Thanks Lamoilleriver, I appreciate it. Have you tried scowering ebay for a kit? I think that the plans are floating around somewhere in these Tri-Star threads. Here are the plans in TIF format: post #14 http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53628

Time to update progress.[8D]

Got the wing finished by making a template to locate the front wing mount hole and leading edge to be removed all per plans. When done with any wing I take the time to balance it at this stage. With an electric motor no chance of the muffler affecting lateral balance. I placed the brass tube in the forward hole and suspended the wing in a string. Placed rulers out at each tip and measured from the ground to the TE. Using pushrod leftovers I found a piece that was just a bit heavy and carefully trimmed it till the tip measurements were equal. The rod was "corkscrewed" into the wing at a point I thought a spar would run. No need to glue it in when the fins are attaches some glue will cover it.

Pete

Fuse assembly in this plane is a challenge. The ply doublers and tri stock was added. Then I inspected and sanded the edge that accepts the sheeting for a tight fit. Other kit's I've buit call for pinning a side to plans or had tabs on formers to keep things lined up. None of that here [&o] The fuse tapers fore and aft while the top is a gentle curve. pinning a side to the table and monting formers at 90deg was my plan but I wound up using epoxy for the F4 and F1 former for strength and to give me some time to be sure the fuse was straight and not twisting. Wood scraps were pinned to the table to keep pressure on the sides at F1 with a weight on F1 and a clamp at F4. the fuse was checked for level side to side the bubble in the level is forward due to the downthrust built in. A thin shim on each side corrected that and it was spot on.

Pete

Next day the fuse was removed, inspected and turned out straight. The instructions mention the tri stock balsa is inconsistent so I sanded the sides that accept the sheeting for a good fit. Trying to keep the fuse straight while adding sheeting and formers is key. Tape the sheeting on and check for squareness as you go. The formers and wing mounts went per plans. Use a piece of paper of the correct depth taped on the fuse to give the mount to it's proper location, added tri stock to the underside of the mount blocks for added strength.

Pete

Looking Good!!!!!! More, more, more!!!!!

LOL, Wait till I post the aft hatch photo's it turned out great. Started on the 5/32 front gear too. Posting is behind the build. This was a more difficult fuse just because you really had to keep checking to make sure it was staying straight as you went along.

There is a Tri Star for sale here on RCU for 115$ I know they are getting harder to find in good condition.

Pete

Updates will be delayed. The Tornado that hit 3-1-7 had us without power for a day and no phone or cable till the 7th. Family is safe, lost a section of fence at the house. Was watching it from my office window, very surreal. 100 yrds closer and I don't think I'd be posting at all.

Keep those who lost family or friends in your prayers.

Pete

Rocketman612 - glad to hear you are OK, was getting ready to pick on you for taking so long. The tornados and ensuing damage and death leaves me without words, everyone down there are in our thoughts and prayers. God Speed

Pete,

I am glad you and your family are ok. Our prayers are for you, and all who are suffering from the recent tragedies. Your build is going great.

John

Thanks fellas that means a lot.

Expect to make some progress over the next few days. I'm on call this weekend so not sure if anything will get done.


Pete

Progress looks great Pete!! Sorry to hear about the tornado. I was in a similar situation once. Not pleasant. It is true what they say about tornados, they sound just like a freight train. BTW, you may want to look at the new spectrum radios by JR & Futuba. The receivers have very very short antennas making them perfect for a pusher plane like the Tri Star. Let me suggest the new AR6100 by JR [link]http://www.horizonhobby.com/Stores/Default.aspx?StoreBrandId=SPM[/link]. It is about the size of a quater & is made for park flyers like the tri star. There is also the Futaba R606FS 6-Channel 2.4GHz FASST Receiver [link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXRMB7&P=V[/link]. Either way they are both great.

Saul

Saul,
Thanks again for the tip. Glad your enjoying the build.

The plans give you the option of a rear hatch. I decided to do the hatch before applying the sheeting and it was easier to handle. Cut out per plans sand it a little smaller so there when both surfaces are covered there is enough clearence. Then used the 3/8 brass tube to "cut" a hole in the aft end. glued a 3/8in dowel in place then sanded flush when dried. Drilled the dowel a little larger than the 6-32 nylon screw. added a hardwood block and hardened balsa sheeting undersurface where the "tab" will press against it. Drilled and taped the block and hardened the threads with CA then taped again. When the sheeting is applied the triangle stosk supports the sides of the hatch.

Pete

As discussed before the 3/32 nosegear is prone to bending due to several factors gauge of wire, the "crimp" placed about 1/4 down to bend the wire and the rearward slant of the wire.

