How much CA?
#1
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From: Klamath,
CA
Hey all, I am building my Greatplanes Learjet kit (finally). I have used just under 2oz. of thin ca for One complete wing panel and the tail group. Is this far too much?
How much are you guys (and gals) using on average per kit.
Thanks for the help, Marco.
ps. dont forget to subtract what gets stuck between our fingers![sm=71_71.gif]
How much are you guys (and gals) using on average per kit.
Thanks for the help, Marco.
ps. dont forget to subtract what gets stuck between our fingers![sm=71_71.gif]
#3
I rarely use CA.
Most of my wood is held with Titebond (wood glue).
I use Epoxy for the firewall and landing gear mount (high stress areas) but most of the plane is held together with wood glue.
I use CA to strengthen threads I've tapped for nylon bolts and I use thin CA for CA hinges.
That's about it.
Most of my wood is held with Titebond (wood glue).
I use Epoxy for the firewall and landing gear mount (high stress areas) but most of the plane is held together with wood glue.
I use CA to strengthen threads I've tapped for nylon bolts and I use thin CA for CA hinges.
That's about it.
#4
You'll go through thin CA much faster than medium. It just flows so fast. I've used about 3 oz medium so far on my Hots build.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6707116/tm.htm
You'll have to judge for yourself the amount of work compared to your plane. You may have allot more to glue in comparison.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6707116/tm.htm
You'll have to judge for yourself the amount of work compared to your plane. You may have allot more to glue in comparison.
#5

ORIGINAL: kbear
You'll go through thin CA much faster than medium. It just flows so fast. I've used about 3 oz medium so far on my Hots build.
You'll go through thin CA much faster than medium. It just flows so fast. I've used about 3 oz medium so far on my Hots build.
Mark
#6
I've been pretty sloppy with the CA. I also forgot that my daughter has been out in the shop with me making things with the scraps. I will for sure look into the tips on my next build. I know I wasted allot because the tips let it flow to much. Live and learn.
#7
I just use what I feel is appropriate. On my 1/5 Scale Cub Build I have gone almost entirely through a 4 oz bottle of Medium Super Jet. The build is almost done and everything has been glued twice. Once to tack it and one to really bond it together. I wouldn't fear extra weight, there is just not that much glue there.
A sample of my project.....
SunDevilPilot
A sample of my project.....
SunDevilPilot
#8

