Still working on my SuperCub,its all framed up and am installing nav lights/landing light/beacon.I ended up installing a wing tube for the wings,power is a DLE 55 with a cannister muffler.Has anyone installed the white tail light on the rudder?I'll post some pics later.
Steve

Wow, just spent 4-5 hours reading this thread. I finally got to the end, so now I can jump in here. I'm starting my kit in the morning. I have a ZDZ 80RV that I was going to use and still may do so. I would rather use a DA 50, but will be lucky to afford a G-62 if I buy another engine.
Steve, I was going to suggest the Electro Dynamics light system. I have this system on my Dave Patrick PA-18 and it works great.

Anyway, I'm going to use this thread for info as there is allot of good stuff here.
Thanks, Mark

I have the Electro Dynamics nav light system Mark.The white tail light is an option,so I made a seperate landing light setup that will be flap activated.I'm going to use the E/D landing light as a tail nav light.Mark if you could pickup a good used Z-62 that would be perfect balance wise at least.I'm using a DLE 55 and cannister setup.The cannister tunnel doesn't leave much room for the pilots legs but i'm not to concerned about that.I'll also be adding the Balsa USA floats.
Steve

Here is a photo of my rudder. This is probably how everyone has to do it on the wires. Thinking about selling the DP Cub to fund all the goodies for the BUSA 1/3.

How much Engine weight does it take to ballance the Cub with the Elevator servo mounted in the Tail Like Tony is doing?[sm=confused.gif]
Thanks, Kurt

Nice lighting, Steve! I'm likely leaning that direction myself with my build. Might as well, as I'm still in the bones stages of building. I just began my SuperCub a month and a half ago, and am impressed with the quality of the kit components, wood and plans. It's been a pleasure so far. I'll be using a 3W56B2 with mufflers on mine. I toyed with the canister idea, but cringed at the extra work required to tunnel in two of them. Anyways, the 56 has gobs of power with stack mufflers anyways.

The servo in the tail question..... By all accounts, most 1/3 BUSA Cubs/Supercubs come in a little tail heavy as built per the plans, but choosing engines such as the G-62 or a twin seem to b sufficient to balance it out more or less. Consider this, though. For every ounce of weight added to the tail region of this plane, you have to offest that with roughly 4 ounces in the firewall area. Not a big deal, but something to ponder.

I've sure learned a lot from Tony's and other's build threads on other sights. Can't wait for spring!!

Tom

I am writing on behalf of a friend that doesn't speak english. He has seen this Cirrus Ventures tail wheel you got and wants one for his 1/3 scale Piper Cub. Do you have an email adress or a link to a website for the shop you bought from.
Best regards
Mikael

The tailwheel was always shown in the IMAA publication High Flight, I'm not a current member. Maybe someone out there that iscan tell us it still there and what the most recent contact information is? If not I can dig through the box and find what I have however it will be dated. Maybe some I'll get this thing painted!!!

CIRRUS VENTURES 115 Hunter AVE. Fanwood N.J. 07023-1030 He is in buisness. Lanny Khelsea

Thank you guys. But do you have an emailadress or a link to a website as we are in Denmark, Scandinavia, northern europe.
Best regards
Mikael

They don't appear to have a website. Here is a shot of their ad from High Flight magazine.

Ok and thank you again.
I'll try and explain Palle then he can decide if he wants to try with a snailmail.
Best regards
Mikael

There is an email address shown in the ad, send him an email.

the full size cub fixes adverse yaw by haveing the inside aerilon moving up much more than the outside flat moves down,,,,if you can ,,look at a full size cub and move the stick and measure the up asn down movement.,,,,i have over 100 hours in a clip wing cub and 500 hours in a 450 stearman. the clip wing is probably the most fun airplane ever built.

