axe cp thread
11-01-2007 | 07:26 PM
#1626
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From: Maple Valley,
WA
RE: axe cp thread
I'm using a Common Sense RC 1250 LiPo and an EFlite 3 cell balance charger.
[link=http://www.commonsenserc.com/product_info.php?cPath=37_31&products_id=45]Common Sense RC Battery[/link]
This battery seems to work well. The LHS told me that they (Common Sense RC) are better to deal with than EFlite, and the same capacity battery is cheaper, and works about the same.
I can tell you that my motor heats up long before the battery loses power. Does anyone else have that problem with the standard brushed motor and LiPo's? It seems that I lose head speed, but the battery is cool to the touch, and measures close to 11 volts, but the motor is hot to the touch....I thought I saw a thread somewhere here that talked about venting the motor better?
OK...found it!
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5548099/anchors_5548099/mpage_1/key_Heat%252CSink/anchor/tm.htm#5548099]Got LiPo thread[/link]
[link=http://www.commonsenserc.com/product_info.php?cPath=37_31&products_id=45]Common Sense RC Battery[/link]
This battery seems to work well. The LHS told me that they (Common Sense RC) are better to deal with than EFlite, and the same capacity battery is cheaper, and works about the same.
I can tell you that my motor heats up long before the battery loses power. Does anyone else have that problem with the standard brushed motor and LiPo's? It seems that I lose head speed, but the battery is cool to the touch, and measures close to 11 volts, but the motor is hot to the touch....I thought I saw a thread somewhere here that talked about venting the motor better?
OK...found it!
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5548099/anchors_5548099/mpage_1/key_Heat%252CSink/anchor/tm.htm#5548099]Got LiPo thread[/link]
11-03-2007 | 08:25 AM
#1627
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From: stockbridge, GA
RE: axe cp thread
Has anyone tried a Transmitter Tray for those nervous fingers. I used one many moons ago with an old Revolution gas bird. Think I will build a new one.
Cool here in Georgia
Cool here in Georgia
11-03-2007 | 04:39 PM
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From: Winslow,
ME
RE: axe cp thread
ORIGINAL: themartaman
Has anyone tried a Transmitter Tray for those nervous fingers. I used one many moons ago with an old Revolution gas bird. Think I will build a new one.
Cool here in Georgia
Has anyone tried a Transmitter Tray for those nervous fingers. I used one many moons ago with an old Revolution gas bird. Think I will build a new one.
Cool here in Georgia
11-03-2007 | 05:57 PM
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From: Winslow,
ME
RE: axe cp thread
Thought so. I have an American R/C Mantis that I bought back in the 70's and only partially completed. I keep thinking I want to complete it, and I know the stock parts are no longer available, but I would think there are enough parts out there for different helis that something would fit it, maybe even improve it. I've read that it wasn't the best machine out there, but I think I recall reading that it was an improved version of the Revolution. Is that correct? If nothing else, I want to complete it just to say I did. 
11-04-2007 | 08:12 AM
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From: stockbridge, GA
RE: axe cp thread
Not sure about the Mantis. That was my only attempt back then with a heli. Fixed wing I have no problem flying. Last week we rode down to my old instructors place near Andersonville, Ga. His name is Mac Hodges. You may have heard of him. Has a hobby shop on his dad's old farm. Full size grass runway and plenty of room to fly rc. They have an all electric event there in July called SEFF. Mac flies his B29 at numerous events. Not electric. Has 20 foot wingspan. Videos are on youtube. Saw the Axe CP and talked my wife into it. Could not arrange a larger model. Think I have my 9C programmed to fly it. Will know later today maybe. Also looking at the Spektrum module for 9C. Thought about getting one of their transmitters but I have 50 mhz module for 9C and several receivers. I am in Stockbridge just south of Atlanta. Retired and broke.
11-04-2007 | 11:11 AM
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From: Southwick, MA
RE: axe cp thread
I'm thinking the same thing now, a TX tray would steady those "nervous-twitches."
