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Old 02-09-2020, 09:27 AM
  #45101  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
I like the idea of having that 1/8"/3.5mm mono jack for connection though. I guess I could buy the tower one (to get the cord and 1 jack) and adapt it to a sonic tronics boot. After that I could buy the sonic tronics system and equip my planes with 1/8" panel mount mono jacks (about $2.50 at Radio Shack). Hmmmm

Thats what I plan to do, use the harness from the Tower one and use the ST jack.
Old 02-11-2020, 03:29 AM
  #45102  
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I'm sad, Graupner USA is closing it's doors, unless they get bought out or rescued some other way: https://www.graupnerusa.com/Promotions.html
Old 02-11-2020, 04:15 AM
  #45103  
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Time to stock up during their 30% off liquidation sale? I was going to order a 14x6 Gsonic 2b to try out on my 82 but they don't offer them.
Old 02-11-2020, 04:26 AM
  #45104  
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I'd bet that the 13 x 8 or the 14 x 7 would do nicely. It also looks like Tower no longer has Xoar's.
Old 02-11-2020, 04:36 AM
  #45105  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
I like the idea of having that 1/8"/3.5mm mono jack for connection though. I guess I could buy the tower one (to get the cord and 1 jack) and adapt it to a sonic tronics boot. After that I could buy the sonic tronics system and equip my planes with 1/8" panel mount mono jacks (about $2.50 at Radio Shack). Hmmmm
$2.50?? Radio shack always charged too much. More like 69 cents on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/CESS-Female-Socket-Switch-10/dp/B00ZSX761U/ref=sr_1_6?crid=26AE6TP2KLIFJ&keywords=1%2F8+panel+mount+jack&qid=1581424308&sprefix=1%2F8"panel%2Caps%2C143&sr=8-6

Be aware, when using a powered headphone plug, there is a potential for direct short circuit while inserting the plug.

The RCA phono plug and jack do not have that problem.
Old 02-11-2020, 04:38 AM
  #45106  
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The Gsonic 13x8 and 14x7 blade profiles look very similar to an apc 13x8 which revs my 82 perfect but lacks the thrust for good pull out of hover. The apc 14x6 pulls out of hover better but is very thick and heavy and is almost too much prop for an 82. An apc 14x4w flies the plane too slow for my liking. So I thought a gsonic in 14x6 would have been the ticket maybe.
Old 02-11-2020, 04:52 AM
  #45107  
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No thanks, complete junk. I'll stick with rad shack or switchcraft etc for a higher quality mono jack. Shorting during insertion is not an issue with mono jacks as far as I know. Definitely not a good idea to leave the ignitor connected to the ignitor cable and throw it in your field box though!

I'm also wondering how long that tower adaptor cable is. If it's not long enough my ignitor would be dangling from the airplane during startup. Not good.

Last edited by Glowgeek; 02-11-2020 at 05:05 AM.
Old 02-11-2020, 05:42 AM
  #45108  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
No thanks, complete junk. I'll stick with rad shack or switchcraft etc for a higher quality mono jack. Shorting during insertion is not an issue with mono jacks as far as I know. Definitely not a good idea to leave the ignitor connected to the ignitor cable and throw it in your field box though!

I'm also wondering how long that tower adaptor cable is. If it's not long enough my ignitor would be dangling from the airplane during startup. Not good.
If you know the size of the Top Flite 60 P-51, that particular cable reaches from the engine back to the cockpit. I have the jack just under the cockpit behind the windscreen. It fits both the 100 and 125.
Old 02-11-2020, 06:47 AM
  #45109  
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The Tiger 3 is coming right a long, the fuse is almost finished, I entertained the idea of laying the elevator servo on it's side to eliminate the asymmetry between the two elevator halves, but there just isn't room. The asymmetry won't be much anyway. I used a micro servo for the throttle.



Last edited by Hobbsy; 02-11-2020 at 02:12 PM.
Old 02-11-2020, 06:50 AM
  #45110  
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Looking good!
Old 02-11-2020, 07:14 AM
  #45111  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
No thanks, complete junk. I'll stick with rad shack or switchcraft etc for a higher quality mono jack. Shorting during insertion is not an issue with mono jacks as far as I know. Definitely not a good idea to leave the ignitor connected to the ignitor cable and throw it in your field box though!

I'm also wondering how long that tower adaptor cable is. If it's not long enough my ignitor would be dangling from the airplane during startup. Not good.

LOL!
Ever tried that one from Amazon?

Rad Shack is probably well below the quality level of that jack! Certainly no better! Not like a glow plug connection is at all critical. Yes, you are still facing the dead short issue with mono plugs in this application, depending on the construction of the jack itself.. Better to use the shank and tip terminals on a stereo, TRS plug. But what do I know ?
Switchcraft now ? Probably cheaper that Rad Sh***, but they now make a lot of it in China too and the quality has suffered.
Switchcraft is what I like to use, but not anything they have sold lately. NOS, US made only.

Last edited by Jesse Open; 02-11-2020 at 07:45 AM.
Old 02-11-2020, 07:59 AM
  #45112  
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No dead short issues if you plug into the plane before hooking the igniter to it. I usually plug in at the same time I turn the radio on and do a safety check, then when ready plug the igniter in. The TH one listed above uses the glow plug head on the extension. I wouldn't plug a live cable into the plane since I would be holding the plane and would not want the engine to pop over and cut me. I have had an engine pop over when connecting the igniter. Now I set the prop so that it can't fire when plugging in.
Old 02-11-2020, 08:48 AM
  #45113  
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Originally Posted by acdii
No dead short issues if you plug into the plane before hooking the igniter to it. I usually plug in at the same time I turn the radio on and do a safety check, then when ready plug the igniter in. The TH one listed above uses the glow plug head on the extension. I wouldn't plug a live cable into the plane since I would be holding the plane and would not want the engine to pop over and cut me. I have had an engine pop over when connecting the igniter. Now I set the prop so that it can't fire when plugging in.
LOL!


