Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

sorry, lost my photos on the first post.

iliketwinkies

a few more pics tonight i used a little wood putty to shape the wings to make i nice fit between the wings and the front piece not all i need is a motor any ones that are cheaper and people like size and brand and i can already see were this would be going no electric!!!!!!!!! nitro only. i also got all my servos and stuff in the only think im having troubble with is the steerable gear but a little sanding and a pilot and a little momkote it will be air borne

sminnucci

Hi all,

Just pulled out my Kougar Kit which was given to me years ago by my uncle who got me into this whole RC thing. He stopped flying and gave me a bunch of RC planes both finished and unfinished.
This kit was most likely bought 15 years ago. It looks like it is all there, but the manual and plans. I called Sig and ordered the manual and found out there are no plans.

Finding this tread is going to prove most helpful. In the box my uncle was kind enough to have purchased all the accessories including mechanical retracts, which I am going to give a try. This will be my first retract experience.

Well here we go, another Kougar in the works.

Scott

HeliTB

I ordered my pilot from NitroPlanes it was $7.50. I will have to trim the width and height to make it fit. No biggy though.

jrcaster

Gray Beard, what plane is that? The tail looks more like the Kavalier, except the Kavalier is a high wing, And the Kougar has a foam core wing instead of built up like that one.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Sorry, my fault, I have so many planes going on at one time I had A minor brain fart. That is the SIG .25 size Kobra I built for A friend for racing, not the Kougar. I finished it two weeks ago and it has been hanging up waiting to be shipped out to him after the Xmas rush. You can build this little plane with a number of changes to look different and he wanted this tail type.

jrcaster

So the Kobra still has a built up wing. The king Kobra used to, back in the early 90's, and as far as I know the Kougar has always had foam cores.

Nice job. The only problem I see is that the garden needs more clutter.

HeliTB

sminucci...I think retracts will make this an awesome looking plane. I still building mine at this time, but without retracts. The only part of the build that require plans is when you glue the two halves together. With that said they're really not conventional plans. The rest of the build is by the manual. Parts got together nicely with a little sanding.

My only issue: SIG could have laser cut the tail pieces for easy removal and building. My Flight instructor/Friend had a band saw, so he cut my peices out.

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

Heli, I agree that Sig should do some upgrading on this kit. Laser cut parts would do very nicely thank you. The formers reallly did not fit so well within the fuse, and the tail feathers would be a good candidate for the laser. I will be at Toledo,( is it really that time to start thinking about Toledo?)
and plan to talk with the guys at Sig about it.
I like the idea of retracts on this plane. The only issue would be the nose gear, which could be a little sticky what with the space needed for either fuel tank or battery pack. The wing would not be such a big deal.
I've seen a lot of great looking Kougars on this thread. Makes mine look kinda plain jane, oops, didn't mean the pun.
The .25 size Kobra looks like another candidate for electric conversion, and Gray Beard's plane looks to be a great flyer. Nice job there.
Nice to see so many Kougar builder/ flyers out there. This has turned into a great thread.
Ah well, I'll have to wait until spring to get mine in the air as we have had an early start on winter, which began on Thanksgiving Day and has snowed almost every day since. Haven't seen it like this in years. Now I'm in the middle of planning my new build/workshop in the basement and have to build new tables and put up shelves, etc and then move everything down, but it will be worth the effort.
One extra thing I did when epoxying the wings together was to create some small holes in the root ends of the wing panels. That way they filled with epoxy and helpd to produce a bond with a little more than just on the surfaces.
Cheers, jollyroger

BillS

Base on the several fuselages that I have repaired the formers need triangle stock to secure them to the fuselage sides.

Bill

HeliTB

I'd like to know how many of you guys fabricated the bottom of the wing where it meets the fusealage. Is it worth the hassle?

DBono99

My Feedback: (1)

Hi All Here is a pic of my converted Sig Kobra..Made It a tail dragger..Power system Hyperion 3025/08-Titan 50 amp ESC Apc e 10x5 or 10x7 Max Amps 3s4000.
With the 10x5 380 watts-10x7 over 400 watts..Both fly the plane great..Proably one my BEST flying E planes..I have only (5)

Dan

PS For some reason I can't upload the pics? When I click on upload images and files, it brings me back to my post??

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

A little more clarification is needed.
One thing I did was to "harden" the wing surface out just past the fuse with West Systems finishing epoxy. After curing, I sanded it down and then covered the wing.
One step I forgot, was to tape some sandpaper to the wing center and sand the wing saddle to fit the wing. Oh well.
The top of the wing is the mating surface to the fuse.
cheers jollyroger

HeliTB

jollyroger and everyone...Where the dowels are in the wing, right below on the wing surface the instructions in the manual show you how to make the wing and fusealage look like one by adding balsa to the bottom front of the wing, then shaping and sanding. The manual says you can skip this, but I'd like to know if anyone thinks it worth the hassle to do it.

I guess I'm to point in my build where I'm getting lazy. Maybe after Christmas I will get motivated.

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

For me it was worth the effort. It does fair in the wing enough to make the appearance better. It just takes a little effort and you may even have to start over. One builder used the foam beds. He simply cut out the section needed and glued them to the wing, then worked them to shape. I suppose a little finishing epoxy w/ filler would smooth out the results. Wished I had kept the foam beds as it would have reduced the work load a little.
cheers and Happy Holidays jollyroger

HeliTB

Don't you think the fuel would breakdown the foam over time? I still have the foam beds, but I'm a little leary of the of using them. I guess I could cover the foam with thin balsa sheets just like the wings.

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

As I mantioned before, coat the foam with finishing epoxy and it should be fuel proof.
cheers jollyroger

HeliTB

Jollyroger...That is what I'm going to do. Save myself some sanding if you know what I mean. Thanks for the great tip. Happy New Year's.

DBono99

My Feedback: (1)

Hi All Here is a pic of my Sig Kobra..Built for E flight.
Dan

HeliTB

DBono99...Man that looks awesome. I've hit a wall with my build. I need to get motivated again. I have all the parts and accessories, just need to get it done.

Hey...Can you post a picture of the bottom where the wing meets the fusealge? Well any bottom picture will do?


Jollyroger...Will I be able to monokote of the foam and epoxy? I plan on using monokote to cover the plane.

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

Dan, Now you've done it! I gotta get one of those now.
Heli: yes, you can monocote over epoxy. It may take a little patience, but it has been done. Faye Stilley(the Monocote Master) printed an article some time ago in one of the R/C magazines, I can't remember which one, but the article concerned covering over fiberglass with monocote. I don't think you would have too much problem. Remember to heat and stretch, heat and stretch.
good luck jollyroger

HeliTB

Thanks for the information. Have a Happy New Year.

jrcaster

I always had problems getting covering to stick to epoxy. It likes to slide. I have read that scrubbing the epoxy down with alcohol helps.

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

That's because mold release is used in the manufacturing process, otherwise the part would not release from the mold. When it comes to parts such as cowls, wheel pants, etc, they should be washed with a mild soapy water solution, which will remove the mold release.
Becaus wax is used in the formulation of many epoxies it will be necessary to remove any residue before painting or covering. Of course a little light sanding with some 220 or 320 grit will help as well.
cheers jollyroger

BROKE STAB

My Feedback: (4)

Guys this a great thread.
My father flew Kougars for as long as I can remember.My brothers and I all learned how
to fly on Kougars.
I just skinned and trimmed my wings last night and today.