fiery

My Feedback: (2)

When all else fails ... RTFM.

I used Iron Bay regulators on the 300V shown below inverted in a Patty Wagstaff extra.

NEVER got it to run corectly. I took them off and followed Neil Tidey's clear instructions on set up in the manual.

Night and day. No issues thereafter.

I am sending this one back to the factory for a service and some new parts.

AeroFinn

Hi Fiery

Was your 300v mounted on a WM Extra if I remember it correctly? Anyways, it seems Laser engines do not like regulators. I' not sure what is the case with pumps, though..

fiery

My Feedback: (2)

That's the one. The WM Patty was decommissioned after the tail section broke off in storage as a result of a cyclone (what we in the southern pacific call a hurricane or typhoon). So, time for a little TLC for this LASER.

On the orginal set-up I also used muffler pressure with the regulators. Did not help.

Carosel43

It is interesting what you guys are saying about the regulators as I have always had my doubts about them despite what has been said about using them to fix problems. In my experience Laser engines are very tolerant of a fuel tank that's out of position. In general a lower tank is better than a high one but as long as its not too far out the engine can normally handle it. In the tank is out of position I found that normal tank pressure is very helpful but the needle is super sensitive. If the tank is in line then it should be a doddle to set up.

When the new website is finished I hope to do some more videos detailing the tuning procedure. There will not be any commentary, but there will be a written procedure to follow and the video will show this being done so people can hear the changes. One problem we often have is people getting obsessed with numbers, be it RPM, temperature or needle settings. While there are always benchmark settings for RPM they will vary day to day, and there is no correct needle setting for any engine and the specific engine/prop/plug/fuel/tank position/atmospheric conditions and even the airflow in the cowling all have an effect. as such the procedure is more important that the numbers.

It should be noted that until I started making these videos I had no idea where the needles were on the laser as I didn't care. why does it matter how many turns it is? if it runs to max power and throttles well its set right so just stop fiddling and fly it!

AeroFinn

Jon,

The tuning procedure tutorials on Laser web site is a very good idea! I assume I'v seen one or two of them, already? They were very usefull.

Btw, have you any video on your 360v? Which model was it mounted on?

Carosel43

The 360v is mounted to my 85'' jayracer. Shes about 22lbs and pretty unstoppable with the 360. 1/3 power is enough to fly

AeroFinn

I tried to do some googleing but I couldn't find much info on the model. Is it an arf? Just curious..

Carosel43

No idea to be honest. as its built very solidly I think it was once a kit but I have no idea who made it.

Heli-NuBee

Another great day of flying my Laser 300V powered GP Giant Stik. This combo gets a lot of attention at our flying field.


Best wishes and good safe flying.

Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)

Carosel43

Have you managed to find a suitable camera man yet?

AeroFinn

Hi Jon

Any new videos on the 360v / 300v?

I hope to maiden my 300v / GP Yak on Saturday if the weather permits..the fuel will be my regular 5% nitro / 17% Aerosave. The prop to start with will be an APC 20x8 (as that's what I have in hand.

Carosel43

the only one I have at the moment is my la7 and 300v. I think you have seen this one before.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=utpG_1Vf3TQ

Heli-NuBee

Hi Carosel43 (Jon),

Nope, I have not been able to get any video of the Laser as yet. A professional camera man did take some video of a couple of my radial engine powered planes at our War Bird event a month ago but he has not as yet delivered copies of his work to me.

Heli-Nubee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)

AeroFinn

Yup I have seem that one. I think I'v seen it many times, actually..

Ok, I tried to maiden my Yak / 300v but the weather was bad. As I had gone to the field I tested the engine anyways. I still need to tune the LS needles as they seem to be very rich and thus the engine does not idle reliably. The fuel is 17% aerosave and 5% nitro
I run 3 tanks through the engine.

I made a quick test of static thrust:
8200rpm with an Apc 20X8 and 9.35kg measured with a digital fish scale. Nice..

