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Old 04-06-2012, 03:31 AM
  #21826  
w8ye
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We can still help you. Just ask away
Old 04-06-2012, 04:20 AM
  #21827  
cubfloater
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Thanks w8ye, matter of fact I believe I took your advice on the bearings source. They are so cheap and if this goes as planned I'd think finding cheap old non-crash damaged engines might not be a bad thing. As long as not too old and parts still available. You can pick them up cheap at swap meets. I love getting an engine that is seized up. Lots don't know that the fuel is only gummed up. And don't worry, I plan to ask.

Jim
Old 04-06-2012, 04:51 PM
  #21828  
Ernie Misner
 
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Should be quite a bit about the cam timing in the William Robison Comeplete Saito Notes at the top of the Engines forum.

Ernie
Old 04-06-2012, 05:04 PM
  #21829  
cubfloater
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Duh... thanks Ernie I didn't even think about Bill's notes. I've looked through them before and know there's lots of great info there. Probably more than I'll ever need. And I had to even skip right over it to get to this thread! I'll go to it now and start reading while waiting on my bearings to arrive. Will check in later if I get stumped. Probably will, not quite an engineer but my brother is. I do like fiddling with things. Thanks again Ernie.

Jim
Old 04-06-2012, 05:18 PM
  #21830  
Ernie Misner
 
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It's great to keep getting use out of Bill's notes! When the cam timing is correct, both valves will be slightly open when the piston is at TDC... not on the compression stroke.... Not that that is how to set the timing in the first place though. Keep us posted, your enthusiasm is contagious ~

Ernie Misner
Old 04-07-2012, 03:39 AM
  #21831  
radial1951
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*
Aha!! Now we ALL know.

There goes the bargains...
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.... I love getting an engine that is seized up. Lots don't know that the fuel is only gummed up....

Jim
Old 04-07-2012, 07:32 AM
  #21832  
johnfly
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ok.. Thanks guys.
Old 04-07-2012, 03:14 PM
  #21833  
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Sorry to jump in i could not find a new thread to start a post.

I have a saito FA82b which has warn out its bearings ..it has had over 200 hours fly time which doesn't seem very long for bearings having always used after run oil.. I've pulled the engine apart but have come to a stop on removing the prop back drive washer to pull out the crank shaft . it appears to have a brass sleave or collar ..How do I disasemble it ? Do I need to use and buy a puller ,is their one avaliable for Saito engines ? Any ideas are appreciated.

cheers Rick.
Old 04-07-2012, 06:29 PM
  #21834  
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Since you are replacing the bearings anyway. What I do is heat up the crankcase and drive washer especially and then I whack the crankshaft end pushing it back and down or out through the back. As soon as the crankshaft moves a little, the drive washer comes right off. I then reheat the crankcase and continue until I get it out. If the bearing comes out great, otherwise I use a brass rod that has a lip on it catch the inside of the bearing to  go around the edge and tap it out. Same for the front bearing but it gets tapped out to the front of course. Sometimes the bearings are in there pretty tight. I use a brass hammer to get the things apart.

The methods used for a two stroke engine works on a four stroke, albeit you need to remove the camshaft assembly so it is out of the way too.
Here is a good video on how to do it. Some engine are pretty easy to do this to, other engines need some extra effort to get the bearings out.

http://www.rcmodelreviews.com/bearings.shtml

You can you a drive washer puller, but a small bearing splitter tool works equally well.

Old 04-07-2012, 07:54 PM
  #21835  
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I recently removed the prop driver washer ( as you describe) simply with a small gear puller ...took me a while to find one with long enough chuck to extend fa enough down. Didn't even heat the case ( but would rceommend it anyway next time )...my first time also... went well.
Old 04-07-2012, 08:59 PM
  #21836  
maverick11359
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Thanks for the advice guys,
 Already tried heating the drive washer and the case  ..had no luck tapping the shaft and prop nut  firmly yesterday with dowel and hammer as earlwb stated, didn't shift at all ..Will try and find gear puller that fits.        cheers Rick 
Old 04-08-2012, 04:08 AM
  #21837  
Rudolph Hart
 
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Would you re-read earls post first?
Old 04-08-2012, 12:24 PM
  #21838  
Ernie Misner
 
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Is everyone running the velocity stack on their Saitos? I have an 82 that I installed the optional stack on but haven't got one on the 125 yet. Should I bother with it? I know they were really popular a couple of years ago and everyone said you'd get less spit back mess and better mileage.