Just ordered a pair of Bill Hempel's 50% Cub wheels, he has two sizes 8.25" for 1/4" axles, and 10.25" for 3/8" ones. This is news to me hope it helps I know Tony was looking for big wheels for his Super Cub. BIG LACY

im jumping in here way late but im sure there will be many resaders here. the silver is to protect the covering frum being eatin by the sun over the years. it has nuthuing to do with see thru for the cub yellow. i use buterate dope on all my planes. i give all the leading/trailig edges 3 coats antd let it dry. then glob on the dope sew it goes right thru and when it drys the stits is on there forever. as far as the ad on brasing in the tailo parts,,,the originasl j-3s had light formed sheet metal brasses added to reinfoce them. be careful shrinking the stits,,,,it can easily crush your wings. i saw a beautiful waco cabin bipe iat wurtsboro airport that had near total wings repaced because in the [past it had about 100 coats of buterate dope applyed and it warped the traailing and leading edges. to do the tail /fuselage covering,,,fasten by what ever systm you are using along the leading edge of the fin and the center upper longeron and then the lower fuselage longeron. mess around with clothes pins to hold the fabric andsnug it slowely and it will kind of flow into plasde. if you look ast the real thing you will see the neat flow of the fabris transition between the fuse and fin.

i see you guys are usin urethane paints,,,dupont calls it imron,,,YOU MUST USE OUTSIDE AIR 1111111 THIS STUFF WILL KILL YOU,,,,!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!,,,,,VERY DANGEROUSE !!!!!!!!!!!!!

You got that right! My Dad used Dupont Imron on a full size Taylorcraft when it first came out and there weren't a lot of safety regs. on that type of paint back then. It restricted his blood vessels down to the point it gave him heart attack. He was spraying it and was only using a cheap dust mask. I have also had my bad experiences with urethane paint and improper ventilation This type of paint is Very Dangerous!!

Dave

No paint yet? I've read through this whole thread 2-3 times since i started building my GP 40 Cub. You guys are all helping me convert mine to a Super Cub asI build it. Unfortunately, i missed the memo on the clipped wing, and i've already got the full size wing built and joined at the center.

i hope you guys using the randthane/imron paints know that this stuff is deadly if you dont use the PROPER breathing gear. the pros use full masks with pumped in air.,,,years ago a friend painted his pick-up in his 2 car garage. he shot it with imron and died from empasema,,,forgive the spelling,,,,the medical exsam after he died was that it was the imron.,,,,,why paint a cub with this stuff,,,?,,,use buterate dope and it looks just like it is supposed to look.,,,,plus it is easy to repair.,,,,i use the stits on all my planes. jusd give the leading edge etc a double coat of clear and let it dry....use a third wet coat and get the stits on it,,,,gise anopther coat or two and get the top covered the same way.,,,yhre coverring will never come of.....the silver coats are to protect the covering from the sun.

the up airelon on cubs goes up maore then the down one goes,,,this stops adverse yaw,,,it creates drag that yaws the cub into the turn..

With the scale aileron, the leading edge of the aileron drops below the wing and provides additional drag. I would image the throws could be adjusted to eliminate both adverse and proverse yaw if one so desired. I just like to get this one painted!

Hey guys. I just picked up a Balsa USA 1/3rd scale Cub for general flying and possible aero-towing. Some building remains so it will be a little while before it flies. I have a couple of questions I hope you guys can answer for me. Can a DA-100 fit inside the cowl? Also, what is the difference between the Cub & the Super Cub, just the cowl?

Cool thread by the way! Still reading thru it and love it!

Ryan

The difference is more than just the cowl. The Super Cub is wider at the nose, opened up cabin top, has flaps, and the DA-100 won't fit inside the cowl on either one. I'm building the Super Cub and powering it with a ZDZ-80. Should be plenty power for areotow and float flying.

Here is a link to another Super Cub thread you might like to read.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=481234

I've also just picked up a 1/3 scale Super Cub in the bones. Just wish the builder would have built it with the optional flap/aileron scale kit, but he didn't. Not a big deal, though. I'm not going to be competing anywhere with it.

Thinking about what size engine to put in there. I have a DA-50 not doing anything right now. Even thought of a DA-60. I like the idea of a two-cylinder 50-70c engine, but not many "reliable" or well-known types out there. For a twin, probably have to go with a 3W. Not sure about the Rotomotor or any other twin of similar size (the old "get what you pay for" advice rings true here!). Really won't need an engine 'till later this year or a year from now (Toledo 2013!!).

White or Linen Solartex, with marroon or green (standard Super Cub) trim, will be the covering of choice. I've cut lots of pinking tape with a quilter's pinking cutting wheel...works wonders when using a straight-edge. Make any size in any quantity you want. Rustoleum or latex house paint will be the final finish.

Going to pick up the 1/3 Cub/Super Cub gear from Robart at Toledo...in just over 10 days!! The Cub gear fits both perfectly, per my call to them, and they'll have some there.

No hurry on this one, it's going to be my next project for next fall/winter.