Building the Cedar Hobbies Pheonix
08-09-2006, 12:10 PM
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Building the Cedar Hobbies Pheonix
Let's get started with installing the nacelles on the wings.
The nacelles must be installed with the fuel tank access up, and the wing is slightly semisymetrical. Fit the nacelle to the wing after first locating the preinstalled blind nuts around 6" in from the wing inside edge (Toward the fuse side) and temporarily bolt in place. The bolt holes in the nacelle are under the servo mount. Use wood screws to bolt the trailing edges to the wing.
Now, mark the exact outline of the nacelle on the wing. Unbolt the nacelle and pull or slide the nacelle off the wing. Cut out the covering inside of the marks to expose bare wood for gluing on the top and bottom of the wing with a sharp exacto knige. I tried to cut the covering around 1/16" inside the marks for good contact when the epoxy is applied and no exposed wood. DO NOT CUT DEEP OR YOUR WILL CUT THROUGH THE WING SHEETING, and weakend the sheeting. Do not destroy the covering removed. You can use later. Now using a heat iron, reheat and push down and reglue the covering on the edge of the cut out. The painters low tack tape that you apply could pull the covering off if this is not done.
Apply LOW TACK or adhesive painters tape carefully along the outline of the nacell on the top and bottom of the wing. This is to keep excess epoxy from running out and making a mess.
Test fit the nacelle back to the wing to make sure it will slide on OK and not damage the tape when the glue is wet. Pull the nacelle back off. MAKE sure you know where the screws and screw drivers are!! Looking for them with wet epoxy is not good!!
I mixed up around 2-3oz of 30 minute epoxy and added ONLY to the wing in a line around 3/8" wide near the tape top and bottom and leading edge. Make sure this glue goes into any cuts or lines made while cutting the covering off. Do not make big puddles of glue. I did not put epoxy on the nacelle to prevent a mess when sliding into place.
Carefully slide the nacelle on to wing from the front. It will take GENTLY spreading the trailing edge to get it to slide on to the wing from the front.
Bolt it in place with the two bolts from the front and two wood screws from the rear.
Using an alcohol soaked rag, gently wipe excess glue off the sides of the nacelle and pull the previously installed painters tape off..NOW and let the whole assembly dry. Any additional epoxy run off can be quickly cleaned with alcohol and rags.
BIG ADDITION!!! note picture below with hole cut into the wing under the placement of the nacelle. DON"T FORGET TO CUT THAT HOLE FO THE SERVO WIRE FOR THE ENGINE!!! Note I used a three foot long string with small nut on it to feed the wire through and it works well, but DO NOT FORGET TO CUT THAT HOLE!!
The nacelles must be installed with the fuel tank access up, and the wing is slightly semisymetrical. Fit the nacelle to the wing after first locating the preinstalled blind nuts around 6" in from the wing inside edge (Toward the fuse side) and temporarily bolt in place. The bolt holes in the nacelle are under the servo mount. Use wood screws to bolt the trailing edges to the wing.
Now, mark the exact outline of the nacelle on the wing. Unbolt the nacelle and pull or slide the nacelle off the wing. Cut out the covering inside of the marks to expose bare wood for gluing on the top and bottom of the wing with a sharp exacto knige. I tried to cut the covering around 1/16" inside the marks for good contact when the epoxy is applied and no exposed wood. DO NOT CUT DEEP OR YOUR WILL CUT THROUGH THE WING SHEETING, and weakend the sheeting. Do not destroy the covering removed. You can use later. Now using a heat iron, reheat and push down and reglue the covering on the edge of the cut out. The painters low tack tape that you apply could pull the covering off if this is not done.
Apply LOW TACK or adhesive painters tape carefully along the outline of the nacell on the top and bottom of the wing. This is to keep excess epoxy from running out and making a mess.
Test fit the nacelle back to the wing to make sure it will slide on OK and not damage the tape when the glue is wet. Pull the nacelle back off. MAKE sure you know where the screws and screw drivers are!! Looking for them with wet epoxy is not good!!
I mixed up around 2-3oz of 30 minute epoxy and added ONLY to the wing in a line around 3/8" wide near the tape top and bottom and leading edge. Make sure this glue goes into any cuts or lines made while cutting the covering off. Do not make big puddles of glue. I did not put epoxy on the nacelle to prevent a mess when sliding into place.