I've had a glow engine start and run without a battery connected!

Caution always matters,

No dead short issues if you use any one of most any other connectors either


Regardless, you can usually buy better for less than Rad Shacht

And that is where we started.

geeeeeeez
Old 02-11-2020, 09:16 AM
  #45114  
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I user the Hanger 9 Remote glow plug connector. I attach the dongle to the socket and then energize. When the engine is running I disconnect the power then I unplug the dongle. I have no problems with shorts and find them reliable. I use them because I like keeping my digits away from sharp spinning objects. It is too easy to slip up once and get bitten.
Old 02-11-2020, 09:30 AM
  #45115  
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Considering it is also 1.5 volts tops, don't think it will hurt anything for the brief instant the poles touch.
Old 02-11-2020, 01:59 PM
  #45116  
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open
LOL!
Ever tried that one from Amazon?

Rad Shack is probably well below the quality level of that jack! Certainly no better! .......
I have not tried the CESS one on Amazon. All I have to do is look at that casting line on the threaded body to know I dont want it. The last 1/8" panel mount mono jack I bought from radshack 4 or 5 years ago had a chrome plated brass body and nickel plated copper solder tabs. Pretty good quality but I don't know what they're selling now. Today the switchcraft jacks look exactly like the one I got from radshack, that's why I mentioned them.


Old 02-11-2020, 02:23 PM
  #45117  
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
Looking good!
Thanks, I spelled asymmetry wrong both times, the elevator servo arm is deliberately long to reduce the radius of the arc and therefore reduce the asymmetry. Those JR 531's are eerily quiet and so is that little blue guy, the ailerons are getting 531's also. Anybody have pictures of connectors you're discussing, Thanks again, Dave

PS, the throttle barrel on the 62 was draggy down near idle, the idle stop screw was screwed in about 1/8th turn too far. I use one of my swing lever turn arounds on the throttle as the arm extended above the top of the fuse.


Last edited by Hobbsy; 02-12-2020 at 03:34 AM. Reason: Add picture
Old 02-11-2020, 02:29 PM
  #45118  
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Link to switchcraft 1/8" mono panel jack. Cheaper elsewhere,

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...yABEgJJm_D_BwE
Old 02-11-2020, 04:15 PM
  #45119  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
I have not tried the CESS one on Amazon. All I have to do is look at that casting line on the threaded body to know I dont want it. The last 1/8" panel mount mono jack I bought from radshack 4 or 5 years ago had a chrome plated brass body and nickel plated copper solder tabs. Pretty good quality but I don't know what they're selling now. Today the switchcraft jacks look exactly like the one I got from radshack, that's why I mentioned them.
The stuff sold at Rad Schatt for at least a decade has been cheesy, overpriced swarf.

Even with that reality it is plenty good enough for this misapplication.... As are the 69 cent Amazon jacks . Your choice of course, just seems a bit odd at best Seen the CESS up close and seen them in use. They function and survive just fine. For the intended function.

So many better choices for the application in any event.


Just thought you may want to save a few $$ and get the same result. Good luck.
Old 02-13-2020, 05:31 AM
  #45120  
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Ordered most all if the parts to bring the pos fa91 up to snuff. Still need a pretty set of rocker covers and cam gear housing but those won't stop me from doing some test runs.

I got a a Magnum fs91 in the deal with the Saito and can't get the exhaust valve to seal. Looked like someone lapped a trench into the valve so I refaced the valve and lightly lapped it. What do ya know? Trenched again after only 2 tanks of fuel! I guess the engine had been run too hot for too long and annealed the steel? Or maybe it is just soft from the factory? I'm glad my saitos don't have this problem, they lap in nicely with metal polishing compound.

Last edited by Glowgeek; 02-13-2020 at 05:37 AM.
Old 02-13-2020, 07:28 AM
  #45121  
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Should run fine with the covers and cam housing you have
Old 02-13-2020, 09:05 AM
  #45122  
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Since I'm using a 4 channel xceiver in the Tiger 3 I needed a Y harness for the ailerons and one for the battery on whatever channel I choose, I found a threefer on Amazon for 9 bucks and one day free shipping. I'll have them tomorrow. I love that place.
Old 02-13-2020, 10:18 AM
  #45123  
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I gave up buying harnesses after having so many fail and make my own now. Cheaper too. Found a kit to make the Y harness, uses a circuit board and heat shrink, and have the stripping and crimping tools for the ends, along with bags of pins, sockets and Futaba sleeves and JR plugs.I also use heavy gauge wire, not that thin stuff.
Old 02-13-2020, 10:41 AM
  #45124  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
Since I'm using a 4 channel xceiver in the Tiger 3 I needed a Y harness for the ailerons and one for the battery on whatever channel I choose, I found a threefer on Amazon for 9 bucks and one day free shipping. I'll have them tomorrow. I love that place.
Yep, plenty of really good stuff there. I have been well pleased by most of it. Order it today and it is at my door next day.
Old 02-13-2020, 11:37 AM
  #45125  
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I hope Pete gets back on soon, I have some painting questions for him.

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