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All the posts I've read sum up that the Axe's tail won't track straight into a loop with the stock 3-1 board. Most people are using the Axe as learning tool. My take is that you'll probably "graduate" to a different, maybe more capable heli when it comes to time to learn inverted flight, 3D etc.

I'm in the process of upgrading to brushless. I wish I could give more feedback to you about going brushless. Keep up the good work without training gear. Are you flying in all perspectives: tail out, 90 degree, 45 degree angles and pirouettes?

I have but a query...? Can we use the eflite charger for the suggested lipo from great planes (electrfly 910mah)....? I would like to use the eflite 800mah 11.1 v but apparently you only get 8 mins run time. So if I understand correctly you would get about 9 mins with the 910mah right,...? Ive never asked this question before.

Or what about 10.8v @ 1000mah...about 10 mins run time...?

douglas4-
The eflite charger should work just fine for your electrifly 3S910mAh battery pack. The eflite 3S800mAh is just a little on the "light side" for operating the Axe. Do you happen to know if the eflite battery is a 10C or a 15C pack? Your estimates are probably close on the hover time. The 10.8V - 1000mAh is a NimH pack? If so, it will be substancially heavier than a comparable Li-Poly and probably won't work as well as you would probably like.

douglas4-
You may have to check the connector on the eflite charger. The Electrifly 910mAh packs use Dean's Ultra Plugs. I like the Ultra Plugs. It would be an easy swap on the charger.

Been out of the loop for a bit..House remodel. Anyway, anyone have any pics of different canopies. The stock one is not so cool. I'm thinking huey style etc. If anyone has any links or photos to get me on the right track, it would be great

Thanks

If any of you are good at setting up swash plates heres a question.

I was checking the old throws on my axe cp that the original stock radio set up would produce in full cyclic (any direction) so that i could emulate them with my 9C and I came up with 13 degrees measured with a pitch gauge on the main, flybar level and looking at the swash itself? Oh and this was in idle up mode with the throttle/pitch stick at center (if it even matters). I thought the general rule of thought for swash tilt was like 6 to 8 degrees. Is this because it has only a hiller head, and at the lower setting would no be as responsive? Seems a bit extreem to me.

Nope, i'm just trying to get it in a steady hover right now. Sofar, I can get it up to about waiste level, and can usually hold it there for a few minutes.

TO: Missle

Heres the link to the company who makes custom r/c packs. They are actually lighter than the stock batterys. Its the 1000 mah 10.8v block packs Im gonna buy. Im sending them one of my stock packs that is a dunger to use for making my custom packs. http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/items.asp?db=31

Hi douglas4-
I checked out the link you provided. Be cautious of the cells making up these packs. They have a discharge rate of 3 amps (3C in this case). The stock Axe set up (brushed motors) will draw approximately 7 to 8 amps - well over twice the amperage these batteries are designed for. I don't recommend you experimenting with http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/items.asp?db=31, could be a bad scenario... Sorry for the bad news. [&o]

I have what I think is a pretty basic question, but is still unknown by this relative newbie. In allthe different R/C helis out there of different shapes and sizes, I've noticed something that seems to not be unique to any particular type - the location of the flybar. Why are some above and some below the main rotors? Is it similar to the difference between a wing-over plane and a wing under one?

Thanks.

Hi HelisRule- Yes and no. Stability and instability explains how the linkages are connected to the flybar. Some helis are set up for stability such as F3C manuevers, some are set up for instability such as 3D and also somewhere inbetween. Hiller is somewhat stable, bell-hiller is less stable and will respond faster to input. There is a column called FredFiles in the Sept/Oct '07 issue of MHT (Model Heli Technique Magazine) that discusses flybar paddles. It also refers to the different types of rotor head geometries. Maybe someone else could chime in with a better explanation. I'm a beginner myself. Ask lots of questions and read, read, read. Hope this helps...

What is "a little more than twice as long?" These stock ones are good for about 5 minutes tops.

Read This link below , May help a tad as how the real ones work. I never liked details and more like a laymans term type guy. Basically it stabilizes the entire rotor system whenever you make any type of input into the sytem. (Keeps it as level as possible) Since cyclic and collective is a constant application-there you have it.

http://www.aircav.com/huey/stabiliz.html

Thaks for the education guys. I figured it must have been a stability thing, but didn't realize the different geometries involved.

Heres my little beast. Only 3 days old! You may or may not notice the main rotor gear exposed more. Seems to have been rubbing on the fuselage, so I got the dremel out and rounded off some area to keep it from happening again. This is actually the purple one. The flash made it look blue

Cute little bugger... ain't he?

just got my new axe cp i really like it never flown a heli really before except for a blade cx2 which is not real hard to fly this is a whole new ballgame just wondering if there is anything to do to make it not so responsive for now already need new blade grips just a few more questions - flat or sym. blades? - has anyone had to adj. the settings on the board before flight?(don't know exactly if i am trimming it out properly) - and one more thing what exactly does making it run in seperations do? thanks for any insight anyone might be able to share i think that it will be great fun once i learn a little more


PS - one more is a heading hold gyro worth it?

Well I have two more "battery packs" done on this thing with a total of five and no damage yet. If you think this looks squirly, wait til you fly it-in the wind.

landonsmith
Get flat bottom plastic blades. Add wheel collars to the flybar out by the paddles.

landonsmith-
I agree with mmatheny's suggestions. Also consider moving the servo/swashplate rods into the center holes on all three servo arms. Try one change at a time. Don't do all changes at once. Judge what combination works best for you.

Don't worry about going separates yet. Going separates will help you control your heli better; however, they won't make it easier to learn. Practice, practice, pratice. [8D]

thanx fellas i need all the help i can get! how about flat bttm blade cp blades faster head speed maybe?

landonsmith-
Higher head speed does increase stability. Flat-bottom airfoils create more lift. I don't have any experience with them. I think you should give 'em a try if you are up to the task! See the quote below:

[:@] Word of Warning!!!!!! [X(]

ON AXE CP ...major desing weakness...Be carefull with screw that holds the Tail Shaft(HMXE9560). If you use a screw that is even the slights bit longer than the one that comes there or tighten too much, you may short the wires to the tail motor thereby frying the e-board! .

This happened to me[:@][&:] ...i feel like such a careless fool...I have never fried anything in all of my years with RC. ...well at least the smoke was cool....

Gotta love the smell of fried electronics in the morning.

Its still a great little heli. Now I have to find a replacement e-board (anyone have an extra one cheap?) or do something else...

I have heard of a few other people with this same issue. Turns out the screw size needed is a 2x3mm. You probably substituted a 2x4mm! OUCH! [:@] As a matter of fact, Heli-Max does not make this as a buyable part in their hardware packs. [>:] Therefore, us "Axe Operators" must make our own by grinding down a longer screw. [&:] Heli-Max Customer Support will probably send you a new 3 in 1 board as long as your Axe is within warrantee. Excellent service and a class company (should be for what they charge for parts)! Let us know what they say...