Welcome to Club SAITO !
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
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Yes, I retained full motion but the finger tips of the index finger and bird finger are numb. Part of the end of the bird finger is missing. When you touch the scars on my thumb, it tingles as if you were being shocked by electricity. It's difficult to pick up a push pin with numb fingers. I magnetized several of my tools to aid in picking up things and inserting the short back plate screws for example. That OS 62-v brought good money, they have a great reputation.I replaced it with a brand new Saito 62. The 62 resides where the 56 is sitting.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 07-21-2019 at 02:38 AM.
Saito FA82 CR Mod (disadvantages?)
So far there has been only one disadvantage to raising the compression ratio of this FA82 from the factory 9:1 to 11.75:1, an overly rich midrange. This is to be expected as the higher compression ratio brings greater efficiency (denser fuel charge) especially at midrange rpms. This can be tuned out however only if you're willing to settle for higher idle rpm.
The engine will idle at 1800 rpm all day if the lsn is richened for that but midrange suffers from an overly rich condition. Adjusting the lsn while idling at 2100 however requires a leaner setting which in turn cleans the midrange up some. Adjusting the lsn while idling at 2500 completely cures an overly rich midrange condition. The smoke trail looks very consistent now throughout the rpm range and the engine transition is snappy at all rpms.
I love the puttering sound of a Saito idling below 2000 rpm but oh well, It is what it is, glow ignition.
The engine will idle at 1800 rpm all day if the lsn is richened for that but midrange suffers from an overly rich condition. Adjusting the lsn while idling at 2100 however requires a leaner setting which in turn cleans the midrange up some. Adjusting the lsn while idling at 2500 completely cures an overly rich midrange condition. The smoke trail looks very consistent now throughout the rpm range and the engine transition is snappy at all rpms.
I love the puttering sound of a Saito idling below 2000 rpm but oh well, It is what it is, glow ignition.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 07-21-2019 at 03:48 AM.
Dave,
Seemed like every time I started work at a new shop, the guy who operated the press brake was easiest to find. He was always missing at least one finger or thumb. We had a new kid lose both hands at the wrist on his first day. He was only 19.
Lucky you play with toy airplanes.
Hard to think how messed up you may have become had you spent 55 years working with metal working presses and machinery
The kid doing the production work in the above is a very dangerous operator. Hopefully he comes to learn his errors without paying for the lessons!
Seemed like every time I started work at a new shop, the guy who operated the press brake was easiest to find. He was always missing at least one finger or thumb. We had a new kid lose both hands at the wrist on his first day. He was only 19.
Lucky you play with toy airplanes.
Hard to think how messed up you may have become had you spent 55 years working with metal working presses and machinery
The kid doing the production work in the above is a very dangerous operator. Hopefully he comes to learn his errors without paying for the lessons!
Last edited by Jesse Open; 07-21-2019 at 05:57 AM.
Yes, I retained full motion but the finger tips of the index finger and bird finger are numb. Part of the end of the bird finger is missing. When you touch the scars on my thumb, it tingles as if you were being shocked by electricity. It's difficult to pick up a push pin with numb fingers. I magnetized several of my tools to aid in picking up things and inserting the short back plate screws for example. That OS 62-v brought good money, they have a great reputation.I replaced it with a brand new Saito 62. The 62 resides where the 56 is sitting.
Glad to see you can still use the finger’s.
The Saito 100 bit me a few weeks ago when I was in Texas. Lucky I dragged my hand through the backside of the prop and the 100 didn’t even miss a lick. But the cuts weren’t as bad as the crap getting beat out of them. The other thing is the club Field I was at didn’t have a first aid kit but had duck tape and toilet paper. The field has one now. But what was fun was standing in Walmart bath room doctoring up my fingers and bleeding all over the sink and the look on people’s faces when they came in. And all were vary concerned about my well-being which was really nice. And yes I cleaned up after myself. Just keep in mind to all don’t get complacent with these engine’s they will bite and without remorse.