Also how often do you change the Viton O-ring where the intake manifold goes into the head? Does it tend to go bad eventually on it's own or is it taking the manifold off and on that takes it's toll on that o-ring? I ask because my 82 dead sticked a couple of times lately and I haven't pin pointed the cause yet. Could just have been the tank foaming on the profile plane though.

Thanks,

Ernie Misner
Old 04-08-2012, 12:29 PM
  #21839  
w8ye
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If you are running a plastic back plate on your 72 and 82, you should change the Viton O ring at least once a year. The 72 is worse than the 82.

On the 82 with the aluminum back plate, the O ring should last for years.

I don't run velocity stacks on the 125's but the others I do.
Old 04-08-2012, 02:15 PM
  #21840  
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Old Fart,  I can read and i can re read Earls post but his method didn't work for me in this case. Earl's method is my method on my OS engines . I already tried Earls method  twice the day before i wrote the post  .Unless I try a third time and possibly whack my crank shaft with a lump hammer instead of my metal ball  hammer  while heating it with my heat gun( i don't think so ). 

         I think i will give a gear puller ago . I posted hopeing some one my have some advice on where to purchase one on the net or if their was possibly another purpose built tool from saito engines. cheers Rick
Old 04-08-2012, 02:34 PM
  #21841  
w8ye
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On some Saito engines the drive hub is really hard to break loose. I use a good puller and sometimes the heat too.
Old 04-08-2012, 03:06 PM
  #21842  
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Hey no offence intended rick.Sounds like the way to go and will be trying it myself.I usually use a gear puller but tapping the crank back and taking the bearings with it appeals to a lazy bugger like me

Ernie i use velocity stacks and agree with your comments.On my 82 i've had a couple of deadsticks but only when there is something violent going on flying wise.
Old 04-08-2012, 03:44 PM
  #21843  
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I found my gear puller at the local Car parts distributor, Kragans ( now O'Reilly's)...was around 10 $..... had to use a round file on the puller jaws to get the best possible seating around the back of the prop driver ...there is only about a 1mm lip that protrudes on the small Saitos ...
Old 04-08-2012, 04:00 PM
  #21844  
w8ye
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I clamp a bearing separator around the hub and use the puller against the bearing separator.

http://www.harborfreight.com/bearing...set-93980.html

Old 04-08-2012, 09:00 PM
  #21845  
Ernie Misner
 
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Has anyone identified the usual symptom when that Viton O-ring starts to go? Would it show up more at idle?

Thanks again,

Ernie Misner
Old 04-09-2012, 04:34 AM
  #21846  
w8ye
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It effects the idle more than any other speed.

Biggest symptom is that you have to keep changing the mixture. It will jump to too lean and then you will determine it is too rich, etc.
Old 04-09-2012, 05:30 AM
  #21847  
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ORIGINAL: w8ye

I clamp a bearing separator around the hub and use the puller against the bearing separator.

http://www.harborfreight.com/bearing...set-93980.html

+1 on the bearing splitter. I bought a small one from HF separate from the whole set a few years back.
Old 04-09-2012, 08:31 PM
  #21848  
Ernie Misner
 
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>>> Biggest symptom is that you have to keep changing the mixture. It will jump to too lean and then you will determine it is too rich, etc. >>>

Thanks Jim, has anyone found a way to buy just the Viton O-rings without purchasing a whole gasket set????

Thanks,

Ernie
Old 04-09-2012, 09:06 PM
  #21849  
radial1951
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*
Hi Ernie,

Any engineering supply or bearing shop should sell viton o-rings, they are a standard product line for high temp applications. I assume being for a Saito they will be metric, no problem here in Oz, but in the USA?

Just make sure they are Viton, usually orangey-reddish-brown or grey (gray :-), but NEVER black.

Regards, RossG
radial1951
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..... has anyone found a way to buy just the Viton O-rings without purchasing a whole gasket set????

Thanks,

Ernie
Old 04-09-2012, 09:10 PM
  #21850  
Ernie Misner
 
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Thanks RossG! Let's see if we can come up with some metric dimensions for that Viton O-ring for the popular size Saitos. My 2 saitos are the 82 and 125, which might? even have the same size intake manifold but that would be pushing my luck.

Thanks,

Ernie Misner


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