I went with the Dubro 5/32 nosegear. Cut a little off the top to keep the length the same as the stock setup. you will need to get 5/32 nylon holds or straps for the gear as the ones included with the nosegear are too big. I also lowered the position of the mount and used longer socket head servo screws to get more "bite" ,the holes were drilled, screwed then hardened with CA. I felt the gear would be more resistant to the stress of a hard nose landing with these changes. Later we will need to notch the front of the horizontal stab to accomodate the gear pushrod. The nylon arm was cut to fit and drilled for the connector rather than a Z bend. A copy of the plans was used as a template to position the plate on the noseblock. The cutout for clearence of the arm was done when the epoxy dried. Some adjustments to the wire to make it run properly and then the nose was attached using 30 min epoxy.

All of this has to go together with confidence as you will never be able to adjust or tighten anything when the nose goes on

Pete

LOOKS GREAT!!!!!!

Your nose gear looks very sturdy, not spindly like the stock nose gear. On a hard landing, the stock gear bends way back and then springs the nose of the plane back up into the air. If still moving fast enough at that point, you'll be airborne again at a high angle of attack and a low altitude with low airspeed and will need an immediate burst of throttle to avoid a crash. Also, the stock gear bends back a lot running on grass. This causes the nose to be pulled down into a negative AOA that makes lifting off from a grass runway difficult at best. Your nose gear should solve both those problems.

The 5/32 gear and setup is more than double the weight of the stock gear. I stippled the balsa and ply surfaces before using 30 min epoxy to attach the plate to the noseblock. When attaching the nose I carefully applied epoxy around the inner fuse and the block then placed it on checking often to be sure no epoxy crept to the gear. A nice filet of epoxy all around the fuse resulted and it looks sturdy.

Pete

Rocketman612 - Glad to see that you are back to posting again, as always progress to date looks great. The main reason I like to build kits is because you can upgrade what you think would work better, than what may be supplied with the kit. Only have one more thing to say, MORE, MORE,MORE.................

Rocketman612 ---- I'm waiting, I'm waiting!!!!!!!! More - More - MORE!!!!

The build has slowed down some. Had a Carpal Tunnel release on Friday and getting the other hand done in a month[:@] Have been doing some small stuff that isn't stressing my hands.

Was able to get the motor and Phoenix 45 setup. Using a 10x7 zinger wood prop and 3S 11.1v 2070mah Thunderpower battery these are the readings on my whatt meter. at 1/2 and full throttle. At full she turned 7800 rpms. I have a 11x5.5 and 12x6 E props coming that I will cut down to 10in.

The 4S pack and a 6 pitch prop should make this cook at 1/2 throttle. with decent flight times. Will post more data then. Saul tell me what you think?

Pete

Well I'm building again the Carpal tunnel release really made a difference. One down doing the other in May[:@]

The main hatch build was per plans but the tape didn't hold the hatch sides well enough so they were clamped. The front jonts looked weak so I added some tristock.The hatch pin and block were added. The motion of the hatch to get it off and on is to slide it forward on the pin and rotate down on the fuse. To get less binding on the pin I tapered the pin tip's upper and lower edge.


The hatch hook was placed and I decided to use a spring from Lowes rather than a rubber band to hold the hatch. Placed heat shrink tubing on the hook so there is no metal on metal contact/vibration. one end of the spring will be attached to one of the servo mount rails.

Pete

After studying the plans you need to be carful placing the servos as the threaded block to hold the belly pan will be placed here later and can interfear with the servo case.. The rails were fitted and glued. Using a Futaba 3004 for the steering and an HS 225 for the elevator.

Then SANDING AND MORE SANDING [&o]to shape the fuse. Use a copy of the plans to place on the nose with 3M 77 adhesive to help rough shape. This was done from the top and side.

Canopy fitting was a PITA. [X(]Do the main canopy on the hatch first then the front and rear matching the center canopy's height and profile.

LOOKING AWESOME!!! Phenomonal job on the nose!!
Saul

Pete,

WOW!! Looking good.

I haven't had time to start mine, but I could not pass up this Kyosho 40 size Pitt Special 80 bucks

John

John,

Looks pretty nice for 80$ give us a flight report. Hope your putting a 4 stroke in her. A Saito 72 would be sweet.

Pete

Build is ahead of posting. The Belly pan is next. I rough cut it out after marking the outline per instructions then my trusty sander did most of the work. Some fine tuning with a Dremel and sanding block and it's done. The mounting plate for the gear was marked by gluing a copy of the plans to it with 3M adhesive. Holes were drilled before gluing to the pan I thought it would be easier and more accurate and it was. The plate will not fit flush to the pan so the edges were tapered to the pan's contour. Refrence marks were placed on the pan and on the plate to keep things lined up while the 30 min epoxy set. Some epoxy will get into the holes drilled earlier. They are drilled again this time thru the ABS.

Pete