aeromechanic

My Feedback: (1)

Great Idea! I bought one of this cases new at Home Depot for 20 something bucks for my CX2. They have them by the tool storage Dept. I think I'll re- assign it to the Quark!

aeromechanic

Simages

Are any of you flying the Quark with a Futaba radio? I'm losing RPM at the very top of my throttle and can't see what I'm missing...... it's definately in the 9C because I can fire up the SRB radio and all is well.....

fiddlesticks1

Sounds like you have a throttle curve programmed into your radio. Make sure that all of your curves are liner when you fly the quark with that radio.

Simages

Thanks for the reply......... man I didn't see this one! Checked again Throttle curve good and verified no mix expo..... however; discovered that my 3 position switch C actually did change the RPM i.e governor (on the ACRO/GLID it's Idle-Down and Heli is Governor)..... didn't think past 4 channels until I started flipping switches, guess the Rx has a lot more going on!

fiddlesticks1

OH good, I am Glad you figured it out. Quarks don’t like to be programmed in any way so I figured it mush be something going on with your radio.

Fly Safe!

Greg Gomes
MRC/Hirobo

cgage2

Getting ready to buy a srb Quark. Has anyone used YRBUY and was that a good place to purchase from? If not, who has the best price and is reliable? Thanks
The ideas is that if you can fly the SRB then you can fly a B400. Correct? I hope so. That's why I'm buying it.

phillipmorris

Wish I found YRBUY earlier could have saved money, did purchase parts there and are very fast delivery, and also have the better prices todate, more blades on the way, only lose them flying outdoors, usually fly too long and it goes sideways into something, but its a tuff bird absolutely no damages other than the foam like blades, easily replaced...

I'm at the same learning gate as you, many after lengthy flying claim upgrading to other helis is easier, I have yet to verify as only had mine about 2 weeks and its flying super, my other fixed pitch HBFP gets zero hovering time, huge difference out of the box performance, shouldn't have any problem with the Quark, its as good as they say it is and more !!!...Good Luck...BEST ..<>..

FR4-Pilot

Newbie here. It's Friday, I just got my Quark this past Monday. Moving up from the Blade mCX, which I've been flying since last Christmas. Flew the SRB twice outside, broke blades both times. Flew it inside today, broke more blades. Laminated a new set and was able to take off, hover and land about 10 times! (in the living room) Suddenly, my living room is much smaller - can't really do anything but hover, land and hit the lamp!. Still need to put the stickers on it, but I like it a lot. I've noticed that mine spins (rudder) a lot, even with the trim in the middle. I adjusted the pot on the receiver and that seemed to help a bit, but it still does it, just not right away (similar to another post I read here). Turning the heli off then back on seems to help, but it eventually reverts back to spinning. Anyway, I've got lots to learn. Excellent forum!

Dave ESPI

Fr4 check to make sure your tail rotor is not pressed on too tight. if the tail is binding, it will cause it to lag and can actualy make the tail motor work too hard and will burn up the motor and eat gears. The tail shaft mesh should be snug, but not so tight that it binds as this can cause you to spin. Check settings and re center all controls before your next flight. Its a great heli, It really should not have any issues like this at all out of the box.

Welcome to "enjoying" your first heli

FR4-Pilot

Dave,

Thanks for the tip. I did check the tail fin & gears and everything seems to be okay. The more I fly, the more I see what's going on: When the heli is first powered up the rudder trim needs to be in the middle - as the manual states. As I fly (actually, hover in the living room) over a few minutes, I keep having to add more and more right rudder trim, eventually until it's pegged as far as it will go. At this point, if I land, turn off the heli, turn it back on and try to fly I have excessive right rudder and thus must return the trim to the middle, where the cycle starts all over again. I might try the factory reset or tweaking the gyro, but I would like a little more confidence in it's handling (and my ability to handle it) before doing this though. Regardless, it's awesome!

I had great success today - took it outside this morning did okay except for when it hit the brick wall of my house due to an unexpected gust (and my inexperience). It fell behind the bushes and I dreaded what I would find - a single scratch on the canopy! I had lightly laminated the blades (regular wide clear tape, not the reinforced super-duper packaging tape) - they survived! This thing is really built well, no doubt. The rest of the day is spent inside hovering and playing with that rudder ... Lots of take offs and landings (really clears the dust off of everything in the room). That faint but sometimes not so faint chopper sound is really cool.

It's like trying to control a pendulum suspended from about 200 feet in the air - lots of swaying back and forth to keep track of and attempt to correct. I like it, but man is it nerve racking - I think I actually stop breathing while it's in the air!

-John

Dave ESPI

FR4 after a few more flights, the nervousness goes away and you jjust will start throwing it around as if it was nothing.

Keep at it also small gradual stick inputs are better than fast.

