Hi there,
I got the Axe two days ago and I already messed it up today.
The small ball (joint?) of [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNWH9&P=M]this thing[/link] (Main Blade Grips?) is broken, and they two are not straight any more. I guess [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRWW0&P=M]this thing[/link] (Feathering Spindle?) is bent inside. One JCS blade is dented. Other things seem fine.
My questions:
1) Are the two things above the only things that I have to order or anything else?
2) How can I remove/snap back on the balls/joints? Is there any tool?
3) My Axe was "light on skids" then lifted up a little and started drifting left away and away. Why?
Please help!
Thanks a lot!

Hi, ironbadge-- I work in Rockville, how about that?

Anyway, blades, feathering shaft, and grips are pretty common replacement items on the Axe. You might want to get a couple flybars as well.

You can get ball link pliers to take the links off the balls, but you have to be very careful using them on plastic balls to keep them from gouging the balls.

Drifting to the left is normal with a single rotor, clockwise heli-- the tail thrusts to the right to counter the mains' torque, but in the process pushes the heli to the left. In hover you'll be canted slightly to the right as a result.

If you want to get the parts faster, give Hobby City in Burtonsville a call-- I know they sell Axe parts, but whether they have everything you need or not, couldn't tell. Hobby Town in Glen Burnie carries helis, too, but I don't remember seeing a lot of Axe parts there.

You can straighten the feathering spindle by hand ( find the high side and tap gently with light hammer etc to straighten it - I do it a lot). I replace the main grips the most on my heli. Flybars can be straightened by hand also. I would suggest, based on what I replace on mine, extra grips (4 or 5 packs), Main gear, an extra of everything for the rotor head assembly. Yep, it will drift left as Osterizer explains. Good luck and good flying.

Hi all,
Just back from work. Thanks a lot for fast response.
Osterizer,
Did you mean I could drop by sometimes so you can help look at and trim my choppy?
I study and work in Montgomery College, Rockville campus.
You did not give me the stores' phone number. I also need some tools though.
I guess I'll order the parts from TH. I'll also try to straighten the feathering spindle as K94max said.
The JCS blades are kinda heavy, but I don't like the stock symmetrical blades either. Can we use Blade CP blades? Hobby Works carries lots of Blade CP stuff. By the way, they don't know what the Axe CP is when i asked the other day. Unbelievable.
Drifting to the left: what to do???

It'll drift left naturally. It's a bigger issue while it's sliding around on the floor and less so while it's hovering. Just give it a little right roll input (right stick to the right) to compensate.

Hi all, I just bought an AXE CP for my first heli I have been flying on the sim for awhile and I think I am doing ok with it. One problem I just ran into though...and I also posted this in the battery fourm but I thought I might get a quick answer on this thread since you all have already made the upgrade.
I just bought the Greatplanes Lipo that was recomended to go with the AXE-CP GPMP0709 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXNYJ1) and the Electrifly balancer but none of the adapters that came with the balancer fit the battery. It says the 3S is for 11.1 packs which is what I have but the plug is too small to fit the battery.... what am I missing here?

Edit to say I think I figured it out....the 3S adapter is the wrong one...its the one for the thunder....guy I bought the balancer from at the hobby shop said he had gave the one that came with it away and bought the replacements but it looks like he bought the wrong set....

Interesting thought, but if I had tried that I would have been one of the birds and she'd be throwing the stones! At any rate, the heli sat in the hangar while I helped with the painting.

Oh Well, the things we must endure to enjoy "flying the tail". [X(]

Ok first ill introduce myself i am Caphead!
And what i gathered from reading some 50 odd pages of info oin this thread is that my new futaba Faasst 2.4 system will not work with this crappy 3 in 1 board the axe comes with.. I have accepted that fact. But what i would like to have is a list of what i need for the fast system to work. Am i correct to think i will need two new esc's as well as a hh gyro? and if so any suggestions on esc's that are relativly cheap that will work? im not a budget hunter by all means but this is only a axe.. I appreciate all the info you can provide to help me out here. I might decide go the the way of drive belt mod if it seems to be a better solution.


thanks again
Cappy

How long did it take to get the gift cert after you mailed in the stuff?

It took less time than I expected. I bought the Axe on 7/18, and then waited awhile before mailing the rebate form; at least a couple of weeks. I don't remember the exact amount of time, but the certificate arrived around the first of this month, so it was probably no more than 4 weeks and I'm thinking less than that. Considering the form said to allow 4-6 weeks for processing, I'd say it was quick. They must have sent it quick so I'd spend it quick, so I put it to good use - took everyone's advice here and ordered RealFlight G3.5 w/free Add-On volume 5. The certificate dropped it by $50, I had a promotional ad number for an additional $30 off, free standard shipping, and 3-easy pay for a total of $119.98/3=$39.99 a month for 3 months. Pretty sweet deal and well worth the full cost I'm sure. Don't you just love a bargain?!

