Well then, consider a tapered shim or box, washers under the standoffs is an excellent way to break the engine lugs. That's why I built a box. I know Dave told you different, think about it.

I know exactly what you mean on using washers to obtain the proper thrust angle, not a good idea.
Been there, done that! Hows your project coming?

rv9-a

I took some time to finish off my Extra 200, it's a scratch build I've been working on for a while now. I then started a rebuild of the One Design after a dead stick coupled with pilot error did it in. Oh well live and learn. It's a complete rebuild, no patch work.
I hate to paint and it's going to take some form of motivation to get the Cub finished!!!!
I flew the Extra 2 weeks ago for the first time, it flys great and I'm happy with it, I put 2 gallon of gas through the new ZDZ 80 Super and I'm liking it.

Is this thread still alive? Am starting a build as well.. outstanding info. posted here! Anyone have any new progress reports?

I finally got back to mine , after a delay for cooling off. [] Finished with fitting the wings and struts today. Everything is built and ready for final sanding and installing some gear. Then to the covering. I was able to see the maiden flight of a clipped wing BUSA Super Cub this past weekend, the builder replicated Hazel Sigs cub. He started on the kit last August. It flew great and lit a spark in me to get mine finished Attached are some pictures of his cub and mine as of today.

rv9-a

Both planes looking good! Must admit this kit is a bit intimidating. My stick building skill is beginner at best, not done this complexity before. It'll be a good learning experience. At least if make a mistake can cut more wood and try the step again. Looked for an Adrian Page Super Cub to get warmed up with, but good luck finding any of those. So heck with it we're moving on with BUSA!

Am thinking of starting with laminating the root ribs, bows for rudder and elevator, then proceeding to frame the rudder and stab. Basically start small, then moving on to wings and such. Any disadvantages to doing that? Traveling this week so it'll be next before I actually get wood on the table.

RD,
Sometime early on, you will also need to laminate the wingtip bows. Mine were kind of tricky, due to the die-cut parts not punching out clean. In fact, I had to cut them out, and do quite a bit of trimming to get them cleaned up. The tail outlines were the same way.

I didn't like the way the wingtip bows and curved tail outlines were designed. All three of the laminate layers, (balsa, ply, balsa), were cut to the same pattern for each segment, so a butt joint was how they glued together. If I had it to do over again, I would probably design and cut out a different pattern, so that the laminated pieces of each section ended at a different place, giving a tongue and groove effect for the joints, which would be a whole lot stronger. They could also be thinned down quite a bit this way, resulting in a lighter structure.

I think your plan for getting started is sound. The tail pieces are probably the simplest structures to get started framing. Just make sure you keep everything flat and straight, and get your angles on the sticks as good as you can, to get the best fit. Your glue joints will be stronger that way.

Wishing you the best for your build, and I'm sure you can get lots of help here if you hit a snag.

AmpAce

Thanks for the reply AmpAce, I'll explore options before I start on the wingbows. Will have to do some cutting there as well, mine aren't even outlined on the reverse face, weren't cut very deep. Followed your build thread on the other site.. damn nice.. (followed along with Tony and GR202 as well), man you guys are good..

RD,

I found that I was missing a lot of parts in my kit. If you haven't done it already do an inventory and compare it to the list on page 1 of the manual. This doesn't cover the sticks and some miscellaneous parts so you may want to make a list of what you do have. You may not know what is missing until you need it. To BUSA's credit all the missing parts were quickly replaced.
I agree with Amp Ace you will need the tip bows right away if you start on the wings. The die cut (crushed) parts are not the greatest so be careful in removing them.

rv9-a

Will do, no point making assumptions and then get the short stick or no stick! At this point I've only made a cursory examination for broken items, looks like just a couple pieces need replaced. Also had them weld up my gear.. surprised to see they got that and all the wood into the one box! There must be an art to packing these things, as with most large kits.. once take it out of box, can never get it stacked back in like they had it!

Curiosity question.. did any of you build washout into the wing?

Once built, you can adjust the washout with lift strut adjustment.