Carefully slide the nacelle on to wing from the front. It will take GENTLY spreading the trailing edge to get it to slide on to the wing from the front.
Bolt it in place with the two bolts from the front and two wood screws from the rear.
Using an alcohol soaked rag, gently wipe excess glue off the sides of the nacelle and pull the previously installed painters tape off..NOW and let the whole assembly dry. Any additional epoxy run off can be quickly cleaned with alcohol and rags.
BIG ADDITION!!! note picture below with hole cut into the wing under the placement of the nacelle. DON"T FORGET TO CUT THAT HOLE FO THE SERVO WIRE FOR THE ENGINE!!! Note I used a three foot long string with small nut on it to feed the wire through and it works well, but DO NOT FORGET TO CUT THAT HOLE!!
08-10-2006, 10:36 AM
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RE: Building the Cedar Hobbies Pheonix
Nose Cone Installation
The model is so long that there are shipping issues and so the removable nose cone both shortens the fuse section and makes access to the nose gear assembly very handy.
The instructions say to glue the nose cone on after installation of the nose gear and push rod, but who reads that stuff. I am showing pictures of one solution to make it bolt on via slide in wood mounts. You could also bolt from the nose into some projection in front of the gear..Up to you.
The nose gear is fairly straight forward with two blocks and a steerable arm for steering. Note, the nose gear blocks use wood screws into the plywood firewall. Might be a good idea to harden the wood with a bit of thin CA before final assembly.
I ground a flat for the allen screw in the nose strut to make sure the control arm cannot move and slip up or around. After you install your push rod, you can locktite the allen screw. I positioned the arm at around 1/2" away from the firewall and will set the push rod at the outer most control hole, which lines up with the existing exit for the push rod. I would set the push rod at the inner most or at max second hole away from the servo to keep sensitivity to a minimum.
Now,,,here is the big decision time. You need to mock up the wings and main landing gear wth nacelles and set the model level and check ground clearance for the size propellors you intend to use. I chose 13" props and for me...ok ok and my landing skills, I want ground clearance. If you set the nose wheel at maximum extension, you will need to lengthen the main gear 2".
The foam nose wheel and main gears are 2" in diameter and use supplied collers to secure to the wire gear. You will have to enlarge the hole in the wheel slightly to get it to turn freely.
Here again, I would wait until the model is finished to glue or bolt the nose cone on for balancing reasons. Now, remember above I said do not destroy the excess covering material removed from the nacelle area?? You can use it to cover the seam where the nose cone attaches!! You will need to cut out a notch for the nose gear rod to come down and you might have to grind the inside of the nose cone frame, where it mounts up to the fuse to center it on the nose of the plane.
Twinman
The model is so long that there are shipping issues and so the removable nose cone both shortens the fuse section and makes access to the nose gear assembly very handy.
The instructions say to glue the nose cone on after installation of the nose gear and push rod, but who reads that stuff. I am showing pictures of one solution to make it bolt on via slide in wood mounts. You could also bolt from the nose into some projection in front of the gear..Up to you.
The nose gear is fairly straight forward with two blocks and a steerable arm for steering. Note, the nose gear blocks use wood screws into the plywood firewall. Might be a good idea to harden the wood with a bit of thin CA before final assembly.
I ground a flat for the allen screw in the nose strut to make sure the control arm cannot move and slip up or around. After you install your push rod, you can locktite the allen screw. I positioned the arm at around 1/2" away from the firewall and will set the push rod at the outer most control hole, which lines up with the existing exit for the push rod. I would set the push rod at the inner most or at max second hole away from the servo to keep sensitivity to a minimum.
Now,,,here is the big decision time. You need to mock up the wings and main landing gear wth nacelles and set the model level and check ground clearance for the size propellors you intend to use. I chose 13" props and for me...ok ok and my landing skills, I want ground clearance. If you set the nose wheel at maximum extension, you will need to lengthen the main gear 2".
The foam nose wheel and main gears are 2" in diameter and use supplied collers to secure to the wire gear. You will have to enlarge the hole in the wheel slightly to get it to turn freely.
