Club Laser?
#52
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RE: Club Laser?
Thanks Jay, I was surprised at its power, especially on 5% nitro, most likely I'll run a Bolly 13.5x6, now for a plane. I take it that your 1.80 is a single, mine is a twin, let us know how it goes.
#54
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RE: Club Laser?
Guys,
Don't be afraid to load the Laser up with a big propellor. It's got torque by the bucketfull.
I run a 13 x 8 on my 70, so a 13.5 x 6 will be fine.
Because the Laser doesn't rev it's ass off people assume that it's lacking in power. But as we in the club know this isn't the case.
Don't be afraid to load the Laser up with a big propellor. It's got torque by the bucketfull.
I run a 13 x 8 on my 70, so a 13.5 x 6 will be fine.
Because the Laser doesn't rev it's ass off people assume that it's lacking in power. But as we in the club know this isn't the case.
#55
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RE: Club Laser?
This is a recommendation from Laser:
LUBRICATE through the BREATHER NIPPLE on the rear of the crancase before and after the initial running in and after every 3 hours running. Lubricate the engine if it is not to be used for some time and before running again. The breather nipple can be extended with tubing. Oil may come out of the front bearing if the breather is restricted, there is a lot of oil in the crankcase or the engine is left with the nose down. This will not harm the engine.
--
Have for a laser 150 in operation for two years now. It works great.
Use 15% Aerosave oil and 8% Nitro, engine pointing down.
From time to time I pull the valve cover to check for valve clearance.
No problems, and everything is filled with oil there and no spot of corrosion.
Because the engine is leaking oil everywhere when it is stored after flying I know it must be lubricated well inside, and that is confimed every time when I open up the cover.
A month ago I started using the 200V engine. Filled it with a amount of oil through the breather when used the first time.
After that I did not apply extra lubrication the same way as I did with the 150.
It has a gallon through it and I noticed that it was loosing power when becoming warm, and was not as powerfull as in the beginning.
Today I pulled the valve-covers. It was quite dry inside, and one of the two spaces had the brownish muddy debree of corrosion inside.
So perhaps something to be aware of, it seems that, especially the twin, needs the insertion of oil through the breather before ande after flying sessions.
LUBRICATE through the BREATHER NIPPLE on the rear of the crancase before and after the initial running in and after every 3 hours running. Lubricate the engine if it is not to be used for some time and before running again. The breather nipple can be extended with tubing. Oil may come out of the front bearing if the breather is restricted, there is a lot of oil in the crankcase or the engine is left with the nose down. This will not harm the engine.
--
Have for a laser 150 in operation for two years now. It works great.
Use 15% Aerosave oil and 8% Nitro, engine pointing down.
From time to time I pull the valve cover to check for valve clearance.
No problems, and everything is filled with oil there and no spot of corrosion.
Because the engine is leaking oil everywhere when it is stored after flying I know it must be lubricated well inside, and that is confimed every time when I open up the cover.
A month ago I started using the 200V engine. Filled it with a amount of oil through the breather when used the first time.
After that I did not apply extra lubrication the same way as I did with the 150.
It has a gallon through it and I noticed that it was loosing power when becoming warm, and was not as powerfull as in the beginning.
Today I pulled the valve-covers. It was quite dry inside, and one of the two spaces had the brownish muddy debree of corrosion inside.
So perhaps something to be aware of, it seems that, especially the twin, needs the insertion of oil through the breather before ande after flying sessions.
#57
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RE: Club Laser?
Hans,
As you are using aerosave oil, as I do, you shouldn't need to use any other corrosion protection.
On the last run of the day I throttle up to full power for about 30 seconds to get the engine hot and then run the engine dry. Either by pinching the fuel line or disconnecting it.
The Aerosave oil offers the best corrosion protection of anything I have tried BUT, you must NOT mix it with a mineral based oil .
This could be some of your problem with your 200V.
As you are using aerosave oil, as I do, you shouldn't need to use any other corrosion protection.
On the last run of the day I throttle up to full power for about 30 seconds to get the engine hot and then run the engine dry. Either by pinching the fuel line or disconnecting it.
The Aerosave oil offers the best corrosion protection of anything I have tried BUT, you must NOT mix it with a mineral based oil .
This could be some of your problem with your 200V.
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RE: Club Laser?
ORIGINAL: Marcol
This could be some of your problem with your 200V.
This could be some of your problem with your 200V.
#63
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RE: Club Laser?
Yeah, I looked at their website, and that's why I think I have a 1.50. Weight and hieght seem to mach as well, but I notice the newer models have more "rounded" shape than mine, so I just trying to confirm. I also noticed earlier in the thread, someone mentioned a purple carb on a .70, I think it was. This one came from the estate of a local flying buddy, and I'm pretty sure he had it for at least 10 years.
#64
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RE: Club Laser?