FR4-Pilot

Well, spent Sat nite and into Sunday morning (3:30am) on the ClearView simulator (getting tired of replacing blades). After about 10 straight hours of flying all different types of FP helis I now clearly see the difference between the coax models and the FP models. The good news is I can now crash any FP heli just as good as I crash my Quark! (kidding).

Wondering - is there a similar "step" in handling/complexity/response when going from an FP to a CP?

Anyway, I decided that buying a sim would probably be a smart thing to do at this point ...

-John

Dave ESPI

FR4 that is one of the best things you can do. Sim while not exactly like the real thing, is the closest you will get to having a very inexpensive experience with learning, and a lot of fun while doing it!

I learned the hardway, and eventualy decided to get a sim, and for it Im a much better pilot all around and on days when its too crappy to do anything outside, I can sit here and fly to my hearts content

Also now available : BROTHERHOOD OF THE QUARK shirts !

http://shop.cafepress.com/design/33658574

FR4-Pilot

Forgive me for suggesting/asking this - I know most of you who know what you're doing usually want to do the exact opposite ...

I'm contemplating reducing the responsiveness (cyclic and rudder speed rate) of the Quark temporarily, while I learn to fly a FP, by (1) adjusting the RUD ATT (Rudder rate adjustment volume) pot and (2) moving the balls on both servos to the inner hole instead of the outer hole of the respective servo horns.

I haven't done this yet, but I'm trying to duplicate what I was able to do in the simulator (reducing the cyclic gain and rudder gain) for the model helicopters. I found that by doing this in the simulator I was actually able to control some of the ones that were simply impossible (for me, anyway).

From what I read in the manual, the RUD ATT sounds similar to what the simulator calls rudder gain. There is no adjustment for cyclic on the receiver, but I see that if I move the balls in on the servo horn then the movement/throw of the push rods will be a little less, similar to reducing the gain in the simulator.

I think. (?)

-John

Dave ESPI

FR4 . I dont know of any sims that have a QUARK in them..... what are you talking about ?

LOL.

FR4-Pilot

Dave - You're right, there is no Quark in the sim I'm using. I'm referring to the parameters (per model) that ClearView lets you modify (if you desire to). Things like weight, max rotor rpm, tail rotor sensitivity, cyclic sensitivity, rotor inertia, etc. I just noticed (in the sim) by turning the sensitivity down (tail rotor and cyclic) many of the (included) helicopters become easier to fly as the slightest stick movements no longer send the heli off into the wall. The Blade mCX transmitter has a similar mode you can put it in where the controls are dulled down a bit so you (as a beginner) have a little extra time to process what that last stick movement did so you can correct before loosing total control.

FR4-Pilot

Yep - moving the balls in definitely dulled the cyclic down (now I'm not crashing into the lamp, table, wife, etc.). Still haven't tried the tail rotor adjustment yet - will soon. I'll be returning the settings to normal shortly - gotta get better at turning smoothly first ...

-John

FR4-Pilot

Well, put the servo balls back - too dull, even for me. Now I'm outside practicing my nose-in hovers (remember to breathe!). It's a bit twichy outside - I wonder if there is interference on my 72.55Mhz channel? Hovering over grass definitely reduces the ground effect, a bit.

This thing rocks! Gonna try the advanced settings per the manual very soon ...

-John

CostaRica1

Hey guys....Any battery with a little more power? Not just more amps, I mean more power for lifting a small camera (16g)...thanks.

FR4-Pilot

Can you increase the pitch of the blades? This should create more lifting power. But, in doing so, the motor will have to work harder and will drain a given battery sooner, so you'll probably also have to increase the amperage capacity if you don't want shortened flight times.

But, with the motor working harder, the ESC will be running hotter as well - don't want to burn that out! And, the RPM indicator LED on the receiver will be out of whack if you pitch the blades more.

All you can really do with a battery is increase the voltage (# of cells in series - not an option here) or increase it's current capacity (# of cells or cell groups in parallel). Since P (power)=I*V, increasing either one results in increased power.

-John

CostaRica1

Ok, Thanks anyway....I think that the stock batt will do fine lifting 16 g....One more thing about the laminating process....Is it possible only to laminate the edges of the blade?

Dave ESPI

costa yes, you can just laminate them, but you are not really gaining anything.

Better to do teh area near the blade grips as that is where most the stress is.

CostaRica1

I love the Quark, my only little complaint is that I feel it a little underpowered....

Dave ESPI

Costa, it has enough power. Anymore and you would run the risk of possibly trashing blades with torque snap from rapid changes in RPS that the foam could not hold up to in a rapin increase "lift" scenario.

Or thats atleast how I can see it as not being a stronger motor. I feel it is ballanced quite nicely

CostaRica1

I guess you're right......I was flying outside today and man this helis is really fast...