I carry two FAK with me, one in my trailer right by the door and one under the drivers seat. Never know when it may be needed, rather have my own than rely on someone else to either have one or not. I also have 3 fire extinguishers available when I have the trailer, or one with just the truck.
Safety, safety, safety and even that's sometimes not enough when some noob comes over and bugs you during start up or tuning. We've all made mistakes. I've had fingers reattached (not RC related) so I'm familiar with the pain and years of tingling and numbness. I was a stupid 26 year old drunk and invincible back then. I look at my hand now with two crooked fingertips and one missing fingertip and think to myself; Yeah, you were a real rocket scientist huh?
I cringe when I see folks starting engines bare handed. Most of the time they have a starter right there in their field box! Do I really look THAT silly using a paint roller to start my gassers? Who cares....pain sucks and I couldn't care less about impressing anyone.
Dave, I'm glad you have use of those fingers. I don't know how long ago that happened, mine took 8-10 years for the feeling to come back fully.
I cringe when I see folks starting engines bare handed. Most of the time they have a starter right there in their field box! Do I really look THAT silly using a paint roller to start my gassers? Who cares....pain sucks and I couldn't care less about impressing anyone.
Dave, I'm glad you have use of those fingers. I don't know how long ago that happened, mine took 8-10 years for the feeling to come back fully.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 07-21-2019 at 08:58 AM.
Yep,
Glad it was but a little whack. Sounds like minimal long term damage, so a virtual "happy ending".
Got this real thick super duty leather glove. Always have it on when starting toy engines.
Like my buddy described his road racing, one piece motorcycle leathers; First time he went down he said it almost felt good. If you've ever gone down hard without them, what he said makes real good sense.
Last edited by Jesse Open; 07-21-2019 at 02:34 PM.
My Feedback: (1)
well guys, it took 2 days to do it, and, I don't know how I got threw it without killing it, but the Word Models p-40 is balanced and ready for it's first flight (I think). I tell you it better fly nicely and not get damaged, cause if it does get damaged I wont fix it, I will just pull out my servos, RX and engine and give it to the first person that says they want it, I'm done working on it for this year anyway.
I used my mill/drill with an end mill to cut a rectangle mold in hard wood and poured in melted lead, once cooled I had to put the lead behind the wing's rear frame former (bulk head) with double sided tape, a real pain in the back side it is. once placed I put the wing on and tested the balance, then take it a part and adjust the weight and mount the lead again, mount the wing again, and test the balance again, then do it all over again, then again, and again. it's so muggy here it's crazy. it took me a total of 10 times to get the balance right. I left the tail just a little light for that first flight. the thing is, if I held the plane so it's tail was just a bit below level it would stay there, and but held the tail just a bit high of level the tail would vary slowly raise, so I left it at that.
(snicker snicker) I know it's going to crash LOL
Jim
I used my mill/drill with an end mill to cut a rectangle mold in hard wood and poured in melted lead, once cooled I had to put the lead behind the wing's rear frame former (bulk head) with double sided tape, a real pain in the back side it is. once placed I put the wing on and tested the balance, then take it a part and adjust the weight and mount the lead again, mount the wing again, and test the balance again, then do it all over again, then again, and again. it's so muggy here it's crazy. it took me a total of 10 times to get the balance right. I left the tail just a little light for that first flight. the thing is, if I held the plane so it's tail was just a bit below level it would stay there, and but held the tail just a bit high of level the tail would vary slowly raise, so I left it at that.
(snicker snicker) I know it's going to crash LOL
Jim
Carbon fibre panels in the finger tops and built in knuckle dusters to boot. Can come in handy at the next set of traffic lights when you politely knock on the drivers door glass and ask him/her not to pull out in front of you so fast. 250 bpm is not always fun.
Lonnie that must have stung a bit. I use armoured motocross gloves to hand start my saito's. Since i don't ride motocross now i use my gloves that i ride the ducati with. Will post a pic.
ps jim are you suffering a little cabin fever ?