My Feedback: (108)
You may want to switch to a medium CA. Thin CA should really only be used on wood joints that have no gap on them. A medium CA will help in filling those gaps. A medium or thick CA will also give you a few seconds of adjustment time if your parts need to be adjusted, where as thin CA is instant. Good Luck, Dave
#9
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From: Klamath,
CA
I think that thin ca is the best choice (for me) for wing ribs and the like. The instant set of thin ca on the light balsa to balsa assemblies makes for a short process. I talked with a friend that has built many models over the years and was told that Two to Three 2oz. bottles is normal on an average size kit. What he stressed was ""use what it takes to make a good glue joint"
It is my understanding that much of the glue weight evaporates upon curing.
Besides more weight="bigger engine and go faster to keep it in the air"
Marco.
It is my understanding that much of the glue weight evaporates upon curing.
Besides more weight="bigger engine and go faster to keep it in the air"
Marco.
#10
ORIGINAL: rwright142
I rarely use CA.
Most of my wood is held with Titebond (wood glue).
I use Epoxy for the firewall and landing gear mount (high stress areas) but most of the plane is held together with wood glue.
I use CA to strengthen threads I've tapped for nylon bolts and I use thin CA for CA hinges.
That's about it.
I rarely use CA.
Most of my wood is held with Titebond (wood glue).
I use Epoxy for the firewall and landing gear mount (high stress areas) but most of the plane is held together with wood glue.
I use CA to strengthen threads I've tapped for nylon bolts and I use thin CA for CA hinges.
That's about it.
I agree with RWRIGHT142.... I am using nothing but Titebond and epoxy on the firewall and landing gear and CA on the hinges. yeah it may ake longer for the glue to dry but it really soaks in and cures nicely. And it is a lot easier to sand than CA
#11
All this talk about Titebond prompts me to ask, How do you apply it? I am working on my first balsa stick build, using thin and medium CA, where I pin my pieces and then squeeze the CA on the joints after the pieces are set.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#12
ORIGINAL: gfdengine204
All this talk about Titebond prompts me to ask, How do you apply it? I am working on my first balsa stick build, using thin and medium CA, where I pin my pieces and then squeeze the CA on the joints after the pieces are set.
Thanks!
All this talk about Titebond prompts me to ask, How do you apply it? I am working on my first balsa stick build, using thin and medium CA, where I pin my pieces and then squeeze the CA on the joints after the pieces are set.
Thanks!
for instance the wing ribs. just squirt it on the brace where the groove in the rib is and then the bottom edge and put on the wing. It is great. and you don't have to worry about ventilating
#13
2 ounces of thin CA for 1 wing panel is too much. Use the thin to tack the parts together, and go back and use medium to fillet the joint. Using CA and epoxy only to build a model, you should only use about 1 to 2 ounces of thin, and maybe 2 ounces of medium for the whole model.
I agree that the tips on the CA bottles are way too big. to be able to use less try some of these. They pay for themselves with the amount of glues you save on the first bottle.
I use the tips on thin and medium CA, the pipettes I haven't found use for yet, and the Monoject syringe I use for wood glue. The T-pin keeps the wood glue from setting up.
I agree that the tips on the CA bottles are way too big. to be able to use less try some of these. They pay for themselves with the amount of glues you save on the first bottle.
I use the tips on thin and medium CA, the pipettes I haven't found use for yet, and the Monoject syringe I use for wood glue. The T-pin keeps the wood glue from setting up.
#14
ORIGINAL: jrcaster
2 ounces of thin CA for 1 wing panel is too much. Use the thin to tack the parts together, and go back and use medium to fillet the joint. Using CA and epoxy only to build a model, you should only use about 1 to 2 ounces of thin, and maybe 2 ounces of medium for the whole model.
I agree that the tips on the CA bottles are way too big. to be able to use less try some of these. They pay for themselves with the amount of glues you save on the first bottle.
I use the tips on thin and medium CA, the pipettes I haven't found use for yet, and the Monoject syringe I use for wood glue. The T-pin keeps the wood glue from setting up.
2 ounces of thin CA for 1 wing panel is too much. Use the thin to tack the parts together, and go back and use medium to fillet the joint. Using CA and epoxy only to build a model, you should only use about 1 to 2 ounces of thin, and maybe 2 ounces of medium for the whole model.
I agree that the tips on the CA bottles are way too big. to be able to use less try some of these. They pay for themselves with the amount of glues you save on the first bottle.
I use the tips on thin and medium CA, the pipettes I haven't found use for yet, and the Monoject syringe I use for wood glue. The T-pin keeps the wood glue from setting up.
JRCASTER. I can see where you would need to worry about weight with an indoor electric plane but not a nitro plane. worse case scenario you add a lb. to the plane with glue. Then again is that my lack of experience guessing this or what. I totally see how weight means the world with the electrics.
#15

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From: Jacksonville,
FL
To add a whole pound is a bit high of an esimate.... using 6 fl-oz of CA on a plane would only yeild 1 1/2 to 2 oz of weight. When the CA cooks off much of its weight evaporates. Anything that needs that much glue is large enough that the weight gain is negligible in the finished airframe.
I 100% agree with using whatever it takes to make a good joint. The major thing is making tight fitting joints and you will use less glue; no matter what type. I use thin on tight joints and only go back with medium and accellerator if it needs a structural fillet... I use thick only when I need the added working time.
I 100% agree with using whatever it takes to make a good joint. The major thing is making tight fitting joints and you will use less glue; no matter what type. I use thin on tight joints and only go back with medium and accellerator if it needs a structural fillet... I use thick only when I need the added working time.
#17
From what I understand, when CA cooks off it does not lose weight. CA is not a water based glue, and it does not work by evaporation. with 2oz CA in one wing panel alone, that is 4oz for the wings, and another 2 to 4oz for the fuselage. Not only is the weight racking up, but also the expense at 3 to 4 dollars an ounce. That would also mean even on a glow plane that you would have to go with the largest engine just to get off the ground. If weight wasn't such an issue even with glow/gasoline models, they would be designed with pine, oak and other woods that are much cheaper to obtain and sturdier than balsa and lite-ply,
Accelerator is used to speed up the curing process of CA. a side affect is that it gets harder, and boils up leaving a nasty looking mess. The only time I usually use accelerator is when joining balsa to plywood, or to plastics. Thin CA alone when joining to plywood can take a few minutes. Also if you get medium or thick CA on your skin, don't use accelerator. It will get hot enough to blister.
Accelerator is used to speed up the curing process of CA. a side affect is that it gets harder, and boils up leaving a nasty looking mess. The only time I usually use accelerator is when joining balsa to plywood, or to plastics. Thin CA alone when joining to plywood can take a few minutes. Also if you get medium or thick CA on your skin, don't use accelerator. It will get hot enough to blister.
#18
Personally I use wood glue for most joints and CA only when I want the speed. Just remember that excess CA will make the wood britttle and hard to sand so only use what you need to.



