crazy4planes2000

Hi.

I’m sorry to go off topic, but here goes. I’m currently building a stand off scale Velie Monocoupe. Sixty inch w/span which makes it exactly 1/6th scale. It’s going to be powered by a Saito 45. My problem is I can’t find anyone in the UK that can supply “dummy cylinders” to make the replica radial engine[&o]. Do any of you fellow Club Saito members know of a solution???

Thanks,

Garry (Crazy4planes2000)

Ernie Misner

In another thread somewhere, someone said they were having success running their saitos with a straight pipe, and using tank pressure by placing a T fitting in the crankcase breather tube, and running off of that to the tank. Does this sound workable?

Thanks,

Ernie

William Robison

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Crazy Garry:

The Williams Brothers plastic engines are back in production, making the Wright cylinders in both 1/5 and 1/6 scale. They wont look exactly like the original Warner engine, but you did say "Semi scale."

I don't know the company name, perhaps a Google search will find them.
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Ernie:

The disadvantage of crankcase pressure is its not dropping at idle as muffler pressure does, this makes the LS mixture adjustment a real bear unless regulator is used. Give it shot, let us know how it works.

Bill.

William Robison

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OK all, here's the pump post.

There are two basic versions of the Perry pump, the VP-20 “Shaker” pump operated by engine vibration and the VP-30 which uses pressure pulses from the crank case to operate. Usually, the VP-20 is used with a four stroke engine and the VP-30 with a two stroke. Sometimes, for whatever reason, people want to use the VP-30 pump with a four stroke engine.

Since most four stroke engines require a vent to the atmosphere, some alteration of the standard pump installation has to be made, and the adjustment of the pump is slightly different from the instructions included with the pump.

First, as the instructions state, mount the pump as close to the engine as practical, and use the supplied hose to connect the pump to the crank case vent nipple. Only one caveat here, if the pump is mounted behind and in line with the crank case use at least a one inch spacing between the engine and the pump.

Now with the pump positioned cut the red hose and insert a tee, use the largest bore tee you can get to go in the red hose. Warming the red hose will help, put the straight legs in the red hose, the case vent hose will go on the tail. The vent can be regular silicone fuel hose, but keep the stiff red between the engine and the pump if possible – the pump will work much better.

Red hose? It is a very stiff hose that does not tend to balloon with the pressure. Normal silicone will absorb some of the peak pressure pulses, use silicone hose as a last resort.

Now we get to the fun part. Adjusting the pump.

Strong advice – have your engine fully broken in, and the needles set for a normal tank with muffler pressure. The first time you set up one of these pumps you don’t need to be worrying about the engine as well.

Remember please, to plug the muffler pressure port and use only an atmospheric vent into the fuel tank, adding muffler pressure is another complication you don’t need.

Now with a length of silicone hose (try six inches to start) on the tee for the case vent, start the engine. Let it warm up, then go to full throttle. Ideally it will take about twice as many clicks to reach peak as it did with muffler pressure. If it takes more than a full turn to reach peak cut an inch off the vent hose. Huh? Right. The restriction in the vent hose is controlling the pressure pulses into the pump, and therefore how strongly the pump is working.

If you find the mixture too lean on first running you have two options. Try doubling the length of the vent hose, or put a restrictor in the vent hose. An ordinary remote needle valve can be used, if one is handy. An alternate is a short length of brass or aluminum tubing, pinch it a little at a time to increase the restriction. The needle has the advantage of being adjustable for both more and less restriction. In other words mistakes can be corrected more easily.

Once you have the high speed set as we want, adjust the low speed in the normal manner, checking both for good idle and good transition. If all is well, you have finished.

Now you may wonder about the pressure regulating screw in the pump. So far we’ve not touched it. We will use it for fine tuning only if needed.

After the low and high speeds are running nicely check the mid range. The pump pressure regulator will have the greatest effect from mid to ¾ throttle on the Saito two needle carb, if too low the engine will tend to stumble a bit going from mid to full, too high the response will be slow. And it’s really hard sometimes to tell the difference. Pinch test time. With the engine running a little over ½ throttle pinch the hose between the pump and the carb. We want the rpm to rise just a little, 50-100 rpm, before it falls off. If it rises too much turn the pump regulator screw out about ¼ turn and try it again. If it falls immediately turn the regulator screw in about the same amount and recheck. Please note also, this will affect both the low and high needles, you’ll have to check them with every change of pump pressure. And this is where many people decide it’s “Good enough.” It can be a bear.

There are many advantages to using the pump, including being able to put the tank anywhere it’s convenient and not worrying about fuel feed, the engine can be run closer to peak mixture since you don’t have to worry about going lean with a low fuel level or a nose up attitude, and so forth.

It can take a while to get everything right, but when it’s done I think you will be well satisfied.

Bill.

Thunderchild

Gentlemen (and Ladyflyer of course!)

Some assitance please:

It appears that my darling wife has agreed to my acquiring an FA-325R5D and I would like some suggestions for a suitable airframe to house this gem. Just how big an airframe do I need?