Right stick Pitch Axis problem:
My problem was a BAD pot in the Transmitter's right stick. My local Hobby People replace the entire transmitter no hassles and I've been happy ever since!

Great 2nd helicopter!!

[sm=thumbup.gif]

HeliPals,

I have a question about the canopy decals. You know, the ones that are thinner than a human hair. I think I read a tip somewhere that putting rubbing alcohol on the canopy and applying the decal while it's still wet will give you some time to get the decal in place and the bubbles worked out, and then the alcohol will dry and the decal will stick. Is that the case for the self-adhesive decals used on the Axe? If not, any tips on easy application methods?

Thx.

Yep, clean the canopy with dishsoap or the like and dry really well. Then, sray window cleaner on the side you are working on and put the decal on then slide it where you want it, smooth out the bubbles and let it dry.
Your on the right track but you can use just about anything that will stay wet for a little while and then dry on it's own. I think it is the alcohol in the window cleaner that causes it to dry. you can use a napkin or paper towel to blot it dry also.
The trick is to get a liquid that will give you enough time to "work" the decal into position. Then you can squeegee the bubbles and wrinkles out of the decal before it dries.
Makes it a lot easier than putting them on dry. Don't be afraid to soak the canopy while working it. I had to do it several times as I tried to remove the decal from the sheet.
Hope this helps and good luck on the decal placement.

Thanks for the tips. I hate decals but they're better than paint, so I'll take them, but these were the thinnest and stickiest I've ever seen. Add to that the static factor and they were all over my hands before I could get them on. Plus they're so thin I tore one of them just peeling it off the sheet. I bought a different color canopy and want to do better putting the decals on this one.

yep, did that with my first canopy also (tearing one). PITA for sure. Second one I used the above technique and it came out much better. But the sheet and static is still a PITA. [:@]

Ok, tracking question. I'm seeing improvement in my skills with the sticks in keeping this baby a little more stable, but I've noticed a blade tracking issue tonight. I put it on the bench and got eye level with the 'disk' and put a different color tape on one of the rotors. Now I can tell (duh) which one is doing what. The one with the black tape is tracking higher than the red. So what makes that happen and how do I fix it? Hmm...maybe that one's actually in the manual, but it's more fun (and more educational) to ask here.

adjust the link to the blade, pull deoen the blades that tracks higher

Yep, I'm back after delving into the madness of total brushless Axe CP conversion hell!

I just my first good hover with Park 370 brushless main motor, and Ammo 3850 brushless tail motor.

Together with two ESCs, a Gy240, and DX7 radio gear, we are in no-man's land deep but I follow in the footsteps of a few others so I don't feel totally alone.

My Axe is now a smooth running machine, finally! No more brushes to wear out! Good riddance! WOOT!

Just need to find more stick time now... That's always been the big problem!! [sm=bananahead.gif]

Welcome back, Markind! I've been wondering what happened to you. When I started reading this forum I was getting a lot of good information from you, and getting a kick out of all the mod$ you were doing to your Axe. Then you disappeared. Was beginning to wonder if you'd taken a blade strike to the face! [sm=omg_smile.gif]

I have a feeling that when he gets his T-Rex in the air we're gonna see even less of him on here..........

Thanks guys! I'll be back more as I get my Bell-Hiller mod installed, too.

What is the current favorite? Last I checked, there were basically two different approaches, using slightly different parts.

Is it still getting good reviews to use Blade CP parts for this head mod? [sm=confused.gif]

Airtronics RD8000 Setup w/AXE CP---

Has anyone tried setting up their RD8000 with the stock AXE CP??? I got tired of the feel of the stock radio and wanted to set it up to fly on my RD8000. I selected the correct swash and even experimented with changing the servo leads around on the receiver. I get reversed collective no matter what I select in my radio. In fact, the only thing that seems to work correctly is the tail. I would appreciate anyone's input on this particular setup. Can it even work??? Thanks.

I have but a query...? Can we use the eflite charger for the suggested lipo from great planes (electrfly 910mah)....? I would like to use the eflite 800mah 11.1 v but apparently you only get 8 mins run time. So if I understand correctly you would get about 9 mins with the 910mah right,...? Ive never asked this question before.

Or what about 10.8v @ 1000mah...about 10 mins run time...?

I didn't have time to read through all the replies, but since I have one, I might as well ask. Can anyone fly theirs inverted yet?

I'm just learning how to fly it without the training gear. 5 flights so far w/o training gear. Getting higher every flight.

Has anyone gone brushless yet?