Here again, I would wait until the model is finished to glue or bolt the nose cone on for balancing reasons. Now, remember above I said do not destroy the excess covering material removed from the nacelle area?? You can use it to cover the seam where the nose cone attaches!! You will need to cut out a notch for the nose gear rod to come down and you might have to grind the inside of the nose cone frame, where it mounts up to the fuse to center it on the nose of the plane.
Twinman
08-10-2006, 11:09 AM
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RE: Building the Cedar Hobbies Pheonix
Take a look at the upper picture showing the numerous internal plywood bulkheads glued to that firewall and all the sheeting glued to it. It is around 3/16" thick, I worry more about the wood screws, but I am building it as the kit is designed. Blind nuts would give me a more fuzzy feeling!!!
Twinman
Twinman
08-10-2006, 11:28 AM
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RE: Building the Cedar Hobbies Pheonix
The wood screws are a good idea. They are a kind of fuse. If the force on the nosewheel is too great, there is a chance the wood screws will pull out before the supporting structure fails. If the screws pull out, they can easily be replaced with the next size up. (Unless you glue the nose piece on.
) Using blind nuts there means that the structure becomes the weakest link in the chain and if it fails, you are in for a much larger repair job.
Note: This comment is not meant to give any undeserved credit to the designer of this airplane, who is obviously not a modeler.
Jim
) Using blind nuts there means that the structure becomes the weakest link in the chain and if it fails, you are in for a much larger repair job.Note: This comment is not meant to give any undeserved credit to the designer of this airplane, who is obviously not a modeler.
Jim
08-10-2006, 11:32 AM
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RE: Building the Cedar Hobbies Pheonix
Tail Assembly
Before we get into building the tail assembly. Design discussion. Don't you hate to follow instructions!!
The horizontal stabilizer is...37" across!!! The split elevator halves are designed to use a metal U shaped wire to connect them and you can do that. Personally, I plan to uh...fly it for "Fun". (Check "Aggressivly try to tear the wings off" in the dictionary). I do not believe that any strength wire will properly actuate that large of an elevator, particularly with large engines or aggressive flying. Note, there are two offset nice servo bays on each side of the fuse at the rear..For my two cents, that means one servo for each side of the stabilizer. Rudder control to the front of the fuse.
Before you begin the tail assembly, you should decide how you are going to or not use that connecting wire. Personally, it is out, If you use it, you will have to notch the fuse where the horizontal stabilizer comes through a little.
You make up your own mind.
Twinman
Before we get into building the tail assembly. Design discussion. Don't you hate to follow instructions!!
The horizontal stabilizer is...37" across!!! The split elevator halves are designed to use a metal U shaped wire to connect them and you can do that. Personally, I plan to uh...fly it for "Fun". (Check "Aggressivly try to tear the wings off" in the dictionary). I do not believe that any strength wire will properly actuate that large of an elevator, particularly with large engines or aggressive flying. Note, there are two offset nice servo bays on each side of the fuse at the rear..For my two cents, that means one servo for each side of the stabilizer. Rudder control to the front of the fuse.
Before you begin the tail assembly, you should decide how you are going to or not use that connecting wire. Personally, it is out, If you use it, you will have to notch the fuse where the horizontal stabilizer comes through a little.
You make up your own mind.
Twinman
08-10-2006, 10:50 PM
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RE: Building the Cedar Hobbies Pheonix
MUST be the eyes!! Be careful at the field!! My story and sticking to it..Besides the other guy..jrf has already hurt my feelings!!..no, it is going to fly as a twin!!, but the center of the nacelle is now 10.5" from the fuse. Up to you guys..got four .25's to .32's laying around!!
Twinman
Twinman
08-11-2006, 08:54 PM
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RE: Building the Cedar Hobbies Pheonix
Tail Assembly.
Note, Neil called me to tell me that he has received a call from a customer who had to sand the mount area where the horizontal stabilizer goes through the rear of the fuse, as the horizontal stabilizer did not sit level with the wings. I checked this model and found that the 37" horizontal stabilizer does sit up on one side by 3/4", or one side up from level by 3/8" and the other down by 3/8" measureed at the tips of the stabilizer verses a level wing. I did check the incidence and found it within one degree of the same between the wing and horizontal stabilizer, so no problem there. Check your model for this and you may have to sand the mount area to level the stabilizer mount area to level. Not sure how or if this would affect flight.
Ok, now to build it.
