Ultra Cote bubbles
11-26-2009 | 09:29 PM
#1
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From: Grosse Pointe Woods, MI
Ultra Cote bubbles
I am doing a complicated Ultra Cote covering pattern on my new Sumptin Extra. My problem is when the covering is being put down on top of another layer of Ultra Cote. I am sure everyone has done this. When you put a small design over a covered surface you are doing what I am trying to do. My problem is bubbles between the 2 layers. I was told to turn the iron down below 200 degrees and try to work from the middle out. That all helps, but I sure get bubbles. I pick them with a #11 blade and re-seal the area, but you can still see the impression in the covering. Are there any sure fire ways of covering over covering without bubbles between?
11-27-2009 | 02:44 AM
#2
RE: Ultra Cote bubbles
Before applying the second layer spray windex on the bottom layer. Lay your second peice down and position as desired, it will slide easily. Squeegy out the windex while holding your peice in place carefully removing all bubbles (it wont move easily after this but will peel off like a static electric sticker). Dry the surface. If satisfied with the placement use a trim seal iron and make your placement perminent.
11-27-2009 | 11:04 AM
#3
RE: Ultra Cote bubbles
Windex only works if the top layer is monokote as the amonia lighly ativates the monokote glue. If you are putting ultracote on as the second color try using a trim iron set to low heat. ultracote adhears at a very low tempurature like about 160-170. Done like this , if you go slow, you will get no bubbles with ultracote. If you are putting monokote on then do the windex method, but don't ever put any heat over it.
Windex doesn't activate ultracote glue.
With monokote and ultracote you can also use trim solvent. If you use trim solvent, very, very, VERY little is needed. Play with scrap pieces befor you attempt the good one. When I use trim solvent I will get the piece of trim covering in perfect place and then use tiney pieces of tape put on in the middle of the piece of covering to hold it in place then I will lift one side, apply the trim solvent with a small piece of toilet paper and then I will hold the covering lightly tight on a 45 degree and I will quickly wipe/apply the covering with my index finger working across the half area, then remove the tape and do the other side. Works great if done right with very few bubbles if any at all. If you use too much trim solvent the glue will stay activated forever and be goopy and squishy.
I prefer to use ultracote with a low heat iron. Works the best!! I did all of the yellow this way on my last Ultimate build. No bubbles at all http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9018718/tm.htm
Windex doesn't activate ultracote glue.
With monokote and ultracote you can also use trim solvent. If you use trim solvent, very, very, VERY little is needed. Play with scrap pieces befor you attempt the good one. When I use trim solvent I will get the piece of trim covering in perfect place and then use tiney pieces of tape put on in the middle of the piece of covering to hold it in place then I will lift one side, apply the trim solvent with a small piece of toilet paper and then I will hold the covering lightly tight on a 45 degree and I will quickly wipe/apply the covering with my index finger working across the half area, then remove the tape and do the other side. Works great if done right with very few bubbles if any at all. If you use too much trim solvent the glue will stay activated forever and be goopy and squishy.
I prefer to use ultracote with a low heat iron. Works the best!! I did all of the yellow this way on my last Ultimate build. No bubbles at all http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9018718/tm.htm
11-27-2009 | 11:24 AM
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From: Bath,
IL
RE: Ultra Cote bubbles
What is happening is there is gas building up between the two layers you can us very low heat or you can use a T-pin and poke a bunch of holes in the covering you are going to be putting the final peice on this lets the gas escape so it wont bubble!
11-27-2009 | 11:55 AM
#5
My Feedback: (-1)
RE: Ultra Cote bubbles
ORIGINAL: twn
Windex only works if the top layer is monokote as the amonia lighly ativates the monokote glue. If you are putting ultracote on as the second color try using a trim iron set to low heat. ultracote adhears at a very low tempurature like about 160-170. Done like this , if you go slow, you will get no bubbles with ultracote. If you are putting monokote on then do the windex method, but don't ever put any heat over it.
Windex doesn't activate ultracote glue.
With monokote and ultracote you can also use trim solvent. If you use trim solvent, very, very, VERY little is needed. Play with scrap pieces befor you attempt the good one. When I use trim solvent I will get the piece of trim covering in perfect place and then use tiney pieces of tape put on in the middle of the piece of covering to hold it in place then I will lift one side, apply the trim solvent with a small piece of toilet paper and then I will hold the covering lightly tight on a 45 degree and I will quickly wipe/apply the covering with my index finger working across the half area, then remove the tape and do the other side. Works great if done right with very few bubbles if any at all. If you use too much trim solvent the glue will stay activated forever and be goopy and squishy.
I prefer to use ultracote with a low heat iron. Works the best!! I did all of the yellow this way on my last Ultimate build. No bubbles at all http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9018718/tm.htm
Windex only works if the top layer is monokote as the amonia lighly ativates the monokote glue. If you are putting ultracote on as the second color try using a trim iron set to low heat. ultracote adhears at a very low tempurature like about 160-170. Done like this , if you go slow, you will get no bubbles with ultracote. If you are putting monokote on then do the windex method, but don't ever put any heat over it.
Windex doesn't activate ultracote glue.
With monokote and ultracote you can also use trim solvent. If you use trim solvent, very, very, VERY little is needed. Play with scrap pieces befor you attempt the good one. When I use trim solvent I will get the piece of trim covering in perfect place and then use tiney pieces of tape put on in the middle of the piece of covering to hold it in place then I will lift one side, apply the trim solvent with a small piece of toilet paper and then I will hold the covering lightly tight on a 45 degree and I will quickly wipe/apply the covering with my index finger working across the half area, then remove the tape and do the other side. Works great if done right with very few bubbles if any at all. If you use too much trim solvent the glue will stay activated forever and be goopy and squishy.
