It's at this point when I looked at the wing and went oh sh%$#@$!. Like I said earlier, this wing is built almost identical to a 4 star wing, and I've built many 4 stars and on a 4 star you cut the servo opening on the top of the wing as it is a low wing plane. The mid star opening should be cut on the bottom of the wing, as you can see (for this step at least), my brain was in 4 star build mode and I cut the servo opening on the top instead of the bottom. The fix is easy and will in no way effect the strength of the wing. I glued scrap pieces of 1/16 balsa to the underside of the sheeting, I then cut pieces of sheeting to replace what was cut out, flipped the wing over and cut the new servo opening. The repaired section is an inch and a half wide, after the wing is joined to the fuse later on in construction, it will receive a fiberglass/epoxy wing wrap using 1 inch wide glass tape, so most of the repair will be hidden under the fiberglass tape, after filling and final sanding, you'll never know its there.

Next is the aileron torque rods. I checked against the plans and assembled the torque rods with the pre-slotted basswood blocks. I use as little glue as possible while still ensuring a good bond. Next, the whole assembly is glued to the TE and shaped. Wing construction stops here for now until the fuse is completed up to the point where we can fit the wing to the fuse.

What's happen Doug, you are doing some outstanding work !! I still have alot to learn, but I am getting there, this is going to help me out alot on my mext one that I do !! Hey I am thinking I am just going to stick with the engine that I gave to you !! I started my Sig 4 Star 40 this morning !! I have go to the 27 to get it done and ready for the racing that are club is going to have !! http://spiritsofstl.com/events.htm I am going to try to find somebody to race it for me there! LOL I am not ready for racing yet LOL !! Is there anything that I need to look at close are do with this 4 star 40 in the build process, I have a ARF, and I am doing the wing's this morning !!

Later Have a good one !!

Mark
spiritstlflyer !!

Hello; One little modification that I did on my Mid*star was to put cap strips on the ribs from the spar to the leading edge. I did this on the second one I built (and the third), to make the covering job easier, but I thought it made it fly better then the first one I built without them. You might consider this. Another little thing is the vertical stab really needs some triangle stock to strengthen it. I built it both ways, but prefer it strong. I should go and buy another one of these just to have the kit.

Mark, you'll love the 4 star, I built this one over the winter to race this year, I've never pylon raced so hopefully she'll stay in one piece! Maybe I'll get to turn some laps with you! I covered it to resemble "Rare Bear"

did some work on the fuselage tonight


whoops, no pictures

Lets start with the motor mount, it is a simple process of locating the center and thrust lines from the plans and laying those lines out on the firewall. Next, we determine the spacing of our mounting lugs on the engine, transfer those measurements to the firewall and mark and drill the mounting holes for the mounts. We then drill holes for the blind 6/32 blind nuts and install those on the rear of the firewall, I secured them with slow ca, then we bolt up the mounts and check out fit. You can see in the 2nd pic the hole for the throttle cable

The nosewheel bracket is done the same way as the motor mounts, after the bracket was secure, I drilled the hole for the nosewheel steering cable

Pics of the main landing gear assembly

gluing the fuse doublers to the fuse sides (make sure to build a right and a left!)

The fuse is dry fitted together in this picture. All the fuselage components key together into one another which really aids in building a straight and true aircraft

Wing meet fuselage; fuselage, wing. How do you do

Good-Morning Doug !!

I like your 4 Star 40, the Big Bear Look !! I am all done with my Sig Sr. Falcon, I can't wait to get it out and fly it !! My plane that you got going is looking Outstanding !!


Mark

More fuse work tonight. I went ahead and glued up the fuselage with thick CA along all the seams, I used 30min epoxy for the firewall. I installed the headrest using a die cut gauge included in the kit to make sure it has the proper rearward angle. The pre-shaped fuse stringers were added. Next I installed the main LG mount, again using 30min epoxy and I also glued up the front bottom lite-ply sheeting. 1/2 inch balsa tri-stock was used to reinforce the firewall. As you can see, I had to relieve the tri-stock to clear the blind nuts and the hole for the nose wheel steering. The final picture shows the fuel tank floor glued in place

The following pictures show the process of assembling the front hatch. A 1 inch wide 1/4 thick balsa slab is glued at the firewall, this acts as a hold down for the front of the hatch. Next, a lite-ply tongue is glued to the front of the hatch, this slips under the balsa slab we just glued on. the 1/4 circle hatch mounts are added at the rear of the fuel tank compartment. The hatch is temporarily spot glued to the fuse for shaping

Some more pics of the hatch. I drilled for the mounting holes by transferring measurements from the plans to the plane. 4-40 blind nuts are installed under the 1/4 circle tabs. I countersunk the holes in the hatch so the flat head screws would sit flush with the top of the hatch. The rear of the hatch needed to be trimed and contoured to match the leading edge of the wing.

On it's gear and sittin'pretty!

I've been away from the project for a while, I've been busy getting a new roof put on my house

Anyway, I've been able to mount the wing to the fuselage and fiberglass the center wing joint. I did not take any pics of this process as cafeenman has some great articles on how to accomplish both of these tasks

Here:
http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...ruction/10.htm

And Here:
http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform..._panels/04.htm

Time for some cockpit and canopy work. The cockpit floor is moulded ABS plastic that must be trimmed to fit. We also fit the rear headrest to the cockpit froor and drill for the 1/4 inch dowel that helps keep the canopy assembly in place.

Next we trial fit the canopy to the cockpit floor and trim until we have a good fit.

Mark, do you want a pilot in the cockpit?

I think I will go with just the Smoked Glass look, by just painting the inside of it !! But it does look pretty good when you paint everything inside and have a pilot in there. What do you think?

Thanks

Mark

Well, I've already painted the cockpit floor black. Lets wait until the plane is covered and we can look at it to see if we want to black the canopy out or not. If nothing else, I'll go up to jack in the box and get a antenna ball!

If you paint the canopy black (like I did on mine) make sure you put some vent holes in the back of the canopy (and some matching holes in the former) to let hot air out of the canopy. I didn't and the front of the canopy collapsed inword when the trapped heat inside the canopy softened the plastic on a hot summer day. See the attached picture.

Thanks radioflyer!, that is advise well taken.....I'm now thinking I better put a vent hole in my 4 star

Doug,
you have one clean, fine looking 4 Star 40 !! I took my 4 star out Sat. It did good, ran about 3 tanks thur it !! LOL,LOL

mark