Hyjinx

Sad but common unfortunately. Thanks for helping her out OK. Good on you brother. Best wishes to you Magyar. Fifty years plus is a special thing. Inspiring.
i need a help here OS people
I have exausted all the claims of having a #47062700 Reduction gear for the Sirius FR-300 that went down two weeks ago.
Have found only one in Quebec but the hobby shop that says they have it won't ship or sell to a USA resident. Weird but that's what the guy says.
I really want to find this part or a parts motor to scavenge.
Found lots on the net from differing sources. None have been real or could deliver the part upon request.
I really want to fly this motor again.
Gotta be one under a workbench dusty and rusting.....please😄
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magyar4914

thank you for the reply. I will try to post soon.

magyar4914

thanks for your nice words. It's hard to be alone especially during these days of quarantine. Stay safe and healthy

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

can you post a photo of the gear ?? please do

Jim

Hyjinx

Here it is Jim
In all its former glory. Really having a hard time finding it. Wondering if I could get it printed by a job shop that can print metal.
I think a machinist recreation would be a way to expensive one off.
Sure would like to run this engine again.
Thanks for asking....

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

Hyjinx,
you know if you call SDP (Stock Drive Products) maybe they can make you one ??

516-328-3300

Jim

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Reminds me of the timing gear on my 305 chevy when it hit 127K miles between the time gear and the rounded off cam lobes I was surprised it even started..

Hyjinx

Thanks Jim
I will check em out. Appreciate the thought.
Aaron

Hyjinx

Pretty hard to kill a small block Chevy!

GallopingGhostler

Here's a site that may be able to link you with someone that may be able to help nearby where you live:

https://www.modelaircraft.org/club-finder

This is the website for the Academy of Model Aeronautics, who have model airplane club sites all over US. You can put in your city name and state and search radius. It will return the club name and location, and a point of contact (usually one of the club officers) with a phone number to call and E-mail link. For example, since the only information of your location is Ohio, I plugged in Akron and 25 mile radius, it came up with 13 clubs.

They would be your best bet. Another is to inquire at a local model airplane hobby shop near you. They should be able to give you the name of the clubs in the area and who to contact.

This way, you may be able to find help. Also, they may be able to work with you and may be even have club members who may want to purchase items.

As with all flu's, I figure as others predict that as we head toward the warmer season, this pandemic will subside. Meanwhile, it will allow you to get in touch with people who can help. As in all things, people are people and although some are good some are not so good. However, overall I'd say that contacting a club officer would be reasonably safe as to be an officer must have a certain amount of integrity. They must ensure the safety of field operations and solidarity of the club. If you don't have luck with one, then there are other clubs and members to seek out for help.

Good luck.

1 John 3:16 - And we know love by this, that He laid down His life for us, and we ought to lay down our lives for the brethren.

magyar4914

Can anyone help me identify these engines? They are part of my husband's estate and I know nothing about them. I have numbered them. Do you know what kind of engines they are and what planes they would be for? I would like to sell but need to have a little information. Thank you soooo much.
Can anyone help me identify these engines

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Nos. 1, 3, and 5 are OS Max .91 VR-DF. These are what was called ducted fan engines. Nos. 1 and 3 appear to have the original Ducted fan Assembly and if you have the long skinny pipe that goes with it you got something a collector would be interested in acquiring. No. 5 looks to be in not as good of condition and missing the other parts would be worth less than half of the other two. Engines No 2 and 6 are BMV Ducted Fan engines and are not as sought out as the O.S Max engine but still valuable. The Bob Violett Duct Fan was probably mated to a BMV engine. Bob Violett had a company that specialized in Ducted Fan engines and airplanes at the time. They are still around but I think Bob is gone. Now days they sell electric and turbine power ARF airplanes. These engines date from the 1980s. Your husband was a scale jet flier I take it? Back in the 80s model jet engines were not readily available as they are now and electrics still lacked the batteries to be effective using a ducted fan. If you wanted a scale jet without a propeller stuck on the nose you went with a ducted fan assembly powered by a special glow engine and exhaust set up like your husband had here.

Now to the part you really want to know I would estimate these engines depending on the condition and the completeness of the set up to be worth on a scale of $150 to $400 range each. A lot will depend on condition! You can't gauge an engine's condition without and understanding them and being able to hold them and knowing if they will run. Ducted fan engine are a nich market too so how and where you sell them will make a difference too. They would NOT be a fast sell but they would sell eventually.
Any of you other guys have something you can add or corrections you care to make to my statements?

I remember you saying you had some balsa wood you would like to liquidate if you can send me a private message with what you have I may be interested. I can reply from the PM with an email if you prefer to handle the conversation that way

Mike

Hyjinx

Hey Jim
I have them qouting the gear. Thanks for the lead buddy.
Seem like the right company to try with. Thanks again...

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I took the liberty to see if there was anyone looking for these types of engines. I discovered there is someone on another RC forum that was looking for these type of engines you wish to sell. I can have him post his interest over here if you would like. It would give you an opportunity to contact one another if you are interested?