Jim, good to hear you got the P40 ready to fly. Might not be a bad idea to warm up the thumbs on a more predictable plane before taking her up? Yep, I get the whole, "If I wreck it I'm not fixing it" thing.
Moderator
Update on my screwy Saito .80
I put all new O rings in and improved things a bit. I did find that the tiny o ring on the HSN was missing and the skinny o ring that goes on the threaded part of the HSN was in the wrong place. So it's all sealed up now, verified by pressure testing. I was using a fluurocarbon fuel line, which is really flexible. I noticed it was kinked going to the carburetor, and I couldn't reroute it to get rid of the kink. So I switch it to silicone.
Now the engine will run top end and respond to the HSN as expected. But I can't get the idle mix lean enough. I've gone through the procedure several times, starting with the LSN flush with the throttle arm. I peak the HSN, and start leaning the idle. I have gone so far leaning the idle that I've had to richen the HSN by a full turn to keep it from leaning out and quitting. But the idle still blubbers. I made it all the way to fully closed on the LSN to see the engine shut off. I can get a 2200 rpm idle, but it's really rich and stumbles on acceleration. With the glow driver attached, the same throttle setting is 3500 or so.
So have any of you had that problem before? I'm wondering if I am looking at some kind of damage to the carburetor now.
I put all new O rings in and improved things a bit. I did find that the tiny o ring on the HSN was missing and the skinny o ring that goes on the threaded part of the HSN was in the wrong place. So it's all sealed up now, verified by pressure testing. I was using a fluurocarbon fuel line, which is really flexible. I noticed it was kinked going to the carburetor, and I couldn't reroute it to get rid of the kink. So I switch it to silicone.
Now the engine will run top end and respond to the HSN as expected. But I can't get the idle mix lean enough. I've gone through the procedure several times, starting with the LSN flush with the throttle arm. I peak the HSN, and start leaning the idle. I have gone so far leaning the idle that I've had to richen the HSN by a full turn to keep it from leaning out and quitting. But the idle still blubbers. I made it all the way to fully closed on the LSN to see the engine shut off. I can get a 2200 rpm idle, but it's really rich and stumbles on acceleration. With the glow driver attached, the same throttle setting is 3500 or so.
So have any of you had that problem before? I'm wondering if I am looking at some kind of damage to the carburetor now.
I just recently tossed out a 4*120 back fuse half from an ARF that the wing blew off on. I figured I would never rebuild it and it was taking up space. I also tossed a busted up wing for a Deweyville special that I would never resurrect. I still have the 100% intact fuse though, maybe someone would want it, until then it is just sitting on a rack in my workshop collecting balsa dust.
Considering selling my 4*120 that I built from a kit complete, just add an RX and go. For me if I don't like how a plane flies, I don't fiddle with it, I just don't fly it.
Considering selling my 4*120 that I built from a kit complete, just add an RX and go. For me if I don't like how a plane flies, I don't fiddle with it, I just don't fly it.
Moderator
I put a new one in when I started the process. I bought 2 at the time, so I could try another one.
Is there one that generally works better than the OS F plug?
Is there one that generally works better than the OS F plug?
A brand new glow plug can be bad. Cleaning up a dirty engine can leave behind a tidbit that can attach itself to the glow plug coil and drive you crazy, especially at idle.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 07-22-2019 at 03:46 PM.
Same here, my only new arf was purchased last winter. I haven't completed a kit in while. I just keep getting such sweet deals on used planes needing minor repairs that I can't get motivated to finish my kits. With the exception of gassers only two of my planes don't have Saitos mounted up front. I've got a long way to go to catch up with some of you but I'm getting there.
It is a race to see who can die with the most Saitos, isn't it?
It is a race to see who can die with the most Saitos, isn't it?
Jester
You may need to buy a new needle/spray bar kit from Saito. Someone may have jammed the needle in too tightly and distorted the seat or some similar damage. The kit is inexpensive and very complete.
You may need to buy a new needle/spray bar kit from Saito. Someone may have jammed the needle in too tightly and distorted the seat or some similar damage. The kit is inexpensive and very complete.