Just like full scale. Here is a couple of picks of mine. Just finished covering last Monday, getting ready to paint.


rv9-a

Thanks for the replies. Dang I hate sounding like a rookie.. this is my first big build.. but am I correct in assuming that corrections to the lift strut will also have some impact the positioning of the interplane struts? My initial thought was that maybe washout would be 'built in' per the strut assembly instructions. I'm a long way from that point, but trying to think ahead. When get that on down the road.. ok if I toss this back out and get some specifics on your adjustments and how it worked out? Right now have completed laminating parts for feathers and wing tips, and have started cabin top assembly. Magnets will be here later this week and can then actually start building. FYI, also ran across this build if haven't seen it.. not yet completed though.

[link=http://www.aviationstation.net/supercubpage1.html]Aviation Station[/link]

Nice work rv9-a... man you guys are good.. mine will get there.. just keep eyes on the prize!

RD

Refer to page 24, para. 12 & 13 in your manual. It describes setting up your wing/struts. Since the wing "saddle" is level and you are using the same measurement of +3/4 " at rib W3 fore and aft to get the correct dihedral then your wing will be flat with out washout.
Hope this helps.

rv9-a

Thanks RV,
I've read those pages a number of times since getting the plane.. it seems like the most critical part of the whole assembly, trying to think it through so it won't be so intimidating when get to that point. Washout has always confounded me.. the bulb should be a bit brighter by the time I get to that point. And Thanks for the pics!

RD,

When I first tried to set up the wings and struts I was doing it on a smaller table doing one wing at a time. I had to move the fuse to the right end of the table to set the left wing, then move it to the left end to do the right wing. It was very difficult to get dependable and accurate measurements this way. I finally set it on my work bench and was able to level the fuse and "wing saddle" and do both wings at the same time. I had everything where it needed to be in about two hours.

rv9-a

Thanks RV, I noticed that right off... left then right.. naw.. do both.

Trying to figure out the best way to work with wood that doesn't exactly match the plans. BUSA states that plans can shrink or expand due to humidity and such. One plan is on my bench in garage. The humidity has been very high lately. The plan is as flat as can be made flat. Here's the deal;

You can see in first pic (l-r), its reasonably lined up. The nose is on line and the tube holes line up. 2nd pic shows the tube hole lined up. Pic 3 shows the airfoil with the balsa rib to be laminated to the airfoil, still lined up ok.. but as in pic 4, you can see the notches at the top of the foil don't line up, and the slot for the spar on the balsa doesn't line up. Measuring both left and right side foils show both are off the same amount, 1/16th for the spar, and almost an 8th for the spars on top. Yet when I measure a 1/4" part on the plans, it measures 1/4. So if plans have shrank a bit, wouldn't a reference measurement be off as well?

Or is it just the nature of these larger kits, and one has to be ready to deal with any number of fluctuations between wood and paper? Or.. there's a point where kit precision ends and the builder takes over. Just trying to be careful and precise, lest I get down the road and find a 1/16th off one place leads to 1" off later in the build, or something not lining up later because THAT particular slot had to be exact, when should have worked with the offset from the OTHER slot, if that makes any sense... Any sage advice for making sure everything stays 'straight' when dealing with such?

In other news, magnets came in today, should be able to start forming some pieces up next week. Got invited to a weekend of Striper fishing, it'll be fun.. but man.. I'll be thinking about this build the whole time..in a good way!

RD,

You are going to find that a lot on the plans. I had several calls to BUSA trying to figure things out. If you like I can send you a PM with my phone number and you can call me. The only thing I will say openly in this forum that these were the worst plans I have ever had to deal with.

rv9-a

RV,
Please do.. much appreciated! Thanks!

You will find many deviations along the way, when all else fails apply common sense and everything will be fine.

Well I know now that I'm not crazy or have messed up wood. Thanks Tony!

Regarding the cabin top structure, am guessing most used the included brass tubes? Have considered maybe drilling foils out a bit larger and using carbon instead. Seems that it might get a bit tight running servos and lights thru 1/4". Any thoughts? Has brass looked like going to work ok or did you or would you have done it different?

HM

Tony,
Still looking for tires? You may have already visited this place or aware of it.. I'll toss it out just in case haven't.

[link=http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/lg/tirestubes.html]Aircraft Spruce[/link]

There may be something for ultralights or tailwheels that might work for you.

HM

The 1/4" brass tubes work fine for the wing bolts, the photo shows how I routed my wiring behind the cabin and through the stub wings. I did enlarge the dowels to 3/8" however.