My leaning is towards a Stinson Reliant type or similar era. Does anyone know of a kit or kits or plans to suit my purpose?

Any suggestions would be most gratefully considered.

A very happy TC

lrr

I'm not sure about an airframe, but I'd highly recommend flowers for that special lady while you are pondering the selection ...



Lee

Thunderchild

Dinner Friday evening

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

TC:

When the Top Flight Stinson sr-9 came out I had an OS radial in one. The engine was heavy, the combination was a little under powered but it flew nicely. The FA-325R5 is lighter andn more powerful, should make a nice model.

Bill.

Thunderchild

Thanks Bill, I was looking at that.

Will the R5 fit under the cowl of the TF Stinson?

TC

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

TC, have a look at Teryn's 325 powered Aero-Works Stearman. It is an ARF also so easy to get flying sooner than later.

http://aero-works.net/store/images/u...stearman03.wmv

http://aero-works.net/store/images/u...stearman04.wmv

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

TC:

The OS radial was a very tight fit. I had to do some digging to find he size, finally did, the OS is 234 mm diameter. The Saito FA-325R5 is 225 mm. Should fit fine.

Bill.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

New addition to my hangar.

Thunderchild

Hi Kmot

Aren't they beautiful videos? Yeah I have sen these before, but as I already have a Great Planes Super Stearman with the 170R3 installed, I figured another biplane was a bit much.

Thanks for the suggestion though - please keep them coming!

TC

William Robison

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Tom:

Very pretty. Is it the fa-60T or the FA-90TS?

Bill.

olds455

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Hello, i have an update and some questions. I got the Passion 3d out today and the 80 fired up and ran great. I left on the 13x6 apc and was able to peak at 10600 and then went rich to 10400. I could get the idle to 2500 and it was reliable enough that i LEFT THE ON BOARD GLOW DRIVER disconnected. I think Ill take it out if the motor runs well again. The plane could hover at 1/2 or slighly over and the plane would climb vertical but its no rocket ship.My questions are.........
Is the 13x6 overreving at that rpm?
I tried the MA wood 14x6 ( its wide compared to a power point but not labled wide )again and couldnt get anymore than 8600rpm and it ran like garbage. Put the 13x6 back on and it runs great.
Is the 14x6 to much for the 80?
Props noted on this site isnt for the .80......... http://www.saito-engines.info/prop_sizes.html
I had a 13x4 but ididnt think that was near enough.
Maybe a 14x4 wide?
I loved the way the plane flew. I only have about 20min total time on the airframe. I would like to make it more efficent. its just a tad nose heavy and if I remove the glow driver it would help it in that respect. I do have the .91 I bought for it but since it flew so well ill probaly sell it.

Thanks ahead for any suggestions and input!

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Bill, it is the 90TS. I was going to get the 60. But it's still backordered. Then I read the specs on the 90. Decided I wanted it instead and it was in stock. Got a good deal from Chief.

TC: can you post a couple pics of the 170 radial mounted in your GP Stearman?

Thunderchild

Hi Kmot,

Apologies, I am getting ahead of myself. The Stearman is still in its box. I just removed the 170R3 from a P47 as it did not fit properly. I had to butcher the cowl too much, so gave it a big miss. Bought a 120S (and a new cowl) for the P47 though. Mixed up two birds and there you have "fitted" instead of "earmarked"!!

Here she was in the Tbolt:

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

TC: How about a Wirraway? The Saito 325 radial would be nice in that!

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Well, too bad it had to get hacked up (P-47) but at least you got another Saito for it. You are doing alright mate! Your wifey is a peach!

Thunderchild

Kmot

Wirraway would be nice. However, there are a bucket load of T-6's and variants about our field and a Wiraway would get "lost" or worse still, mistaken amongst this gaggle. I was looking for something unique and Bill's suggestion of the Reliant still has me hooked for its sheer beauty.

I also like this:

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Oh, okay. I gotcha now. Classic high wing. Well, my favorite high wing is a Cessna 195. For a classic low wing (if you would consider a low wing) my favorite is the Spartan Executive. Actually, there are so many beautiful radial powered airplanes it makes it really difficult to choose just one! At least you will have that Saito 325-R in your hot little hands, and you can always run it up on the test stand.

Thunderchild

Ah Yes (sigh), but where to obtain a kit or plans?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Lets get back to Saito's. This is the Saito thread.

If you guy's want to ramble, go to the CLUB HOUSE.

Jim Moderator

olds455

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Any thoughts to post #2904?

William Robison

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TC:

The Monocoupe is a pretty plane, but if the model flies like the full scale one it's going to be a touchy beast. You might consider the Harlow PJC-2, a really sleek plane that was never made in quantity - WW2 killed it. Or another is the Howard DGA-14. Second picture is one I used to have a piece of. It was a bit persnickety about pilot skills too, but not as bad as Velie's Monocoupe with the 145 Warner engine.

I don't know if plans are available for any of these, but they're interesting all the same.

And if you build from scratch you can't use anyine else's plans anyway.

Bill.