Hyjinx

Here is a short video of the FR-300 I failed the gear in. Listen to the bearing noise. Pretty pronounced at idle. I will replace them during this reassembly if the gear shows up. ( Or not if it ends up on a display shelf with a wasted cam gear)
its a beautiful thing.
It's short, won't bore you, and only contains g rated dumb statements. Lol

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

that's great, now just if the price is right, but just make sure the gears are strong enough to hold up to 15 gallons !!

you see, to me, there must be those 2 gears setting somewhere on some shelf as a stock product. so all they need to do is connect the 2 gears together with a shaft..


good luck !!
Jim

Hyjinx

Yes. Seems pretty easy to mock up if stock parts were on a shelf. Or fit a stock blank to it after removing the damaged outer diameter and teeth.
Or just scan and print in powdered metal ( I know that is happening now too).
I still can't believe I haven't found one under a bed rusting somewhere yet. I beat the bushes till the leaves fell off. Lol

Gubling

Hello everyone. Some days ago I found my father's old plane engine, it is a OS max 40fsr.
It didn't turn nothing all parts were fixed and I put it into a cage in gasoline for a day. It was less rusty and more cleanable but it wasn't turning either and the carburetor continued stucked. I talked to my dad and he told me to use gasoline + zotal (a strong degreaser) and let it a day, so I did that. Two days later i am here with a cleaner engine but it doesn't turn yet. Could someone help me about it? I've read of putting in intro nitro fuel but now in quarentine I can't. Thanks you.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Where are you located Grubling? Here is what I suggest. I have bought several locked up 2 cycles and brought them to life this way.
Sounds like caster oil build up. Get some good leather welding gloves or something thing to protect your hands. Place the engine on a pan lined with foil and heat it in the over to 225 to 250 for 30 mins. Take it out and see if it will move, if not put it back in for another 15 to mins and bump the temp to 275 but no higher.. Once free get some after run oil (I use Marvel Mystery Oil for pneumatic tools) in it all you need is a few drop in the intake and the exhaust port and turned over repeatedly. Add a little more oil and repeat. When you work the engine don't forget to work the carburetor barrel to and the needle valve if they are stuck too. You can put the muffler in unattached to clean it too. Let it sit in the oven until you get done with the engine and wipe it down first with a clean dry rag. After the engine has been freed up and cooled down completely try and remove the carb to check any "O" ring sealing it to the engine it may need replacing.

Gubling

Hey thanks you very much. Im from the south of Spain. I will try that. It lets me take off the carburetor and the O-ring seems to be fine, when I post 10 times I'll be able to post photos. I've been able to remove the cover side that doesn't have the crankcase and clean better from inside. Will keep you informed.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

If I realized you were in Spain I would have posted temperatures in Celsius instead of Fahrenheit! Welcome to the hobby and never fail to ask a question it is the only way to learn in this hobby and it will always save you a mistake or two down the load. It doesn't matter if you are 8 or 80 years old there is always something new to learn. That is what keeps all us old farts in the hobby we still get challenged by it.
I suspect your engine problem is just a fine film of fuel left in the engine after it last run before storage and the castor oil in the fuel acts like glue when it dries out. Heat melts the glue and frees up the moving parts. Glow fuel sitting long term in an engine is bad for it. The alcohol the major component draws moisture that can rust roller bearing if the engine has them. The Castor oil necessary for lubrication and more important for cooling forms a gum and causes the engine to seize up. Glow fuel has changed a lot over time you can get fuel with all synthetic oils which won't gum the engine but it doesn't do as god of job as cooling. I prefer a hybrid fuel, a fuel that uses mostly synthetic oil but still has a little castor oil for cooling and protection. I always run the tank dry and work after run engine oil into the engine at the end of everyday flying. In long term storage engines are best checked and oiled regularly to keep them in good shape. I will guarantee someone will argue against my choice of fuel and they will make excellent points, fuel choice comes down to personal preferences, experiences, and how and what you are flying.

Gubling

Thanks you very much for the support. I thought you were talking on Fahrenheit degrees because of your location. Yes, my problem is derivated of Castor Oil due to the engine has been in a drawer for 15 years. It is really like a glue and imposible to remove using other way so tomorrow I will test heating it. Thanks for all the tips! Will ask here any question I had.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

A slow heating in an oven has brought a lot of glow engines back to life.

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

magyar4914, you have to decide how fast you want to sell the engines, and if you want top price, or just unload them. too bad I can't use any of them.

to add, I would think the BVM if in good running shape it should be worth a little more money than an OS engine of the same size. now, I don't know if the BVM are still being made, if it's not in good running shape just unload it, some one would want it for parts.

I can not say anything about the fans because I have never priced them, and of course I can not see/hold them,

it is my advice for you to say in the add that you will pay the shipping. so add the price of shipping in the price of the engine. don't worry about getting the exact price for the engine that it is worth, <that is too stressful! so if you have to sell an engine for $10, $15 or $20 less than it is worth just be happy that some one that loves engines is happy to have it.
if an engine is worth $300 it may take a year or longer to sell, I had an engine that was worth $150 that was never started, after 2 years of posting it now and then I posted it for $115 shipped and I sold it, and it went with a brand new muffler I paid $60 for. <that is how the hobby can be ! on the other side of it I sold a broken parts-engine for $70 four hours after I posted it.

there are many very good people in this hobby !!! they will help you to no end, they will give you their shirt off their back, I have had people give me good engines and other that sold me brand new engines for half what they should have received. I too have given out engines in honer of the people in this hobby that has given me engines.

by the way, do you have the exhaust pipes for those engines, they should be tube that are 16 or 18 inches long. they could be worth $20 to $80 each depending in the shape they are in, or rather new or not.

good luck !!
Jim

magyar4914

Thank you Jim for all of the information and suggestions. I think I saw something among his airplane things that look like maybe the exhaust pipes. I will take a picture and post so you can tell me if that's what they are. I don't want to get top price - just a fair price. Do you think ebay or rc universe would be a better place to post them? I'll try and post the pics in the next few days Thanks again for your help - much appeciated