WACO YMF
Mike,
It all just comes down to preference. I would not worry about making the mount look scale as it just complicates things way too much IMO. I just don't want to see you crack the engine due to undue stresses on the mounting lugs. Your original mount may be fine it was just an observation of something to look for.
Knowing how much torque these big twins put out I would not trust a stand-off personally. If something does give way it will get ugly in a hurry.
I went back and found a few pics of my engine box on my WACO. It has the down/right thrust built into the box. I added 1/4" square stock to the firewall to locate the box. The box is bolted to the firewall with 5/16" bolts. The 1/4" square stock assures the box stay's put and returns to the proper location each time it is mounted. I did pin all the joints in the box with dowel rods once I was satisfied with it. I used the same firewall and engine box during the rebuild of the fuselage after the crash. Both of these parts survived with no damage, very strong set-up.
It all just comes down to preference. I would not worry about making the mount look scale as it just complicates things way too much IMO. I just don't want to see you crack the engine due to undue stresses on the mounting lugs. Your original mount may be fine it was just an observation of something to look for.
Knowing how much torque these big twins put out I would not trust a stand-off personally. If something does give way it will get ugly in a hurry.
I went back and found a few pics of my engine box on my WACO. It has the down/right thrust built into the box. I added 1/4" square stock to the firewall to locate the box. The box is bolted to the firewall with 5/16" bolts. The 1/4" square stock assures the box stay's put and returns to the proper location each time it is mounted. I did pin all the joints in the box with dowel rods once I was satisfied with it. I used the same firewall and engine box during the rebuild of the fuselage after the crash. Both of these parts survived with no damage, very strong set-up.
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WacoNut,
Thanks for the comments. I'm beginning to think along your lines. My fancy and expensive fabricated mounts are not necessary. I stopped with the version shown. If I had a radial engine and wanted to do the best scale job possible, I would go with the space frame with tubes like a typical full scale. It might look nice in there if you look really hard. My plan is to duplicate your box. Plenty stiff, and I'll put down and side thrust in the box as well. I will still need to adjust the throttle linkage which will be in the box., but holes will handle it.Did I mention I followed your lead on elevator servos too? Got rid of the single big servo in turtle deck and arrow shaft to elevators.. Replaced with two in tail. I am going to get a reverse direction for one servo to avoid the reversing harness. I've heard bad things about them.
Mike H
Waco Brotherhood # 132
Thanks for the comments. I'm beginning to think along your lines. My fancy and expensive fabricated mounts are not necessary. I stopped with the version shown. If I had a radial engine and wanted to do the best scale job possible, I would go with the space frame with tubes like a typical full scale. It might look nice in there if you look really hard. My plan is to duplicate your box. Plenty stiff, and I'll put down and side thrust in the box as well. I will still need to adjust the throttle linkage which will be in the box., but holes will handle it.Did I mention I followed your lead on elevator servos too? Got rid of the single big servo in turtle deck and arrow shaft to elevators.. Replaced with two in tail. I am going to get a reverse direction for one servo to avoid the reversing harness. I've heard bad things about them.
Mike H
Waco Brotherhood # 132
Mike,
I have my tail servo's on 2 channels. I can adjust the center and throw independently for each servo and it works very well. If you go with a revered servo it can be done but just makes life a bit more difficult. The servo's in the tail make it a bit more bullet proof on the linkage aspect but the weigh penalty is a bummer.
Later!!
Anthony
I have my tail servo's on 2 channels. I can adjust the center and throw independently for each servo and it works very well. If you go with a revered servo it can be done but just makes life a bit more difficult. The servo's in the tail make it a bit more bullet proof on the linkage aspect but the weigh penalty is a bummer.
Later!!
Anthony
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As for the first page of this thread, it will get fixed. They are going from newest to oldest in the process of restoring the site of the site.
I do agree the site was a real PITA a few days ago. But things are coming together slowly. And for many things, like thread Subscriptions, I have found there are many ways to get to the same point. It's just a lot of doors are not open yet.
I do agree the site was a real PITA a few days ago. But things are coming together slowly. And for many things, like thread Subscriptions, I have found there are many ways to get to the same point. It's just a lot of doors are not open yet.
Have you heard anything about why, when we get email notification of a new post to the thread, and click on the link...it always takes me (us?) to this post of yours from AUGUST? I even tried unscribing from the thread and resubscribing, but it didn't help...odd thing is/was, that I wasn't getting ANY notifications before the change to the site, and all of a sudden after the change, I was getting the notifications...even when everyone else wasn't...and I never had any trouble with having to re-log on or any of those things...just takes me back several pages to early in the thread when I click the link!