I prefer to use ultracote with a low heat iron. Works the best!! I did all of the yellow this way on my last Ultimate build. No bubbles at all http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9018718/tm.htm
11-27-2009 | 02:17 PM
#6
RE: Ultra Cote bubbles
I have successfully used a LO heat trim iron when applying Ultracote trim to an Ultracote base. Technique differs if base film is over sheeting or an open area.
If you are trimming over solid sheeting you must go very slowly. Be very careful on the amount of pressure you apply as you may dent the sheeting. Like others have said holding the trim at 45 degrees to the base and move the iron back-n-forth working towards the lifted section. Make sure you add heat to only 1/8" of new trim. Any more than that and you will trap gas. Also, start at the middle of a trim piece and arc out from the center until you reach the end work your way to the end of the trim. After cooling go back with a new #11 blade and slide it into any bubbles from the side - not down vertically like a pin stick - and work the iron towards the slit.
If trimming over "no" hard backing the base covering will stretch a bit (from pressure - not from the LO heat). You can push down gently when you heat the trim. It will turn color (darkens) as the trim is heated. Again, only add 1/8" of unheated trim on each sweap over the trim, arcing from the center out, pushing any gas out to the sides.
Trimming over open backing progresses much faster than trimming over sheeting and with quite a bit fewer bubbles.
Good luck and show us your results!
I'll post some pics of trim covering after my check disk finishes with my RChard drive.
If you are trimming over solid sheeting you must go very slowly. Be very careful on the amount of pressure you apply as you may dent the sheeting. Like others have said holding the trim at 45 degrees to the base and move the iron back-n-forth working towards the lifted section. Make sure you add heat to only 1/8" of new trim. Any more than that and you will trap gas. Also, start at the middle of a trim piece and arc out from the center until you reach the end work your way to the end of the trim. After cooling go back with a new #11 blade and slide it into any bubbles from the side - not down vertically like a pin stick - and work the iron towards the slit.
If trimming over "no" hard backing the base covering will stretch a bit (from pressure - not from the LO heat). You can push down gently when you heat the trim. It will turn color (darkens) as the trim is heated. Again, only add 1/8" of unheated trim on each sweap over the trim, arcing from the center out, pushing any gas out to the sides.
Trimming over open backing progresses much faster than trimming over sheeting and with quite a bit fewer bubbles.
Good luck and show us your results!
I'll post some pics of trim covering after my check disk finishes with my RChard drive.
11-27-2009 | 08:59 PM
#7
Senior Member
RE: Ultra Cote bubbles
I agree with all the above(except windex). Low heat is most important. I have a box of insulin syringes from way back. Don't know why I have them, but they come in handy for bubbles in covering. The needles are so small that I can go over any area with bubbles and peck at the bubble(s) like a miniature woodpecker and then touch the bubble(s) with the covering iron. Gas bubble(s) disappears and the the little holes can hardly be seen. Insulin syringes are cheap and can be bought at any drug store.
11-27-2009 | 10:22 PM
#8
RE: Ultra Cote bubbles
My 4Star60 was covered and trimmed in Ultracote. All has white base except for the turtle deck and the bottom of the wings & stab. It took an hour to apply the pearl blue on top of ONEof the wing tips. I'm guessing that Ihave over 10 hours in applying the trim. You will not find a bubble in any of the trim.
The last 3 pics show the real inspiration for the scheme ...
The last 3 pics show the real inspiration for the scheme ...
11-29-2009 | 08:38 AM
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From: Grosse Pointe Woods, MI
RE: Ultra Cote bubbles
Thanks everybody....I think I have the way to do it, at least over open areas. The pin ***** method worked perfectly. At first I used a regular T-pin. That made holes that were big enough to print through. A fine sewing pin solved that issue. It still can be an issue over a covered wood area, but very low heat, slow movement and patience rules here. I was told about another good method. Make the pieces with the normal 3/8" overlap and stick the whole panel's covering together on waxed paper. Now pick the whole piece up and apply it as you would a single sheet.
11-29-2009 | 11:32 AM
#11
RE: Ultra Cote bubbles
Building film panels on a piece of glass works well too as the adhesive won't stick to the glass when it cools. The wings of the SSE in my avatar were covered as a single panel made up of 3 pieces of covering assembled on a mirror.
11-29-2009 | 01:20 PM
#12
RE: Ultra Cote bubbles
ORIGINAL: maynardrupp
Thanks everybody....I think I have the way to do it, at least over open areas. The pin ***** method worked perfectly. At first I used a regular T-pin. That made holes that were big enough to print through. A fine sewing pin solved that issue. It still can be an issue over a covered wood area, but very low heat, slow movement and patience rules here. I was told about another good method. Make the pieces with the normal 3/8'' overlap and stick the whole panel's covering together on waxed paper. Now pick the whole piece up and apply it as you would a single sheet.
Thanks everybody....I think I have the way to do it, at least over open areas. The pin ***** method worked perfectly. At first I used a regular T-pin. That made holes that were big enough to print through. A fine sewing pin solved that issue. It still can be an issue over a covered wood area, but very low heat, slow movement and patience rules here. I was told about another good method. Make the pieces with the normal 3/8'' overlap and stick the whole panel's covering together on waxed paper. Now pick the whole piece up and apply it as you would a single sheet.
Wax paper will leave a film of wax on the gluing surface of the covering. A better choice is parchment paper. NOTHING sticks to it and it won't leave a residue. Well some hairs from the paper stick but the glue underneath will still adhear.
