I'm in this camp. I can fly the tail, its cool. BUT when they come out with this gizmo in a version that will work with my DX6 radio gear I'm all over it!!

http://www.fmadirect.com/detail.htm?...770&section=29


Imagine - computerized active flight assistance - you can get into a hover, walk away, leave the controller on the ground, and the heli will continue to maintain a PERFECT HOVER and eventually land after it runs out of power. Even in a WIND!!

A-freakin-Mazing, but some might say its "cheating" and "takes all the fun out of it" but hey, its gotta be a fun mod to play with!!

I have deans battery connectors that I have on my mx400 lipoly batteries. Can I use them on my axe electric fly lipoly battery?

You can put a deans connector on it. If your talking about the micro deans connector, They have an adapter to go from mini to micro. Otherwise just remove the old connector and solder on a new one. You can make your own patch cable if you want also if you can't find one or have a lhs close by that sells deans connectors. I did this because some of my batteries have deans on them and others have jst connectors.

I've had my Axe for a couple weeks now, been through a dozen LiPo TP 1320 packs or so, and, luckily, NO CRASHES!!! [8D]

I got her working good with my DX6 radio gear!! [>:]

I have got the hover down pat, but need a good amount of room. If she starts to go in a direction pretty good, then I need a good 5 or 6 feet to get her going back to center.

I've been playing with the main rotor speed at hover and its pretty good now. On the slow side even, possibly. May drop it further to see what it does, BUT my next move now is to adjust the Tail Trim pot on the stock 3-in-1 board.

I was hoping to avoid altering the factory settings but she yaws too much to the left. Its too much effort to keep pressure on right rudder - its keeping me from getting better, so I gotta adjust it.

When I get it dialed in, I'll post up my DX6 settings. I think I'll need to call in an expert to finally verify my rotor speed and collective curves are good.

I've gotten to the point where I can take my hand off the left stick and adjust the rudder trim while in flight as long as its not too far out. Once you get the tail to behave, its much easier to fly around. One less stick to worry about all the time.

UPDATE on the Servo Linkages post I put up earlier:

- With the second set of linkages I bought, I removed the stock ones, set them aside.
- I used a micro drill bit and a hand chuck and increased the size of third hole in on each stock servo to the diameter required to insert the stock linkages and have them articulate smoothly. I want to say 1/16 or 1/32".
- Inserted the new linkages, and adjusted the length to zero out the swashplate.
- Used the aforementioned trick to disable the motors and 'idle up/down' to display assumed zero pitch, and adjust linkages accordingly.
= Success!

I posted in another thread that I picked up a TP1320, TP205 Blancer, and a Electrifly PolyCharge 30$ basic charger, and I'd have to say that, considering that I already went through several sets of main rotor blades, the new battery + reduced servo arm throw = n00b pulling off 5 second bursts of wobbly to stable hover in a /tiny/ room without further damage. (Tiny can be defined as about the same as the 5-6' diameter space before impact with everything)

If anyone's feeling a little on the tinkering side, if you have an hour to spare I highly recommend this mod. Just may take a while to get a level swashplate and zero pitch back is all.

Cheers!

Help! My tail 'twitches' now!

I was afraid of this - I tweak the factory settings, help one problem but cause another! [:@]


I followed the book and made small adjustments. But first, a brief hover to make sure everything was the same as last time. It was. She yaws the left gently but firmly and I must compensate with right stick, and right rudder trim is MAXED out.

Fine. I shut her down and tweaked the bottom pot - and the tail was staying put, but 'twitching'!!

Ok, I tried putting it back. She again yaws left but the tail is still twitching! [:'(]

I tried shutting down, putting the rudder trim back to zero - now she yaws left REALLY hard and is still twitching.

Fine. Shut down again, and tweaked bottom pot again. Tail again stays straight without stick input, but is still twitching!

Fine. Shut down again, and started playing with the gyro gain, middle pot. No effect. I went back and played with different settings - full left and full right - no change in the twitching, although when the setting is max clockwise it twitches even more.

