orthobird

My Feedback: (1)

When I get home from wirk
I will take pictures of engine
And video

lopflyers

My Feedback: (12)

Hey ortho, I had a bent crankshaft once, I threw it in the trash and replaced it. Too much trouble to straight it out for what a new one cost[:-]

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

Actually, with the right tools straightening a bent crank is not that difficult. I have done it many times, but have access to those tools at work. that is why I recommended a machine shop. The key is to have accurate V-blocks for the crank to ride on indicate the ends and then a way to apply the correct amount of force in the proper location to bend it back.

Every time I have had to do it the crank was bent outside the much larger crank boss that rides within the bearings and that narrower portion can be relatively flexible.

orthobird

My Feedback: (1)

no doubt i am with you here i removed the spark plug and removed prop and it is more than obvious to naked eye that it is bent i will order new one do you think it will be difficult to change out? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N12RuQRHJ2w

SrTelemaster150

$64.59 W/free shipping from here.

http://www.advantagehobby.com/27021/SAI125A23/

orthobird

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here is where i am at now took me about 20 minutes to get here very easy

loudbikes

My Feedback: (38)

Velocity Stacks

I was looking everywhere on the web for the velocity stacks for the saito mid-block engines. I found some in the UK at: http://hobbyplastic.co.uk/index.php?...oducts_id=2208. I ordered two of them and it was $20 (U.S.) including shipping to Washington state. Just an FYI if anybody else is trying to get one sooner than later. By the way I have a Saito .56, .91 and 1.00, can I play too? -Tim

SrTelemaster150

While you are @ it, you might want to replace the front bearing since it took a hit. an extra $12 would be cheap insurance..

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

If you want to send me the crank I can have a go at straightening it. If it works out you would have a spare.

orthobird

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ok i just o rdered this as well it was very easy to remove the front bearing thank you so much for the advice my only concern is when i reassemble the engine getting the camgear to line up properly with the crankshaft pinion gear

orthobird

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sounds like an offer i cannot refuse i just saw where you live right across from detroit i/ve been there, detorit side that is but i also have been to toronto and to montreal
both beautiful cities!!

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

There are several instructions on assembly that are a big help. Here's one with pics:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_95...tm.htm#9515164

orthobird

My Feedback: (1)

this guyseamusg is a genius thanks for the link now i know what to do also you have a great memory to recall you had seen this before
and thank you so much for replying and giving me the answer that is very very nice of you!!

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

Don't forget to lube everything before assembly. I use air tool oil, (identical to turbine oil) but castor, Mystery or any other good quality assembly oil should work if it has good adhesion. This means it protects the parts well and stays where you need it till replaced with the lube from the fuel.

Try to avoid spinning a fully assembled motor till it has running time since you can wipe the oil from the cylinder wall or squeeze it from between metal/metal contact points.

As with any motor, the first few seconds and minutes of running in make a HUGE difference.

AeroFinn

Hi Cougar is Aerosave synthetic oil fine for this purpose, too? I mean for lubrication of the parts before assembly? Thanks, Artto ( proud to be a new club member # 784)

Mein Duff

read recently that gas engines do not need to be run-in.......Ok we're talking 4 strokes in this forum but is this true?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Engine Break-in
Do not skip the engine break-in; you will risk
seizing the conrod to the crankshaft.
The break-in process required for all Saito engines
is designed to break-in the conrod to crankshaft
interface more than to seat the ring. The ring will
seat gradually over time and the engine will develop
more and more power. The conrod needs to be
treated correctly from the beginning.

From the Saito FG21 manual

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

Gas engines need break-in. Read the mfg's instructions and break in accordingly.

RJ

FNQFLYER

AS an aside on the gas thing, so Saito has bought out the FG 21 (and "lost the FG 20)  I read a lot about the failings of the FG20 but have yet to see one fail personally.  True they had carby problems here in OZ and yes it would appear as if most of the problems come from our typically male failing of not reading the instructions correctly (fully / competely) and thus coming to grief.  I have seen a cylinder blow of a Saito twin because the carby to that cylinder was leaned out far to much, (thus done by the field Saito expert), and I have seen in my field of competition to many people trying to extract that last ounce of performance out of the engine buy far exceeding the manufacturers recommendations.  The later is good because I usually end up with cheap engines.
The message I am trying to convey here is, if in doubt ask, read and absorb all the data to hand for your new toy and apply it plus any experience you have to achieving the desired result and lastly if in doubt ask and ask again until you get the desired info
Keep up the good work here guys both my old mentor and myself learn something new every day.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

Not familiar with Aerosave, so have no recommendations there. If in doubt a local auto supply house should have a small bottle of engine assembly oil. We used it for years to prelube metal/metal contact faces, such as crank bearings and cam lobes.

Personally I use my own mix for an after-run oil that is a 50/50 ratio of ATF, (automatic transmission fluid) and air tool oil. Recently I also added a metal conditioner that is much thicker and helps retention, but the straight 50/50 mix has worked for me for over 25 years in after-run, long term storage and assembly.

Ernie Misner

Synthetic (blend) assembly grease is available at auto parts stores also. It may be similar to what resides in new Saitos and there is some super high strength compounds in it.

Ernie Misner

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Ernie, here is the factory lube in a new Saito 1.15, picture #2 is the first oil from the crankcase, Jim, Barry and I had to unscare a few people who panicked when they saw the black coloration.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Here are a couple of more numbers:

loudbikes 786

cougar429 787


Anyone else need a number?

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks. How do I add that to the bottom area of my posts?

SrTelemaster150

Go to the top & hover over the "FORUMS" button.

On the drop down select "Settings".

You will find a field to enter your signature. After you enter what you want in your signature, go to the bottom & click "Apply".

Your signature will then appear in all of your posts, past, present & future