Rather than the latter of pressing it against my hips, clenching on to it with my cold-clammy hands, thumbs & fore-fingers dimpled with the TX post's marks from squeezing them too tight, sweat dripping onto my glasses from my forehead as I fly, (running thru my plan B: how I'm gonna crash, where I'm gonna crash, what I'm gonna break when I crash, and can I fix it in a timely manner so I can practice crashing again).
Rick
Rather than the latter of pressing it against my hips, clenching on to it with my cold-clammy hands, thumbs & fore-fingers dimpled with the TX post's marks from squeezing them too tight, sweat dripping onto my glasses from my forehead as I fly, (running thru my plan B: how I'm gonna crash, where I'm gonna crash, what I'm gonna break when I crash, and can I fix it in a timely manner so I can practice crashing again).
Rick
11-04-2007 | 12:23 PM
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From: sudburyOntario, CANADA
RE: axe cp thread
Note to all Helimax is releasing the Axe CP-L with Lipos next month. Deffinatley gonna buy that one. Not sure if it comes with brushless though. Web site hasn't been updated with it yet.
11-08-2007 | 07:30 PM
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From: Maple Valley,
WA
RE: axe cp thread
I agree....I got the Common Sense RC battery for $27, and it lasts a good long time, and the heli flys better with it than the stock NiMH.
When HeliMax comes out with a AXE Belt CP-L, THEN maybe.....
When HeliMax comes out with a AXE Belt CP-L, THEN maybe.....
11-09-2007 | 02:43 PM
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From: Rigby,
ID
RE: axe cp thread
Wooo Hoooo.
Total newb here. The reason for my excitement... After 3 months of reading thousands of posts and the ever shrinking pocketbook for spare parts and all the, I finally succeed in my first 3 second, albeit awkward, controlled hover.
Followed immediately by my own rendition of the world famous chicken dance. And no broken parts. I did notice however that I have a severe out of balance vibration, very noticeable at eye level.
I have to say thanks to all that have posted here, without whom I would have axed, my CP a long time ago.
Total newb here. The reason for my excitement... After 3 months of reading thousands of posts and the ever shrinking pocketbook for spare parts and all the, I finally succeed in my first 3 second, albeit awkward, controlled hover.
Followed immediately by my own rendition of the world famous chicken dance. And no broken parts. I did notice however that I have a severe out of balance vibration, very noticeable at eye level.I have to say thanks to all that have posted here, without whom I would have axed, my CP a long time ago.
11-09-2007 | 03:01 PM
#1640
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From: Maple Valley,
WA
RE: axe cp thread
Well, I just read through the user manual, and it makes no mention of the "suggested" C value, but given the motor, and it's limits, I'd say 1250 mAH 10C should work just fine!
From experience, it does. The motor does get hot, but nothing that can't be helped by the "heat sink" mod.
You can hear the head speed decrease when the charge starts getting low, so as soon as I hear that, I bring her down, let her cool off, and then re-charge.
If anyone else can think of why this battery is not good, let us all know!
From experience, it does. The motor does get hot, but nothing that can't be helped by the "heat sink" mod.
You can hear the head speed decrease when the charge starts getting low, so as soon as I hear that, I bring her down, let her cool off, and then re-charge.
If anyone else can think of why this battery is not good, let us all know!
11-17-2007 | 06:36 AM
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From: Westerville, OH
RE: axe cp thread
Hi all: Just got my first AXE CP and it is an awesome machine. I practiced with the Impala heli on the G2 SIM prior, and am now able to hover it confidently at a variety of heights. Have started to practice nose-ins.
Have about 20 flights on the heli now (took the training wheels off about 5 flights ago), and I notice that when I throttle up, at about 30% stick, the heli shakes violently. This just started to happen suddenly. Have not had any crashes or nicks (touch wood) so far. When I get past to the head-speed close enough for lift off, all seems fine. I checked all the nuts and bolts and it all looks fine. Not quite sure what has caused this, and how to get rid of it. Any help will be great.
