Top pot is left right bias for the tail. It's so the left/right control feels proportionate on the controller. Middle Pot is for the gyro gain. Bottom Pot is for tail motor. Turning this pot changes when your tail motor comes on with the main blades. Too high and it will be spinning way before the main blades and which will cause it to spin in circles(too much power). Not enough adjustment on the bottom pot will make the tail weak and do the same thing but spin to left(not enough power to tail motor).

Are you tryihng to load the file here?

nothing there to load

this file is in paint or the file is just empty?

empty

How long are you guys letting your Axe rest between flights? I just got my 2nd lipo for mine. I now have a MaxAmps 3s 1100 and a Thunder Power 3s 1320 and the stock 650 NIMH. After running one of the lipos my motor is around 155 degrees. I don't think that this is too hot but am letting it cool for about 10-15 minutes before loading up the next lipo and going at it again. I anyone running 2 1100-1300 lipos back to back? If so have you noticed any ill effects on the motor? Thanks for the help, BT

It depends on how you fly. 155 is hot enough to burn skin, so letting it cool sounds prudent. Back-to-back packs of hard 3d flight sounds like a meltdown in the waiting. But if you fly with a lot of landings and take breaks in the flight, the temp stays much lower, and you can put the next pack in right away. Cold weather also keeps the temp down, so,,,

I have the trim set just right now on it without any changes to the gyro etc. I do not like the way the pitch curve is set up on it now. I want to change it to a smoother curve so as the heli doesn't drop so fast when I ease up on the throttle such as a 0-3-6-8-10 can I do this or am I stuck with the factory setting? I would also have to change the throttle curve.

Hey markind...
The tail on my Axe got really twitchy after I messed around with the settings. It's so annoying!!! No matter where I set the trim pot on the mixer board it still twitches! But I will say this, it keeps my attention focused on the heli. The tail will wag about 15 degrees when Im hovering. I haven't even tried FF (remeber I don't have a sim) and I have yet to even take it outdoors.

A little recommendation to those guys who haven't bought an Axe yet and are considering it. DO NOT MESS WITH THE MIXER BOARD SETTINGS!! Mine didn't twitch until I messed with my mixer board :[

Man you guys, have turned the little $200 Axe Cp into a expensive little bird!
Axe CP $199.00-TP 1320 $45 Needed Badly total $244.00 Plus s&h
240 Gyro $119.00 TowerHobbies
3 Hs55 $42.00 TowerHobbies
DMX 6 $169.00 no servos Heliproz

Now our little two hundred dollar RTF chopper. Is now a $574.00 Axe CP? You could a had a V-8!
For example...

T-Rex 450X Kit Complete Combo. Motor,ESC,Radio Battery,Gyro $544.99
Fantastic Complete Micro Electric Heli combo! More than $160 in savings below our all ready low low prices!!!! NOW INCLUDES THE 2100 LogicTech.... It comes with the awesome Spectrum DX6 radio/rcvr combo and the great flying T-Rex 450X. Included electronics are (3) Hitec HS-55 servos, (1) Hitec HS-50 tail servo, LogicTech 2100 Heading Hold gyro, Align 430LG brushless motor, and Align 25 Amp ESC with BEC. You also get a YunTong 20C 2100mah LiPo battery and YT Balancer/Charger with all connectors, Mavrikk Micro pitch gauge, Mavrikk Ball Link pliers and the outstanding Mavrikk Ball Link Sizing tool. This is a complete RTB (ready to build) combo with all the parts and tools to get you in the air quickly.

I think Before I change my Axe around I would sell it for 150.00 or keep it for good indoor practice, nice heli right out of the box but you do need the lipo batteries the stock batt. is nothing.

Chaseman81

I beleive this is incorrect. According to the manual, the top adjustment is left/right bias. It controls how fast the heli rotates left or right with a given amount of stick input. This is used so it doesn't rotate left faster than right or vice versa.

The middle is gyro gain. Used to eliminate tail wag. If it wags, reduce the setting by turning counterclockwise.

The bottom is trim. If the heli still rotates left or right with the trim setting on the transmitter all the way over, here is where additional adjustments can be made.

There is no adjustment for pitch on the 3in1. Those are made at the transmitter, or through adjusting the lengths of the connecting rods.

10-15 minutes flights, don't run your lipo out all in one flight.

