged.) Does anyone know for certain?

I have been removing the plug to add a few drops of after-run oil (besides the oil I put into the crankcase vent). On the Saito engine site it mentions to NOT regularly remove the plug to add oil. Opinions?

Thank you.
Glow plug threads are 1/4-32.
Before you run a 1/4-28 tap thru that engine, just send it to me.

Ken
Old 06-18-2014, 12:02 PM
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Gotta love those "REPS" that are totally clueless.
Old 06-18-2014, 12:54 PM
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Tar, It is a complete waste of time to put aro in the glow plug hole, there is nowhere for it to go except back out the exhaust port. It's a good way to bust a cylinder if you get too much in there.

Be very careful that the flawed threads don't cause the tap to start crooked, it will remove all the threads if started crooked.
Old 06-18-2014, 04:29 PM
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Acdc sometimes it's easier to start the engine while the plane is upside down till you get the hang of that engine and fuel tank relationship re tuning sorted.Good luck the engine mounting looks good.
Old 06-18-2014, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Old Fart
Taildragger you obviously know your saito's if you can tune and run them well inverted.
All it takes it finding out what makes your engine happy.

The little cub had an OS 40 FS
The big stampe had the OS 120 FS out of the Quarter scale Cub.
The P40 had an OS 90 FS
and the Ryan had an Enya 80 FS.

All of them were inverted, all of them idled reliably and ran well using the same tuning/starting method:
Tune them 2 clicks rich from peak with the nose pointed straight up.
Tune the idle slightly lean, (I never idled until I was nose down landing)

The starting sequence was the same for all of the engines.
Choke thru compression 3 times (6 turns)
Flip once to check for hydraulic lock
hook up the battery and flip backwards against compression.
On the Ryan, you could just turn the spinner backwards and it would start.
That always got some double takes.

Nick
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Old 06-18-2014, 06:09 PM
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hook up the battery and flip backwards against compression.
I had a magnum 52 that started like that. The 91 that is in my Chipmunk, when in the other plane also did, but something changed between that plane the the chipmunk.
Old 06-18-2014, 06:16 PM
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If the fuel line from the tank to the carb got a little longer, it might need one more turn of choke.
Old 06-19-2014, 03:22 AM
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All it takes it finding out what makes your engine happy., (QUOTE BY TAILDRAGGER)

Engines are a little like women, you have to figure out what they're not telling you as well.
Old 06-19-2014, 05:35 AM
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Ok but the emphasis would be on 'a little' because saito engines don't want to commit suicide once a month unless you run them a 'bit lean'

Plus they (saito's) don't mind being tuned by someone else,in fact,they usually enjoy it and with a little preparation they can be left on a shelf for months.I rest my case

ps whoever said you can flick spinners backwards and start a saito ain't no orphan
Old 06-19-2014, 07:25 AM
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An airplane will kill you quick...a woman takes her time.
Old 06-19-2014, 07:41 AM
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I hard that! One try'd for 30yr's! LOL.... Did not work, althow, it could of worked.
Old 06-19-2014, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Old Fart
Ok but the emphasis would be on 'a little' because saito engines don't want to commit suicide once a month
Nope!
In my case, it's the receiver, the Saito was just an unwilling passenger.

Nick

PS. I guess I ain't no orphan...
PPS. Excuse all the OS pics, we didn't have Saitos available back then. Enya was the new kid on the FS block.

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Old 06-19-2014, 04:19 PM
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I agree with flyingagin, it's a 1/4"-32. I happen to have a 1/4"-32 tap. They're available, but you have to look hard. One source is McMaster-Carr www.mcmaster.com to find one. If your engine is apart you could ship the head to me and I could run the tap through it, but you'll have to excuse me if I don't volunteer to send my tap out to you :-)

I do beg to differ with the ARO. I do toss a few drops down the glow plug hole as well as through the vent line on the bottom of the engine. I like the fact that it's coating the cylinder walls and top of piston, removing traces of the fuel. But, I don't want to get into a debate about that. It's just a personal preference.
Old 06-19-2014, 07:20 PM
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One point to make with the case vent line is you want it as short and/or as large a diameter as possible. This is to allow for case contaminants to exit and not get sucked back if they don't make it to the end of the line before negative case pressure draws it all back in.

I found some thin-walled black plastic tubing somewhere along the line and silicone tubing stretches enough to go from the case fitting to over the pipe. This is far larger than the ID of that case fitting and reduces both back pressure and the chance to pull the crud back in. Still try to keep it as short as I can.

I can confirm plug threads are 1/4-32. Had to special order mine, (think the cost was approx $14) and even a second when the first was misplaced. Wouldn't you know it, right after delivery found the original.

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