AeroFinn

Regarding tank set-up:

The laser instructions say that an open tank vent should be facing forward. Now this is a bit unclear wether it should be positioned outside the cowling to get the most pressure in the tanks as the model moves.

If such an arrangement is applied then the most pressure inside the tanks takes place when the model is moving fast i.e. level flying. On verticals the speed decreases and less pressure is generated in the tanks. Not good as the engine may go overly rich when flying level.
On the other hand if the open tank vents are positioned inside the cowling the tank ventilates freely but not much pressure is generated inside the tanks. Hence the fuel supply is based on engine suction and not varible pressure inside the tanks.

What do you think?

Carosel43

The open tank vent should be outside of the cowling as it also serves as the overflow for the fuel when filling the tanks. My 360 powered jayracer has a twin clunk setup on a single tank with only one small vent on the firewall (there is no cowling). the most important think is getting the tanks as close to inline with the carbs as possible. Due to the strong suction of laser engines there is not usually any problem with fuel flow and I have no problem with any of my models, no matter how aerobatic they are

Carosel43

I will be updating the instructions soon however and there will be more information on our website with pictures etc to make everything clearer.

AeroFinn

Ok thanks Jon this is very clear now!
I'm in fewer to fly the Yak as the 300v seem to be just a perfect engine for the model!

Even though I was aware the Apc is a faster prop than Menz I'm positively surprised by the 8200 rpm with low nitro fuel. I did not chase for any "numbers" but the engine runs at 8000+ rpm even when running a bit rich. I may be a bit beyond the optimal powerband but who cares as I have enough power in anyways. In addition the engine probably likes this light load prop during running-in phase

Carosel43

The apc is a fast prop and as I guess its pretty cold up there the engine will really sing. I am getting a good 7400 out of the menz now the engine is run in.

AeroFinn

Ok eventually I was lucky enough to have good weather to test the Great Planes Yak with a Laser 300v on it. The model behaved just brilliantly with unlimited performance. This was expected but I felt very happy to really feel and test it!

The only thing that puzzles me a bit is no oil is coming through a crankcase breather nipple. My 240v sprays some oil through the breathing nipple. As my 300v is very new with not much running time it may be the oil rings aren't yet doing their job as designed. There is oil coming through the exhausts, though. The engine is adjusted a tad on a rich side. When adjusted to the peak not much oil seem to be coming through exhausts.
All in all a very good maiden flight!

Carosel43

I had a fly with the 360v yesterday and was testing props. I was using menz wooden props and scored 7000 on 22x8, 6500 on 22x10 and 6100 on 24x8! It was amazing seeing the 24x8 going round, it really is a huge prop

AeroFinn

The 24" prop must shake and torque the model very much! When I went fro. 18" prop to 20" prop I definitely notice the bigger prop rotates the model when I slam the throttle..

I try to take a video on my Yak 300v next time I go to the field

P.s. Jon, do you use sae-30 or two stroke oil for general lubrication? I'v injected Aerosave 5ml through the breathing nipple every now and then as Aerosave gives very good anti-corrosion protection. I guess it should therefore work equally well in general lubrication as sae-30 or 2-stroke oil or did I miss something?

Carosel43

If the engine is flown regularly it is not necessary to add extra oil

AeroFinn

Yup that's what I thought. I'm just curious on what's the advantage of sae-30 oil over good quality synthetic oil that mixes with alcohol?

Carosel43

Using a model oil is a better bet long term. In truth the engines have changed greatly over the years and that line in the instructions is almost redundant. It only really applies to engines not flown often and not stored correctly so all the oil leaks out.

Also regarding the torque issues I do not have such a problem with the jayracer as it is so big and heavy. That said I have flown bug engines for so long now I automatically compensate for any swing so probably don't notice. This was very true when I let someone else fly my La7, he almost lost it on take off due to torque and yet I consider it very easy to take off