I added a triangular fillet around the base of the sub fin. Helps with the side loads from the tail skid.

I was thinking about that.

Great minds think alike!

I didn't post anything yesterday because I got frustrated with myself and decided to take a break. First, the holes I drilled in the firewall for the motor mount were crooked, and I don't know how that happened. I drew the center lines on the firewall, good. Used the template that came with my motor mount to mark drill locations, good. Drill the holes, install blind nuts, install motor mount and crap. It's crooked. Instead of a nice inverted mount, it's off to the left a bit. Well, I tell myself, as long as the mount is center it won't be too bad. So I start playing around with the engine and cowl, and notice that the drive shaft sticks out of the cowl more than I like, douple crap, and I decide to call it a night. Today I figure that I can get a different engine mount and start over if Ilike, so I go ahead and mount the engine and cowl. Guess what? I not as unhappy with it as I though I would be. Tell what you think.

I found a great video on fuel tank setup.

http://youtu.be/-0RJs6Rq1C0

I'm currently installing servos and pushrods. Rudder and elevator are done. BUSA recommends placing them in front of the wing bolt down block for balance, but I figure with a big honking engine up front, radio battery, ignition battery and ignition module to place in the nose of the airplane, it wouldn't hurt to move the servos a couple of inches to the rear. I was having a real problem finding a way to work the throttle until I notice a machined throttle arm extension that came with the engine. Problem solved, but I will have to angle the pushrod to get the best movement on the throttle. Also, I'm going to have to pick up a ball link for the throttle pushrod.

I'd go with the motor mounted as you have it. Nice work! I don't know about you but I detest radio installation.

Sorry for the lack of updates over the last few days. Most likely, my building will be slower over the next few days as well. One of my businesses is a car wash. Friday night, some yahoo crashed through a row of trees and into the back of my car wash, destroying a machine that cost well over 100K. I'm working with the insurance company now to get it sorted out, but I've been busy and kinda messed up by it.

We'll be here waiting.

Just remember, its a machine and it can be replaced. At least the clown isn't going after you in court for putting a carwash in his way.

Oh incase you need some inspiration, I just found this

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...rticle_id=1466

Video of my E-III here.

http://rcuvideos.s3.amazonaws.com/rc...m_solinski.wmv

Thanks to RC Ken for covering the Warbirds over Tulsa back in September.

Well, I got back to doing a bit of building today. I was getting frustrated with the radio installation. The hole I drilled for the throttle pushrod did not line up so good. I'll mark a better spot and drill again after the engine mount is removed. So, I decided to start on the "scale" landing gear. Next time I follow BUSA's instructions to a tee. They recommend 3/32 welding rod for this job. Well, I just picked up some 3/32 wire at the LHS and thought it would be just as good. I have a decent vise and some visegrips to work with, that's all. Let me tell you it took a lot of time and a severely pinched palm to get two pieces of wire cut and bent to match as closely as the two pictured. Time to pick up that welding rod. I also glued some 1/8 plywood over the firewall and F1 so that I'll have a good solid place to mount the ignition module.

Major Tom, thanks for posting the video of your great looking E III.

I did get a bit of work done on the E III this weekend. Mostly it was things that take time, but don't look like much happened. I glassed the inside of the cowl, installed and glassed the tail skid, added Major Tom's fillets on the lower vertical fin, bent the wire for the semi-scale landing gear, and, by the way, I painted the wheels. I had to do one "fun" thing. Painted them half black and half white. Jasta 9 colors. The fuselage is ready for finish sanding and covering. I found some wire at Michael's for the flying wires. Finishing up the wing next.

Pics don't seem to want to upload tonight. I'll try to get them up tomorrow.

Pics that I couldn't post last night.

