Cajuncharley

My Feedback: (2)

I am building a Hangar 9 Edge 540 and plan to power it with a Saito 150 (which I already own). I would like to install the servos in the rear of the fuselage, and am wondering if it will make the plane tail heavy. I kow the Saito is lighter than most gas engines some guys are using, and would not like to have to put a bunch of nose weight to balance it. I am an old retired pattern flyer of reasonable skills, but am not into 3D stuff. Any tips or advice would be appreciated.
Cajuncharley

nedyob

My Feedback: (67)

Hello Cajuncharley,
I recently bought a H9 Edge 540 built with a OS 1.60. The elevator servos were already installed in the servo tray area. I seen previous thread where other Hanger 9 Edge owners didn't like the dual elevator push rods and advised to put the elevator servo's in the tail. Mine has two separate Hitec 645 servo's for each elevator with carbon fiber push rods. The previous owner advised that my Edge 540 flew great with this set up. I haven't totally got it set up radio wise yet, but I am planning to get it set up in a few weeks.
I think most of the guys install the servo's in the tail for better 3D maneuverability where the CG is more aft for a more tail heavy plane.
I'm kinda interested in what you Hanger 9 Edge 540 owners have to say also.
NEDYOB

Ronbo

My Feedback: (12)

i put my elevator servos in the tail, as i didnt like the carbon push rod setup i tried. i have a YS 140 in nose, and i even added wieght to tail to bring CG back. plane took it well. but check your CG anyway and fly it first. then move it back.

aerobats like edge, sukhoi, extra etc seem to be able to take aft CG quite well.

fwiw

Cajuncharley

My Feedback: (2)

I'll be using a Saito 1.50 and yours is the YS 1.40, and these engines weigh within an ounce of each other. (I know the YS is stronger but should be close for the type of flying I will be doing). What size and type of servos did you use, and how far from the rudder post were they mounted? How much did the plane wiegh (dry)? Hope you don't mind the questions.
Thanks,
Cajuncharley

Ronbo

My Feedback: (12)

i put JR 4721 on ailerons , 120 ounces torque. i put a 645mg Hitec on rudder pull pull basically where they say to put the servos in fuse. 5625 digital hitecs on elevator and a 525 hitec on throttle.

plane wieghed 12.5 lbs no fuel on a digital fish scale. wieght will vary from kit to kit. usually 11.5 to 12.5lbs from what ive seen.

DGrant

My Feedback: (4)

I have a Moki 1.80 in mine and modified it for rear servo install. The CG came out right on the money basically with that engine and 2 hitec 605's in the tail.

My guess is it would come out tail heavy with the Saito. I'll post a pic of the basic finished install here. I have several more step by step if you might be further interested...I'd be happy to post for you.

RJConnet

I am also flying my H9 Edge with a Moki 1.8 and the tail mounted servos. No added weight was required. Your Saito is somewhat lighter than the Moki with a Bisson muffler (Approx. 49 Oz.). My suggestion would be to mount your engine and all equipment except the elevator servo (servos), just tape or tack the tail feathers in place. Then put the plane on the balancer and decide where you want the servos. Do not permanently install the vertical and horizontal Stabs. till you decide as it is much simpler to make the modifications for tail mounted servos without the horizontal Stab. in place. Good luck with your Edge, I hope it flys as well as mine.
[8D][8D]. Oh yes, my rudder servo is pull-pull in the stock location.

RJ

bentskids

I would like to see the instructions for rear servos.
Thanks

gclassen

I too have just purchased a H9 Edge 540. I am thinking of using a Saito 180 or a OS 160 2 stroke. Which do you guys think would be better. I am leaning toward the Saito. I will be using Hitec 605BB servos for the control surfaces and a Hitec 422 for the throttle. Using a Klett 1/4 scale tail wheel assembly in place of the stock one.
Cajuncharley let me know how your servo mounting worked out. I am also thinking of doing the same thing.

