Welcome to Club SAITO !
07-27-2020, 03:49 AM
i have grass strip at the local airport too, but that is too easy. Lol
Me and the new Saito three cylinder are not getting on well. First of my radials to violently trash talk the back of my gloved right paw.
Little does it know, I have carpenter hands.
It will comply.
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SigMan (07-28-2020)
07-27-2020, 06:23 PM
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Completely disassembled the 150 carb and found a tiny clear substance stuck at the spraybar slit and some minute debris in the inlet. Cleaned that up, ran it again and retuned. The lsn and hsn needed 1/2 turn in but power is still down 1/2 hp and it still won't idle below 2200. It's spinning a 15x8 at 8900 peak, should be spinning at 16x8 at that rpm.
Rechecked cam timing, rockers were dead even at tdc on the exhaust stroke. Tore down the engine and found the front bearing seal had popped out of the bearing but nothing else looks off. Bearings are new and smooth, compression is excellent, leakdown is excellent, no intake tract leaks detected, new ring, new valve springs, new fuel, new glow plug. Hmmmm
Rechecked cam timing, rockers were dead even at tdc on the exhaust stroke. Tore down the engine and found the front bearing seal had popped out of the bearing but nothing else looks off. Bearings are new and smooth, compression is excellent, leakdown is excellent, no intake tract leaks detected, new ring, new valve springs, new fuel, new glow plug. Hmmmm
is there a chance that cam could be one of the older cams ?
Jim
07-27-2020, 06:42 PM
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Hey Lonnie,
remember I said I balanced my old but new out of the bag wood Master Airscrew prop ?
remember I said it's balance was way off ?
remember I said I had to add a lot of glue ?
remember you said the hole could have been drilled off center ?
I checked !
you were correct !!
I removed the nose cone, and only one of the tabs on the back plate was touching the prop, both tabs should be touching the trailing edge of each blade, and only one is. it's off about 1mm,.. 1mm doesn't sound like much at the tab, but at the tip of the blade it must be off close to 3/8".
I can fix it with some work
Lonnie, you had it on that one
Jim
remember I said I balanced my old but new out of the bag wood Master Airscrew prop ?
remember I said it's balance was way off ?
remember I said I had to add a lot of glue ?
remember you said the hole could have been drilled off center ?
I checked !
you were correct !!
I removed the nose cone, and only one of the tabs on the back plate was touching the prop, both tabs should be touching the trailing edge of each blade, and only one is. it's off about 1mm,.. 1mm doesn't sound like much at the tab, but at the tip of the blade it must be off close to 3/8".
I can fix it with some work
Lonnie, you had it on that one
Jim
07-28-2020, 02:19 AM
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Completely disassembled the 150 carb and found a tiny clear substance stuck at the spraybar slit and some minute debris in the inlet. Cleaned that up, ran it again and retuned. The lsn and hsn needed 1/2 turn in but power is still down 1/2 hp and it still won't idle below 2200. It's spinning a 15x8 at 8900 peak, should be spinning at 16x8 at that rpm.
Rechecked cam timing, rockers were dead even at tdc on the exhaust stroke. Tore down the engine and found the front bearing seal had popped out of the bearing but nothing else looks off. Bearings are new and smooth, compression is excellent, leakdown is excellent, no intake tract leaks detected, new ring, new valve springs, new fuel, new glow plug. Hmmmm
Rechecked cam timing, rockers were dead even at tdc on the exhaust stroke. Tore down the engine and found the front bearing seal had popped out of the bearing but nothing else looks off. Bearings are new and smooth, compression is excellent, leakdown is excellent, no intake tract leaks detected, new ring, new valve springs, new fuel, new glow plug. Hmmmm
Lonnie, your engine is doing just fine, Clarence Lee got 8.800 with a Zinger 15 x 8 and 8,400 with a 16 x 8, Mike Billinton got 9,270 with an APC 15 x 8.
I have the very first 150 sold by Horizon, to my knowledge there has never been a cam change. I have my 150 chucked up with a 16 x 8 Xoar, the fancy one, I'll run a regular one too. I am not allowed outside when the weather/health conditions are in the red.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 07-28-2020 at 02:21 AM.
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SigMan (07-28-2020)
07-28-2020, 03:25 AM
Well my Saito sickness continues.
found this awesome spaceman.
there’s vary little discoloration in the exhaust port like this engines been run a couple times and then that’s it.
found this awesome spaceman.
there’s vary little discoloration in the exhaust port like this engines been run a couple times and then that’s it.
07-28-2020, 05:16 AM
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Nice find, congrats.
I just had to make a rear facing vent for my little 30's, one done so far, I tried to make it smaller but it's not much smaller. It looks good though. The stock vent is 4mm not 5mm like the larger ones. That helped some.
I just had to make a rear facing vent for my little 30's, one done so far, I tried to make it smaller but it's not much smaller. It looks good though. The stock vent is 4mm not 5mm like the larger ones. That helped some.