Also, what would be a good blade balancer for the AXE CP? The std ones out there have pegs that are too thick for the axe's tiny blade holes.
Have about 20 flights on the heli now (took the training wheels off about 5 flights ago), and I notice that when I throttle up, at about 30% stick, the heli shakes violently. This just started to happen suddenly. Have not had any crashes or nicks (touch wood) so far. When I get past to the head-speed close enough for lift off, all seems fine. I checked all the nuts and bolts and it all looks fine. Not quite sure what has caused this, and how to get rid of it. Any help will be great.
Also, what would be a good blade balancer for the AXE CP? The std ones out there have pegs that are too thick for the axe's tiny blade holes.
11-18-2007 | 06:40 PM
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From: Westerville, OH
RE: axe cp thread
Thanks Hobby Man!!!
You were right on -- The distance of the paddles was OK, but the angle of attack was off - must have bumped it off somehow. Heli is back in trim again.
Appreciate your willingness to share your idea.
You were right on -- The distance of the paddles was OK, but the angle of attack was off - must have bumped it off somehow. Heli is back in trim again.
Appreciate your willingness to share your idea.
11-21-2007 | 06:05 AM
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From: sudburyOntario, CANADA
RE: axe cp thread
This is not in reply to anybody but does anybody know what other heli out there has a 6mm main shaft like the axe cp...? I have an idea I'd like to try. I'd like to transfer the rotorhead from the axe cp to another heli that has a belt driven tail without the need of converting my existing one. any ideas...?
11-27-2007 | 11:49 PM
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From: Columbia,
MD
RE: axe cp thread
ORIGINAL: osterizer
Hi, ironbadge-- I work in Rockville, how about that?
Anyway, blades, feathering shaft, and grips are pretty common replacement items on the Axe. You might want to get a couple flybars as well.
You can get ball link pliers to take the links off the balls, but you have to be very careful using them on plastic balls to keep them from gouging the balls.
Drifting to the left is normal with a single rotor, clockwise heli-- the tail thrusts to the right to counter the mains' torque, but in the process pushes the heli to the left. In hover you'll be canted slightly to the right as a result.
If you want to get the parts faster, give Hobby City in Burtonsville a call-- I know they sell Axe parts, but whether they have everything you need or not, couldn't tell. Hobby Town in Glen Burnie carries helis, too, but I don't remember seeing a lot of Axe parts there.
Hi, ironbadge-- I work in Rockville, how about that?
Anyway, blades, feathering shaft, and grips are pretty common replacement items on the Axe. You might want to get a couple flybars as well.
You can get ball link pliers to take the links off the balls, but you have to be very careful using them on plastic balls to keep them from gouging the balls.
Drifting to the left is normal with a single rotor, clockwise heli-- the tail thrusts to the right to counter the mains' torque, but in the process pushes the heli to the left. In hover you'll be canted slightly to the right as a result.
If you want to get the parts faster, give Hobby City in Burtonsville a call-- I know they sell Axe parts, but whether they have everything you need or not, couldn't tell. Hobby Town in Glen Burnie carries helis, too, but I don't remember seeing a lot of Axe parts there.
ORIGINAL: ironbadge
Hi there,
I got the Axe two days ago and I already messed it up today.
The small ball (joint?) of [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNWH9&P=M]this thing[/link] (Main Blade Grips?) is broken, and they two are not straight any more. I guess [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRWW0&P=M]this thing[/link] (Feathering Spindle?) is bent inside. One JCS blade is dented. Other things seem fine.
My questions:
1) Are the two things above the only things that I have to order or anything else?
2) How can I remove/snap back on the balls/joints? Is there any tool?
3) My Axe was "light on skids" then lifted up a little and started drifting left away and away. Why?
Please help!
Thanks a lot!
Hi there,
I got the Axe two days ago and I already messed it up today.
The small ball (joint?) of [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNWH9&P=M]this thing[/link] (Main Blade Grips?) is broken, and they two are not straight any more. I guess [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRWW0&P=M]this thing[/link] (Feathering Spindle?) is bent inside. One JCS blade is dented. Other things seem fine.
