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Welcome to Club SAITO !

Old 08-01-2012, 09:37 AM
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Double post!
Old 08-01-2012, 12:39 PM
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ORIGINAL: Cougar429

Not familiar with Aerosave, so have no recommendations there. If in doubt a local auto supply house should have a small bottle of engine assembly oil. We used it for years to prelube metal/metal contact faces, such as crank bearings and cam lobes.

Personally I use my own mix for an after-run oil that is a 50/50 ratio of ATF, (automatic transmission fluid) and air tool oil. Recently I also added a metal conditioner that is much thicker and helps retention, but the straight 50/50 mix has worked for me for over 25 years in after-run, long term storage and assembly.
Thanks Ernie & Cougar I can proceed with this

artto
Old 08-01-2012, 02:02 PM
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ORIGINAL: blw

Here are a couple of more numbers:

loudbikes 786

cougar429 787


Anyone else need a number?

Yes please. If It don't have an official number please assign one.
Old 08-01-2012, 08:23 PM
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I wanted to ask how many people have gone back and attempted to read every page of this forum. I am trying it. I am on page 350. Please let me know if I can still get a club number. 2XSaito 125 and Saito 150S. I salute Hobbsy, W8YE 73OM, N1EDM, the late great Bill Robison, and many many others. Cheers to all.
Old 08-01-2012, 08:38 PM
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Thanks JK, to quote Augustus McCrae in Lonesome Dove, "its been quite a party", I have been here almost 11 years and was on RCOnline several years before that. Lottsa friendships formed over the years including Ole WildBill.
Old 08-02-2012, 05:15 AM
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

“Fifty years," I hackneyed, "is a long time."
"Not when you're looking back at them," she said. "You wonder how they vanished so quickly.”
― Isaac Asimov, I, Robot
Old 08-02-2012, 04:01 PM
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hi. the crankshaft just arrived. the front bearing gets here tomorrow. i installed crankshaft and the cam gear with housing. please tell me if you all think this is ok:

ORIGINAL: Cougar429

There are several instructions on assembly that are a big help. Here's one with pics:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_95...tm.htm#9515164
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Old 08-02-2012, 04:05 PM
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I need one please, i am reading from page 1
Old 08-02-2012, 04:14 PM
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ORIGINAL: orthobird

hi. the crankshaft just arrived. the front bearing gets here tomorrow. i installed crankshaft and the cam gear with housing. please tell me if you all think this is ok:

ORIGINAL: Cougar429

There are several instructions on assembly that are a big help. Here's one with pics:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_95...tm.htm#9515164

Well, for one thing, it's usually better to install the front bearing before the crank. I heat the case up to 300*F in the oven, lay the (chilled) front bearing on a wodden cutting board & W/an oven mitt on my hand, take the hot case (W/O the crank installed) from the oven & press it down on the bearing making sure you get it seated completely before the case shrinks onto the bearing. Hold it down against the cutting board for several seconds as it shrinks or the bearing will fall back out.

Chilling the crank helps some too as it will let it slip right in if you do that before the case/bearings cool down completely.

On your engine you can use a pin down through the lifter bore/cam lobe to hold the cam in time as you re instal the cam housing.
Old 08-03-2012, 11:26 AM
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I like to be able to see the cam timing mark with the front bearing out. perhaps the front bearing should go in after the crank and timing cover/cam assembly.
Old 08-03-2012, 11:28 AM
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i will let you know what happens. i ordered the bearing 1 hour after the cranks, so they shipped out seperately. should get here on monday.
Old 08-03-2012, 12:20 PM
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ORIGINAL: jkr_1100

I like to be able to see the cam timing mark with the front bearing out. perhaps the front bearing should go in after the crank and timing cover/cam assembly.

You don't need to see the mark on engines built on the medium/small block. The intake lifter can be pulled out & a pin used to lock the cam timing @ TDC.

On big blocks, 120/150/180 & probably 220 the lifter are "mushroom head" so you can't pull them from the top. You can use a lifter housing bolt to put pressure down on the lifter/cam holding (but not locking) the cam timing @ TDC. Doing it from the front you can see the timing mark just before you lower the housing into the case.

It's harder to get the front bearing seated correctly W/the crank snout in the way. W/O the crank snout in the way it's super easy W/the case heated & the bearing chilled in the fridge, (not the freezer) to just push the case onto the bearing. No chance of buggering up the bearing installation that way.

It's a no brainer W/the smaller engines that have the provision for locking the cam timing. That's the way it's designed to be done on those engines, W/the fromt bearing installed & using the cam locking pin.
Old 08-03-2012, 01:44 PM
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ORIGINAL: jkr_1100

I like to be able to see the cam timing mark with the front bearing out. perhaps the front bearing should go in after the crank and timing cover/cam assembly.

You don't need to see the mark on engines built on the medium/small block. The intake lifter can be pulled out & a pin used to lock the cam timing @ TDC.


Here you go.









Instal both bearings, then the crank & use this proceedure to hold the cam @ TDC & the rubber bands to hold the crank @ TDC & assemble.
Old 08-03-2012, 04:55 PM
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Get a load of this

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwCd76ZBtOE[/youtube]

What I wouldn't give for a 13:1 high compression (electronic ignition) glow fuel version. That sucker would make 7HP easy! Even more on 30% Heli fuel!. 5.7 HP for the FG84R3 gasoline version, just .2 HP (4% more) for 9cc more displacement (12% more) than the 450R3 glow version.