The rudder assembly mates inside the fuse with the horizontal stabilizer and interlocks. Cut out the covering material to allow the rudder and horizontal stabilizer to enter and join in the fuse and test fit. Make sure the horizontal stabilizer is perpendicular with the fuse, by measuring from it's tip to the nose of the fuse, on each side. Mark the joint along side of the fuse for each surface and using an exacto knife or similar, cut open the slots for the rudder and horizontal stabilizer. Do not cut too much covering away or the wood will be exposed at the joint after assembly. I removed the covering about 1/16" inside that mark for glue surfaces. If you are going to use the connecting wire for the elevator, it will be necessary to cut a small opening for it also at the rear of the opening of the horizontal stabilizer. I decided to use thick CA to hold these surfaces as easier to do than epoxy..IMO. If you use epoxy, put light tack painters tape on the fuse to catch run off. Note, you can get additional glue into the bottom of the horizontal stabilizer via the two servo openings along side of the fuse. If epoxy glue is used, you can clean up excess glue with alcohol and a shop towel.
Let everything dry..for now.
Twinman
Note, Neil called me to tell me that he has received a call from a customer who had to sand the mount area where the horizontal stabilizer goes through the rear of the fuse, as the horizontal stabilizer did not sit level with the wings. I checked this model and found that the 37" horizontal stabilizer does sit up on one side by 3/4", or one side up from level by 3/8" and the other down by 3/8" measureed at the tips of the stabilizer verses a level wing. I did check the incidence and found it within one degree of the same between the wing and horizontal stabilizer, so no problem there. Check your model for this and you may have to sand the mount area to level the stabilizer mount area to level. Not sure how or if this would affect flight.
Ok, now to build it.
The rudder assembly mates inside the fuse with the horizontal stabilizer and interlocks. Cut out the covering material to allow the rudder and horizontal stabilizer to enter and join in the fuse and test fit. Make sure the horizontal stabilizer is perpendicular with the fuse, by measuring from it's tip to the nose of the fuse, on each side. Mark the joint along side of the fuse for each surface and using an exacto knife or similar, cut open the slots for the rudder and horizontal stabilizer. Do not cut too much covering away or the wood will be exposed at the joint after assembly. I removed the covering about 1/16" inside that mark for glue surfaces. If you are going to use the connecting wire for the elevator, it will be necessary to cut a small opening for it also at the rear of the opening of the horizontal stabilizer. I decided to use thick CA to hold these surfaces as easier to do than epoxy..IMO. If you use epoxy, put light tack painters tape on the fuse to catch run off. Note, you can get additional glue into the bottom of the horizontal stabilizer via the two servo openings along side of the fuse. If epoxy glue is used, you can clean up excess glue with alcohol and a shop towel.
Let everything dry..for now.
Twinman
08-11-2006, 09:08 PM
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RE: Building the Cedar Hobbies Pheonix
The model uses Ca hinges..and there are arguements on both sides for or against. I am building it as suggested with the included CA hinges. Besides,,,jrf is watching me for exact build procedures!! Pressure is on!!! Most of you know how to install these hinges, but I will put in my two cents. You must use thin CA. Most of the cut out for the Ca hinges were already installed except the alierons for some reason. The included hinges has a slot in the center to aid wick action of the Ca. I also have a thing to push a hobby pin into the slots three times to make sure there is a positive inlet for the CA. I also mark the hinges at half way so that I can get uniform depth of the hinges. Test fit the control surfaces BEFORE gluing to make sure there are no fit up problems. Then insert and glue all the CA hinges into, for example the horizontal stabilzer and let dry. Make sure the first gluing is dry, or the test fit of the control surface could stick!! Then slide the control surface into the hinges and UP close the the other surface..Remember the three pin holes previously done on ALL slots. CA the hinges into the control surface, but try not to glue the control surface to the main mounting surface. Light blowing of wicked CA along the hinge line or use of WAX paper to keep the excess glue out helps. The closer the control surface to the mount, the more positive the surface will be. Do for all surfaces and make sure they move freely after the CA dries.
Let dry.
Twinman
Let dry.
Twinman
08-12-2006, 10:42 AM
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RE: Building the Cedar Hobbies Pheonix
OK, here we go.