Well it must be a 1.50. I ran it today and with an old 16x10 Classic prop it turned 8600 rpm. Saw up over 9K with a 16x8 APC, but could not get a good tach reading from the grey prop with the cloudy conditions today. Idle would tick over at 15-1600rpm. I was using Byrons 15% with 16% oil. This has to be the smoothest running four stroke I have ever run.
BTW, the guys at Laser said it was built in '96 or '97, based on the numbers stamped on the mount rail.
I need to get this puppy something to fly soon.
BTW, the guys at Laser said it was built in '96 or '97, based on the numbers stamped on the mount rail.
I need to get this puppy something to fly soon.
#65
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RE: Club Laser?
Looks like Moki is making an exact copy or licensed version of the Laser engines.
http://www.remekmotorok.net/index.htm
http://www.remekmotorok.net/index.htm
#66
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RE: Club Laser?
ORIGINAL: Skypilot_one
Looks like Moki is making an exact copy or licensed version of the Laser engines.
http://www.remekmotorok.net/index.htm
Looks like Moki is making an exact copy or licensed version of the Laser engines.
http://www.remekmotorok.net/index.htm
#67
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RE: Club Laser?
ORIGINAL: TLH101
Actually the only similarity is rear push rods.
ORIGINAL: Skypilot_one
Looks like Moki is making an exact copy or licensed version of the Laser engines.
http://www.remekmotorok.net/index.htm
Looks like Moki is making an exact copy or licensed version of the Laser engines.
http://www.remekmotorok.net/index.htm
Have read on a German forum that it is more a possible future direction than reality.
#68
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RE: Club Laser?
Guys,
First off I would like to thank you for getting this Laser forum going. I have been interested in the Laser for a long time. In particular, the Laser 70 is the motor I have had a lot of interest in. Anything you you guys can tell me about the motor including the pictures posted on the site would be very helpful indeed.
Again, thanks for a great forum.
First off I would like to thank you for getting this Laser forum going. I have been interested in the Laser for a long time. In particular, the Laser 70 is the motor I have had a lot of interest in. Anything you you guys can tell me about the motor including the pictures posted on the site would be very helpful indeed.
Again, thanks for a great forum.
#70
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RE: Club Laser?
I ran several Laser engines and made the experience that they run smoother when using "heavy" props.
Usually wood props are not so heavy than plastic ones (like APC or the new Graupner sonic).
But generally speaking this counts for all 4cycle engines.
Ulrich
Usually wood props are not so heavy than plastic ones (like APC or the new Graupner sonic).
But generally speaking this counts for all 4cycle engines.
Ulrich
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RE: Club Laser?
Mick
Are you THE Mick Reeves of UK modelling fame?
I own a Laser 300V. You don't see them come up for sale very often. Once owned, they are treasured.
I bought mine on the Engine sale forum here at RCU from an old gentleman who got too old to fly.
It was still NIB, he bought it from Proctor Enterprises, the US agent. I recall I could not negotiate as much of a discount on it compared to a new engine, as I normally can with other more run of the mill stuff.
I hope you find one that suits. They are stunning engines.
A new 360 twin is also available, but I have never seen a used one for sale
Are you THE Mick Reeves of UK modelling fame?
I own a Laser 300V. You don't see them come up for sale very often. Once owned, they are treasured.
I bought mine on the Engine sale forum here at RCU from an old gentleman who got too old to fly.
It was still NIB, he bought it from Proctor Enterprises, the US agent. I recall I could not negotiate as much of a discount on it compared to a new engine, as I normally can with other more run of the mill stuff.
I hope you find one that suits. They are stunning engines.
A new 360 twin is also available, but I have never seen a used one for sale
#74
RE: Club Laser?
I've always wanted a Laser engine since I first saw an article on them being developed sometime in te 80's. They looked like a cut above the rest at the time. Seems they still are.
Do they have a website? I've looked, but can only find US distributors.
Do they have a website? I've looked, but can only find US distributors.
#75
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RE: Club Laser?
The Laser V twins use one crankpin/crankthrow like the Enya VT-240. I can't see them running as smooth as a boxer with a double throw crank.
fiery,
Have you run the engine? Also, he is "the" Mick Reeves, model builder/musician/business owner, overall very nice guy. Unfortunately, I bought not one but two of his 1/6th scale glass Spitfire fuselages before the moulds were repaired to correct an alignment issue[]. I understand the new fuselages being produced are perfect now. The ones I purchased had great detail, too bad the nose was crooked opposite the required engine thrust. []
fiery,
Have you run the engine? Also, he is "the" Mick Reeves, model builder/musician/business owner, overall very nice guy. Unfortunately, I bought not one but two of his 1/6th scale glass Spitfire fuselages before the moulds were repaired to correct an alignment issue[]. I understand the new fuselages being produced are perfect now. The ones I purchased had great detail, too bad the nose was crooked opposite the required engine thrust. []