Help! Is my 3-in-1 board bad? It seems to ignore the Gyro Gain pot adjustment...

I also tried re-binding the AR6000 to the DX6 radio. Fine but no change in the 'twitching' problem.

Help! I'm bummed now The only good news is that the left stick is trimmed out fine - it can hover hands off if not for the tail.

Did you try to turn the Gain pot counterclockwise? Mine twitched too after adjusting the trim pot, but when I reduced the gain, it stopped. Some batteries have a very small amount of twitch, but I have just let it go till next battery.

How many of you have had to change the factory settings? This thing is a hand full to try to keep in one spot. I charged the nicad battery and only got about 3 min on it before it went dead.

Yeah that is all you will get withthe stock batt. try a Thunder Power 11.1v 1320mah then you will get about 12-15 minutes [8D]
chaseman81

Markind I had that same problem with hte stock gyro. When you have the gyro and the radio trims in a certain position the tail motor pulses. I'd say to adjust the gyro or the radio trims a little more in one direction or the other. Only do one not both.

RWJ I had to adjust my gyro, (I think everyone does). If you have no idea how to do it, (your not alone, I didn't know how to do it until I tried). Just be gentle and patient, only do small adjustment in either dirction. See how it responds. It might take two charges to get it trimed perfect. The bottom adjustment knob is the tail, middle is left/right yaw, and top is front/back pitch. From howm much I know about this heli I wouldn't touch the top knob unless you have a serious pitch problem.

"Patients is the way to life's vertue."
(If only that was true.)

It's a head locking gyro, the CP does not come with a head lock gyro, just a stability gyro which is MUCH less reliable. The head lock gyro will keep the tail in one spot at all times when there is no input from the radio unlike the standard gyro that wil wander all over the place.

This is the main reason for the head lock gyro upgrade.

Lowering the gain will make the glitch go away. It's called tail wagging. High gain settings will cause the tail to wag.


The Blade CP has a gain pot and a trim pot so the Blade's gyro is much better, but unfortunatle the Blade CP is just not much of a heli.

The Axe is a much better platform to work on.

how much is it and is it easy to install? What is the make and where do you get one?

It's not cheap, the gyro is $120 and the ESC upgrade is $30. Helimax provide a manual for this upgrade.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXVA42

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXKBF4

Many Blade CP Pro owners do this mod as well. The heli will be much more stable and reliable.

My heli is being shipped out with all these items.

I plan to do the install on here, maybe some of you would prefer me to test this out before jumping into it?

How the hell do imort a picture from paint? RWJ I made a picture in paint to show how I have my gyro trimed but I can't open the file. Have been try for 45 minutes and am getting really mad.

from paint or to paint?

From paint, I also saved it to file

I don't know I am lousy at computers I would ask my grandaughter but she isn't here.

I hate technology. I'm 15 and know how to use a computer pretty well but get very frustratedc when I can do something on them once and then try to do the samething again and it doesn't work.

I don't know I am not good with computers I would ask my grandaughter but she isn't here.

Ok, thanks you guys I am encouraged by your words.

Tell me more about those trim pots on the 3-in-1 board. I am ready for more trial-and-error but any direction you guys can give me will help.

For example, I can move the gain pot all the way left and all the way right - it can only turn about 240 degrees. Thus, the halfway setting is at 3 o'clock and the slot is level.

I tried it all the way one and all the way the other way and in the middle - still twitching.

Ok, fine. But is there some combination of the pot settings that I need to look for? I want to eliminate the yaw AND the twitching! Is there a trick?

Also, is this a problem that can be the result of a bad connection (maybe weak solder on the tail motor wires going to the 3-in-1 board?


I am really anxious to get this nailed down! She was actually hovering with 'hands-off' the sticks for a few seconds, but the tail wag makes her crazy pretty quick. Once dialed in, I just KNOW I'll have a really good hover and THEN I can progress to circles!!!

THANKS for the help gang!!

I hate to say it......but I am thinking about the falcon 3d. More research is in order, it just looks too good.

Nick