CA hinges must be glued into both sides at the same time. The wicking action of the hinge coating causes the thin CA to travel all over the hinge and into the hinge slot where it can glue the hinge to the wood. If you glue it into one side first, the CA will "use up" the wicking layer on the exposed side. The when you try to glue the exposed side into it's slot, you have no more wicking, poor glue penetration and a bad joint. When you hear of a CA hinge pulling out, it is invariably one that has been installed in one side first and then the other.
Other than that, you are doing a good job of building it as the kit was designed.[8D]
Jim
CA hinges must be glued into both sides at the same time. The wicking action of the hinge coating causes the thin CA to travel all over the hinge and into the hinge slot where it can glue the hinge to the wood. If you glue it into one side first, the CA will "use up" the wicking layer on the exposed side. The when you try to glue the exposed side into it's slot, you have no more wicking, poor glue penetration and a bad joint. When you hear of a CA hinge pulling out, it is invariably one that has been installed in one side first and then the other.
Other than that, you are doing a good job of building it as the kit was designed.[8D]
Jim
08-12-2006, 05:00 PM
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RE: Building the Cedar Hobbies Pheonix
Actually, I DO have four .25's laying around (been waiting on that perfect B-17 project).
Thanks for the info, one comment, you said "I tried to cut the covering around 1/16" inside the marks for good contact when the epoxy is applied and no exposed wood. DO NOT CUT DEEP OR YOUR WILL CUT THROUGH THE WING SHEETING, and weakend the sheeting." in the very first post. The easiest way is to use a fine point soldering iron, melts through the covering and does no damage to the wood to weaken it.
Thanks for the info, one comment, you said "I tried to cut the covering around 1/16" inside the marks for good contact when the epoxy is applied and no exposed wood. DO NOT CUT DEEP OR YOUR WILL CUT THROUGH THE WING SHEETING, and weakend the sheeting." in the very first post. The easiest way is to use a fine point soldering iron, melts through the covering and does no damage to the wood to weaken it.
08-12-2006, 09:18 PM
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RE: Building the Cedar Hobbies Pheonix
DOUGH!!!! NOW YOU TELL ME!!!! Where were you both when I needed you!!!..Hmm...That sounds strange...uh...thanks for the valuable tip ..BUDDY!!...BUBBA...ROCK..never mind..back to the building board..Got to return those nacelles. Looks like the plane will come in around 11 pounds with...are you ready..ST 45's..so far.
Twinman
PS If I had used the ST 90's.. sitting around,, someone would have cried foul..but still sitting. Tee Hee
Twinman
PS If I had used the ST 90's.. sitting around,, someone would have cried foul..but still sitting. Tee Hee
08-13-2006, 10:28 AM
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RE: Building the Cedar Hobbies Pheonix
Just got my Phoenix.
Great job so far Twinman!
This will certainly be far easier to get into the air than my Super Duelist
Which is sitting in a nice box waiting for that "block of time" to get built.
The only pair of engines I have were slated for the Super Duelist, but will work fine here (Saito 100's).
If I could just get the other three planes being worked on simultaneously finished, I can get my workbench open again.
Looking forward to flying this one.
Great job so far Twinman!
This will certainly be far easier to get into the air than my Super Duelist
Which is sitting in a nice box waiting for that "block of time" to get built.The only pair of engines I have were slated for the Super Duelist, but will work fine here (Saito 100's).
If I could just get the other three planes being worked on simultaneously finished, I can get my workbench open again.
Looking forward to flying this one.
08-13-2006, 03:35 PM
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RE: Building the Cedar Hobbies Pheonix
Airbike
Believe it or not, the 100's will be over kill. You will need three blade props for ground clearance.Have not posted the details of first flights, but..Shhh. It went up today...on...two...OLD..ST...45's!!!12x4 props. Inside and outside loops and knife edge..second flight. Inverted..first flight..unlimited vertical..no way!!
More on build and suggestions coming.
Twinman
Believe it or not, the 100's will be over kill. You will need three blade props for ground clearance.Have not posted the details of first flights, but..Shhh. It went up today...on...two...OLD..ST...45's!!!12x4 props. Inside and outside loops and knife edge..second flight. Inverted..first flight..unlimited vertical..no way!!
More on build and suggestions coming.
Twinman
08-13-2006, 04:13 PM
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RE: Building the Cedar Hobbies Pheonix
No mention of the customary [8D] "Inverted Flat Spin Test" [8D] or even the usual upright type either.
