Allright guys ive read and read and read and found nothing! or else im just too tired to read any more... [:'(]
anyways i was given an asp 80 (old school) 4 stroker engine. the problem being is it wont run now, ive seen it run but not recently. last time i saw it run it sounded allright but when it was given to me it was fiddled with. So my questions are...
1. what were the low end/high end needle factory setting for the asp 80 (or magnum as i've read that they say are the same)?
2. when the valves are adjusted does it matter wich stroke the engine is on? or as long as that the piston is in TDC???
3. can i get a rebuild kit and where? for wich model engine? magnum .91???
where should i set the needle for starters??? im using Omega 15% fuel i've gone through 2 cycles of glow driver and no luck starting this bad boy!? imy patience is getting thin [>:] help!
thanks-Raf

The engine is a lot like the current Magnum 91 engine.

The High Speed needle is 2 1/2 turns out from all the way in. Screw the needle all the way in and back it out 2 1/2 turns.

The Low Speed needle is 4 1/2 turns in from all the way out. Screw the needle all the way until it stops and then screw in 4 1/2 turns

There are two different top dead centers of the piston as far as the valves go because the cam only run half the speed of the crankshaft. You want the one that is the compression stroke.

Here is a link to the Magnum 80 owner's manual. You can download it to your computer and print it out or read it whenever you want to.

http://media.hobbypeople.net/manual/210970.pdf

Here's a company in the USA where the engine origionally came from that still sells parts for the engine though they no longer sell the engine itself. This is a link to just the ASP 80 parts....

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Search/D...hType=Standard

Here's a company's ASP catalog page in England that still sells the 80 and they will sell in the US.....

http://www.justengines.unseen.org/ASP.htm

Enjoy,

Jim

well, i adjusted the needles per the book and wah wah wah...waawaaaaaaa....
nada, zip, zero zilch no dice i found a neat GIF to help everyone with the compression stroke deal.
any other ideas? they would greatly be appreciated..
ive heard of taking the engine apart and simmering it in a crockpot full of anti-freeze and that will clean it in and throughout. so any ideas short of rebuilding this bad boy or what to check for is appreciated.
Raf-

Does your glow plug have any glow in it?

yes it does about as hot as the sun its mounted upside down and i had it right side up, i had the same results both ways. it backfires through the carb every now and again. [X(]

Does the engine have compression?

Has it fired any at all?

You say you have tried to start the engine upright as well as inverted?

Do you have it primed with fuel?

Is the glow plug wet?

Does the engine have compression? i hear a "hiss" in the muffler im assuming on the exhaust stroke

Has it fired any at all? in the past it has it used to be on a razzle

You say you have tried to start the engine upright as well as inverted? yes i mounted it right side up and the carb seemed higher than the tank so i inverted the engine, now it seems to blow or backfire through the carb i dont really get too much exhaust out of the muffler.

Do you have it primed with fuel? yes but the fuel doesn't seem to keep flowing into the carb

Is the glow plug wet? every now and again when it hydro locks it is.

i know its hard to "diagnose" and engine especially since its not in front of you but ireally appreciaqte you helping me out. this is my first 4 stroke.
Thanks-Raf

My first fourstroke was a NEW ASP 65. I treated it like it was a two stroke. Everything went fine.

When I said has it ever fired or hit a lick, I was talking about today when you were trying to start it?

All model engines are pretty simple, they need fire and fuel and air and thats it. You say your glow plug is hot so what about the tank. Are you seeing fuel going through the line? Are there bubbles? If all that is good I would go to the valves. Take the valve cover off and rotate the engine, are the rockers going up and down and pushing on the valve stems? Is there a gap between the valve stem and rocker when on the compression stroke? You must have the proper valve clearence ( gap between the rocker and valve stem). Thats pretty much all I can think of. If all this checks out and still does not run I would pack it up and send it back to the manufacturer for service.

well it was like spin spin spin poof! when it was inverted it blew out through the carb like a whale. now i dont know much about 4 st. but im about a frogs hair away from pulling it and putting my 40 fx on it again! the 4 stroke is on a clipped wing cubby. i wanted the .40 for a combat corsair! talk about a fast ride!!! [8D] the four stroke seemed almost tight.?!? my starter went hasta la bye-bye so i took the cone and attatched it to a drill to attempt to run it on the cubby but no dice. its an old engine and dirty it is, but i know it runs darnit! [:@] if i pull it apart what are the chances i can re-use the old seals on it? i.e. head gaskets etc?? or is it a hobby no-no?

Chances of re-using the seals is pretty good. But I'm not so sure that a disassembly will do you any good?

Typically, an electric drill does not spin a model engine fast enough to start it.

Enjoy,

Jim

its a heavy duty electric but you might be right. if you hand flip it is that technically fast spinning? thats where i came to the drill.
i think its between the valves and the needles but darnet if i can find the cause... i dont have the feeler gauge with the engine what should i use? a piece of paper? i tell ya this thing is gonna drive me nuts! yes there are bubbles what that mean? i know there arent any leaks in the fuel system though. the rockers are pushing the valves how much clearence. .4-.10 hmm and with out a feeler gauge?
-Raf

A sheet of notebook paper would do for now as a gage. But the actual dimension is .0015" to .004" (This is the inch conversion of the metric setting)

Enjoy,

Jim

The bubbles mean that you have an air leak somewhere in your fuel system. Pull the tank and replace the fuel tubing. Hold the tank underwater and blow into one of the lines while holding the other shut. Watch for bubbles. The tank should be completely sealed, if you have bubbles underwater you have a leak and it should be repaired.

Also, I know this is basic but, you do have a pressure line from the muffler to the tank, right? Replace that line also.

it seems as if the muffler line doesnt pressurize the tank very well...??? or as if its struggling to supply the fuel to the carb.

As I said before, Pull the tank and do the water test, also remember to replace all your fuel lines including the pressure line from the muffler. Then reinstall and fill it with fuel, open your needle valve to recommended amount of turns, hold your finger over the exhaust opening in the muffler then crank the engine with your starter without the glow starter. You should see fuel going into the carb. When you do connect your glo igniter and fire it up

Poke a pin in the muffler pressure hole to make sure it is clear. I have seen them stopped up with carbon etc.