Have a Blessed Day!
George
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WacoNut,
Appreciate your comments on elevator servos. My issue is I'm still in dark ages with electronics. My three transmitters are all identical JR 72 MHZ, and over 10 years old. With the investment on this big one, it's time to upgrade to 2.4 GHZ. I know everyone has a favorite, but I'll ask if you prefer one over another for your YMF. While I'm at it, if I remember correctly, you have four aileron servos. Do you have them on multiple channels as well? This might already have been discussed but I can't remember the details.
Thanks,
Mike H
Waco Brotherhood # 132
Appreciate your comments on elevator servos. My issue is I'm still in dark ages with electronics. My three transmitters are all identical JR 72 MHZ, and over 10 years old. With the investment on this big one, it's time to upgrade to 2.4 GHZ. I know everyone has a favorite, but I'll ask if you prefer one over another for your YMF. While I'm at it, if I remember correctly, you have four aileron servos. Do you have them on multiple channels as well? This might already have been discussed but I can't remember the details.
Thanks,
Mike H
Waco Brotherhood # 132
Mike,
You are really opening up a can of worms, it's like the Chevy, Ford, Dodge conversation. I would say just check out several different transmitters and see which one floats your boat. I am using a Hitec Aurora 9c in my WACO and personally I like the radio. Touch screen programming and all the bells and whistles at a good price. I think I paid $450 with (4) 7 channel receivers included. Do not take this as an endorsement or a recommendation it is just my preference. Some guys love them some guys hate them. All my planes are flying on this radio.
I will say I have read where a couple guys lost planes due to lockout but I have heard that about all the brands. Luck of the draw I think.
I am using 2 channels for the elevators and 2 channels for the Aileron's. I am also using a Smart-Fly power expander which I highly recommend. This distributes power directly to the servo and takes the power load off of the receiver. It has 3 outputs per channel and makes the radio set-up easy. It eliminates the need for "Y" connectors and offers dual battery redundancy as well. I am running (2) 6v 4200Mah packs for the radio gear and another one for the ignition.
I recommend you do a lot of research and ask a lot of questions before deciding which way to go. It all comes down to what you feel comfortable with in the end. You do not want to have that sick feeling in the pit of your stomach each time you go to fly on whether your equipment is up to the task. Buy the system you want and fly the crap out of it in another airframe 1st.
Later!!
Anthony
You are really opening up a can of worms, it's like the Chevy, Ford, Dodge conversation. I would say just check out several different transmitters and see which one floats your boat. I am using a Hitec Aurora 9c in my WACO and personally I like the radio. Touch screen programming and all the bells and whistles at a good price. I think I paid $450 with (4) 7 channel receivers included. Do not take this as an endorsement or a recommendation it is just my preference. Some guys love them some guys hate them. All my planes are flying on this radio.
I will say I have read where a couple guys lost planes due to lockout but I have heard that about all the brands. Luck of the draw I think.
I am using 2 channels for the elevators and 2 channels for the Aileron's. I am also using a Smart-Fly power expander which I highly recommend. This distributes power directly to the servo and takes the power load off of the receiver. It has 3 outputs per channel and makes the radio set-up easy. It eliminates the need for "Y" connectors and offers dual battery redundancy as well. I am running (2) 6v 4200Mah packs for the radio gear and another one for the ignition.
I recommend you do a lot of research and ask a lot of questions before deciding which way to go. It all comes down to what you feel comfortable with in the end. You do not want to have that sick feeling in the pit of your stomach each time you go to fly on whether your equipment is up to the task. Buy the system you want and fly the crap out of it in another airframe 1st.
Later!!
Anthony
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WacoNut,
Thanks. Can of worms? Agree. But Hitec is one I've looked at. Also Spectrum.
I can tell you I wrecked two this season with an old transmitter. First time I thought it might be power line interference. Just did what it wanted and went in. Second one with same transmitter took a quick un commanded roll into dirt. While looking for wreckage of second one in an overgrown field, I had transmitter along to see if I could move controls to hear it. Back fell off transmitter and battery fell out. I looked at it and realized service shop put in wrong screws and broke the plastic.What else did they screw up? No name for them. About then I decided I need to upgrade.
Thanks,
Mike H
Waco Brotherhood # 132
Thanks. Can of worms? Agree. But Hitec is one I've looked at. Also Spectrum.
I can tell you I wrecked two this season with an old transmitter. First time I thought it might be power line interference. Just did what it wanted and went in. Second one with same transmitter took a quick un commanded roll into dirt. While looking for wreckage of second one in an overgrown field, I had transmitter along to see if I could move controls to hear it. Back fell off transmitter and battery fell out. I looked at it and realized service shop put in wrong screws and broke the plastic.What else did they screw up? No name for them. About then I decided I need to upgrade.