Oh Well. I guess that I am getting older as this is all the harassment that is coming this time
[8D] "Inverted Flat Spin Test" [8D] or even the usual upright type either.Oh Well. I guess that I am getting older as this is all the harassment that is coming this time
08-13-2006, 04:23 PM
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RE: Building the Cedar Hobbies Pheonix
Engine and nacelle build up.
Half the blind nuts for the supplied engine mounts are already installed with the other two supplied in the hardware kit. The second set of mounting holes are slotted to allow the engine mount to move wider for larger engines. Engines..Yes, I could have built it with the usual fire breathing monsters..and I have two lonely ST 90's that were looking for a good home..Nope, let's see if we can build and fly cheap and light. Instead of exploring the UPPER flight limits, how about the lower end. Ok, Two very worn ST 45's, dual outlet mufflers..Hey, it is a twin..so dual's on the exhaust!!, Master Airscrew 12x4 props, 15% synthetic fuel.
I mounted the engines as FAR forward as possible due to light weight.
The supplied fuel tank is around 7oz..a bit light for larger engines. Off to the local hobby store with a handfull of measurements. The Graupner 14oz number 236 and it fit just fine..Note, Look at the inside of the neck on these tanks..One of mine had a hole in the neck and really made a mess inside the nacelle and made me really say bad things.!!!!!
I would coat the firewall with thinned epoxy for fuel proofing..Thinned with alcohol.
Attach the engine mounts with locktite and mount the engines are normal.
The throttle servo is a mini and mounted sideways in a mounting slot a bit wider than I would be happy with, so I shimmed it up tighter to prevent flexing. Probably not a problem on and throttle servo, but it makes me sleep better at night. I used the included push rod and keeper for the throttle controls, but you will need to make a z bend to clear the tanks. Sure hope you remembered to thread the opening for the servo wiring through the nacelle and out the wing!! Remember that small hole I told you to cut under the nacelle..for the wiring?? If not, a small nut on a string will work just fine to thread it now....Ok Ok..fumble fingers pulled out one string..more bad words..this is supposed to be fun!!!!
The fuel tank bays are covered with hatches and bolted to the area around the firewall. I predrilled a pilot hole, threaded in the mounting screws, removed the screws and hardened the thread area with thin CA.
Twinman
Half the blind nuts for the supplied engine mounts are already installed with the other two supplied in the hardware kit. The second set of mounting holes are slotted to allow the engine mount to move wider for larger engines. Engines..Yes, I could have built it with the usual fire breathing monsters..and I have two lonely ST 90's that were looking for a good home..Nope, let's see if we can build and fly cheap and light. Instead of exploring the UPPER flight limits, how about the lower end. Ok, Two very worn ST 45's, dual outlet mufflers..Hey, it is a twin..so dual's on the exhaust!!, Master Airscrew 12x4 props, 15% synthetic fuel.
I mounted the engines as FAR forward as possible due to light weight.
The supplied fuel tank is around 7oz..a bit light for larger engines. Off to the local hobby store with a handfull of measurements. The Graupner 14oz number 236 and it fit just fine..Note, Look at the inside of the neck on these tanks..One of mine had a hole in the neck and really made a mess inside the nacelle and made me really say bad things.!!!!!
I would coat the firewall with thinned epoxy for fuel proofing..Thinned with alcohol.
Attach the engine mounts with locktite and mount the engines are normal.
The throttle servo is a mini and mounted sideways in a mounting slot a bit wider than I would be happy with, so I shimmed it up tighter to prevent flexing. Probably not a problem on and throttle servo, but it makes me sleep better at night. I used the included push rod and keeper for the throttle controls, but you will need to make a z bend to clear the tanks. Sure hope you remembered to thread the opening for the servo wiring through the nacelle and out the wing!! Remember that small hole I told you to cut under the nacelle..for the wiring?? If not, a small nut on a string will work just fine to thread it now....Ok Ok..fumble fingers pulled out one string..more bad words..this is supposed to be fun!!!!
The fuel tank bays are covered with hatches and bolted to the area around the firewall. I predrilled a pilot hole, threaded in the mounting screws, removed the screws and hardened the thread area with thin CA.