Cajuncharley

My Feedback: (2)

I have already cut out openings for the 2 elevator servos at the rear of the fuselage. The openings are right below the leading edge of the elevator, right behind the last former. I epoxied 1/8th ply inside the fuse sides to attach servos securely. I am using two Futaba 9202 servos, and will probably have to add a small amount of nose weight. This remains to be determined. Right now I am slowed down with back surgery and can work only a hour or so a day, but hope the project will be completed the first week or two of February. I will post final outcome, weight, etc.
Thanks to all who replied and furnished their helpful comments. I haven't installed the engine yet, and am wondering about the best method to attach the cowl.
Cajuncharley

Andy Rigby

My Feedback: (1)

These planes fly well if they are set up correctly. If you take your time then you'll enjoy the plane, if not you'll be taking home a bag of bits.I had one (sold it didn't crash it) with a moki 180 (superb engine) and an internal tuned pipe inside the fus. Also had 2 JR DS 8411 on the elevators. I recovered mine because i didn't like the colours. I covered it in profilm and airbrushed my design onto that. Pictures are below.

hope this helps,

Andy
www.3drc.info

DGrant

My Feedback: (4)

Nice plane Andy...


The first thing I did was to make the filler plate that I glued into the rear servo area. To get the pattern close, I used the side of a freshly sharpened pencil. I taped a piece of paper to the area, then shaded the original cut-out. That left me with a reasonable impression/pattern to start from. Once I had that done, I just cut out a few pieces of light-ply, and sanded them for a near perfect fit in that cut out. Then I used med. CA to glue the plates in, so as not to disturb the existing covering. I then took the iron, and ironed the covering down to the area I just worked on, so when it comes time to cut the hole, I didn't have to worry about the covering lifting or anything like that. Don't cut the servo hole just yet though...

Then I planned servo placement. That won't vary to much regardless of servo, I just wanted a comfy geometry for the linkage. Once I was satisfied with the servo/linkage, and the overall placement, I cut the hole for servo....making it a comfy fit, and again checking linkage/geometry, and all that....

I'm going to put this in a few posts....my comp is not too stable these days....I dont want to lose this info before I'm done....

DGrant

My Feedback: (4)

These pics show the approx placement, as well as the hole(s) after they were were cut and sanded out.......remember.....there are 2 sides to do...I recomend doing both sides at one time, and use a ruler, slid through the fusalage as a gauge for fine tuning the placement...much like lining up a stab to make sure its horizontal and true...

DGrant

My Feedback: (4)

Then what I did....and I think this step is very important.....is to install some servo bearing blocks.. I used spruce I think... or any kind of hardwood, about 5/16" or so... enough for that servo mounting screw to bite into. Make them long enough to capture fully, so as to "pinch" the hole mounting into existing, as well as the plate that you added. I used 5min epoxy here, as once this step is done... I really don't think the servos are going anywhere. Again,,,this in my opinion is the most important step... your whole servo install is only as strong as the weakest link, and this shores the whole thing up....

DGrant

My Feedback: (4)

This pic shows the small "stand-off" that was needed for the linkage/servo to be canted to reach a very near 90'degree to hinge line placement... I just cut the covering enough to CA a small piece of lite-ply to shim it out a bit, then just ironed the covering back... With the exception of this cut, and making the servo hole itself... none of the covering was cut, or comprimised in any way.... leaving it looking like a factory install. (Don't know why I liked that...it takes a very good factory to outbuild me... LOL )... Anyways..... here is is...

DGrant

My Feedback: (4)

And again......here's the final product. To wire it ..I used a tube installed in the fusalage to capture the wiring....or you can make one out of paper/card stock...or Don's hobby has them(For $10 you can get a lifetime supply of the stuff)... or if you have any other way to secure the servo wires in the fuse I'm sure you can figure it out.