Thanks,
Mike H
Waco Brotherhood # 132
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Flew my Great Planes ARF at a club memorial fly-in. Here is some video.
http://youtu.be/lw--MsCUVrE
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Thanks Robert...odd thing is now that I asked the question, it started bringing me to the correct post! Whodathunkit...
Thanks!
Have a Blessed Day!
George
Thanks!
Have a Blessed Day!
George
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Adjustable stab incidence
The WACO YMF 3/5 had an adjustable horizontal stab. The Incidence could be adjusted. I have considered doing this on one of my models. I may attempt it on the one that I'm currently framing up. I have several more of these kits (1/5th Scale), and I think that this is very possible to accomplish. I'll keep you posted and let you know how it works out.
Bill, AMA 4720
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Dummy Engine
Hi
I like to know where you purchased your dummy engine from, because I'm having a hard time finding one
please e-mail me @ [email protected] with ware you purchased it.
Thank You Raymond Chalou
I like to know where you purchased your dummy engine from, because I'm having a hard time finding one
please e-mail me @ [email protected] with ware you purchased it.
Thank You Raymond Chalou
Thread Starter
Jim, I used 2-56 threaded rod inside a piece of 1/8" aluminum tube that I slightly flattened to an oval shape. When cut to the proper length it slips over the clevis ends and nicely replicates the scale bracing
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Dummy Engine
Here's a photo of a PRO/E model I made a couple years ago. It's a scratch design of a 9 cyl engine.Did it to understand them better. No intent to build anything.
Does anybody know of a cheap way to make a dummy of the front part of this? A few years ago I had some parts made with stereo lithography. Cost me a bundle. Looking for something cheap. 3 D printing?
Thanks,
Mike H
Waco Brotherhood # 132
Here's a photo of a PRO/E model I made a couple years ago. It's a scratch design of a 9 cyl engine.Did it to understand them better. No intent to build anything.
Does anybody know of a cheap way to make a dummy of the front part of this? A few years ago I had some parts made with stereo lithography. Cost me a bundle. Looking for something cheap. 3 D printing?
Thanks,
Mike H
Waco Brotherhood # 132
Mike,
I think 3D printing is a good option. Not sure how much the finished part would weigh. You do need a 7cyl engine for the WACO and unfortunately there are no good options available for the 1/3 scale. If you come up with something let me know as I would love to have a better dummy for mine.
Later!!
Anthony
I think 3D printing is a good option. Not sure how much the finished part would weigh. You do need a 7cyl engine for the WACO and unfortunately there are no good options available for the 1/3 scale. If you come up with something let me know as I would love to have a better dummy for mine.
Later!!
Anthony
Dummy Engine
Here's a photo of a PRO/E model I made a couple years ago. It's a scratch design of a 9 cyl engine.Did it to understand them better. No intent to build anything.
Does anybody know of a cheap way to make a dummy of the front part of this? A few years ago I had some parts made with stereo lithography. Cost me a bundle. Looking for something cheap...
Here's a photo of a PRO/E model I made a couple years ago. It's a scratch design of a 9 cyl engine.Did it to understand them better. No intent to build anything.
Does anybody know of a cheap way to make a dummy of the front part of this? A few years ago I had some parts made with stereo lithography. Cost me a bundle. Looking for something cheap...
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Hello,
I also continue to work with the model WACO. My 1:3 scale. I will make this model fully GFK / CFK on a "sandwich" in a negative form. That's where this Topic:
WACO YMF-5 (M1:3) composit
Albert
Waco Brother 229
I also continue to work with the model WACO. My 1:3 scale. I will make this model fully GFK / CFK on a "sandwich" in a negative form. That's where this Topic:
WACO YMF-5 (M1:3) composit
Albert
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YMF 1/3 Barth
WacoNut,
I took your advice and pitched the standoff design in favor of wood box. Agree, much stiffer. Will put down and side thrust angles on back side of box. Can epoxy box on to firewall and bolt thru as well. Next question on firewall. Looks like it could use more to make sure it stays on.
Thanks,
Mike H
Waco Brotherhood # 132
WacoNut,
I took your advice and pitched the standoff design in favor of wood box. Agree, much stiffer. Will put down and side thrust angles on back side of box. Can epoxy box on to firewall and bolt thru as well. Next question on firewall. Looks like it could use more to make sure it stays on.
Thanks,
Mike H
Waco Brotherhood # 132