I have a os FL 70, not the surpass 70!!! The engine is mounted upside down and holds and idle horribly but idles wonderfully with the glowplug is on. I have long lost the stock air-bleed setting from messing around with it. I emailed OS and the guy said that becuase the engine is upside down, fuel puddles at the glow plug, killing the engine. He said I would benefite from an onboard glow starter which makes sence to me. I was just wondering were i could get one of these. I was also thinking though, wouldn't the glow starter stay on all the time, thus burning up your reciever battery really fast. A friend told me that a onboard glow starter could be set so the glowplug turns on at idle but shots of at higher throttle settings. Is this true, becuase man that would work out great. Any advice please?

Your friend is right Cambo. If you decide to get an onboard glow, make sure the battery that comes with it is at least 1100 mAh. The kind I have has a pilot light that you can mount in the cockpit to observe when the glow is working. Mine Y's into the throttle servo and can be adjusted to only come on at idle.

Tim is right. I use a 1400 mA Nicad set to come on when I get to about 1/4 throttle. I use micro switches I "borrowed" from the Navy but you can get them from Radio Shack. Most of my four cycles don't need it and placement of the tank makes all the difference that and using a hot plug (enya #3 is what I use in all my 4 cycles). I very seldom flame out at idle in my inverted engines but it only takes once to bend an airplane. On board ignition is cheap insurance. As far as fuel puddling in the plug area at idle, I find that hard to believe. The engine is turning at about 2200 rpm and the fuel would never have a chance to fill that area plus it's HOT in there and it would vaporize. That's just my opinion though.

All of the current on board glow systems use a separate battery to power them and only run at idle. This cut in and out function is adjustable on most glow drivers. How does the engine run right side up? Are you using an OS F plug? Are you using the correct fuel and is the engine tuned properly. I would make sure and then invest in an onoard glow system. There is a weight penalty, cost, work involved in adding one of these systems. On an old motor, It may be more trouble then its worth.

I make my own from an old servo and a micro switch and wire the servo into a Y harness with the throtle then use a servo wheel ground to the shape of a cam an ajust it to come on at 1/4 to1/3 throtle. I have purchased a 4400 mil nicad and this system works great.I tried two of those comercial drivers and they didn't work so I made my own!

Sorry, misunderstood, fl70 is a current generation 4 stroke. strike alot of what I just said.[&o]

Man, some fast replies, thanks alot. I just thought of trying to tune the engine rightside up. I will try that first. Can someone post a link to were i can get one of these glowstarters also. I am pretty sure that tower hobbies sells one but it involves soltering some connections. I would like to avoid that since i am not the best solterer in the world.
Also what type of fuel should I be running.

Ya it is a type f glow plug

Yes low@slow, from what I've learned here at RCU, an air-bleed carb can be a bear when the engine is inverted. I've never tried it though. rctrax, that is a very good tip about grinding a servo wheel into an eccentric to operate a micro-switch. How did you grind it?

Cambo, here is a link to the brand I'm using. I bought the one with a smaller battery than this one and ended up changing it to a bigger battery. There is no soldering with this one. I would imagine 15% nitro would be the best for that 70.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...P?&C=PDC&V=RAM

TimC, will i have to buy the 29 dollar charger for it or can i use the wall outlet charger that i use for my nicad reciever battery. I was looking down at the requirments and it said you need to buy a servo extension and remove the male end for charging. I gues there is no charge end? What does this mean? I gues i will also need to buy Y harness to attach to the throttle servo. Do the instructions explain how to hook it up into my electical system.

I made mine out of stuff I had around my shop. The most expensive thing was the cell. If you have a Du-bro glow driver you can use its charger to charge the cell if it is a 1400 mil sub-c or you can use the charger for the D size glow driver. A battery holder and switch from radio shack are cheap.