Wow, now it's time for final sanding and finishing/covering. Won't be much to look at while sanding, but I am going to glass the forward part of the fuselage/cockpit area. I think that will make the best base for painting. I mentioned that I picked up some wire for rigging wires on the wings. The E III had a bunch of cables to deal with the wing warping, but I'm only going with 4 on the top and 4 on the bottom. Should look nice that way. There are no provisions on the plans for attaching these, and not wanting to drill into a spar, I decided to add some 1/4 balsa sticks for wire attachment. Next post, I should be glassing the fuse. Oh, I'll have to build a test mount for my engine and I may get some pics of that up.

I built an engine test stand. Don't look too closely. No two wood screws are the same. That jar of leftover hardware from old household projects came in handy. I hope to get the engine out to the field next week and start her up. I'll post a video when that happens.

Still alive guys. I got one more sanding to do with 320 grit and then I'm done with that and time to start covering. I'm going to fiberglass the forward part to the fuselage, the part that would have been metal on the real thing. So, I'm going to do some experimenting before I start on the E III to get the transition from glass to solartex just right. I hope to get the engine on the test stand to the field by this weekend. By the way, that's not my flight muffler in the pic. I've got one coming from JTec.

I mentioned my disaster at the car wash a few posts ago. I've settled with the insurance company, so tomorrow we start removing the old machine and preparing for a new one. Fun never ends.

A thought on your covering. I used solartex "linen" and it is virtually opaque. That translucent clear doped linen look comes from using solartex "antique" which, I beleieve, is just the raw fabric. Looks much more realistic on the E-III frame.

I thought I'd jump in since Im at the point of covering mine with antique Solartex. I don't want to use decals so Im experimenting with latex paint sealed with Minwax polyurethane satin. I will leave fuel on it to see if there will be softening of the poly. How are you going to add the details. Im using a Magnum 91 FS engine. For the cowl I used the hammered spray paint for plastic and Im happy with the look. I'll post some picture tomarrow. By the way the Solartex antique is transluscent you'll see any marks on the balsa.

I had a few minutes so here are the pics

Paint experiment ended up with a minimally tacky finish after leaving fuel on it for several hours. I don't want to take the chance so I guess I will use Klas Kote.

I finished my experiment with using glass cloth and solartex. Result below. Don't look too closely at the fiberglassing job. I didn't put any primer on before I painted, so I can still see the weave in the glass cloth. I was more interested in a clean edge between the glassed area and the solartex area. I am pretty happy with the result. So I will fiberglass the forward part of the fuse, this is eveything in front of the cockpit. The rest of the plane will be covered with solartex. I hope to get the engine to the field some time this weekend. All sanding and filling is done. Time to glass and cover.

Major Tom, I am using the linen solartex. I've had it for a month or so.

Flyer, I will be painting details. No decals. I'm not sure what I will be using. Most likely, I will experiment a bit before I make a decision. I've got a gas engine, so I don't have to worry about the type of paint so much. I will be using the "hammered" rustoleum also. Your's looks pretty good. Did you find it better to use one heavy coat with that paint? My experience is that multiple coats does away with the "hammered" look.

I used three coats of the hammered paint. I also read in another forum that they used Rustolem paint with an automotive clear coat with good results. Im going to experiment with that. I recently sold a Zenoah 23 that had sitting around now I wish I had it back. I sold it before I got this kit. Your glass job looks great its hard to get a good line but you did it.

My kind of hobbyist! Frugal is my first name! Enjoying your build!

Engine is on the test stand and ready to go. I'm charging the ignition battery now and will take it to the field tomorrow. Video to come.

I did manage to get out to the field with my engine. I flooded it the first time I tried to start it, so I talked to some of the guys for a bit, and when I got back to the enigne, it started right up. I also posed a pic of our field, just to make you northern guys jealous. Ok, RC Universe does not support the MP4 video file I tried to upload. Use the youtube link instead.


http://youtu.be/JkLtZNZ4YJc

NOT FAIR!!!!!! We're having an ice storm tonight in central NY. I sneek out when its 40 degrees and fly electric just to keep my sanity. Glad your engine worked well should be a good choice. Painting my details with Rustoleum. Forum on RC universe said to let it cure for 3 weeks and it won't fail. It covered very well. I'll be able to let it cure for 5 months darn it.