It's not the gas that makes them so user friendly boys & girls, it's the timed spark ignition & with nitro/methanol fuel there's a LOT more HP potential than gasoline!

Old 08-03-2012, 07:17 PM
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Man, I SO like the sound of that one. Compared to the norm it more resembles a real aircraft motor than a chainsaw on steroids.
Old 08-03-2012, 07:30 PM
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ORIGINAL: Cougar429

Man, I SO like the sound of that one. Compared to the norm it more resembles a real aircraft motor than a chainsaw on steroids.

That's why all I fly are 4-strokes. IMO, spark ignition is the secret to good manners & power in the big Saito 3 cylinder radials. A 450R3 running spark W/glow fuel would sound the same.

Ever here one of the Saito inline "V" twins?

They sound like a [link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBickqgN_fM]TINY MERLIN[/link].

I can't wait to hear mine running on spark ignition.
Old 08-04-2012, 04:30 AM
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I think KOLM engines are a good example of what saito may be looking at and i hope they do it.The market seems huge going on KOLM engine orders i've heard about.May only be hearsay i hope saito make something similar to the KOLM200 inline triple for warbirds.It sounds so good in the reno mustang...it's on my bucket list
Old 08-04-2012, 10:37 AM
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That is what we were looking for on my 150s. The lifters have a rim on them and do not pull out. Also no hole to hold cam gear. Front bearing last will be best for the150s
Old 08-04-2012, 10:46 AM
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ORIGINAL: jkr_1100

That is what we were looking for on my 150s. The lifters have a rim on them and do not pull out. Also no hole to hold cam gear. Front bearing last will be best for the150s

You can cut a piece of brass shim stock in a "U" shape that will catch the root of the cam gear teeth on either side & hold it in time. That's how I used to do it until I became comfortable W/the bolt pushed against the lifter method on the 120-180s

I only tried the "front bearing last" routine 1 time & didn't get the bearing seated absolutely square. There was drag on the crank as it turned. It's just not worth the possibility of buggering up a bearing or the soft aluminum bearing seat IMO.
Old 08-04-2012, 11:36 AM
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ORIGINAL: Old Fart

I think KOLM engines are a good example of what saito may be looking at and i hope they do it.The market seems huge going on KOLM engine orders i've heard about.May only be hearsay i hope saito make something similar to the KOLM200 inline triple for warbirds.It sounds so good in the reno mustang...it's on my bucket list

One of these is on my bucket list.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vfdhFYmmlo&feature=related[/youtube]

I love my Saitos, but there's no better sound in R/C than a big Moki radial.
Old 08-04-2012, 01:16 PM
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Did you know that Moki radial has the opposite to master slave rods offset closer to each other in 5-cyl radials?

Reason for this in my opinion could be either to dampen certain harmonics or to increase the offbeat engine sound making it rattle more like the normal 1:1 size radials. A friend from our field with the 250cc version told me this fact today at the field. We speculated the reason there but could not be sure why that feature was built in.
Old 08-04-2012, 05:19 PM
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ORIGINAL: JariV

Did you know that Moki radial has the opposite to master slave rods offset closer to each other in 5-cyl radials?

I don't quite understand what you are saying. Can you elaborate?

Are you saying that the slave rods are offset as far as degrees to an even segment (arc) of the circle so that firing is not even around the circle?

Whatever they did, I like it!
Old 08-04-2012, 05:23 PM
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http://photo.5irc.com//album/2010/08...1095635033.jpg
I like use a 4mm drill or milling cutter. it is can easy fixed cam. the<font size="2"> cam follower of</font>saito small engine is 4mm diameter. this method is suit saito30-125a
Old 08-04-2012, 06:11 PM
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To Sr Telemaster150, The Raven, Cougar429, Lopflyers, Hobbsy, and any I missed.

This is a follow up on my<u> FA-56 with no compression</u>. Posts 22308-22331,  Pages 893, 894

Checked the timing before disassembly and all looked okay. Did a complete tear down. There was a massive amount of carbon on top of the piston, combustion chamber and even more in the exhaust chamber!  The cam was worn somewhat so I changed it plus tappets. One old tappet was slightly mushroomed on the cam end. It had enough of a ridge that it would not push out the top so I had to remove the cam anyway to drop it down.

Replaced the valves, springs, bearings (replace main with SS open bearing, front with sealed bearing. ) and I replaced the piston ring. The cylinder looked good as well as the piston.(I now have more $ in this used engine than a new one costs!) But reworking it was fun.

Mounted it on a test stand and ran it today. Compression is there but I am hoping for more when the new parts are broken in. (Re: ring/valves)
I did have a hard time getting it started but I think I flooded it since fuel was running out the muffler. Once running and HS needle was adjusted, it was smooth at high speed and low speed and in between. I don't have more than 5 minutes on it at this time. Rechecked the valve gaps and tighten up one just a tad.

So far I'm happy. I may have the fuel tank too low on the test stand causing the hard starting. I have no experience starting a Saito 4C., only 2c engines.

Sorry it took so long to get back here but I had to place several orders for parts, of course not at the same time! Didn't plan ahead.
Thanks for all of the suggestions: <u>Carbon on the valve seats was the winner!!</u>
Bob
P.S. Maybe I've earned a Saito Club number now! Hint, hint.
Old 08-04-2012, 06:38 PM
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Here are some pictures of the internals of the Fa-56 I talked about above:
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