I used a servo-reversing Y-harness from Horizon hobby... come to find out later..I could have just programmed it in my radio(I pretty much knew it then too)...anyways..... A 9CAP is what I use... and it will work a few different ways with that transmitter, depending on the reciever, will tell you which way you might want to go with it. I've done 3 of these so far, and each one a bit different in the way it was totally done.. but these pics are prototype of my first one(the one I own), and I may upgrade my programming and ditch the Y-harness, as I do see slight advantages to programming it in.............so........that does it for DGrant's H9 elev servo install......stay tuned for more episodes.... LOL... I do hope this does help though.... I'm going to the shop now.... I have urge to build for some reason....

mAvRiCk-inactive

I'd love to have one, but it was crazy when my friend was flying his. MY other friend had a deadstick with a Sig 321 EX (cap) and he glanced over for a second and his disappeared in the fog. They didn't even hear a crack. Looked through the woods and found it in a tree. 1 nice JR servo is still up there in the tree

Cajuncharley

My Feedback: (2)

Many thanks for great info on installing servos at rear of fuse. I am now ready to install the cowl. Engine is installed (Saito 1.50) and am making cut-outs to fit engine. Is the factory recommendation satisfactory? Seems like in the past installations, the screws wear and waddle out holes in the fiberglas cowl. Any suggestions?
Thanks again,
Cajuncharley

DGrant

My Feedback: (4)

I use the Dubro brand of "pan-head" screws,with allen heads. The head on these are just a tad bigger then regular screws, and with the allen-heads, they can be made to be very secure, as well as very trick looking. They add a nice touch. I've not had any problems with holes wallowing out lately, just keep a check on them when you do your preflight. As long as you keep them tight, the holes pretty much stand no chance of wallowing out at all. Good luck Charlie.

Cajuncharley

My Feedback: (2)

I am installing the Saito 1.50, and after setting the engine up, the landing gear stops the cowl from going back over the nose section far enough. The instructions show a template to cut out bottom of the cowl for a MDS 1.48 engine, but no template for the Saito. Appears the same template applies. Did any of you find that was the case?
Thanks,
Cajuncharley

DGrant

My Feedback: (4)

The template should be same for landing gear cut-out...however there is no template obviously for the engine. Are you sure it's the landing gear that's obstructing the cowling? If it is....dont worry about shaving it just a bit to fit in that area. There's really a 2-fold reason for that size cut-out also, the first being the LG clearance, and the next, and very important is being the cooling exit. It creates venting for the engine. Make sure you have the engine placed correctly, IE thrust-washer placement from firewall. That measurement will not change no matter what engine you use, but what does change is your placement of the engine to get that correct. I hope Ive writtien this clear engough to not confuse you Charlie. ... Good luck, keep plugging away. Just make your cuts clean, and I wouldn't worry about a little to much cut out, it will only let more air in to cool your engine. I use a Dremel drum sander for final adjustment cuts, they come out very nice and custom using that tool.

Shortman

My Feedback: (21)

Dale, how is your Edge 540 coming? You getting it repaired and ready for some flying? I got off my but and renewed my AMA for 2 years, now just need to renew Club membership[8D]

Funtanas56

hsy short man about how much do you spend on getting a H9 edge 540 with a moki 180 and hitec servoes or high tork set up im looking to to that plane because i have trusted H9 for so long will the skill level needed to fly the edge be much different then the funtana what do you think. Im flying a funtanas with a saito 72 right now!! thx

Cajuncharley

My Feedback: (2)

I finally finished the model today and found I need to add 5 ounces of nose weight to the front firewall. I was afraid this might happen as I put two servos for the elevators at the rear of the fuselage. The total weight will be 13 lbs 3 ounces. The weather here in south Louisiana has been rain, rain and more rain. It will be several many days before I can test fly it. It will take several days for our flying field to dry out, and wet weather is forecast for the next week. I run 30% nitro in the Saito 1.50, and we will see if it provides adequate power.
Cajuncharley

nedyob

My Feedback: (67)

Hay Cajuncharley,
Well rain is better then snow, we got at least 2 feet in the last two weeks. I just got done setting up all my servo throws tonight and will ballance mine out hopefully by this weekend.
I wont be able to fly mine until the end of April.

NEDYOB