My questions:
1) Are the two things above the only things that I have to order or anything else?
2) How can I remove/snap back on the balls/joints? Is there any tool?
3) My Axe was "light on skids" then lifted up a little and started drifting left away and away. Why?
Please help!
Thanks a lot!
Know this response a few months late.
Hey guys, in Columbia. Bought AXE online and my boss now has one too. Burtonsville has some parts, as of 11/24/07, had to order some BGs, fly bar, etc .... The owner is def willing to help order in anything needed. Side note, Burtonsville carries a good selection of helis. They just dont stock the parts, checked the restock labels. Laurel hobby shop carries a lot of Align, who doesnt, but no AXE CP.
11-29-2007 | 12:47 AM
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From: Westland, MI
RE: axe cp thread
I have aluminum blade grips on my AXE CP. I am new to flying so obviously I have a lot more experience in the maintenence and repairs then I do actually flying. I discovered that one of the bearings in the alum grip is bad and hinders the changing of the pitch blah blah.. ANyway, is there a way to take the bearings from a plastic grip and place into these. Also, what is the best way to get the bearings into this, I got the bearing out somehow, but it is way to hard to get back in. Any suggestions?
11-29-2007 | 03:05 PM
#1647
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From: Coral Gables,
FL
RE: axe cp thread
Morhawk:
to get the bearings out of the plastic blade grips, I use one of those small precision screwdrivers like those you get at RadioShack. I use one that the head of the driver is at most the diameter of the feathering shaft with the handle that is larger than the bearing inner diameter but smaller than the inner diameter of the blade grip.
I take the driver end of the screwdriver and insert it through the bearings, entering on the back side of the blade grip (the side that touches the main rotor head) until the handle part of the screwdriver rests against the bearings. I then begin to press out the bearings.
To insert the bearings I do a similar action but entering from the grip side of the blade grips. I first slide the bearings onto the screwdriver and then I insert and press them (gently) into the blade grip. By having the bearings already on the screwdriver, it makes it easier to manuever the bearings back into place.
I will be doing this tonight (again [
][:@]) so I will take a picture and post so you can see what I am having difficulty describing. but it is pretty easy.
I have only the plastic grips, but I imagine it is similar with the aluminum grips...it may just take a little more effort.
Cheers!
I have added more pics...I hope this helps
to get the bearings out of the plastic blade grips, I use one of those small precision screwdrivers like those you get at RadioShack. I use one that the head of the driver is at most the diameter of the feathering shaft with the handle that is larger than the bearing inner diameter but smaller than the inner diameter of the blade grip.
I take the driver end of the screwdriver and insert it through the bearings, entering on the back side of the blade grip (the side that touches the main rotor head) until the handle part of the screwdriver rests against the bearings. I then begin to press out the bearings.
To insert the bearings I do a similar action but entering from the grip side of the blade grips. I first slide the bearings onto the screwdriver and then I insert and press them (gently) into the blade grip. By having the bearings already on the screwdriver, it makes it easier to manuever the bearings back into place.
I will be doing this tonight (again [
][:@]) so I will take a picture and post so you can see what I am having difficulty describing. but it is pretty easy. I have only the plastic grips, but I imagine it is similar with the aluminum grips...it may just take a little more effort.
Cheers!
I have added more pics...I hope this helps
12-01-2007 | 10:49 AM
#1648
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From: Baja, HUNGARY
RE: axe cp thread
Hello guys!
I installed the AR6000 into a SJM 400 v2
Here are the connections:
1. BAT port - not connected
2. THR - connected to ESC
3. AILE - connected to Right Servo
4. ELE - connected to rear Servo
5. RUD - connected on gyro im using a ESKY Head lock gyro
6. GER - connected to gyros orange cable
7. AUX - connected to Left Servo
But still it isnt working well!
The servos not working well i pull the stick backwork and nothing happens ???[]
I pull it forward its not going forward i cant assemble this with my Dx6 [&o]
CAN ANYONE HELP ME??