Twinman
08-13-2006, 05:13 PM
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RE: Building the Cedar Hobbies Pheonix
Main Landing Gear
The landing gear installation is pretty straight forward, with bent wire going into a groove on the underside of the wing and two supplied straps holding it in place. As I previously stated, (At the risk of ridicule for not following the instructions) I am building the landing gear 2" longer for prop Clearance. The nose is simple, just extend the nose gear, but you must remake the main wire. The standard size gear wire is 5/32",,so I remade it in that size..note increased bending moment is not good, but wanted to report what would happen if built that way!!
The plane has flown and landed three times.
The wire lengthened like this should go to 7/32" and the mount inside the wing needs to be strenghened. The additional stress, I guess, quickly elongated the mounting hole..NO I DID NOT MAKE A BOO BOO landing. The gear will begin to bend and the hole get loose.
My solution is to cut two small holes...Appoximately 1.5 square..keep the cut out piece to reinsert, on each side of the anti twist hole end of the landing gear mount to access the area above the hole.
I then cut two hardwood retangular pieces of weed 2.5" long. I used hardwood 1/2x5/8". I inserted and CA'd with the long side up.or down however you look at it, to the inside horizontal mount and ply inside rib. Followed up by 30 minute epoxy..just for warm, fuzzies!!
CA's the cut out pieces back and recovered with either scraps from the nacelle cut out earlier of white econocoat. Redrill the mounting hole larger and useing a dremmel tool inlarge the channel for the landing gear wire. Bolt back and you are set.
Twinman
The landing gear installation is pretty straight forward, with bent wire going into a groove on the underside of the wing and two supplied straps holding it in place. As I previously stated, (At the risk of ridicule for not following the instructions) I am building the landing gear 2" longer for prop Clearance. The nose is simple, just extend the nose gear, but you must remake the main wire. The standard size gear wire is 5/32",,so I remade it in that size..note increased bending moment is not good, but wanted to report what would happen if built that way!!
The plane has flown and landed three times.
The wire lengthened like this should go to 7/32" and the mount inside the wing needs to be strenghened. The additional stress, I guess, quickly elongated the mounting hole..NO I DID NOT MAKE A BOO BOO landing. The gear will begin to bend and the hole get loose.
My solution is to cut two small holes...Appoximately 1.5 square..keep the cut out piece to reinsert, on each side of the anti twist hole end of the landing gear mount to access the area above the hole.
I then cut two hardwood retangular pieces of weed 2.5" long. I used hardwood 1/2x5/8". I inserted and CA'd with the long side up.or down however you look at it, to the inside horizontal mount and ply inside rib. Followed up by 30 minute epoxy..just for warm, fuzzies!!
CA's the cut out pieces back and recovered with either scraps from the nacelle cut out earlier of white econocoat. Redrill the mounting hole larger and useing a dremmel tool inlarge the channel for the landing gear wire. Bolt back and you are set.
Twinman
08-13-2006, 05:18 PM
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RE: Building the Cedar Hobbies Pheonix
Terror,,
YOU WEREN'T there!! Sleeping in!!??
Last time I let Terror try out a new plane..Inverted flat spin...then I hear OH NO!!
Cleared the ground by 5'. Did my heart good to see someone else sweat!!
Twinman
YOU WEREN'T there!! Sleeping in!!??
Last time I let Terror try out a new plane..Inverted flat spin...then I hear OH NO!!
Cleared the ground by 5'. Did my heart good to see someone else sweat!!
Twinman
08-13-2006, 05:50 PM
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RE: Building the Cedar Hobbies Pheonix
Radio Installation.
Ok ok, so I did not follow the installation instructions..excactly..Like YOU always do and never customize!!
I decided to go to twin servos for the elevator and pull pull for the rudder. High torque for rudder and only 60oz for the elevator halves. I think standard would work unless you were going to go large engine and high speed. Ailerons are high torque, high speed and metal gear. Whole system is 6V..personal favorite. Reciever in the center and battery inserted in the nose area behind the firewall for the nose gear. No additional weight is needed for balance..NONE!
Mixing is set up for separate engine channels and one rotarary knob for one engine. This for fine adjustment, of matching engines.
Note, the engines have a good amount of down thrust..which worried me, but I left it in as is,,and it flew just fine..Not sure why on that one, but I did not design it.