All you need is the axe and nothing else.

Everything else is personal preference.

With the T-Rex, all that stuff is required and it's more like $1000 for a decent set up.

LOL, then there is nothing for you to import

Thanks, waiting 10-15 minutes is what I have been doing. I am not running my lipo totally out before stopping. I know that it is a no-no to overdischarge any type of battery especially a lipo. Thanks for help. I will just keep doing what I have been.

No problem, I have been flyig my Blade CP to keep me occupied intul my Axe shows up.

I though about posting a video here, but not sure if it's worth while since this is basically an Axe thread.

Yes, but I would like to get it running smooth with the stock 3-in-1 first, if possible.

Ok gang I went through 2 and a half LiPo packs doing hovers, landings, adjustments, repeat.

Here is where I am:

0. Still have an annoying tail wag. It sounds like chittering squirrels mixed with the normal sounds.

1. Tail and radio are totally dialed. I can hover hands-free for several seconds!!!

2. There is absolutely no change in bahavior no matter how I set the Gain middle pot.


To get to this point, I decided to ignore the gain/wag variable for now. I then focussed on getting the tail to stay without stick input during hover. I brought up the throttle curve and brought down the pitch curve. No effect really on the tail really.

I then went through trial-and-error and now the tail does not drift at all, and there is a only small amount of radio trim needed to center the yaw. Note that this means the bottom pot T/R Trim is set almost all the way to maximum - almost full clockwise at a 6 o'clock setting.

If I set less T/R Trim, it takes more radio rudder right trim to compensate. This seems perfect. It takes a digital -10 clicks of DX6 right rudder to keep the nose straight (the DX6 max trim is + / - 40 clicks)

Ok great!! I went through half a pack just hovering around, having fun, trying to ignore the annoying tail oscillation. Grr...

I then went through a full pack just playing with the Gyro Gain middle pot - NO EFFECT!!! I got bored and thinking that the pot itself was defective, just turned it full back and forth a bunch of times, hoping to fix it. Nope. No setting change on the middle pot changes the behavior in the slightest.

OK. FINE. Now help me with my options please:

1. Call Tower and get a replacment 3-in-1 board. Boring - down time sucks.

2. Go for the HH Gyro option.

If I go with a Gyro, can I keep the 3-in-1 board? Even if the Gyro Gain pot is not working?

Or, should I just blow it off and "GO SEPARATES"? Then I'll chuck the 3-in-1 but I'll need Gyro, ESC, and what else??

T H A N K S guys for the help - I am now closer than before to getting this bird tamed!

When I get mine set up I will have better information for you on this.

Setting gain for hover is fine, but once you get into FF you will need to lower the gain setting.

If your 3-1 board is defective call tower.

All right guys it is more likely I'm wrong than right. But when I adjusted the middle pot I didn't have to fight the right stick to stop my Axe from pitching to the right. Amd the bottom one controls when the tail engages and the tail rotor's speed at certain throttle speeds. I don't know about the top pot, I was told by someone in a post about the gyro that the top one controled the foward/bachward pitch. I never touched this one so I'm not sure, just trying to help.

This should help...

For the tail rotor trim there is a typo, it should say "if the tail drifts to one side or the other", not the helicopter itself.

Only adjust the lower two pots, do not adjust the top pot.

Yep, its looking more like a defective 3-in-1 board.

I'm calling Tower Tech Support tomorrow am for a debugging session.

Meanwhile, at home I can analyze the problem more closely.

Since the main problem has boiled down to "no response from Gyro Gain Pot adjustments",

I can power up the system and see what my DMM says around that pot. If nothing changes, it could be a bad pot. I have a parts place nearby that probably has that pot in stock, and could replace it myself, in theory. For now I'll collect the data and see what Tower says.

I hope they don't give me flak about replacing the thing or I'll P.O.'d!! [:@]

Markind talk to tower I had a problem with the Rotofly and they took it right back. I don't know how they will plan to help your problem, you might have to send the board back, or the whole heli. If you have not tampered with the 3 in 1 they will probley fix it for free. Heli-max is a devision of great planes. Great Planes owns Tower. Look at all the addresses, they are all in the same very general area. And when you call tower they might transfer you to great planes.

TEX, why do you suggest not to run the lipo out in one flight? Seems fine to me.

Just easier on the Lipo pack...