Cambo, what I did was change to a female Universal type end for charging the sub C cells with my Hobbico Elite. I see from looking at my system that I left the 800 mAh sub C in the glow starter and paralleled another 2000 mAh battery to this one. If I had it to do again, I would go with the simple Y harness from the throttle channel on my receiver to another servo/ micro-switch like rctrax described. You could use your glow lighter charger to charge the battery for your onboard glow if you bought the right terminal. These are available with wires for remote glow uses. You really need to be able to solder; it's not hard at all. Cover the soldered joint with heat shrink tubing and your set.

loughbd, on your system did you use the servo with the eccentric or use a switch on your transmitter to operate an on/off switch in the plane?

Servo wheel cut off like a cam. I'm cheap.

-----------------


You don't need no esteenking onboard glow for normal engine operation. You do need to ensure that your fuel tank centerline is not too high when compared to the spray bar centerline. You also need to drop your membership in the "1/2 turn only low speed adjustment club". <G>

Visit a pattern contest. Note all of the inverted four-stroke engines being used. Ask the pilots if they are using onboard glow heat. They will probably begin laughing as though you told a hilarious joke. Now, after you have discovered that adjusting a four-stroke engine for good inverted running is, indeed, possible, go home and get some practice adjusting your engine. Adjust it until it runs right. Don't be afraid to try different glow plugs, fuel, etc. In the end, the fuel will probably end up being YS 20/20 or something close. The glow plug will end up being an OS Type-F, or a clone of said plug.

There is nothing wrong with the OS FL-70. There is nothing wrong with an airbleed carb. If there was, YS would not have used one on their early YS-91 and Enya still wouldn't be using them on some of their high performance engines.

Although the FL-70 is ringless, I imagine it will take a little running time until the engine stabilizes enough for fine low speed carb adjustments to make much of a difference. You don't take a brand new engine out of the box, pop it onto a model inverted and then expect it to run perfectly immediately. For the low price of our engines, it is a miracle that they run as well as they do.

Try as hard as we might, these days, one must spend some time with their glow engine and their running characteristics in order to run them successfully. These are technical little beasts and they require the owner/operator to familiarize themselves with their running characteristics. If you don't have time to do this with a glow engine, do yourself a favor and go electric. There simply isn't any way of eliminating wrapping your noggin' around one of these fine little creatures in order to extract maximum performance.

If you'll decise to use an onboard glowstarter,leave away the receiver battery.
We don't use the receiver battery for nothing else but for the servos.
Smoke pumps,onboard glowstarters all use another battery.
I prefer a 2000mah to be sure.
Enjoy.
Kostas
Greece

Hi;Have seen several of those FLs in use!They require longer break in much more than you would think!Before you get to upset with it maybe ask for reply from owners!Eventually run fine but are a real bear to deal with for first gal.or so of fuel!

TimC i checked this product on Tower and says that you can only use this on-board glowdriver if you have a PCM tranmitter-receiver.
???????

Kostas, if you read the tech notes, it is explained:
***For this unit to operate properly with ONLY Futaba PCM***
***and ONLY Hitec RCD receivers, user must get an amplifier from Ram.***
This is a FREE plug and play module with connectors to simplify installation.
***Send the header card from this package and $4.00 to cover postage to Ram.***
***This module is not necessary for any other receivers.***

But can i use this charger with it http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHCE6&P=7
It is a tower hobbies nicad wall charger the chargers a 9.6 volt transmitter bettery and a 4.8 volt dc

Cambo, that charger will not charge a 1.2V battery. Are you using a glow starter off a panel now?

Oh, the ram battery is a 1.2 V. Is there someother cheap wall charger that tower sells our do i have to buy the 30 dollar one

Cambo, Tower sells glow starters with chargers for as little as $14.00.

Yeah,
Exactly what Ed said. Get the fuel tank where it belongs. This seems to be a lost piece of knowledge these days with all the ARFS around. But even ARF airplanes have some big mistakes. On the inverted setup the tank centerline should be slightly below the center of the carb on the FL-70 (where the fuel dumps into the venturi not the location of the Needle Valve as many engines now have remote needles).

Inverted 4 strokes are normally the easiest way to go. They start better that way and don't flood as easily. The valves allow excess fuel to be dumped each revolution. Just get your tank in the right location and quit fooling around with expensive fixes!

Jimnie