07-28-2020, 11:37 AM
Yes, that's right Jim. Reports of the 150 spinning an apc 16x8 at 8800 to 9000 are out there a plenty.
On my high time 150 with weak power I found two problems.
First, the rear bearing was intermittently spinning on the crankshaft. Not enough to cause wear so I center punched the crank to tighten things up. This problem would not have caused power output issues.
Secondly, the rear bearing had spun in the case and built up an aluminum ridge on the bearing seating surface. I didn't catch that when installing the rear bearing, looked like it went in all the way, but no. This definitely could have caused diminished output power as the crankcase expands while heating up. It also would cause idling issues as things tightened up. I used an exacto to cut the ridge and a freshly sharpened screwdriver to scrape off the ridge. The bearing then went in all the way but only had a slip fit so I used a very thin film of JBweld to encourage the bearing to stay put.
Test runs tomorrow.
In an earlier post I made the claim that the 150 had a larger crankshaft than the 180. Not true, just me being me.
On my high time 150 with weak power I found two problems.
First, the rear bearing was intermittently spinning on the crankshaft. Not enough to cause wear so I center punched the crank to tighten things up. This problem would not have caused power output issues.
Secondly, the rear bearing had spun in the case and built up an aluminum ridge on the bearing seating surface. I didn't catch that when installing the rear bearing, looked like it went in all the way, but no. This definitely could have caused diminished output power as the crankcase expands while heating up. It also would cause idling issues as things tightened up. I used an exacto to cut the ridge and a freshly sharpened screwdriver to scrape off the ridge. The bearing then went in all the way but only had a slip fit so I used a very thin film of JBweld to encourage the bearing to stay put.
Test runs tomorrow.
In an earlier post I made the claim that the 150 had a larger crankshaft than the 180. Not true, just me being me.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 07-28-2020 at 02:11 PM.
07-28-2020, 02:23 PM
Yes, at least. I actually epoxied it yesterday morning, so two nights of curing. I said JBweld because that would work fine but the epoxy I actually used is designed for anchoring very large machinery to concrete floors, specifically turbine generators. It's designed for extreme compressive loads and requires a 72 hours cure time before reaching full strength. A nice feature is that it stays exactly where you put it, no runs, no sags. A friend from the industry gave some to me, I have no idea of the manufacturer or what it's called. I call it BA epoxy!
Last edited by Glowgeek; 07-28-2020 at 02:40 PM.
07-28-2020, 03:14 PM
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The story, I sent my first 30 to William Robison for his Saito Notes he was compiling. As a little joke he sent it back with a painted cylinder. So, when I bought the second 30, I painted it also. They're slated for a twin if I ever get around to building it. The twin is called the 50 Caliber, (twin 25's).
Eureka model 50 Caliber
Eureka model 50 Caliber
Last edited by Hobbsy; 07-28-2020 at 03:18 PM.
07-29-2020, 02:43 AM
Lol, you mean the last bearing it'll ever get? Nah, laquer thinner is the ultimate epoxy remover. An overnight soak and a little heat, the bearing will just fall out. Test runs on the 150 this morning.
I recently bought a set of rocker covers that had JBweld on the tops to keep nose overs from scarring them. Overnight soak, done. Unfortunately they were scarred underneath the epoxy anyway. Great seller, refunded my money before I even asked for it. That went a long way towards restoring my confidence in fellow modelers.
I recently bought a set of rocker covers that had JBweld on the tops to keep nose overs from scarring them. Overnight soak, done. Unfortunately they were scarred underneath the epoxy anyway. Great seller, refunded my money before I even asked for it. That went a long way towards restoring my confidence in fellow modelers.
07-29-2020, 02:45 AM
AKA rocket! 
I hope those reflexes are still up to snuff.
Once unloaded in the air a couple of 10x9's will pull that slick little girl along at around 70-75 mph. Good times 9x10's even faster. Woohoo, giddy up and yeehaw!
I hope those reflexes are still up to snuff.Once unloaded in the air a couple of 10x9's will pull that slick little girl along at around 70-75 mph. Good times
9x10's even faster. Woohoo, giddy up and yeehaw!Last edited by Glowgeek; 07-29-2020 at 03:23 AM.
07-29-2020, 07:20 AM
Saito fa150 Test Run
APC 16x8 (sport)
F plug
15% Nitro/17.5% oil
8700 Peak
1700 Idle
2.486 hp (calculated)
Ring is still quite new, might see 8800 or more later. I'm quite happy with it.
APC 16x8 (sport)
F plug
15% Nitro/17.5% oil
8700 Peak
1700 Idle
2.486 hp (calculated)
Ring is still quite new, might see 8800 or more later. I'm quite happy with it.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 07-29-2020 at 08:15 AM.
07-29-2020, 11:09 AM
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Jim