The wiring can be run more neatly under the servo tray, but hey..I want to go fly.
I set the rudder for maximum possible throws..around 3" each way and almost 2" on the elevator and just over 1" on the ailerons. I did put in almost 50% exponential and ailerons and elevator..none on rudder!!!..not much on dual rates.
Simple push rod to the nose wheel set for minimum throws.
Twinman
Ok ok, so I did not follow the installation instructions..excactly..Like YOU always do and never customize!!
I decided to go to twin servos for the elevator and pull pull for the rudder. High torque for rudder and only 60oz for the elevator halves. I think standard would work unless you were going to go large engine and high speed. Ailerons are high torque, high speed and metal gear. Whole system is 6V..personal favorite. Reciever in the center and battery inserted in the nose area behind the firewall for the nose gear. No additional weight is needed for balance..NONE!
Mixing is set up for separate engine channels and one rotarary knob for one engine. This for fine adjustment, of matching engines.
Note, the engines have a good amount of down thrust..which worried me, but I left it in as is,,and it flew just fine..Not sure why on that one, but I did not design it.
The wiring can be run more neatly under the servo tray, but hey..I want to go fly.
I set the rudder for maximum possible throws..around 3" each way and almost 2" on the elevator and just over 1" on the ailerons. I did put in almost 50% exponential and ailerons and elevator..none on rudder!!!..not much on dual rates.
Simple push rod to the nose wheel set for minimum throws.
Twinman
08-13-2006, 05:57 PM
#23
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RE: Building the Cedar Hobbies Pheonix
Looks like the plane will come in around 11 pounds with...are you ready..ST 45's..so far.
Twinman
PS If I had used the ST 90's.. sitting around,, someone would have cried foul..but still sitting.
Twinman
PS If I had used the ST 90's.. sitting around,, someone would have cried foul..but still sitting.
Bill
08-13-2006, 06:02 PM
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RE: Building the Cedar Hobbies Pheonix
You are right on the 60's and the take off would be faster..but I wanted to see if it could be built and flown economy style with less epensive engines. It flies and on one engine will climb..carefully and maintain altitude. More on that later.
You are killing me!! One "Little" change and they kill you!! Whine whine!
Twinman.
Tee Hee
You are killing me!! One "Little" change and they kill you!! Whine whine!
Twinman.
Tee Hee
08-14-2006, 08:03 AM
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RE: Building the Cedar Hobbies Pheonix
Final Assembly,
The wings are held to the fuse by two aluminum spars. Good idea to "Lubricate" them with Baby powder. Before sliding fully in, connect the servos for engine and aileron and slide into the fuse. Each wing is held to the fuse via a allen screw inside the fuse and under the canopy. Good idea to find allen driver with rounded end that allows the driver to tighten the screw in an angle. You do not want to tighten this thing with a standard allen wrench!! You can see the allen screw above the rudder and nose wheel servo. This is the location I chose for the pull pull rudder set up.
You can see, the method of transport in a Suburban is one wing on and one off. Note the large arrow made into the side of the fuse, this is the balance point. After flight, I am going to move it forward...maybe 1/2".
To remove the wing or wings, you must unbolt the canopy and floor of the cockpit. Wood screws are provided and it is a good idea to harden the screw holes with CA, but I am going to have to find a better way to hold this as I am concerned the screw holes will wear out.
Now off to the field.
Twinman
The wings are held to the fuse by two aluminum spars. Good idea to "Lubricate" them with Baby powder. Before sliding fully in, connect the servos for engine and aileron and slide into the fuse. Each wing is held to the fuse via a allen screw inside the fuse and under the canopy. Good idea to find allen driver with rounded end that allows the driver to tighten the screw in an angle. You do not want to tighten this thing with a standard allen wrench!! You can see the allen screw above the rudder and nose wheel servo. This is the location I chose for the pull pull rudder set up.
You can see, the method of transport in a Suburban is one wing on and one off. Note the large arrow made into the side of the fuse, this is the balance point. After flight, I am going to move it forward...maybe 1/2".
To remove the wing or wings, you must unbolt the canopy and floor of the cockpit. Wood screws are provided and it is a good idea to harden the screw holes with CA, but I am going to have to find a better way to hold this as I am concerned the screw holes will wear out.
Now off to the field.
Twinman