I installed the AR6000 into a SJM 400 v2
Here are the connections:
1. BAT port - not connected
2. THR - connected to ESC
3. AILE - connected to Right Servo
4. ELE - connected to rear Servo
5. RUD - connected on gyro im using a ESKY Head lock gyro
6. GER - connected to gyros orange cable
7. AUX - connected to Left Servo
But still it isnt working well!
The servos not working well i pull the stick backwork and nothing happens ???[
]I pull it forward its not going forward i cant assemble this with my Dx6 [&o]
CAN ANYONE HELP ME??
12-01-2007 | 10:59 AM
#1649
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From: Bakersfield,
CA
RE: axe cp thread
ORIGINAL: babuttila
Hello guys!
I installed the AR6000 into a SJM 400 v2
Here are the connections:
1. BAT port - not connected
2. THR - connected to ESC
3. AILE - connected to Right Servo
4. ELE - connected to rear Servo
5. RUD - connected on gyro im using a ESKY Head lock gyro
6. GER - connected to gyros orange cable
7. AUX - connected to Left Servo
But still it isnt working well!
The servos not working well i pull the stick backwork and nothing happens ???[]
I pull it forward its not going forward i cant assemble this with my Dx6 [&o]
CAN ANYONE HELP ME??
Hello guys!
I installed the AR6000 into a SJM 400 v2
Here are the connections:
1. BAT port - not connected
2. THR - connected to ESC
3. AILE - connected to Right Servo
4. ELE - connected to rear Servo
5. RUD - connected on gyro im using a ESKY Head lock gyro
6. GER - connected to gyros orange cable
7. AUX - connected to Left Servo
But still it isnt working well!
The servos not working well i pull the stick backwork and nothing happens ???[
]I pull it forward its not going forward i cant assemble this with my Dx6 [&o]
CAN ANYONE HELP ME??
Good luck and enjoy the new radio!
12-01-2007 | 07:51 PM
#1650
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From: Westland, MI
RE: axe cp thread
ORIGINAL: delvallejr
Morhawk:
to get the bearings out of the plastic blade grips, I use one of those small precision screwdrivers like those you get at RadioShack. I use one that the head of the driver is at most the diameter of the feathering shaft with the handle that is larger than the bearing inner diameter but smaller than the inner diameter of the blade grip.
I take the driver end of the screwdriver and insert it through the bearings, entering on the back side of the blade grip (the side that touches the main rotor head) until the handle part of the screwdriver rests against the bearings. I then begin to press out the bearings.
To insert the bearings I do a similar action but entering from the grip side of the blade grips. I first slide the bearings onto the screwdriver and then I insert and press them (gently) into the blade grip. By having the bearings already on the screwdriver, it makes it easier to manuever the bearings back into place.
I will be doing this tonight (again [][:@]) so I will take a picture and post so you can see what I am having difficulty describing. but it is pretty easy.
I have only the plastic grips, but I imagine it is similar with the aluminum grips...it may just take a little more effort.
Cheers!
I have added more pics...I hope this helps
Morhawk:
to get the bearings out of the plastic blade grips, I use one of those small precision screwdrivers like those you get at RadioShack. I use one that the head of the driver is at most the diameter of the feathering shaft with the handle that is larger than the bearing inner diameter but smaller than the inner diameter of the blade grip.
I take the driver end of the screwdriver and insert it through the bearings, entering on the back side of the blade grip (the side that touches the main rotor head) until the handle part of the screwdriver rests against the bearings. I then begin to press out the bearings.
To insert the bearings I do a similar action but entering from the grip side of the blade grips. I first slide the bearings onto the screwdriver and then I insert and press them (gently) into the blade grip. By having the bearings already on the screwdriver, it makes it easier to manuever the bearings back into place.
I will be doing this tonight (again [
][:@]) so I will take a picture and post so you can see what I am having difficulty describing. but it is pretty easy. I have only the plastic grips, but I imagine it is similar with the aluminum grips...it may just take a little more effort.
Cheers!
I have added more pics...I hope this helps
